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Hi gang. Several points here: First, this "One size fits all" approach is not a good one. Here is what my Owners Manual states concerning fuel octane: "We recommend regular unleaded gasoline with a minimum pump (R+M)/2 octane rating of 87. Some stations offer fuels posted as regular with an octane rating below 87, particularly in high altitude areas. We do not recommend fuels with an octane rating below 87. To provide improved performance, we recommend premium fuel for severe duty usage such as trailer tow. Do not use any fuel other than those recommended because they could lead to engine damage that may not be covered by the vehicle Warranty. Do not be concerned if the engine sometimes knocks lightly. However, if the engine knocks heavily while using fuel with the recommended octane rating, contact an authorized dealer to prevent any engine damage." So telling people that only one octane is the right one is the wrong advice. Premium will improve performance for those who need improved performance However, not everyone needs top horsepower at the expense of extra cost (see my personal experiences below) Next: Therefore, no one is ignoring any irony, because there is no irony. We spend money on a vehicle, perhaps lots of money. However, that does not mean we have to spend unnecessary money for a higher octane fuel that gives us no benefit in our own particular driving circumstances. Next: The difference between 87 octane and 93 octane in my area is in the $0.40 to $0.60 range per gallon. So if I am at 1/4 tank in my 2018 MKZ, it will cost me ~$5.60 to ~$8.50 more to fill with 93 octane premium. Not $3.00 I have owned 5 Mustang GT's in my long car career (all factory ordered new) and am performance oriented in my driving. Less so now with my 3.0T AWD MKZ, but still attuned to the behavior of my car and its driving characteristics. In my normal everyday driving (no stoplight drag racing, towing, highway hero driving etc.) I can feel no difference between 87 octane regular and 93 octane premium. I have used both and also keep a fuel mileage log. In addition, I use only Major name brand, Top Tier fuels. There is no difference between additive/detergent packages between Major Brand/Top Tier 87 octane and 93 octane fuels. So in my case, I do not need the full 400HP/400 lb-ft of torque in my driving. I can get along just fine with ~380/380 or whatever regular may give me. Don't get me wrong..Yes,. my car does produce top horsepower/torque with premium. But i don't feel or need it in my own daily driving environment. So premium is a waste of money for me. Even if it is only $5-$9 a fill-up. The Owners Manual simply states that the vehicle will get the full advertised power with premium fuels (notice it does not even specifically state 93 octane at all). If an owner does not need top performance power, then paying for it is a waste of money. Yes, we paid a lot of money for vehicles, but that does not mean we need tip-top horsepower/torque and its resulting costs, on an everyday basis If an owner does not need top performance in their daily driving (or does not care) then using 87 octane has no drawbacks and saves money. If there is no benefit, it is a waste of money. In my opinion, smart people (and smart rich people) do not walk into the club and start "making it rain" with dollar bills. i will take the advice of automotive experts before the opinion of myself or anyone on an anonymous automotive forum. For expert advice instead of partial quotes and opinions (including mine), Google the subject of regular fuel versus premium and see below: https://www.caranddriver.com/features/a28565486/honda-cr-v-vs-bmw-m5-ford-f-150-dodge-charger/ https://www.roadandtrack.com/about/a31295/high-octane/ https://cars.usnews.com/cars-trucks/best-cars-blog/2016/08/premium-vs-regular-gasoline https://www.aaa.com/autorepair/articles/don%27t-confuse-gasoline-octane-and-quality https://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/octane.shtml Or, as this paragraph in the Fueleconomy.gov link states (and most of us are stating): "Is higher octane fuel worth the extra cost? If your vehicle requires mid-grade or premium fuel, absolutely. If your owner's manual says your vehicle doesn't require premium but says that your vehicle will run better on higher octane fuel, it's really up to you. The cost increase is typically higher than the fuel savings. However, lowering CO2 emissions and decreasing petroleum usage by even a small amount may be more important than cost to some consumers." Our vehicles do not "require" premium fuels. So the choice is up to the individual driver as to what is best for their own particular driving situation and environment. Bottom line (in my opinion): We should all do the research and get our information from expert sources, instead of opinions from a bunch of anonymous Internet mooks like us. ? Good luck.

