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2018 Navigator Oil Change


DCP

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On 1/6/2019 at 3:28 PM, Houston Sparty said:

If you go to the raptor forum, built date prior to about mid feb 2018 were built with composite oil pan with plastic drain plug. I am not sure if any of the early build Navi’s were built with plastic drain plug or not. 

Good luck with your oil change

Like I stated earlier, I changed out mine with fumoto drain valve to make my oils change easier and less messy. I will have my large used oil jug directly under and will not have to mess with anything after. 

I used fumoto on my other vehicles for over 4 years without any issues, so I expect the same. Apply but of oil on the rubber gasket prior to install, and will almost be a permanent fixture from this point forward. Picture show the model I used and ordered from amazon.

let me know if you have any questions 

1AE1E1C0-D764-414C-AC8C-B0AF29956E1F.jpeg

 

Fumoto works great, in case you want to use this solution.

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11 hours ago, akirby said:

 

I was about to ask how that helps since the oil would just spill out when you unscrew it, but I see now it has a check valve that doesn't open until you screw on the hose.  Pretty neat design.

 

I have the plastic pan and plug on my F150 and it couldn't be easier.  Just unscrew the plug with a small pliers and you can control the flow of oil by how far you pull out the plug, so no splashing and it doesn't get on your hands.   No leaks so far either.

I ordered this today. I'll post an update when I do my second oil change down the road. 

Edited by Black Label
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I LOATHE both of those styles of valve. They both raise the drain point just a little and will therefore leave more oil in the sump, and have smaller exit holes so any potential debris wont be swept out as easily. They fill with road crap that can be hard to deal with. Often they are dissimilar metals which can be a corrosion issue. None of that is why I HATE them. The biggest sin is they take FOREVER to drain.   

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5 hours ago, YT90SC said:

I LOATHE both of those styles of valve. They both raise the drain point just a little and will therefore leave more oil in the sump, and have smaller exit holes so any potential debris wont be swept out as easily. They fill with road crap that can be hard to deal with. Often they are dissimilar metals which can be a corrosion issue. None of that is why I HATE them. The biggest sin is they take FOREVER to drain.   

Forever to drain?  Dude, you need to relax. No rush here. You open the valve to drain, start working on your  oil filter, check all fluid levels, check tire pressure...all oil should be drained by then. If not, crack open a cold brew, admire the work you are doing a fine ass job...all is good. 
 

I personally do my oil change in the morning, and once valve is open to drain, I go inside and have some breakfast with my kids. Of course you want to make sure vehicle is warmed up before you drain. 
 

never I felt it drained too slow since using fumoto drain valve  past few years. 
 

maybe it’s just me. 

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8 hours ago, Houston Sparty said:

Forever to drain?  Dude, you need to relax. No rush here. You open the valve to drain, start working on your  oil filter, check all fluid levels, check tire pressure...all oil should be drained by then. If not, crack open a cold brew, admire the work you are doing a fine ass job...all is good. 
 

I personally do my oil change in the morning, and once valve is open to drain, I go inside and have some breakfast with my kids. Of course you want to make sure vehicle is warmed up before you drain. 
 

never I felt it drained too slow since using fumoto drain valve  past few years. 
 

maybe it’s just me. 


Dude - he’s a technician.  Pretty sure his boss won’t let him crack open a cold one on the job or take an extra 30 minutes to get the oil change finished.

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3 hours ago, akirby said:


Dude - he’s a technician.  Pretty sure his boss won’t let him crack open a cold one on the job or take an extra 30 minutes to get the oil change finished.

He didn't mention that, and the whole thread is really about DIY oil changes, not being a technician at work waiting all day for the oil to drain. In that case, if it really is THAT slow, I can see why that would be a pain. 

 

That's a good point to know, however. I plan to do every other oil change at home since I get some free oil changes. I'll be sure to reinstall the factory plug when I do the oil change and have the dealer put the one I bought back on when they complete it. That way it will go quicker for them. 

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4 hours ago, akirby said:


Dude - he’s a technician.  Pretty sure his boss won’t let him crack open a cold one on the job or take an extra 30 minutes to get the oil change finished.

Maybe I should try? It's slow enough I might not get in trouble. 

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1 hour ago, Black Label said:

That's a good point to know, however. I plan to do every other oil change at home since I get some free oil changes. I'll be sure to reinstall the factory plug when I do the oil change and have the dealer put the one I bought back on when they complete it. That way it will go quicker for them. 

 

That kind of thing would be appreciated, man. Seriously. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

First oil change done at 1048 miles. Still pretty clean. Didn't replace factory drain plug with the Valvomax because of what @YT90SC had mentioned. Next one will be a dealer charge. 

 

So, from a bunch of the videos that had complained and mentioned that the 3.5L EB would spew oil all over the place, I didn't find that to be the case at all. Sounds like operator error in most of those videos because they all opened the fill cap prior to draining the oil. I did the opposite and it made no mess. Opened the fill cap after I got the oil draining. 

 

Used Kirkland full synthetic. Great reviews and meets the API SN PLUS rating. Motorcraft filter. 

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11 hours ago, akirby said:

2 words - Rhino ramps.

I thought about ramps, but this was still a tight squeeze and I'm in pretty good shape. Wife has an '11 Explorer. After talking to a couple buddies with floor jacks and stands, I decided to go that way. I had ramps years ago for my '90 Escort. 

 

Edit: Meant to add....wife's Explorer will obviously need work to keep it going good. Felt the jack and stands would be better for that. 

