RCRVRP

93, f 150 2wd, 5.0. I have a voltage drop between the fuel pump fuse in the underhood box and the front/rear fuel tank selector. 12V at the fuse, only 6V coming into the selector switch. As a consequence my fuel pumps don't work. I suspect corrosion on the connections under the fuse. I need to know how to separate the entire fuse block from the fuse box. There are 4 tabs that appear to need to be pulled out . When all 4 are separated does the fuse block then need to be somehow be forced up and out? If there is corrosion perhaps that is holding it. Are there spade terminals on the bottom of this block? HELP!

1993, f 150, 5.0 2wd, standard cab and box. Has original exhaust system on it. Converters seem plugged, muffler has a hole. I'like to replace the whole system from the manifold outlets to the tailpipe. Eliminating the two cats . I'm having a hard time find the components. System from cats back I can find but the Y pipe to the muffler i'm not finding. The factory setup is Y pipe welded to the 2 converters. I'd like to find parts at a reasonable price like parts geek, rock auto prices. It does not have to be stainless high performance parts. Cn someone help me find what I need? Thanks!

1993 F 150 5.0. Alternator light was on, battery slowly drained when sitting, alternator output was nothing. Voltage on alternator red single wire was 11.5 volts, same as battery voltage after having battery on a charger for a while. Bought new alternator on the net, put it on and the same thing. Engine running, multimeter red lead to single red wire on terminal black lead to ground. 11.5 volts, alternator light still on. Thought I must have got a bad alternator. Sent it back got another one. Exact same thing as before. What do I do next to diagnose the problem? I am assuming I did not get 2 defective alternators in a row. but I could be wrong.

93, F 150, 302, 125,000 miles. This truck when last driven a year ago would stall intermittently. The engine would just stop, seemingly spark related. This might happen after driving 10 miles or 50 miles. Let it sit for 5 minutes or 30 minutes and it will start and run well. I think I read that there is an electronic component that when it gets warm can prevent spark and when it cools it reconnects so to speak. As I recall is in in or near the distributor. Thats all I can remember but it sounded like my solution to the problem. It was a component that was known to be a commondefect on this engine. Can someone here tell me what that component is? Or feel free to suggest other solutions to the problem. Thanks for any help you can provide. RCRVRP