Hi dschuffert. Yes, you are reading it correctly. However, it is as akirby and GrussGott stated. If you are not towing, racing, running your vehicle hard, you can run your vehicle just fine on 87 octane fuel. Sure, it may get ~20 horsepower less than if you run premium, but that does not matter for most drivers. However, if you run your vehicle hard and want/need maximum performance, use a higher octane fuel...89, 91, or 93 for maximum performance, and it will go 0-60 and run the 1/4 mile faster. But again, the average driver does not need that. In addition, if you use top tier fuels from major manufacturers, the additive packages are the same in all grades and using premium fuel will not keep your engine cleaner or make it run "better". The higher octane simply lets the engine perform at the full advertised power. And generally speaking, that is ~20 horsepower higher than regular fuel. So if you want full power for the stop light drag races and don't care about cost, use 93 octane. If you don't drive your vehicle hard and care more about saving a few dollars, use 87 octane regular. Or choose something in between (i.e. 89-91, if you like. Bottom line (in my opinion): What is most important is to use from major/name brand manufacturers ("Top tier" if possible), and avoid cheap/convenience store/no name fuels. And then do what is best for your driving style, environment and wallet. Let us now how you make out and good luck.

Hi Reynolds. There are many different parts and pieces. Can't name them off the top of my head, but I am sure some others here can. Also different tuning/engine programming etc. etc. Just popping parts from a Focus ST 2.0 EcoBoost onto the MKZ 2.0T engine will not give you the power increases you may be expecting. EDIT - If I recall correctly, the MKZ 2.0T is a ~245HP/275 lb.-ft. torque engine. And the Focus ST puts out ~252HP/270 lb.-ft. torque. Both ratings are based on premium fuel use. That seems like a lot of money and work for ~7HP gain and 5 lb.-ft. torque loss. You can get more than that HP increase just by using premium fuel instead of regular in your MKZ (if you are using regular now). Good luck with whatever you decide to do.

Hi gang. If it is similar to the LincolnWay/LincolnConnect system (which it almost certainly would be), you need physical access to the vehicle to connect it to FordPass/the phone app and have location/locking/unlocking/starting etc. ability via the phone app. Good luck.

Hi lisadsayre. The usual way is by requesting a vehicle brochure through the Ford or Lincoln websites. However, PCO offers are sent out with brochures at random. So there is no guarantee you will get one with a brochure request. Also, considering the current economy...high vehicle demand, low supply...it is safe to assume Ford may not be sending out as many PCO's as in the past. Why would any company give away money, when they (and their Dealers) can sell everything they are producing and/or have in stock anyway, at MSRP and above? Let us know how you make out and good luck.

Hi Allen. Yes, I completely understand your issue and the points you are trying to get across. As always. And I was only pointing out a part of the economics that everyone had overlooked up until now. And I covered the gamble and economic parts. And just as your point is a fair point, my point is a fair point (not just "to a certain degree"). ? So don't minimize my points...that is the job of my lovely wife. ? And yes, the markup on parts between Ford, then the Dealership/seller, then us as the consumer is quite substantial. The markup on what we as the customer pay the Dealership for labor is less than for parts, but still can approach double what Ford pays the Dealership for warranty work. Especially when Ford will limit the allowable/billable hours for warranty work, even if it takes the tech longer than the allowable/billable hours, while we as the retail customer will have to pay the full hourly rate and the full number of allowable/billable hours it took the tech to do the job. Sometimes including lunch and smoke breaks. ? Happy Holidays, Merry Christmas and a safe and Happy New Year my friend! ??

Hi gang. The other thing to keep in mind in this discussion debate is that yes, of course the auto manufacturer makes money on the sale of an ESP. However, there is a cost differential in this equation which seems to be overlooked. If I do not purchase an ESP and have a problem, especially a large one, I pay retail for the parts (or close to it) and retail for the labor. Ford on the other hand only pays their parts cost, which is a fraction of what I would have to pay retail, and a greatly reduced rate for the labor to the Dealership. So Ford pays far less for an ESP Plan engine replacement, new transmission, AC system repair, SYNC system repairs/replacements etc. etc. than I would need to pay out of my pocket if I do not have an ESP. So when discussing/debating the entire cost factor of an ESP, that huge repair cost differential between what it costs Ford to perform a repair, and what we would have had to pay out of my pocket for parts and labor, has been overlooked and needs to be taken into account. Quick example. Let's say when I purchase my new car, I purchase an ESP for $2,000 . Ford makes ~$2,000 up front. I later have ESP Plan warranty claims totaling $3,000 (if I had to pay myself). Ford's actual costs for that $3,000 in repairs is more likely ~$1,000. So I made out well purchasing the ESP Plan (saving $1,000), and Ford still made $1,000. Bottom line is Ford can make a profit on the the sale of the ESP, and I can still get my moneys worth (and possibly more) in savings on possible future repairs. Yes, of course if I never have a claim, I would have been better off not purchasing the ESP Plan at all, and "self insuring" (keeping it myself). However, like any insurance, it is a matter of odds and willingness to sustain a loss. The moral of the story (in my opinion), is for each person to do what is best for their own situation. And if you decide to purcahse an ESP, shop around online and at your local Dealerships, because the Plan prices being charged differ greatly from one seller to another. My local Lincoln and Ford Dealers would not even come close to the prices I was able to find online. And even the online prices had a large price differential, with some saving me several hundred dollars over another (as I have discussed in numerous previous threads on ESP sellers). And certainly yes...If we are only keeping a Ford vehicle for 3 years before selling, or a Lincoln for 4, and our mileage will be below the New Vehicle Warranty limit, don't waste money on a ESP. Good luck with whatever everyone decides to do. And Happy Holidays, Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to all! ??

