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Hi, my 2005/2006 Ford focus hatchback car developed a stalling, jerking and sudden stop problem after installation of a catalytic converter and for 5months running. I have changed the spark plugs, ignition coil, fuel relay, used 9fuel pumps, changed slow jet, changed air collector, used 2 fuel pump casings, inner & outer fuel filters and changed the brain box all to no avail. I have also washed my fuel tank from clogs. Diagnosis displayed error codes PO230, P1100 & P720. Please, what could be the possible element that reduces voltage to the pump thereby overheating it 20-30minutes after working or when the A/C is turned on?I took voltage readings for the battery, relay, inertia switch, alternator and fuel pump. When engine is idle, battery-12.48v & cranking-13.5v. When engine is idle, alternator-12.49v & cranking-13.77v. When engine is cranking, Inertia feed cable before switch-12.92v & after switch-12.84v. When engine is cranking, fuel pump-12.6v & during the stalling, jerking & sudden dead situation- fuel pump-11.6v. The problem is intermittent. it occurs at odd times. Sometimes 20times in a day, sometimes twice, 3times, 40times, but it sure occurs. One cannot predict especially when the A/C is turned on. What are your thoughts on this please?
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- alternator
- fuel system
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Hi, my 2005/2006 Ford focus hatchback car developed a stalling, jerking and sudden stop problem after installation of a catalytic converter and for 5months running. I have changed the spark plugs, ignition coil, fuel relay, used 9fuel pumps, changed slow jet, changed air collector, used 2 fuel pump casings, inner & outer fuel filters and changed the brain box all to no avail. I have also washed my fuel tank from clogs. Diagnosis displayed error codes PO230, P1100 & P720. Please, what could be the possible element that reduces voltage to the pump thereby overheating it 20-30minutes after working or when the A/C is turned on?I took voltage readings for the battery, relay, inertia switch, alternator and fuel pump. When engine is idle, battery-12.48v & cranking-13.5v. When engine is idle, alternator-12.49v & cranking-13.77v. When engine is cranking, Inertia feed cable before switch-12.92v & after switch-12.84v. When engine is cranking, fuel pump-12.6v & during the stalling, jerking & sudden dead situation- fuel pump-11.6v. The problem is intermittent. it occurs at odd times. Sometimes 20times in a day, sometimes twice, 3times, 40times, but it sure occurs. One cannot predict especially when the A/C is turned on. What are your thoughts on this please?
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Got a 83 crown vic. with the stock 302 motor. I have rebuilt the front and top of this motor. and replaced the following parts - Alternator, Starter, Starter Solenoid, Battery, Coil, Voltage Regulator, Ignition Control Module, Ignition Switch, Distributor(rotor bug, and cap), wires, plugs, Fuses, Link-able Fuses. My problem is this. When the alternator is installed in the order the old one came off (and according to a ford wiring diagram for the 302 motor. Positive to red, Field to white, Stator to black, And a ground.) All are labeled on the alternator so its hard to mix them up..., The amp light on the dash stays on, The starter solenoid usually sticks, causing the starter to run constant. (you have to slap the solenoid to get it to dis-engage) Also it is not charging the battery correctly, runs like it's misfiring or in the wrong firing order. If you disconnect a battery cable or both, the alternator runs the car but the windshield wipers come on full speed. (i pulled the fuse for the wipers and it still has the same problems, except the wipers are non operational when there is no fuse) The car ran O.K. for a few years now, until i was delivering pizza's and the cluster of wiring to the solenoid caught fire. i cut the wires and crimped new ends on them also cutting out any visible shorts/breaks in the wires i could see. And then replaced all electrical parts (listed above in red). There are about 10 wires that connect to the solenoid. 2 yellow, 4 red, 2 orange, 1 white going to the voltage reg; and then the big starter cable and pos. batt. cable. The cluster of wires is mostly for lights inside and out of the car. along with any other electrical equipment the driver may use. When i ran a hot wire from the pos. battery post to the field (white post) on the alternator the amp light turns off inside the dashboard and the car runs like its brand new (i know this is bad, so i do not run it like this). the starter solenoid does not stick and the starter shuts off when the motor fires like it should...I have ran a voltmeter and cannot find anything that would cause this problem... Does anyone have any suggestions? am i missing a key electrical component that may have shorted out when the wiring at the solenoid caught fire? If you think you have an answer I'm willing to try anything, if whatever it is can be bypassed or rigged to work i wouldn't care. I just need this car until i find the right one to put this 5.0 in... any help is appreciated. thank you.