1999 White C5 Coupe
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Posts posted by 1999 White C5 Coupe
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5 hours ago, HofstraJet said:
My 21 Navigator recently started entering deep sleep mode after anywhere from a few hours to a few days. Nothing in the vehicle is on. It is inconsistent as sometimes it will work fine for a week and then a day or two later, deep sleep, and then work fine again for another week or two. I don't always get the deep sleep message on the app, but I know when it occurs as I am unable to start the car from the app (says to start the car and reconnect to "FordPass" - yes, the Lincoln app says "FordPass").
At the dealer now and they can't find anything wrong. Had this issue a few months ago and they found the battery had a bad cell and replaced it, but now it's happening again and everything checks out fine.
Any thoughts on what I should check? My dashcam and radar detector are connected to a fuse that turns off with the engine, so they aren't pulling power (and even if they were, why did this just start now when I have the same setup I had since I got the vehicle in 21?).
Thanks!
From afar - I’d say you have another defective battery (or one that doesn’t receive a full charge and the car’s system can detect a partial charge).
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The HD radiator is thicker than the standard one.
The engine thermostat does not control heat - once it opens. Any coolant temperature above the opening thermostat temperature has to controlled or lowered by the radiator and its fans.
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3 hours ago, Andrew L said:
That must be it then, I did search MyQ Homelink Bridge and it looks like Chamberlain the parent company of liftmaster makes one: https://www.chamberlain.com/homelink-compatibility-bridge/p/HOMELINK+RPTRMC
If I am reading that right this might be what I need. Comments are ripping Chamerlain for not including this with their garage doors already and I agree with them it seems pretty silly to leave this out and charge someone after the fact. Going to do more research but if this is what I need I will order 2 since my 3 car garage has 2 physical doors one big one and one little one.
What frustrated me is that Chamberlain did NOT include information regarding the lack-of-compatibility with certain, older model vehicles in their printed manual (or box exterior), which caused us significant wasted time by repeatedly trying to program the car to the opener.
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On 7/18/2023 at 1:24 PM, Andrew L said:
I know this may not be the best forum to ask for this but I am hoping maybe someone here has dealt with these issues or knows how to deal with them...
1. I am having a very hard time getting Homelink to work on my garage and I am wondering if my garage door is too new for it, I don't think that's the case but know it could be a possibility. My house was built in 2019 and its a Liftmaster with MyQ. The garage door openers that came with it have clips that are way too wide for the sun visors and they fall off every time I pull the visor down and I really just want to use the built in Homelink buttons.
- I cleared all the codes by holding down the outer buttons and wait for it to flash rapidly.
- I hold down the first button and the button on the remote but it never flashes rapidly only slowly like it can't detect the signal from the remote.
Just to add I did order a new overhead console on eBay in the event that my Homelink module is bad but I have a hard time believing it's bad. Hoping someone out there has some ideas.
2. My passenger side air vent is cracked I was able to find a NOS one and it's been ordered just waiting on it to arrive. In the mean time I am not sure how to replace it. I was able to pull the wood trim off on the dash and the screw holes for the vent are behind the air bag cover on the dash. My question is can I just pop that off or do I need to disable the battery first and is it actually screwed in? I don't want to damage the car or cause the air bag to pop.
3. The glove compartment light has been hanging since I bought it. I didn't realize it at the time but the clip that holds it broke off. I was able to buy a new one since they are still made and it arrived and the clip is in one piece but now I am not sure how to get the old clip out that hangs from the top of the opening. See pictures. I tried sticking my hand up in there to feel for a screw but it feels like there's a bar in the way.
4. Lastly this is probably SOL thing but figured I would ask anyway. Does anyone know where to find a new rear panel that goes on the glass hatch? I know this is a VERY common problem with Explorers, Mountaineers, and Aviators. The plastic is thin and cracks easily. I was fine with the crack it had in it but the logo fell off and took a chunk with it. I have a new rear emblem but I would like to fix the hole first before putting it on. I was thinking of bondo but someone said that won't work. Any leads or ideas on this one?
That's all for now hopefully someone here can point me in the right direction or help. I did join the "Lincoln Aviator Issues" group on Facebook but have not received any responses on these items above.#1. I recently went through this issue when I installed a new Craftsman MyQ garage door opener (made by Liftmaster) at my son's house. It replaced a 20-year old Craftsman chain-drive model.