Hi greg. What akirby stated. Good luck.

Hi JO302. Nieces/nephews have never been eligible for A/Z Plan purchases. So if you were able to purchase with an A/Z Plan PIN in the past, either your Uncle and the Dealership skirted the rules, or perhaps the vehicle was first registered in one of your parents name at the time of purchase? Anyway...It was easy before the pandemic induced shortages (i.e. 2001) to find Dealers that would accept A/Z/X Plan purchases. In fact, it would be rare to find a Dealer that would not accept A/Z/X Plan sales pre-pandemic. Even now, it is not impossible in many areas, as long as you are willing to factory order a new vehicle and wait. But if you want to purchase a stock vehicle immediately, many Dealers will not accept A/Z/ X Plan sales, when they can sell that vehicle for MSRP or higher to the next person in the door. Also, it is easier to purchase A/Z/X Plan if you go in fully armed with the knowledge of how the Plan purchases work, and don't show the Dealership you are too eager to buy. Like anything else, it can be supply and demand. And if some Dealers (not all) think they have an overeager customer over a barrel and at their mercy, they will take advantage of that. So the best thing to do is call your Dealerships, ask to speak to the Sales Manager, and ask if they will accept an X-Plan PIN sale. You will find one. Let us know how you make out and good luck.

Hi JO302 and welcome to the Blue Oval Forums. Concerning Z-Plan PINS...Are you sure it was not an X-Plan PIN you received from your Uncle? Technically/according to the Plan rules, nieces and nephews of a Ford Employee are not eligible for A/ZPlan PINS. Your mother/father would be, as brothers/sisters/brother-in-law/sister-in-law of your Uncle, but not you. Those eligible for A/Z Plan PINS are as follows: -The Ford Employee/Retiree. -Spouse. -Parents (including step-parents). -Spouse's parents. -Grandparents. -Spouse's grandparents. -Sons and daughters (including in-laws and step-children). -Grandchildren. -Brothers and sisters (including in-laws, half and step). -Same-sex domestic partners of active eligible employees*. -Immediate family members of eligible same-sex domestic partners*. -Employees of approved subsidiary companies/organizations and approved affiliated companies/organizations as eligibility is defined at the time of approval. -When both the employee/retiree and his/her spouse are deceased, the surviving family members are no longer eligible. So as the niece/nephew of the Ford Employee (your Uncle), it is hard to determine how you were able to receive a Z-Plan PIN, unless it was done against the rules. Let us know how you make out and good luck.

Hi Bull. As long as you have two/both keyfobs (which you should on a brand new vehicle), you can pull up the Keyless Entry code by following the instructions in your Owners Manual. Once you follow the instructions, the code will display in the Driver Information Center/SYNC display etc. You should also contact the salesperson and ask them where your Keyless Entry code card is, if you can not find the code card somewhere in your truck or paperwork. Let us know how you make out and good luck.

Hi bradley. Just my opinion: If you plan on keeping the car and have questions/doubts about what condition those other suspension parts are in, I would replace them too. Let us know how you make out and good luck.

Hi bradley. Are broken springs common? No. Does it sometimes happen with any vehicle? Yes. Your first photo seems to show a lot of rust in that one spot on the spring, where it seems to have broke. Are the the original owner? If not, who knows what happened, what the original owner may have done, what parts were possibly replaced with inferior quality parts etc., before you purchased the vehicle. Or it could simply be a factory/OEM part that failed. It happens. Concerning removal: I would recommend going to your local big box auto store. Many offer to loan automotive tools, including the tool used to compress the spring for strut removal. Perhaps call a few first to see who offers tool loans. Let us know how you make out and good luck.

