coolant level looked fine, temp gauge normal. 
Anyone know how I can quick fix to get it home? As opposed to towing it? If I knew it was related to the TCM recall, I would have it towed right up the street to the dealership because it’s just around the corner. 🫠

Anyway, I reinstalled the clutch and had no problem getting it down enough to install the snap ring, however, the clutches are now engaged and I cannot turn it unless I remove the center shaft spline disk for the top clutch.   I have a reset tool on the way to reset the springs, but am curious to know why the disks were engaged even though the shift forks are at their resting position.

If what I saw is correct that these clutches are backwards to a standard manual clutch, where the shift forks actually engage the disks, and they are released at rest, then what would be the reason for them to not be disengaged when at rest?  I will find out for sure once I reset the clutch and if it goes back like the very first time, then I will be OK.

What I found weird is that the inner will spin opposite the outer, when both should spin freely in park or neutral, or is this always the case and what I saw where they spun the clutch after release that the inner one spins easier than the outer one so the clutch disk moved with the clutch?

Now I'm getting spark and I have no other codes pointing me to a sensor. The low pressure pump was replaced about 500 miles ago. I did get a p1450 code recently and replaced the vapor purge valve...I think unrelated as this happened before she was acting up. Also put on a junkyard HPFP and it didn't change the situation. Any suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated. 

No codes at all.

I will end up taking it to the shop but want to do my best to look for a few things first:

I will do my best to look for exhaust manifold leak – maybe that is the tick, not a lifter

I can change PCV valve and hose because why not, is there any way to know if hose is torn without tearing it all apart to get at it?

If I start looking for vacuum leaks, any suggestions on most likely places?

Are any of these actual possible causes for the symptoms?

I just got forscan, it is my first time with a tool that can look beyond DTCs. Is there any parameters I can look at to do some diagnosing? Fuel pressure? Engine control?

    How many cars have been taken to the dealer to have them say,,,, "you need a trans rebuild" for $$$$$$?  Then have them install the same part number that the original car had. 

As we all know the transmission on these cars are not good (I've had to get mine recently changed the clutch and TCM at 54,000KM with the car at 57,000KM now) Being in Canada I have been offered the extended warranty ( 7 year aka 4 more years left and 150KM aka 100KM left) for $2,600 plus tax Canadian. ($2,100 approx USD). It's the cheapest I've found.There is also a $100 deductible that would be payed for every warranty claim

I'm not sure if that's worth it or not since I'm pretty sure the TCM and clutch etc is probably going to go again (I believe it's about $1,700 or so from what they last did with the clutch, TCM change). Should I bother with the extended Ford warranty or just leave it alone and go about fixing it myself out of pocket when (not if as we all know) it happens again? Looking to keep the car as long as I can.

That's of course provided it's the same kind of replacement that is needed and not a whole new transmission. Any feedback/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you

We’re getting ready to sell it and I’m seeing almost nothing in stick. Curious how many others have a non ST Focus with a stick?

A few months ago I bought a 2006 Focus ZXW SE. While I haven't spent a whole lot of time driving this car I did want to put together an episode of my show on it. I doubt there are many modern reviews on the Mk1 Focus so I hope this helps people who might be interested in buying one of these today. I discuss some of the differences between the North American and European spec models and what you should consider if you're in the market for one of these in 2020.

I never liked the look of the solid plastic ribbed grille on the 2012 - 2014 Foci, but thought the opening could look better. Overseas, they offered the Focus with a Zetec package which gave it a honeycomb style grille. This replacement grille is basically a copy of that.

Here's an example (not my car):

I'll be installing this in the coming week and try to document it. Here's what I got:

I bought a second hand Ford Focus SEL 2012 in January when I was in rush and the seller really tricked me and sold me a really damaged car. Its front bumper is broken and getting worse everyday.  I have some questions. It will  be really helpful if have some knowledge please help me. 

1) Do you know what is the device behind the front bumper in driver side above the fog light . I have ordered a full set of front bumper to replace it but I just notice today, there is an electrical module in another cover behind the front bumper in driver side and its cover is broken too and it is falling down. It has a cable connected into that. I did not find the name of that device to order the its cover . Do you know what is the name of that device ? 

2) Every time that turn on the car the radio is restarted after a few second, the volume goes down and the screen goes to black screen that it should be closed and the channel jumps to something. Is that normal that it goes to a default setting or there is a problem?

3) The bottoms on the right side of the wheel  doesn't work. Is there a fuse that causes this issue?

4) I cannot change the time on the climate screen. why?

Thanks a lot. I appreciate you time in advance.  

Thanks.

Any and all input/suggestion will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.