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2002 Duratec 24V Engine Siezed up...what should I try next?????


bighank

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Car was run with insufficient oil and started knocking. Engine has approx 129,000 miles. Has had synthetic 5W20 for years. Not slugged up. After adding more new synthetic oil and a valve lubricant engine continued knocking. Driving at about 40 MPH engine stopped and check engine light came on. Would not even turn over therefore I'm saying it siezed up. Temps here in the 20s to 40s so not from excessive heat.

 

When it was towed home tried starting after engine had been off for 2 hours. Did crank slightly but stopped in 1 second.

 

Was planning on draining oil and changing filter adding new oil and maybe some transmission fluid.

What would you suggest

BIGHANK

Edited by bighank
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Car was run with insufficient oil and started knocking. Engine has approx 129,000 miles. Has had synthetic 5W20 for years. Not slugged up. After adding more new synthetic oil and a valve lubricant engine continued knocking. Driving at about 40 MPH engine stopped and check engine light came on. Would not even turn over therefore I saying it siezed up. Temps here in the 20s to 40s so not from excessive heat.

 

When it was towed home tried starting after engine had been off for 2 hours. Did crank slightly but stopped in 1 second.

 

Was planning on draining oil and changing filter adding new oil and maybe some transmission fluid.

What would you suggest

BIGHANK

 

A new engine?

 

If it seized up with a full load of synthetic oil then it's probably toast. You'll at least have to pull the heads to see what was damaged and probably need a full rebuild or replacement.

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Car was run with insufficient oil and started knocking. Engine has approx 129,000 miles. Has had synthetic 5W20 for years. Not slugged up. After adding more new synthetic oil and a valve lubricant engine continued knocking. Driving at about 40 MPH engine stopped and check engine light came on. Would not even turn over therefore I saying it siezed up. Temps here in the 20s to 40s so not from excessive heat.

 

When it was towed home tried starting after engine had been off for 2 hours. Did crank slightly but stopped in 1 second.

 

Was planning on draining oil and changing filter adding new oil and maybe some transmission fluid.

What would you suggest

BIGHANK

 

I agree with akirby. Unfortunately, its probably toast. The camshafts are probably locked up. They are the first thing to get starved of oil. You should be able to find a used engine with good mileage for a decent price. The only real issue I see with that, is that the cost of repair may exceed the value of the car. It may be more cost effective to find another Taurus to replace it rather than fix it. Good Luck

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***********************************UPDATE *************************************

 

Drained oil and removed filter, replaced filter and added 1 quart of type F transmission fluid and 1 pint of Gunk ValveMedic Oil Detergent plus new oil to add up to 5 quarts. Cranked engine till it turned over and finally started. This took over an hour and required jumping battery from another vehicle as battery had run down trying to crank the engine. When engine finally started could rear a very loud metallic tapping noise (rod or valve lifter?) which increased in loudness with engine rpm. Ran at 1500 to 2000 rpm for 15 to 20 minutes to warm up engine to normal operating temperature to let new oil with detergent and transmission fluid work its way to all lubricated parts and to recharge depleted battery. Outside temp today was about 56 degrees and after about 10 minutes tried heater and it produced hot air from heater outlets.

 

Was hesitant to remove foot from accelerator as I thought that the engine would die if left at idle but finally reduced pressure on accelerator and let warmed up emgine idle (approximately 600 rpm which was about where engine normally idled). Put car in gear and it was able to move forward and backward so transmission still works. No check engine light or other warning lights on dash but at idle tapping noise still present but at a much reduced noise level. Hesitant to try driving to any place where I could further diagnose or repair the engine as I don't want to have it stop and sieze up like it did the other day.

 

Should I have this engine torn down and rebuilt or replace it?

 

What is a reasonable price for a used or rebuilt engine?

 

What is a reasonable price for labor to either

 

A). rebuild it? or

 

B.) to drop another engine into this car?

 

BIGHANK

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It's probably ok to drive - I don't think it will seize up again. The question is what was damaged and will that cause total engine failure at some point or not? I would try to get a preliminary diagnosis from a mechanic, then decide. Unless you can do a lot of the work yourself it's probably cheaper to swap in a used engine, but that carries its own risks.

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Been researching used engines and found some around $300-$800 for VIN S Duratec 24 V for a 2001-2003 Taurus. Also found them for Sables. Are they the same or are some parts different and would a Sable Duratec drop in and have everything bolt on correctly?

 

Some vendors recomment replacing the water pump, timing belt(s) and front and rear main seals. Is this really necessary?

 

BIGHANK

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Been researching used engines and found some around $300-$800 for VIN S Duratec 24 V for a 2001-2003 Taurus. Also found them for Sables. Are they the same or are some parts different and would a Sable Duratec drop in and have everything bolt on correctly?

 

Some vendors recomment replacing the water pump, timing belt(s) and front and rear main seals. Is this really necessary?

 

BIGHANK

 

A sable duratec would be just fine.

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Been researching used engines and found some around $300-$800 for VIN S Duratec 24 V for a 2001-2003 Taurus. Also found them for Sables. Are they the same or are some parts different and would a Sable Duratec drop in and have everything bolt on correctly?

 

Some vendors recomment replacing the water pump, timing belt(s) and front and rear main seals. Is this really necessary?

 

BIGHANK

 

Not sure about the seals, but the water pump and timing belt are cases of "as long as the engine is out of the vehicle - why not change them"? Beats having to go back in and change them later, and you don't know how good the old ones are.

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Been researching used engines and found some around $300-$800 for VIN S Duratec 24 V for a 2001-2003 Taurus. Also found them for Sables. Are they the same or are some parts different and would a Sable Duratec drop in and have everything bolt on correctly?

 

Some vendors recomment replacing the water pump, timing belt(s) and front and rear main seals. Is this really necessary?

 

BIGHANK

 

I recommed replacing at least the rear main seal. That engine does not use timing belts. It uses timing chains. Unless its real high mileage, I would not think there is a need for that. The water pump and front crank seal can be done in the car without trans or engine removal. The rear main seal requires trans removal.

Its definately a good idea to replace the other parts while the engine is out. But if budget is a issue and you need to save some cash, then just replace later if needed.

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