The new MyQ garage door opener would not program to his 2012 Impala. He has a 2022 Ford Explorer and it programmed fine. After a little online research, I learned that the "older" Homelink controllers (and another brand that I don't remember the name) are not compatible with the new MyQ system. The instruction manual made NO mention of this issue - and the outside of the box did not also.
I did a little on line research and quickly learned one company made a "bridge" to connect the old system to the new MyQ openers - but the company went out of business. I did not save the online link that had a very good explanation on why the new system is not compatible with the old Homelink car systems.
I suspect your car is similar to my son's 2012 Impala. For that car he is now using the supplied garage door opener controler.
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1 hour ago, Ford truck guy said:
my son in law has a 2022 F250 W/the 6.7.. He was missing left turn signals, we tracked it back to the truck as everything else worked fine when hooked to mine.... Went to the dealer and the said there were 2 faults showing... Basically the truck was not communicating with the computer... there was also TSB.... tech did everything and all was good..
1/2 way into the next 150 mile trip he started getting warnings on dash - Tailer Lighting Module Fault - See manual...... any ideas ?? its going back to the dealer next week
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2022/MC-10209206-0001.pdf
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The part is called a “shield” - part number FL3Z16500A66A.
There are two of them (same part number) - one for each side of the sunroof.
Perhaps examine the right (passenger) side of the sunroof to determine how it is attached?
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It took a Ford dealer to 51 days to repair my 2015 Expedition’s transmission after diagnosis, then 71 days to replace the steering gear after diagnosis - both due to lack of parts from Ford.
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Wow!
Not what one would expect from a Lincoln.
Ford / Lincoln is having a huge problem with warranty costs and safety recalls (also a huge cost). I’m not sure if they will ever get a handle on all the quality issues.
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On 1/14/2022 at 9:00 PM, ffdemoss said:
What's the scoop on the number of failed 2.7L being reported on B6G? Anyone here have some insight?
I do not know the number of failed engines, but Ford estimates the engine defect affects 25, 538 Bronco’s: https://fordauthority.com/2022/06/ford-bronco-2-7l-v6-ecoboost-engine-failures-explained-exclusive/
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On 6/5/2022 at 8:45 AM, bdegrand said:
I noticed the Detroit Free Press has a weekend article titled: "2021 Ford Bronco 'catastrophic engine failure' complaints lead to NHTSA investigation! "
Does anyone have any information about this?
More information with two potential engine defects in 25,538 Bronco engines (according to Ford): https://fordauthority.com/2022/06/ford-bronco-2-7l-v6-ecoboost-engine-failures-explained-exclusive/
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I always thought vehicles with blacked-out trim and wheels looked like test mules, or the low-end model.
But - to each his own. I don’t understand buying a new, expensive vehicle that you don’t the looks of and then changing it. Why didn’t you just buy a vehicle with blacked-out trim?
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On 2/4/2022 at 8:53 PM, dryla said:
Wow, I can only imagine what a tech would have to do to get at any one of these actuators. Does it require removing the whole dash to get at them? Would disconnecting the battery for a small amount of time and then reconnecting be of any benefit as a DIY attempt? Or should I just make the appointment and let them have a go at it? Thanks for your reply.
Any resolution to the problem?
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On 11/28/2021 at 10:20 PM, Vicrey said:
The update (SYNC 3.4.21265) is out! Fixed the temp change display issue.
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2021/MC-10202613-0001.pdf
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18 hours ago, dryla said:
Wow, I can only imagine what a tech would have to do to get at any one of these actuators. Does it require removing the whole dash to get at them? Would disconnecting the battery for a small amount of time and then reconnecting be of any benefit as a DIY attempt? Or should I just make the appointment and let them have a go at it? Thanks for your reply.
Some HVAC actuators are easy to reach and replace. Some require partial or full removal of the dash assembly (on some vehicles).
If you remove the battery cable - it will erase any stored trouble codes, which will prevent the dealer technician from identifying the source of the problem (if a code is set and stored).
Since the car is under warranty, I would not remove the cable and suggest having the dealer evaluate and repair the car. There MAY be a TSB available for the dealer technician to quickly determine the source of the noise.
Best wishes - let us know what the dealer determines.
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3 hours ago, dryla said:
Thanks for the hint as to the possible cause of this clicking. The battery has not ever been disconnected. How does the actuator get into self-calibrate mode? Only via the computer? It is also of note that 1000 miles(about 6 weeks ago) it got cold up here and that may be about the time this clicking started. If you know, are there multiple HVAC actuators behind the general area of the instrument cluster? I ask this because the clicking does not always seem to be coming from the exact same location as I think I hear it in different places right to left on occasion. I will definitely need to get the appointment at the dealership when the snow stops -- or before if the clicking gets more intense and the heater, etc. quit being responsive. Thanks again for the clue.
