Taurus Forum Latest Topics

Cutting out this shock/strut assembly?

Sun, 03 May 2026 20:03:55 +0000

I've got this 02 Taurus that I had to replace the front shocks and struts on a few years back, and unfortunately, they hold the front of the car up WAY too high. It looks terrible, but I was in a hurry to get it done and didn't have enough time to back out and get the correct size. The drill-down menu I used to find the part listed it as a correct fit, but it clearly isn't. I'm gonna have some time to work on it more here shortly, and I'd like to get new parts installed and get the ride height corrected.

Thing is, when I was originally installing these oversized shock/strut assemblies I had the pry the living daylights out of the bottom control arm to just barely be able to eetch the thing in. It was so hard to get in there that there was a good chance the lower control arm was gonna bend before it got in. While getting these parts out, I really don't want to flex that bottom control arm that much again if I don't have to, and I'm wondering if there's a way I can somehow cut that assembly out.

I'm not crazy enough to cut a spring in two, but is there a way I can sawsall through just the shock part and pry the rest out?

Wide open to any advice. Thanks

2016 Taurus sel

Sun, 22 Feb 2026 16:00:52 +0000

New member here trying to find out a little info on my 3.5 v-6 motor. It appears that there is a wet spot on the 2 sensors on the left side of the motor. Does anybody know what these sensors are and why the wet spot. I'm assuming that it is oil. Thanks for any replies.

2001 taurus sel

Fri, 14 Mar 2025 00:30:46 +0000

I have an 2001 Ford Taurus with a 24 valve engine, I have code P0301 and P0171, having trouble to get them to go away, I've replaced the #1 injector, it didn't fix the code. Looking to see if anyone has had the same problem and what they done to fix the issue.

Need blower motor brand/model suggestion

Wed, 05 Feb 2025 00:41:04 +0000

I've got a 02 Ford Taurus with a 'blown' heat a/c blower motor that needs replacing, and I was wondering if there are any model/part suggestions.

Should I angle for an OEM part, or is there any manufacturer brand I should look out for, or avoid?

Thanks.

Batt showing 12.48V

Thu, 09 Jan 2025 04:58:24 +0000

I have an 02 Taurus and my dash battery light has come on twice in the past week. Once after a few miles of driving, seemingly random, and once when I was warming the engine up. It's been 20-30F around here lately. This second time, I started the engine in the morning at about 20 deg F. Let the idle come down to normal and after about a minute I gave a little gas to get the engine up to 1500 rpm, which is when the batt light came on. It switched back off after about 5 seconds, after I got off the gas.

After sitting for 6 hours, my old multimeter shows 12.48 V on the battery. It's one of those 2 year warranty EverStart batts from Walmart, manufactured in 3/23, so still in warranty.

Does a 12.49 resting voltage justify a warranty claim, assuming it's not the alternator that's going bad?

Thanks

Blower motor down - Merry Christmas everybody!

Thu, 26 Dec 2024 02:31:50 +0000

'02 Taurus here at 111k miles, and I have what I'm interpreting to be either a failing blower motor or a loose electrical connection at the motor. For the past week or so when I turn the climate control mode selection dial to any selection, no air comes from the vents. When the mode knob is turned, everything else seems to be happening...flap doors are heard moving inside the dash, and the compressor clutch engages if the A/C is selected, but no air movement. After 3-4 days of this the blower suddenly works again and stays working for as long as the engine remains on, turning climate control on and off when needed. But the next time the car is driven the blower doesn't work. The blower motor itself seems fine in that it doesn't sound like it has a problem starting up with a slow whir or anything. It sounds completely normal when running. This is why I think it might just be a loose electrical connection at the motor, but I really have no idea, or not much experience dealing with this particular issue.

Any advice on what I should check or test?

I'm all ears, thanks!

And a very Merry Christmas to everyone!