Edited by Black Label
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4 minutes ago, akirby said:

They add more height than you realize.  I can get under my F150 no problem and I’m a big guy.

It's funny. I stepped up to Black Label ownership and get some oil changes and preventative maintenance included. But, I'm now learning more than I ever have about cars and want to do as much of my work as possible. I guess I'm feeling a bit "Tool Time" and want the tools to go along with that!

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22 hours ago, Black Label said:

It's funny. I stepped up to Black Label ownership and get some oil changes and preventative maintenance included. But, I'm now learning more than I ever have about cars and want to do as much of my work as possible. I guess I'm feeling a bit "Tool Time" and want the tools to go along with that!

This is the exact opposite situation I’ve found myself in.  I’ve done all the work on all my cars, and lots of work on other people’s cars both for favors and for a living,  and since getting our Navigator I’ve yet to turn a single wrench on it.  I installed the radar detector and ran a line for a Anderson plug for our overland trailer but that’s it.  I don’t think I opened the hood in the first year of ownership.  We got the maintenance plan and they can come get it until it’s 8 or 9 years old.

 

Good for you for wanting to learn, it’s a greet skill to have and a fun hobby.

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I also do most of my own maintenance so I decided to rotate the tires on my f150.  The new DeWalt cordless impact wrench is a beast - no problem removing the 150 lb ft lug nuts.   But after tightening the lug nuts on the last wheel I tried to get up too fast, stumbled and tripped over the floor jack landing on my side.  Pretty sure I bruised a rib.  Thinking it might be time to start delegating some of the maintenance.

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21 minutes ago, boredinbirmingham said:

This is the exact opposite situation I’ve found myself in.  I’ve done all the work on all my cars, and lots of work on other people’s cars both for favors and for a living,  and since getting our Navigator I’ve yet to turn a single wrench on it.  I installed the radar detector and ran a line for a Anderson plug for our overland trailer but that’s it.  I don’t think I opened the hood in the first year of ownership.  We got the maintenance plan and they can come get it until it’s 8 or 9 years old.

 

Good for you for wanting to learn, it’s a greet skill to have and a fun hobby.

Thanks. Yes, with the wife still having the '11 Explorer, I figure it's a good time to start learning. 

8 minutes ago, akirby said:

I also do most of my own maintenance so I decided to rotate the tires on my f150.  The new DeWalt cordless impact wrench is a beast - no problem removing the 150 lb ft lug nuts.   But after tightening the lug nuts on the last wheel I tried to get up too fast, stumbled and tripped over the floor jack landing on my side.  Pretty sure I bruised a rib.  Thinking it might be time to start delegating some of the maintenance.

Good to know. I've been wondering about getting an impact wrench. Looks to be a fantastic tool to add to the repertoire. 

 

Sorry to hear that, hope you are feeling better. 

Edited by Black Label
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35 minutes ago, Black Label said:

 

Good to know. I've been wondering about getting an impact wrench. Looks to be a fantastic tool to add to the repertoire. 

 

Sorry to hear that, hope you are feeling better. 


Thanks.   This is the one I bought.  I already have batteries so it’s pretty cheap.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007NVSQSC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

edit:  and sockets.

 

 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IFSX9M4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Edited by akirby
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19 minutes ago, akirby said:

Sweet. Thanks, man, I'll take a look at those mañana!

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I like doing maintenance within my ability. Cordless 1/2 inch impact is a wonderful tool, but be careful with it in putting lug nuts on. Easy to over torque them. A cordless impact driver is also useful for things like those 8mm bolts that secure the trays you loosen to do the oil change. A cordless ratchet would be better, but I can't justify the price. I have been avoiding rotating tires on the truck for the simple reason that they are big, dirty, and heavy.

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28 minutes ago, DCP said:

I like doing maintenance within my ability. Cordless 1/2 inch impact is a wonderful tool, but be careful with it in putting lug nuts on. Easy to over torque them. A cordless impact driver is also useful for things like those 8mm bolts that secure the trays you loosen to do the oil change. A cordless ratchet would be better, but I can't justify the price. I have been avoiding rotating tires on the truck for the simple reason that they are big, dirty, and heavy.

That was the most difficult part, and not because it was hard necessarily. An impact wrench or something other than a hand tool to get those 8mm bolts of the sound panel would help immensely. 

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32 minutes ago, akirby said:

They switched to 8mm bolts?  All of mine are T20 Torx screws.

 

I only use the impact to snug up the log nuts and finish off with a torque wrench.   I will say 150 lb/ft is a LOT!  Maxes out my torque wrench.

The 8mm bolts are on the sound dampening panel under the oil pan. You have an F-150, correct? You have the skid plate with the T20 bolts you have to remove to access the oil filter I think. No skid plate on the Nav. 8mm for the panel and 15mm for the drain plug. 

 

If you are saying your panel under the oil pan uses T20 also, that is a new one to me. All the videos I saw it was 8mm. 

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1 minute ago, Black Label said:

The 8mm bolts are on the sound dampening panel under the oil pan. You have an F-150, correct? You have the skid plate with the T20 bolts you have to remove to access the oil filter I think. No skid plate on the Nav. 8mm for the panel and 15mm for the drain plug. 

 

If you are saying your panel under the oil pan uses T20 also, that is a new one to me. All the videos I saw it was 8mm. 


I only have to remove the shield under the oil pan.  My oil filter has a built in drip tray that directs the oil to the pan without moving anything.  I thought the protective shield u dear the oil pan was torx screws like all my other but I might be wrong.  
 

I also have the plastic plug so oil changes are a snap.

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