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Remote start on F150 EcoBoost


mikesxpress

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Has anyone dug into the aftermarket options for adding the remote start to these trucks yet? Based on some recon I believe that the Ford remote start they offer only starts the truck and does not operate the heat/ac/defrost? It also requires another Fob. I am looking for the remote start/alarm/starter lock out and the ability to have the heater/defrost running after it starts.

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Has anyone dug into the aftermarket options for adding the remote start to these trucks yet? Based on some recon I believe that the Ford remote start they offer only starts the truck and does not operate the heat/ac/defrost? It also requires another Fob. I am looking for the remote start/alarm/starter lock out and the ability to have the heater/defrost running after it starts.

 

Ford offers 2 different remote starts for 2011. One has a separate fob and is a two way system with longer range. The other style is built into the key along with the door lock/unlock. From the owners manual, it looks to me like either one will automatically turn on the ac/defrost depending on the outside temp.

 

I plan on adding the key integrated type when my new truck arrives.

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From the Owner's Guide:

 

Manual climate control

For hot weather conditions:

• The climate control system will be set to MAX A/C.

For cold weather conditions:

• The climate control system will be set to provide maximum heating in (floor/defrost) mode.

• Rear defrost/heated mirrors (if equipped) will be activated.

For moderate weather conditions:

• The interior cabin will be heated, cooled or off, based upon the previous operating state (last ignition-on cycle).

• Rear defrost/heated mirrors (if equipped) will be deactivated.

 

Automatic climate control

For hot weather conditions:

• The interior cabin will be cooled to 72°F (22°C).

• The cooled seats (if equipped) will be set to high.

For cold weather conditions:

• The interior cabin will be heated to 72°F (22°C).

• The heated seats (if equipped) will be set to high.

• Rear defrost/heated mirrors (if equipped) will be activated.

For moderate weather conditions:

• The interior cabin will be heated, cooled, or off, based upon the previous operating state (last ignition-on cycle).

• Heated/cooled seats (if equipped) will be deactivated.

• Rear defrost/heated mirrors (if equipped) will be deactivated.

 

And I can verify the Automatic section, as mine has the remote start and I've used it a few times on colder mornings. Mine is the Integrated Key Fob version. It came with the Lariat Plus Pkg.

 

Cheers,

-John

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Mikesxpress, there is a Ford factory installed remote starter available with all trim levels except XL, STX and XLT. it's not a cheap option - you can only get it as part of the Luxury or Plus group, which will set you back between $1,000 to $2,000 depending on the model.

 

They also already have a built in starter lockout called Securilock, this uses the computer chip embedded in the key. If the corect key is not in the ignition, the computer will either lock out the fuel pump or ther starter - in either case, its not going to start.

 

The only after market starters that will work are the ones you can buy from the Ford dealer - I have already checked two dealers, they are about $565 parts and labor. This is due to the 'regular' style remote starters interfering with the MyKey system.

 

I have a follow up question -

 

If you use the Ford dealer-installed remote start, does it integrate with the 4.2" LCD screen on the instrument cluster?

Edited by p38fln
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Mikesxpress, there is a Ford factory installed remote starter available with all trim levels except XL, STX and XLT. it's not a cheap option - you can only get it as part of the Luxury or Plus group, which will set you back between $1,000 to $2,000 depending on the model.

 

They also already have a built in starter lockout called Securilock, this uses the computer chip embedded in the key. If the corect key is not in the ignition, the computer will either lock out the fuel pump or ther starter - in either case, its not going to start.

 

The only after market starters that will work are the ones you can buy from the Ford dealer - I have already checked two dealers, they are about $565 parts and labor. This is due to the 'regular' style remote starters interfering with the MyKey system.

 

I have a follow up question -

 

If you use the Ford dealer-installed remote start, does it integrate with the 4.2" LCD screen on the instrument cluster?

 

Someone has to make an aftermarket kit for these trucks besides Audiovox (Ford provided kit)? May just need to wait a little?

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What year are you looking for? The kits from Ford for the 2011 F150 are significantly cheaper than the earlier years. Should be around $300 installed.

 

Well, the local dealers DO like to sell things at the highest possible markup they can get away with - so I looked it up on the Ford accessories site, using Tousley Ford in White Bear Lake, MN - you're right, the prices are downright reasonable.

 

BC3Z-19G364-A - $279.91 - Part with installation. This appears to be the factory remote start system, and includes two new keys with the remote start button

 

BT4Z-19G364-A - $333.30 - Part with installation. This is a keyfob based system, bi-directional with a green light and a beep so you know if the vehicle received the start request

 

Both kits also might require BL3Z-19G366-A Remote start hood switch - $17.12

 

Aftermarket kits WILL work - but they interfere with MyKey, and some of the poorer quality designs will actually disable the PATS starter interlock. Ford's remote starters are extremely reasonably priced, I would go with them

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Well, the local dealers DO like to sell things at the highest possible markup they can get away with - so I looked it up on the Ford accessories site, using Tousley Ford in White Bear Lake, MN - you're right, the prices are downright reasonable.