98 Ford Taurus screeching noise

Wed, 30 Oct 2024 15:19:15 +0000

I recently started driving my 98 Ford Taurus Wagon after it sat for around a year in need of some repairs. Now it has a pretty loud high pitched screeching noise that is present as soon as I start it and can be heard constantly. It does get louder when I accelerate and is much quieter when I'm idling or let up off the gas. Turning has no effect on the intensity of it nor does it subside once the vehicle is warmed up or has been driven for a little ways. It doesn't sound the noise of a typical bad serpentine belt but Im sure on every car that doesn't sound exactly the same either. What is causing the noise?

Advice for replacing AC compressor on an 02 Taurus?

Sat, 08 Jun 2024 01:40:06 +0000

Hey everybody. I'm replacing the compressor and orifice tube on me Mum's '02 Taurus at 110k miles, so they're all original parts. I've never done this job before so I need advice going in. I believe this car has an orifice tube vs. filter as when I'm on rockauto and drilled down to 2002 Ford Taurus OHV, in the Heat and Air Conditioning sub-menu it only gives an option for orifice tube and not filter, so I guess an orifice tube is what I got.

What little doo dads do I need besides the compressor and orifice tube going into this?...o-ring seals or some kind of general AC component seals replacement kit? Or things other than the seals I'm imagining running into?

Also, any just general advice going about this? Much obliged

AC blowing warm air and intermittent compressor engaging

Wed, 15 May 2024 02:14:48 +0000

I'm servicing my Mother's car right now and the AC blows warm air when on Max and high fan speed, and the compressor seems to be cycling weird. With the engine turned on and Max AC is running at high fan speed the compressor clutch engages spinning for about 10 seconds, and then it disengages and stops turning for about 10 seconds. It keeps doing this on and off deal until the AC is turned off.

Is what I'm seeing consistent with low freon/R-134a?

Her car did this last spring and I added some refrigerant and the AC began to blow cold again, although I'm not sure if the compressor was behaving this way last time.

02' Taurus lurching at low speed

Sun, 26 May 2024 18:58:22 +0000

Mom's '02 Taurus is lurching going from zero to rolling, and I believe it has something to do with the air intake something or other. It had this same problem a few years back and I got advice to take apart the air intake where the green lines are (I think) and clean some area in there (with carb cleaner?) and that would fix the problem, which it did. I was also told that the cleaner would take off the protective coating so this would eventually happen again, and I think that's what's happening now.

Can anyone remind me exactly where I need to clean again please and what cleaner to use?

Thanks.

Error codes on my 2002 Tauruss after Seafoaming

Wed, 15 May 2024 01:58:53 +0000

I just did the Seafoam treatment to my engine where you disconnect one of the air intake lines and suck in half a can, sit for 20 min then restart and blow it out. I didn't notice the engine light being on before I did the service but it's possible it could've been. When I read the codes I got two...

P0132 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

P0152 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 1)

Are these possibly related to the Seafoam treatment I just did?

AX4 Transmission: How bad is it really?

Tue, 16 Apr 2024 14:53:39 +0000

Im currently in the market for a new (used) car and have my eye on a '00 Lincoln Continental. It only has 55k miles on it and looks like it has been very well taken care of. The thing that worries me about it though is all of the internet chatter about how unreliable the AX4 transmission is, but Im wondering if this is just a case of poor upkeep and only the people who have problems are the ones who speak up. What is everyone's experiences with these transmissions (good or bad)? Should I avoid the Continental altogether and buy another Crown Vic?

2018 Taurus SEL

Wed, 10 Jan 2024 20:44:16 +0000

After looking at many cars, we ended up trading the 2013 Taurus on a 2018 Taurus. My wife likes the looks ride etc. this one is white with tan leather. Options were a newer used car Malibu/Camry/Accord/Fusion etc. but liked the roominess of the taurus.

1999 Ford Taurus Coolant Hose-Pipe Part Number?

Fri, 28 Jul 2023 22:27:05 +0000

Please take a look at the attached. Can you let me know the part number for the hose-pipe assembly? Even the dealer couldn't find it. If it has been superseded by a new design, then please let me know both the original and current part numbers.

