I have a low-mileage 2016 MKS Basemodel with only 76k miles, but recently the RF and LR windows stopped working. A Facebook group for MKS owners suggested the issue might be in the driver's door panel, so I replaced it with an OEM part, but the problem persists. I also swapped the RR and LR switches, but the same issue remains; in fact, the LR window worked even without a switch installed. I know Fuse 3 under the dash powers the RF window, but I can’t access it, and it seems unlikely that two different fuses would fail. Initially, the problem was intermittent, but it completely failed a few days later. Any suggestions?

These button work on capacitance and over time, heat seems to cause some defect with the driver's side temperature + button (see first photo below) on the front console.  This defect causes the button to send inputs to the environmental control module as if someone was pressing the + button continuously.  Turning off the HVAC is not a workaround because the car is programmed to turn the heat or air on as soon as it receives an input from any of the temperature +/- buttons.

I tried something that, so far, has stopped the runaway temperature increase problem. About ten days ago, I got in the car and the temperature started increasing on it's own.  I was bit surprised as the interior wasn't all that hot.  Also, the phantom inputs were sporadic rather than continuous.  I stopped by Wally World and bought a can of compressed air, the type for cleaning computers.  My theory was that if heat caused the touch button to go off on its own, maybe super cooling that area would stop it.  After said purchase, I started the car and the temperature was still increasing on its own.  I inverted the can and hit is with a two or three second burst of the propellant (second photo below).  The button and surrounding area frosted over and immediately the temperature stopped increasing on its own.  The button appears to be completely dead (touching it does nothing) now and I have not experienced the runaway temperature increase since I super cooled the button.  As previously stated, a dead + button on the panel is a minor inconvenience given the multiple ways to adjust the temperature, including voice controls.

These are not push buttons that would stick down and the car thinks I am constantly pressing the + button. Mind you the steering wheel buttons I can use also to control the climate work fine, but when the climate control is acting up even these buttons do not seem to work, is this a computer issue or the touch button it self ? I would really appreciate any help/hints. thanks

* I have included a picture of the climate controls below, I am talking about the "RED + Button" on the right of "MY TEMP", for some reason it automatically is pressed or the car thinks I am touching it when in fact i am not.

The only thing I've been able to find are some Monroe units that are listed with the interchange number of the OEM struts for the 20" wheels, but compatibility checkers seem to state that it won't work. Is this just sites being a bit odd or am I just going to have to keep my eyes out for things?

For reference, the OEM parts:

Left: AST397/8A5Z18124H

Right: AST396/8A5Z18124G

The parts I've found with matching interchange numbers are:

Left: MONROE 72532 OESpectrum

Right: MONROE 72533 OESpectrum

But if I put those parts into a compatibility checker it says no, so I'm a bit perplexed.

Obviously I'm hoping that I can just use the Monroe parts, so I was wondering if anyone here has tried to use the OESpectrum units on an MKS with 20" wheels before or if I'm better off looking at a junkyard.

sincerely,

Tony Watkins 

http://www.forbes.com/2009/11/11/clunker-c...s-clunkers.html

http://www.forbes.com/2009/11/11/clunker-c...thisspeed=25000

I was looking at purchasing one mid 2010 too. Anyone had problems with theirs?

Car is in amazing shape for its age and mileage - clearly very well kept. The FCIM has the common problem and a new one is on order. Dealership replaced the BCM due to some fault codes (although Forscan shows some new ones as well as some DTCs related to the DDM and some overvoltage error somewhere else) but the one perplexing issue is with the lane keep. The menus show it as active but the button doesn’t do anything.  Forscan showed it as disabled and when I tried to reactivate there was an error. Does anyone know if LKA is in any way controlled through the FCIM?  Any ideas?

The other question/comment I have is related to the engine note from inside the cabin. Tooling  around town the engine is nice and quiet. When you bring up the revs I find the engine sounds coarse and somewhat unrefined. Is that common with the MKS EB and/or SHO?

Regardless, I now own 765 Chicago-built Lincoln horsepower between the MKS and my Aviator.  Since 2013, I’ve had an ‘11 MKZ, ‘13 MKX, ‘16 MKX (early build), ‘16 MKX (late build), ‘20 Aviator and ‘13 MKS.  In case you’re wondering, I’m 40.

File Submitter: ice-capades

File Submitted: 09 Jul 2016

File Category: MKS

2016 Lincoln MKS Order Guide

Click here to download this file

File Submitter: ice-capades

File Submitted: 09 Jul 2016

File Category: MKS

2015 Lincoln MKS Order Guide

Click here to download this file

Can we REBOOT the CPU? How? Any suggestions? Thanks for the expertise out there!!!