beechkid Posted May 2, 2011 Share Posted May 2, 2011 Over the weekend I decided it was time to change the plugs (2006 Mark LT 4x2, 5.4, 35,000 miles) with the Motorcraft SP 515’s. Although I knew about the carbon build-up/plug removal issue, I decided not to change the plugs until there was a replacement plug that I was comfortable with…meaning I knew it was a good quality plug in terms of component design and construction. Although I did following the most recent TSB, I also relied on my experience back in the 1970’s when aluminum heads & intake manifolds were just entering the street scene and never-seize did not exist. Here are the exceptions to the TSB that I did… 1. I ran Lucas fuel injection cleaner, mixed at 3 times their recommendation in 1 full tank of gasoline. Purpose…if I was lucky, it would dissolve or loosen any carbon buildup (although many do a real fuel injection cleaning also- and it is probably a best practice to do if you have more than 45-50,000 miles on the plugs) 2. Although I am a fan of PB Blaster, I used a product called ChemSearch “Yield”. The issue I have with using carb cleaner is the lack of lubrication…..in the old days of removing steel plugs from aluminum heads, we use to mix up acetone & ATF…or of we needed more lubrication, kerosene & ATF, “Yield” provides this lubrication- much better IMHO than even PB Blaster. 3. Yes, I put anti-seize on the plug threads (I know the TSB says not to) 4. Of course…a lot of patience, I really doubt if I ever put more than 20-25 lbs of force during removal (purposefully) The end result, only one plug even “squeaked” coming out (but it basically unscrewed like a regular plug- literally). Plug #4 was initially a little stubborn, but after the second try, then waiting about 30 minutes, it came out with very little effort…just kept wiggling the plugs (tightening/loosening) by 1/8th or even less of a turn- and they all came out without a single one breaking or any issue really. Actual working time: 2 hours…..including washing my hands, total time was 5 hours. FYI- Why I choose Motorcraft. In the 1970’s I ran (like many) Champion’s in just about everything (even had the gold palladiums), but stopped in the early 1980’s when they changed their copper-core design and the resulting quality problems that IMHO still exist today. Since then I have run Splitfire (non-platinum) in my old world (1960’s) cars, Bosch in my late 1990’s vehicles (both because the cylinder head design really prefers these types of plugs), but I really had hesitation because of the construction/component quality of the non-Motorcraft plugs and really questioned the durability in this application about the Motorcraft SP508 or SP 509’s which are single platinum. Given the types of loads and burn/flame promulgation rates in the chambers, I really had doubts about the style of the plug with single platinum having the ability to “survive” as long as they engineers said. What do ya know…the SP 515’s are double platinum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenp77 Posted May 2, 2011 Share Posted May 2, 2011 Over the weekend I decided it was time to change the plugs (2006 Mark LT 4x2, 5.4, 35,000 miles) with the Motorcraft SP 515’s. Although I knew about the carbon build-up/plug removal issue, I decided not to change the plugs until there was a replacement plug that I was comfortable with…meaning I knew it was a good quality plug in terms of component design and construction. Although I did following the most recent TSB, I also relied on my experience back in the 1970’s when aluminum heads & intake manifolds were just entering the street scene and never-seize did not exist. Here are the exceptions to the TSB that I did… 1. I ran Lucas fuel injection cleaner, mixed at 3 times their recommendation in 1 full tank of gasoline. Purpose…if I was lucky, it would dissolve or loosen any carbon buildup (although many do a real fuel injection cleaning also- and it is probably a best practice to do if you have more than 45-50,000 miles on the plugs) 2. Although I am a fan of PB Blaster, I used a product called ChemSearch “Yield”. The issue I have with using carb cleaner is the lack of lubrication…..in the old days of removing steel plugs from aluminum heads, we use to mix up acetone & ATF…or of we needed more lubrication, kerosene & ATF, “Yield” provides this lubrication- much better IMHO than even PB Blaster. 