Thanks,

Robert

1999 Ford Taurus Coolant Hose-Pipe.pdf

Diagnosing Taurus no A/C

Sat, 22 Apr 2023 21:12:14 +0000

Before diagnosing Mom's '02 Taurus warm air A/C issue I watched a video which gave advice to check the fuse, relay, refrigerant and clutch, so here's how it went...

The issue...room temp air comes from the vents when set to Max A/C and dialed to full cold, and warm air comes out when dialed to full hot. There is no sense of cold air at all.

fuse - confirmed continuous by multimeter
- with no key in the ignition one of the a/c fuse's terminals in the engine bay fuse box read 12+V and the other 0 V

- refrigerant - a quick press of the schrader valve reveals refrigerant pressure in the system

- compressor and clutch - the middle of the compressor clutch wheel turns when just a little force is applied but does not spin freely
- When the engine is on and A/C turned to Max A/C, the compressor clutch has a pattern of engaging for just over 1 second and then releases for about 5, and repeats this on 1s off 5s pattern without interruption for 5 min while I observed.

- relay - the video suggested testing the relay junction but the owner's manual doesn't show any of the engine bay relays labeled as being associated with the A/C, so that was a dead end. The clutch seems to be working ok so I'm guessing the relay is a non-issue.

As I'm testing I notice the engine light is on where I hadn't noticed it before. Called Mom and she says it wasn't on before, so I guess it just tripped. DTC code reads P1633 which translates to 'keep alive power voltage too low.' Battery failed last month so it was replaced with a brand new one from Wally's.

The only observation I can offer other than the above is that when the A/C is turned to Max and the compressor is doing it's 1s on 5s off pattern, during the 5s it's disengaged you can hear a faint scraping sound presumably coming from the compressor clutch that sounds like two very flat surfaces, one being spun and the other not, and they're barely touching. It doesn't make the sound during every 5s disengage interval, but it's definitely there. It seemed to show up more the longer the A/C system ran. The sound stops when the A/C control panel switch is turned to off.

Could this be a bad pressure switch / sensor?

I'm all ears

1999 Taurus fuse box location?

Mon, 31 Oct 2022 13:16:49 +0000

Hi everyone.

I recently bought a right hand drive 1999 Taurus and the fuse box is NOT near the brake pedal like the manual says.
Can anyone help with this issue?

Air getting into the brake lines, but from where?

Fri, 18 Feb 2022 06:22:06 +0000

After replacing both front flexible brake lines and tightening everything back up I go to start flushing all 4 lines as the fluid is due to be flushed and there are tiny bubbles galore vacuum bleeding at all four brakes. Because I changed out the front lines I bleed those first just to get fluid in there. Although I keep the fluid reservoir filled during this whole process I get lots of continuous bubbles starting with bleeding the front lines, and then with both the rear. Working the hand vacuum pump through all this got Really tiring as 95% of what was coming through was bubbles. But I was determined to get all the old brake fluid out so I end up running just short of a 32oz can through all the lines until the fluid is clean, but I still have the bubble issue.

Only thing I can think of is that I got turned around somehow and when I went to loosen the first old front brake line from the solid line I ended up tightening the compression fitting (?) about 2 full turns instead of loosening. Not having replaced a brake line in a while I'd forgotten brake lines generally loosen right up once they're cracked. But dumb me forced that D#!& nut around twice and I'm guessing ruined the threads at that connection, and now that's what's giving me all the bubbles. The hex part or 'nut' I over-tightened is on the hard line that comes in from the left in the pic below.

Only 3 places I'm sure the air ISN"T coming from is the reservoir (as it was always filled), the soft line connection point top bleed screws, or where the vac line attaches to the bleeder screws as I watched the air come directly out of all the screw holes.

Note, the picture shows some brake fluid on the threads of the nut I over-tightened. As a test I wiped the fluid off then pumped and mashed on the brake pedal hard (spongy) but no fluid came out again at that connection, it stayed dry. I guess it was on there from when I put it back together.

Any advice on what to do next or how to figure out if the bubbles are coming from the connection I may have ruined?