Don
There are multiple HVAC actuators - especially on vehicles with dual-zone HVAC systems.
The system can be placed into calibrate mode by the dealer’s hand-held scanner, or on most vehicles, they also default to self-calibrate mode when the battery is disconnected and then reconnected.
SOME vehicle have a process for the owner or technician to place the system into self-calibrate mode, by pressing a variety of HVAC buttons or holding one down for a length of time. This information is often not in the owner’s manual - but rather the service manual.
Usually the clicking means the actuator is defective, or the mode door connector to the actuator is broken or dislodged.
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On 2/3/2022 at 2:13 PM, dryla said:
I have a 2022 Aviator GT with 2300 miles on the odometer. About 1000 miles ago, I started noticing an intermittent clicking noise coming from behind the instrument cluster. It sounds to me like a relay might be opening(or closing.) This noise does not start immediately on start-up but rather after driving for a few minutes. Have any other owners had this same issue and, if so, what is causing this clicking?
Haven’t had the problem - but your description sounds like a HVAC actuator that is self-calibrating, or defective, causing the clicking noise. The actuators self-calibrate when the battery is disconnected (or placed in calibrate mode). If it continues to click - there is a defect.
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Ford has issued a safety recall for a large number of 2021 and 2022 F-150 pickup trucks, which involves a repair to prevent the vehicle’s driveshaft from fracturing: https://www.freep.com/story/money/cars/ford/2021/12/27/ford-f-150-truck-driveshaft-recall/9022359002/
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On 11/10/2021 at 10:47 PM, Rcpd34 said:
Just got this today. This is the third change in production date. This one is especially frustrating as we will no longer be able to take delivery of the car in 2021 and therefore will not be able to claim the tax benefit for this year.
https://www.freep.com/story/money/cars/ford/2021/12/20/2022-mach-e-seatbelt-tax-refund/8967395002/
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Ford has issued a new safety recall that involves certain Mach-E models and Maverick pickup trucks, regarding defective rear seat belt anchor points: https://www.detroitnews.com/story/business/autos/ford/2021/12/20/ford-issues-recall-2-600-mach-es-and-mavericks/8973216002/
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Ford is issuing a safety recall involving the braking system on some 2021 Bronco Sport models (and some Escape models) for a braking defect, which was revealed during a NHTSA compliance audit of the braking system: https://www.futurecar.com/5038/Ford-Motor-Co-is-Recalling-the-New-Bronco-Sport-Escape-SUVs-for-Underperforming-Brakes
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6 hours ago, akirby said:
You don’t work with software, do you?They didn’t remove it on purpose - it was a bug and they fixed it.
No, I don’t work with software. I am a consumer, and purchase and use products that contain software.
A software “bug” is nothing more than a clever name for a man-made software defect that attempts to deflect blame for the error.
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On 10/10/2021 at 11:19 PM, sagosto said:
It's sad that it takes Lincoln/Ford months to fix a temperature display problem.
You’re correct.
But it is worse that Lincoln-Ford removed the feature from their customer’s vehicles without their permission, and didn’t tell them.
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On 10/19/2021 at 9:06 AM, bshort said:
59 days post-delivery and nothing......supposedly the parts have been expedited, but that was a week or so ago. One more day until I play with the BBB autoline.
The really sad part about your issue it that a new vehicle should be delivered to the customer with ZERO defects.
The vehicle was built new, should have been inspected by quality control employees at the plant, when received by the dealer it should have been inspected - and then a dealer service employee is PAID to do a pre-delivery inspection to ensure the vehicle is in perfect condition.
All of the employees from the plant to the dealer that didn’t do their job right should be disciplined and/or fired.
Good luck.
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On 10/21/2021 at 3:38 PM, eylarson said:
Either a software or sensor issue. Car in today for resolution.
And the resolution?
Ford’s Self-Clogging 1.0-Liter EcoBoost Engine Is Finally Getting Recalled
in Ford Motor Company Discussion Forum
Posted
In 2023 Ford issued 57 vehicle safety campaigns involving more than six million vehicles.
In 2021, 2022 and 2023 Ford had the highest number of safety recall campaigns and the most vehicles subject to a safety recall.
Already in 2024, Ford has issued a major safety recall involving more than 100,000 F-150pickup trucks.
When will the poor quality stop?