 

BC3Z-19G364-A - $279.91 - Part with installation. This appears to be the factory remote start system, and includes two new keys with the remote start button

 

BT4Z-19G364-A - $333.30 - Part with installation. This is a keyfob based system, bi-directional with a green light and a beep so you know if the vehicle received the start request

 

Both kits also might require BL3Z-19G366-A Remote start hood switch - $17.12

 

Aftermarket kits WILL work - but they interfere with MyKey, and some of the poorer quality designs will actually disable the PATS starter interlock. Ford's remote starters are extremely reasonably priced, I would go with them

 

Now that's info I can use! Many thanks.

Mike

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  • 1 year later...

I have bought this remote start(BC3Z-19G364-A). I read on a post somewhere they went and had their keys cut for less than $20. Today I carried my keys to Lowes and after about 30min. they said that they couldn't cut these keys and that I would have to carry them to a locksmith or something. I have not installed the remote start yet. Can anyone give me any suggestions. Thank u.

Edited by MTW
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Any decent mobile audio/video/alarm store should be able to install a remote start on your truck. To get past the Securilock, you can either have a third key cut and programmed at the dealership (then the key is installed under the dash and activates only when the remote start calls for it) or there are newer bypass kits that tie into the TX and RX wires at the OBDII port.

As with all aftermarket remote starts, what ever settings are on the heater when the engine is turned off will come back on when remote started. If the rear defrost doesn't automatically activate upon remote start, a good installer will be able to add a relay to make it work or add it to an output on another button of the remote start.

If any of this isn't making sense, go to your local mobile store if you trust them.

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Dont get an aftermarket unit. Get the simple plug and play from your dealer. Plugs in to FACTORY connector, programs and doesn't in any way damage the vehicle. PLUS the IKITs are cheaper with the kit than you can buy them seperately. There is no aftermarket hacker scotchlock BS to rot out in a year or two and IF you have an issue with it, it is easily repairable at any dealer or anyone with Alldata/Motor information. With an aftermarket system, you are stuck taking it back to the original installer because NO ONE will work on a hacked in turd.

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Dont get an aftermarket unit. Get the simple plug and play from your dealer. Plugs in to FACTORY connector, programs and doesn't in any way damage the vehicle. PLUS the IKITs are cheaper with the kit than you can buy them seperately. There is no aftermarket hacker scotchlock BS to rot out in a year or two and IF you have an issue with it, it is easily repairable at any dealer or anyone with Alldata/Motor information. With an aftermarket system, you are stuck taking it back to the original installer because NO ONE will work on a hacked in turd.

 

Some good points, though it's unfair to just lump all installation shops of hacking in turds with scothlocks. There are some really good shops out there, and I'd be willing to bet you'd be really surprised to learn how many dealers sub that work out to the local shops...

 

I haven't researched the newest dealer-installed units. Up until even a few years ago, and maybe still, they were just like any after-market unit in which they had to be spliced in. They were manufactured by Code Alarm, and Ford dealer techs even had their own password to log on to pull pdf's of wire diagrams for each vehicle.

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The remote start for the vehicle in question (11 F-150) is plug and play- identical to the factory system. You install a small module (all connectors included, ZERO splicing. Takes literally 3 minutes. Then you reprogram the IC to accept the module and program the keys, which are factory Integrated key in transmitter style. Whole thing (if IDS cooperates) takes 30 minutes, tops. Does not use the problematic CODE/Audiovox based warmed over alarm system and again, ZERO splice in, which means ZERO chance of wiring issues. This is also covered by the bumper to bumper warranty, as it is a factory item.

 

As for lumping all the aftermarket shops into the 'hack' category, you are right I shouldn't. There are 'high end' shops around, I am sure that take the time to install stuff the right way. However, at the price point that most are willing to pay for a remote start, they use scotchlocks and black tape for connections. All performed by a punk kid making $5 an hour that shouldn't be allowed to install toast in a toaster. However, again we are talking price point.

 

At least with cut and splice in CODE/Audiovoxes that were used in the past, there were wiring diagrams available so the repairing tech had a chance to fix it. Those are not available widely for most non-factory recommended systems. Even with these, they are flat wrong at times- several of them recommend installing connections into the lock or interior lamp wiring either in or very near the door jam wiring. This is a near 100% guarantee of wiring failure in the remote start and to the factory wiring. And this in the recommended installation instructions. Customers tend to get p!ssed when you tell them that their cut in wiring damage in their two year old car WON'T be covered by the factory warranty, as it is not a factory defect.

 

And no, I am not surprised at the number of farm outs of installs. The sales dept tends to not want to spend the money for even the CODE/Audiovox.

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  • 4 months later...
  • 5 months later...

I noticed that Horizon Parts online has the Ford bi-directional, I think it was model 200, for about $250. It required the hood switch, but it is plug and play, and if you need dealer to configure it you can prob do it for an hour labor. It also has the ability to heat/cool the seats and set the interior temperature based on climate sensors.

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