'02 Taurus with 100k miles btw. Thanks.

02 Taurus front brake line replacement

Tue, 25 Jan 2022 06:44:28 +0000

I'm preventatively changing out both my Mom's 02 Taurus' front brake lines and haven't done this in a while so thought I'd write in for some general advice. Changing out the flexible hoses that go from the brake caliper to the solid line. I should be fine with the brake bleeding afterwards, I'm more thinking about dealing with the 2 line connections. Do either of the connections get either say anti-seize or maybe even loc tite? I'm thinking I was told a while ago to use high-temp copper anti-seize on something I was dealing with at the front brake caliper but can't remember if it was the brake line connection or not. That might've been one of the caliper or caliper plate bolts actually.

Also, I turned every page in the FSM that had anything to do with brakes and couldn't find a procedure for changing out those brake lines. Any idea what size wrench for the connection with the solid line? Only thing I could find was an old youtube video featuring a '98 and the guy said he used a 13mm.

I'm all ears for any advice before I dive into this. Thanks.

2014 Ford Taurus SHO - Climate Control System shuts off

Sun, 15 Jan 2017 23:00:19 +0000

I have a 2014 SHO and I am having an issue with the automatic climate control system. It just shuts off on its own, when it shuts off, it will always (so far) turn back on using the touch panel. I don't want to take it in to the dealer until it is really 'broken'.

Has anyone heard of similar issues or experienced this issue?

This issue only happens to me occasionally, from once or twice to several times a day. FYI - My car has about 56,000 miles.

I am trying to figure out if this is a low occurrence (rare) or more pervasive (frequent) on the 2013 and newer Taurus.

I took it to the dealer a few weeks ago and my dealer updated my Sync to the latest version, but it didn't have any affect on my problem. I don't have issues with calls or song or artist, just the HVAC. It seems to turn the climate control system off after running for about 5 or 10 minutes and then it is usually good for the rest of my 50 minute drive. Occasionally it will turn off repeatedly several times in a row and then run fine for an hour. This doesn't happen very often, but is tiresome when it does.

Any information is appreciated.

Strut spring broken, wth.

Thu, 02 Dec 2021 13:02:13 +0000

'02 Taurus 100k miles here, and as you can see from the first picture the top part of my right strut spring has broken off. WTH is this common? Never seen this before.

Second picture shows the top components of the strut which should receive the top of the spring have broken off as well.

Third picture looks up and shows where the top of the strut assembly should be and that the new top of the spring now rests on bare sheet metal. From viewing inside the hood there hasn't been any deformity yet.

Problem is...with all that spring pressure in there I don't know how to get this thing out. Now that the top of the strut assembly is broken there's nothing to contain the upward force of the spring and it's gonna keep tension with the top of the wheel well the whole time it's being worked out.

Any suggestions on how to go about this? Only thing I can think of is to tie the spring down all over with heavy tow straps and go at it with a cut wheel until it's cut through and the tension is relieved.

04 taurus

Sun, 22 Aug 2021 01:32:28 +0000

it wants to run as if it is on cruise but its not. something will happen and it goes back to normal help

Glove box broke on 2001 Ford Taurus!

Wed, 10 Jun 2020 12:44:34 +0000

Does anyone know to replace a glove box assembly on a 2001 Ford Taurus SE? The latch is broke and won't close! We are shopping around to purchase the assembly (mostly ebay...$20-$30) but couldn't find anywhere how to perform the mechanics? It appears all the colors are grey..which is what we have! ? Just asking!

2005 Ford Taurus Speed Governor/Limiter

Fri, 22 May 2020 00:47:17 +0000

Hello! I'm new to the Ford world. I have a 2005 Ford Taurus SE 3.0L OHV that I'm giving my daughter. Does anyone know how to set the speed governor/limiter to 80mph without spending hundreds of dollars on a tuner/programmer? If not, anyone know of a mechanic or a "mechanic" that can set this speed governor/limiter to 80mph in the Colorado Springs area? Thanks!