Hi T hawker. Your minimal driving/usage of ~6 miles once every 9-10 days could be the problem. And/or your battery could also be failing, since it may be ~3 years old now with minimal charging. Add to that the fact that 3-4 years is about the usable lifespan of a battery in today's electronic/computer/electrically intensive vehicles, you need to have your battery properly tested. There are usually coupons for a free battery test (a proper load test, as Flying68 advised) on the Lincoln and Ford Owner websites. Also, most Lincoln/Ford Dealer websites will have the same offer. Have the battery tested and go from there. Let us know how you make out and good luck.

Hi DK. Yes, NAV updates are available through Ford. The NAV maps are updated annually, and I believe you get one free update with Ford vehicles, but you have to pay after that (currently about $109 US). First 2 years updates are free with Lincoln vehicles. Good luck.

Hi Sean. You can download the 2021 Aviator brochure and view the wheel choices here: https://www.auto-brochures.com/lincoln.html Good luck.

Hi mitch. Don't you have a Purchase Order/Contract with the final pricing breakdown? If you ordered a vehicle from a Dealer, you should have a signed/finalized Purchase Order/Contract with all the pricing, discounts, Incentives, any accessories, taxes, final price etc. And that Purchase Order/Contract would already list/show all Incentives being applied. Let us know how you make out and good luck.

Hi Mitch. Yes, a Personal Cash Offer (PCO) incentive, and all Incentives, are good for exactly what they state. So if that is what it states, then as long as an order is placed by 1/3/22, the incentive will still be valid and accepted by Ford when you take delivery at a later date. In the past, there was usually no incentive price protection after the expiration date for Personal Cash Offers. We had to take delivery by the specified date. Looks like Ford/Lincoln are now extending price protection for PCO's (as akriby also mentioned) due to the pandemic induced shortages. Perhaps your Dealer had not seen a PCO like that before, and therefore is not aware of the new "Place order or take delivery by..." offers. So, the next questions would be: You should have a certificate, email or some sort of written verification? Did you go to the Dealership and show it to them? Or did you only talk to them over the phone? Whether an offer is "accepted' by Ford is easy. The Dealer runs the promotion code through the system before or when they place the order. It will either be accepted or not. There is no "maybe/maybe not". If you showed a certificate/email to them, did they still state they could not give you price protection? If that is the case, it may be because you placed the order before you received the Personal Cash incentive and they are not explaining themselves properly. An order is a contract. So perhaps the Dealer was trying to tell you that the current order may need to be cancelled and a new order placed in order to honor the incentive. Obviously just guessing here. Have you already cancelled the current order and gone to another dealer and paced the order? That would take care of the problem. The other option is to show the current Dealer the offer and see what they say (if you did not already do that). I have a feeling this may simply be a misunderstanding about a new policy. Or you may need to cancel the current purchase order for the PCO to be applied. Either way, this should be able to be straightened out with a call by the Dealer to Ford, and/or a call to Ford Customer Relations by you. Either way, be sure your PCO is honored, either by this Dealer or a new one. Hope what I wrote is understandable. Let us know how you make out and good luck.

Hi mitch42. Incentive protection is only available for publicly available incentives. If by "exclusive cash reward" you mean a personal cash incentive that you received with a brochure request or something similar, then no, it can not be used after the expiration date. The Dealer has no leeway and can not price protect it, since it will not be accepted by Ford and they will have to eat the loss. The only entity that can extend it past the expiration date is Ford themselves. There is no reason for the Dealer to lie or not accept it, since Ford covers the expense of that personal cash offer (if that is what you have). However, you can contact Ford Customer Service and see if there is anything they can do to lock it in, or perhaps compensate you in some other manner. Let us know how you make out and good luck.

HI Tl99. Perhaps your car has been born again? ? Seriously though...you could try a SYNC system reset. If that does not help, one possibility could be a problem with the APIM. Instructions for how to perform a SYNC reset are in the Owners Manual. If you do not have your hard copy, you can download the PDF version here: https://www.fleet.ford.com/parts-service/resources/owner-manuals/ If you perform a reset, you will need to reconnect to your WiFi network, re-pair your phone/phones, reset your favorites, etc. Let us know how you make out and good luck.

Hi eylarson. Not blind Internet diagnosing here, only throwing out another possibility: Modern vehicles are very electronic/computer/electrical intensive. Therefore, something as simple as a weak/failing battery can create all sorts of electrical glitches and gremlins like those warnings. And the fact that the battery is only ~1-2 years old means nothing. It happens often, with all makes and models of modern vehicles. And as you stated, it obviously can be something more serious, like a software or sensor issue. Let us know how you make out and good luck.