3. Yes, I put anti-seize on the plug threads (I know the TSB says not to) 4. Of course…a lot of patience, I really doubt if I ever put more than 20-25 lbs of force during removal (purposefully) The end result, only one plug even “squeaked” coming out (but it basically unscrewed like a regular plug- literally). Plug #4 was initially a little stubborn, but after the second try, then waiting about 30 minutes, it came out with very little effort…just kept wiggling the plugs (tightening/loosening) by 1/8th or even less of a turn- and they all came out without a single one breaking or any issue really. Actual working time: 2 hours…..including washing my hands, total time was 5 hours. FYI- Why I choose Motorcraft. In the 1970’s I ran (like many) Champion’s in just about everything (even had the gold palladiums), but stopped in the early 1980’s when they changed their copper-core design and the resulting quality problems that IMHO still exist today. Since then I have run Splitfire (non-platinum) in my old world (1960’s) cars, Bosch in my late 1990’s vehicles (both because the cylinder head design really prefers these types of plugs), but I really had hesitation because of the construction/component quality of the non-Motorcraft plugs and really questioned the durability in this application about the Motorcraft SP508 or SP 509’s which are single platinum. Given the types of loads and burn/flame promulgation rates in the chambers, I really had doubts about the style of the plug with single platinum having the ability to “survive” as long as they engineers said. What do ya know…the SP 515’s are double platinum. At 35K u should not have had much of a problem try it at 100K like ford recommends, as far as I am concerned it is a design flaw plain and simple!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YT90SC Posted May 3, 2011 Share Posted May 3, 2011 A 3/8 impact wrench will save you a lot of work..... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djansma Posted May 5, 2011 Share Posted May 5, 2011 I have not had the guts to try a impact but have done at least 30 5.4's some go really well and some don't thank the tools gods for the lisle tool you just have to take your time and I feel it works better if the engine is hot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casc8r1 Posted July 24, 2011 Share Posted July 24, 2011 Thanks for the info. I only recently learned of the spark plug problem with the 5.4 L Triton engine installed in the 2004 F-150. I received no information from Ford re the spark plug problem and was informed by a service manager that Ford is recommending replacement of the plugs around 60K. The shame is that a faulty part(s) was installed by the manufacturer with no consideration of rectifying the problem once it was discovered. I'm thinking about replacing the plug myself since I have always done so in the past, and it is hard to think about spending $300 or more just to have the plugs replaced. It could cost much more to remove broken plugs....so, wish me luck. I will follow your suggested procedure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenp77 Posted July 25, 2011 Share Posted July 25, 2011 Thanks for the info. I only recently learned of the spark plug problem with the 5.4 L Triton engine installed in the 2004 F-150. I received no information from Ford re the spark plug problem and was informed by a service manager that Ford is recommending replacement of the plugs around 60K. The shame is that a faulty part(s) was installed by the manufacturer with no consideration of rectifying the problem once it was discovered. I'm thinking about replacing the plug myself since I have always done so in the past, and it is hard to think about spending $300 or more just to have the plugs replaced. It could cost much more to remove broken plugs....so, wish me luck. I will follow your suggested procedure. Take your time and be very careful I had mine done at 55K at a ford shop and they broke 7 of 8 so to me the $300 was money well spent!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8-X Posted July 25, 2011 Share Posted July 25, 2011 At 35K u should not have had much of a problem try it at 100K like ford recommends, as far as I am concerned it is a design flaw plain and simple!!! From the F150 sites I frequent, there have been plenty of broken plugs on low mileage 5.4L's. I'm thinking about replacing the plug myself since I have always done so in the past, and it is hard to think about spending $300 or more just to have the plugs replaced. It could cost much more to remove broken plugs....so, wish me luck. I will follow your suggested procedure. That's why you check with the dealers. I know my dealer states it's roughly a $300 job no matter if 1 or all 8 plugs break. Where as some dealers may charge you extra for each broken plug. Take your time and be very careful I had mine done at 55K at a ford shop and they broke 7 of 8 so to me the $300 was money well spent!!! Exactly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.