Coolant sensor install

Fri, 13 Mar 2020 22:34:32 +0000

I want to rig up a loss of coolant sensor for my 2015 3.5NA Taurus Limited in case I have water pump failure or leak as the water pump is internal and grenades the motor from hydraulic forces before the temperature gauge can go up.

1 Is the reservoir/pressure tank even the correct place for said sensor. When I drained the radiator, the tank never drained. After refilling, the coolant seemed to siphon out of the tank at a certain height.

I wonder if the damage would be done with water pump failure before the tank lost enough antifreeze to trip a sensor.

2 Is there a better place the sensor on one of the lines near the thermostat? Or maybe a Large Tee in the upper radiator hose?

3 I have found some Amazon stainless steel GEM style sensors for cheap enough (long shaft with floating SS donut around shaft). Seems I could drill a hole in top of the reservoir and still retain use of my Pressure Cap.

4 I have seen where others use a plastic piece with a floating lever/bar. That means drilling a hole in the side of the tank below the water level. Not as appealing.

5 I thought about installing a Gems sensor in the (easily replaceable) cap, but then I would lose the 18psi pressure relief and have to add something in a hose (possible).

6 Should I tie in series with the oil pressure sensor so low water would show up as low oil pressure !!! to get the point across to whoever is driving?

I see only one wire to the oil pressure sensor, so I am guessing it makes connection (signal current only) when there is pressure and is open when low pressure (fail safe). So if I put the coolant sensor in line in series, it would cut the signal. I have no idea how amps, volts, and resistance come into play here as I have no specs on the oil pressure switch circuit.

7 Can I just use the right side headlight for a power source to the switch then an audible amazon buzzer since its only on when the engine is running (Auto lights is always on). False signal or maintenance alarm could be silenced by cutting the lights off. The sensors want no more than 0.5A so It might mean a relay if I can’t find a buzzer with that low of a draw. An engine on key on power source would obviously be preferred.

I stupidly released some refrigerant

Fri, 28 Feb 2020 17:18:56 +0000

I . GOOFED . BADLY .

2015 Taurus Limited, 3.5L. Doing the 100,000mi radiator flush (no chemicals and in the dark of night) and all online advice said the drain was on the driver’s side. All I can find is a hex plug (never seen one like that). So I turn it until I hear a hiss and small drip. Odd… I make sure I had the cap off the fill tank, then come back and give it a quick spin. A gush of vapor and fluid hits my arm and I REACT as if badly burned. Fumble…. and …throw…the wrench… then realized its actually COLD COLD COLD!!! 1 second later I realize my mistake and eventually fumble the wrench back in and tighten up the drain plug ….. for the condenser….SMH. I head gas balancing out in the system after I tightened the plug. Finished the flush but now I got a bigger problem.

I lost quite a bit of gas and the catch pan had an ounce or two of green fluid (I’m guessing the oil). I know I’m banned from AC for a while so Ill either run full blast heat (HI) or turn the climate control off until I can get this fixed. I don’t know how much refrigerant I lost and how much was actually compressor oil. I have done my own AC work on cheap vehicles with success (AC PRO + Oil), but this is my “nicest” car ever so I don’t want to damage or goof up anything else. Obviously no air got in the system, but I’m definitely low on something. I have not turned the AC on to see if it’s cold or not.

1 Is it safe to drive as long as I don’t use the AC?

2 Is it safe to use the heat on HI?

3 Would much lubricant be in the condenser or was that green fluid just liquid state R134a that had not evaporated yet? 40degress F ambient temperature. Car was pointing steeply downhill and had been off from AC use for about 45 minutes.

4 I understand the AC cycle, am an engineer, but also understand I don’t have the tools to measure what I actually have left vs what I need (1.43lb R134a + 5.2oz oil per manual ). If the green fluid was just liquid state R-134a I should be able to just use a can of AC PRO. It was 40-45F outside.

5 Should I just eat the cost and take it to the dealership or a local shop? I’m guessing they would drain it and start over so they know what is in it.