Danford1

Yes it was a scam. It was a Fairlane.

I found out the car isn’t there. I don’t need anyone to go any longer. thanks.

I would be paying whoever went to look at it anyway. Good idea though, thanks.

I agree. I’m 700 miles and 14 hours away. Someone close by there can go see. I can’t.

I’ve been trying. They claim it is in the warehouse and he can’t go there he has to stay in the office. im thinking it is a scam and they don’t have the car at all. I want to have someone go there and see.

Does anyone live in or near Salem Missouri or know someone who does? I live in Michigan. There is a car for sale in Salem at an auto broker. I just need someone to go there and call me with Facetime or a video call. I want to see the car and hear it run etc. The person doesn't have to be knowledgeable about cars. I will ask the seller questions during the call. We can keep this Private so send me a Private message. Thanks. Danford1

Yes, the compressor is always running. The thermal camera showed the condenser was working. In the past I’ve had a Sanden compressor apart before. Easy to do and not a lot in them. I plan to take the system apart, spray cleaners throw the evaporator in both direction and blow it out. I replace the dryer, clean blow out condenser annd and lines and take the compressor apart. I don’t know why the original compressor was replaced or when. I suppose it could have sent debris through the system. I’ll clean out the system and start over ?

Thermostat? I recently installed a 160° engine thermostat along with a new radiator. The engine doesn’t overheat. if you mean a thermostat in the A\C system the only thing I see is an electrical box with a temp sensing probe stuck into the evaporator. That is suppose to turn off the compressor if it gets too cold. My compressor runs constantly. I hooked a led to it so I can see if it turns off. It doesn’t. If there is another thermostat in the system I don’t know where it would be. I don’t see it in the shop manual either. No one mentioned the receiver dryer. Could that be an issue? could the compressor be to small? It is different from the one I originally installed it is model B509-CL1220.

I took things apart today and checked the blend door and the vacuum operated doors. Everything works at it should. No vacuum leaks. Yes in max air mode it recirculates the inside air. I can’t get to the evaporator to take its temperature. I have a thermal imaging camera and it verified all temperature readings. The metal portion of the evaporator exit hose coming from the firewall under the hood is 60°- 65° same as air temp coming from vents. Today I added about 7 more ounces of R134A as someone said my pressures were low. Pressures are now about 50&250. Seems high to me. Anyway it didn’t do anything for the air temp. Still a good 20° to warm. I just drove down the freeway for 1/2 hour, same 65° going 70 mph ?

I’m 80% sure it is but without the heater core being connected, would it matter? It is a total pita to get to but I do have a bore scope I can use to look up there. It is on top of the heater box are very hard to get at.

Please help me understand this problem. I have a 67 Falcon Futura that came with factory air. About 10 years ago I replaced all under hood items I purchased from Classic Auto Air. It worked great blowing 38°-40° air. I sold the car in 2015. I just bought it back this year. The A/C only blew 60°-65° air. I figured it needed a recharge. It was evacuated, vacuumed for an hour and checked for leaks. No leaks ? After a recharge with 24 ounces R134A measured on a postal scale, It produced the same 60°-65° air. I read where a bad expansion valve could cause this or the heater core supplying hot air to system. I unhooked and by-passed the heater core, no change. I then spent way too much money on a new expansion valve, re-evacuated system, vacuumed, added 1-2 ounces oil, recharged with 24 ounces R134A … and got the same results 60°-65° air ? I uploaded a video on YouTube showing the gages. Low and high side show proper pressures 26&185 at 1500 rpm and about 37&190 at idle. I tried spraying water on the condenser and it only lowered temp 2-3° from sitting there idling under a closed hood. About the same as when driving down the road. No leaks in system, 80-90 degrees outside temp with a good portion of humidity (Michigan summer) and only 60°-65° air from ducts with No Heater Core connection. When changing system the metal hose end coming from evaporator is frosted and cold. When system is operating the hose end is cold and dripping wet but not frosted. Everything seems normal. What is wrong? Thanks in advance. Danford1 Here is a link to the video showing the gauges https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0bnlcMTdLp4

I have a 2008 SEL V6. Recently my compass quit working and displays Compass Read Error when I start the car. I have to push the reset button to get my display back. Yes, yes, I tried resetting the compass, driving in circles to no avail. I've got used to just pushing reset when i start the car to clear the error. A NEW problem arose the other day. When I push reset the information center And the Radio display And the auto temperature display all blank out. Everything seems to work just all the displays are black. Is this a common problem? Where do I look for the fix? Thanks Danford1

That is sorta funny. I can’t find a wiring diagram to show what is on the circuit. If I did I would disconnect things. I have two wires coming from that fuse on the fuse box. A black - red which I unhooked and a white wire. No wiring diagram I found has a white wire on the fuse box. Wiring diagrams DO show a fuse with Nothing hooked to it which doesn’t make sense but that is reality. I’m going to have to cut the tape on the harness and see where the mystery white wire goes as something on the circuit is shorted to ground.

Thank you. I’m going to check all wires at the switch. The switch was already replaced but that doesn’t mean it was good. I had brand new parts that were bad right out of the box.

I have a 66 Mustang that blows the accessory fuse ( 14 amp, fuse number 1) as soon as I turn on the ignition. The wiring diagrams I found say the accessory fuse controls Back up lights, Radio, PRNDL light and turn signals. The car doesn't have back up lights, the radio is missing BUT my turn signals work fine. PRNDL light bulb is good however connector is unplugged and I can't see where it would go. The wiring diagram shows circuit 140 going to a Yellow 3 way plug coming out of fuse box. I unplugged what was plugged into the Yellow connector but the fuse still blows. I can see another wire on the back of the fusebox going to the accessory fuse but can't find that wire on the wiring diagram. I want to unhook whatever is on that wire but it goes into a taped harness. Where does the wire go? Remeber, I don't have a radio, no back up lights and my turn signals work... Please help. Dan

I'm looking for 8.8 axles that are 1" shorter than the stock 95 Mustang GT axles. Where do I get them? Thanks Danford1

Thanks. I'll go watch some of his vids ?

Thanks. I know the purge valve is under engine cover near top rear of engine. Is there a simple test I can perform to see if that is the problem? Like unplug it or remove a vacuum line etc. Thanks Danford1

I have a 1999 E350 with a V10 135,000 miles (a guess, I'd have to look for sure). I noticed after I fill the tank with gas the engine misses, chugs and runs rough at idle. While driving it seems fine. This is a fairly new condition. I noticed it once in awhile but didn't think much of it. It is doing it more often now. Could it be Evap system? I'll have the codes read soon but also heard not everything sets a code off. What can I check? It does this with a full tank and sometimes when starting van with 1/2 to 3/4 tank. Thanks Danford1

I’m new here. I’m looking for a forum where we can talk about eco camper conversion vans. Is there one here? I just started searching the internet and found this site and other Ford sites but don’t know where to look for camper conversions. Thanks Danford1