This radiator support wraps all the way around the three radiators.

I don't know the correct way to remove the radiator support , the fans and how to separate the front two "coolers" (ac condenser and transmission cooler i am guessing?)

I have done a ton of Radiators on Dodge Caravans and Highlander hybrids and they were pretty simple where all you need to do was take the top radiator support off and the fans and then you can get the radiator out off of the support beam it rests on pretty easily......but this car looks like a different kind of animal.  

I can get the radiator support cover off this fusion.... But then there is NOTHING supporting these three radiators as the radiator support bracket seems to hang from the top of the engine bay and is held in place by the front bumper.

1.  Do i need to disconnect the transmission cooler lines to get this thing off?

2. Do i need to support the radiators with some blocks of wood or something if im gonna remove the radiator support cover?

3.  Are you supposed to remove the radiator without removing the radiator support cover?

I can't find anyone discussing this or any YouTube videos to guide me through it

My mom and dad have a 2014 Fusion Hybrid. 

This things eats 12v batteries like candy. 

It must be plugged into a trickle charger when parked otherwise it kills the 12v in 24-48 hours. 

It has done this for 5-6 years now. Local Ford dealer has not been able to fix this. 

I found some ideas online, and fuse maps, and right now we have the keypad and I think the telematics modem unplugged. No change. Glove box light turns off normally etc

What are some other common causes of this problem? I'd like to fix this thing forever

I took my fusion in for preventative maintenance to get it ready to turn over to my 16 year old son to drive.  The car had no issuesreally except for the PTU was overheating and disengaging during highway speeds so I paid a local shop to replace it with a brand new Ford part.  After they did all the work after turning out of their parking lot I heard a "clunk" (it almost sounds like if you tap your hand on a wooden desk with a medium amount of pressure).  I didn't think much of it but noticed every time I made a turn it was doing it (both directions).  I brought the car back to the shop and they of course claimed it was nothing they did, but came back saying the driveshaft had serious signs of wear and needed to be replaced or resurfaced.  I went with the rebuild option from a local driveshaft shop and that did not fix the issue.  I brought the car back to them a third time and was told it sounded like something in the differential.  Frustrated at this point (and the fact they wanted to charge me $5k for a new diff) I bought a used differential off ebay from a 20k wrecked vehicle and had another shop put it in.  I got the car back, reprogrammed the RDU to the computer as recommended, and the clunking sound remained.  Brought the car back to the second shop and they had it a month and called a Ford specialist that could not determine what it was outside of the viscous coupling appeared to be leaking oil and was bad.  I went ahead and had them replace it and the clunking sound remains.  At this point I don't have any more money to invest in the car and despite what everyone is telling me, I truly believe the issue has to be in the suspension somewhere that the first shop messed up.  Here is what was done on the car from a maintenance perspective:

-Brake pads replaced

-Rotors replaced

-PTU replaced with new ford part

-Engine and acessory belts replaced (was making noise before this)

-Original differential had fluid drained and refilled

-Differential replaced (used 20k differential, was in good shape)

-Viscous Couplin replaced

-Transmission fluid drained and replaced

The clunking sound typically happens once around the 2-3 shift and it only will occur if you are turning the steering wheel and start to straighten the car back out after a turn.  If you go in a straight line the car will not making the clunking sound no matter what speed you give it.

Highly frustrated at this point, not sure where else to go with troubleshooting and don't want to give up the car.  Was thinking the sway bar bushing but just verified they are nice and solid.

Ty for the help.

If the ambient air tempurature is up in the 100's, and the car has been running for a while then sets at an idle with the AC on, when I put in drive or reverse and move a few feet the car dies.

So if a person has the ability to connect an online diagnostic tool to the PCM, what parameters would you look at to diagnose why the car does this?

I've looked at several and the only thing I notice when this happens is the Short Term Fuel correction goes to -25 or -27 realy fast.  If I mash the accelerator pedal a couple of times and catch it before it dies  it corrects itself and runs fine.

If I restart the car it runs fine until I stop and idle some more.  Sometimes it's bad enough to do it when stoped at a light.

If the ambient air temp drops below 95 or so... no problems

Huge thanks to anyone who can help out here.

My 2014 Ford Fusion Titanium 2.0L has an axle code of 33 which I assume is a 3.36 ratio.  The part of the differential is S-150-A and when I look for a replacement almost every single one is with a 3.51 ratio.  Does anyone know if moving to a higher ratio will require an ECU reflash or will it be OK to swap in a 3.51 differential if my car was originally equipped with a 3.36?  I know back in the earlier days this would throw the shifting off with the transmission and the speedometer, but not sure it is that big of a deal on a newer car.  Also curious if anyone knows specifically which gear ratio this model/year car had as it seems to conflict online.

Thanks for the help.

I am at a lost trying to figure out what is wrong with my Ford Fusion 2015 Titanium, 2.0L. When starting the car, worse in cold starts, the engine is making an odd lower noise with maybe some knocking. Its hard to tell for me if the knocking is the engine or the high pressure fuel pump that is always loud. Posted video here of trying to capture the sounds.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4OpLloWibfc

When giving the gas the noise gets louder, and feels like there is no power behind it, no oomph, lose of horsepower. When driving it feels like your are dragging something, which i suspect is symptom of low horsepower. As the car warms up it tends to get a little better, but still noticeable. I perform regular maintenance and oil changes. Replaced the high pressure fuel pump at 100K w/ tippet, and EVAP hose around 75K or so. I performed a smoke test on the intake and didnt find any leaks.

I am tempted to try replaced the EVAP line again just to see if thats hit as that hose is vibrating a lot more than normal now. Would greatly appreciate any insight!

I just purchased a used 2019 Ford Fusion.  It didn't come with a manual of any kind, so I don't have the 5 digit code.

I'm trying to do one of two things, but both aren't necessary.  

1)  Somehow turn off autolock.  I was able to find autounlock in the settings on the readouts by the speedomoter, but no autolock.  Seems very strange.

2) I would like to create/change the numerical door code on the driver side door.  For that I need the 5 digit code that came on the card that I'm missing.  The local dealership wants $170 for a reset.  I've looked at a few videos on YT to see how to solve this.  I don't have 2 keys by the way.  On some other Ford cars/trucks, apparently the code is on a sticker inside the passenger side door or on a fuse box cover maybe.  Anyway, an exact location for this would be helpful.

Any help would be greatly appreciated :)

A NEW problem arose the other day. When I push reset the information center And the Radio display And the auto temperature display all blank out. Everything seems to work just all the displays are black.

Is this a common problem? Where do I look for the fix?

Thanks

Danford1