Hi Reylene. Dealerships often make these "mistakes" on AZXD Plan sales. Have you already taken possession of the vehicle? Are you stating the Dealership was charging you more than a $100 Documentation Fee, and an additional $650 for Dealer Prep, in addition to the Dealer Prep and Delivery Charges already on the Factory Window Sticker? D-Plan is for certain Dealership employees and their qualifying family members. 1- Are you the Dealership employee or are you a qualifying family member of the employee? 2- If you are the employee, did you purchase from the Dealership you work for? 3- If you are a qualifying family member, have you told the employee who you obtained the PIN from what happened at the Dealership? If yes, what did they say? 4- Have you already signed a contract? 5- Have you already taken possession of the vehicle? 6- Did you inform the Salesperson/Dealership reps that you wanted a copy of the Invoice showing the AXZD Plan price? 7- Did you inform them they were improperly charging you too high a Documentation Fee and an improper additional $650 for Delivery/Dealer Prep? What did they say? While Lincoln/Ford does loosely audit Dealerships for AXZD Plan rule compliance, it is generally up to us as the buyer to know the rules and stand up for our AXZD Plan rights. As SoonerLS mentioned above, most Dealerships will correct these "mistakes" once they are pointed out. Therefore, your first course of action should be to speak to the Salesperson and/or the Sales Manager at the Dealership, and point out their "innocent" clerical and math "errors". Try to straighten it out with them first. If you speak to the Salesperson/Sales Manager, show them the rules, but they will not correct any errors to your satisfaction, then contact the AXZD Plan Headquarters number that akirby gave you above. And if you answer all the questions above, it may help us have a better idea of the situation and offer you better advice. Get back to us and good luck.

Hi flf. More information would be helpful. First, you say "(at least I think it is off)". So perhaps it would be helpful for you to check your Owners Manual and be sure you are actually turning the Climate Control system off when you "think it is off". In this way, we can rule out "User error". Next, what temperature do you have the Climate Control set to when you "think its off"? And what fan speed? It is an automatic temperature control system, so unless you physically turn it off by turning off the power button, it is still going to put out air at the fan speed selected, even if it is on low. And it may be warm air under certain circumstances (which are too numerous to list right now). Otherwise, if you have the system switched off and are still getting heat, or think something is wrong, make a service appointment to have it checked. Check your Owners Manual, get back to us with that information, and good luck.

Hi 20Navigator. Just want to mention that in no way was I inferring you yelled at Lincoln Concierge or anyone else. My point was that you are not the only person a rep speaks to in a particular day. And while you may be polite, today's climate seems to have convinced some (many) people that they have the tight to be rude. Therefore, I am sure they (like many customer service reps in many businesses) get tired of being yelled at when they can not provide certain bits of information that a buyer may consider important, but they have no access to because Lincoln/Ford (or whichever company) do not consider it important enough to place into a readily available database to the at their level. And as akirby has mentioned, it does not matter anyway. There would be no sense or value in Lincoln/Ford providing a searchable database to Lincoln Concierge of exactly where/when a vehicle was parked while waiting delivery during these pandemic induced, extended storage and delivery times. Even in your case, it would provide no usable data as to when/where a mouse got into a vehicle. Yes, of course it could be searched out as to where it was parked and on what dates, but to what end? Just to be able to state that "Maybe the mouse got in at location A". Or "Maybe the mouse got in at location B". Or "Maybe the mouse got in at the railhead while it was sitting there"...etc...? There would be no way to know at which location it happened...or if it happened after delivery (no one ever has mice until it happens the first time). So while it is frustrating to us, data like that does not matter where the mouse got in, only that it got in somewhere. The information provides no value, would prove nothing, cost money to compile and input, and provide no value. I hope you understand that I totally understand your frustration. However, that frustration needs to be tempered with reality. Please enjoy your new Navigator and good luck.

Hi CREATURE. Just to add to akirby's good advice: You don't mention what type of "carbon clean on intake valves" you performed. However, Ford specifically warns not to perform intake tract cleanings (of the Seafoam, CRC etc. type) on the EcoBoost engines, due to the high possibility of damage to the turbocharger systems from carbon and other contaminantss breaking off into the delicate innards of those systems. This may not be the issue here, and we can not diagnose whether it is or not over the Internet, but you may want to keep it in mind in the future. Let us k now how you make out and good luck.