Steve James Posted May 7, 2019 Share Posted May 7, 2019 Hi, Having a recurring problem with my 2010 model Escape: The left headlamp keeps "blowing" the dip filament: It has just failed again for the 5th time in about 2 years. When I bought the car, the plug connector for the H13 lamp was heat damaged: I obtained a used replacement but that too became heat damaged. I could not find a replacement and ended up soldering the three wires to the lamp pins via a terminal block. This has worked fine for 12 months or more, but today, the dip lamp is out again.... the second time in three weeks. Any ideas if there is an underlying problem...ie, the 12v supply to that particular bulb? Many thanks in advance. Steve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordtech1 Posted May 7, 2019 Share Posted May 7, 2019 Most of the time I find multiple bulb replacements comes from the installer touching the bulb during installation or as in your case a connector issue. The dealer should be able to order a replacement connector for you. I don’t know the number right off, but we have a connector pigtail book with tons of replacement connectors. My recommendation is to replace the connector and bulb. Make sure not to touch the bulb with your fingers. Also a little dielectric grease in the connector terminals wouldn’t hurt. Probably wouldn’t hurt to check the voltage to that lamp with the engine running and check the ground resistance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordtech1 Posted May 7, 2019 Share Posted May 7, 2019 Oh and one more thing. Is the lamp holding moisture? Any condensation in the lamp housing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve James Posted May 7, 2019 Author Share Posted May 7, 2019 1 hour ago, fordtech1 said: Most of the time I find multiple bulb replacements comes from the installer touching the bulb during installation or as in your case a connector issue. The dealer should be able to order a replacement connector for you. I don’t know the number right off, but we have a connector pigtail book with tons of replacement connectors. My recommendation is to replace the connector and bulb. Make sure not to touch the bulb with your fingers. Also a little dielectric grease in the connector terminals wouldn’t hurt. Probably wouldn’t hurt to check the voltage to that lamp with the engine running and check the ground resistance. Thanks for the info.... No...I never, ever, touch the glass.... Learned that error many years ago! But I'll check the voltage and get back with that. Also the ground resistance.... (The three-way connector block is lubed up too, against corrosion.) There is no evidence of water/damp ingress. Many thanks for your prompt response: Much appreciated. Cheers, Steve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve James Posted May 13, 2019 Author Share Posted May 13, 2019 Hi Again, Well, all voltages appear normal: 12 at the lamp (Engine running, battery at 14v) No resistance in the chassis (-ve) line. However, since I originally posted, I have discovered that my soldering to the pins was pretty rubbish! Both the dip connection and the chassis/earth were, shall we say, "not my best"! I remade them and now we'll see if the "bulb" lasts a bit longer for a change. Again, many thanks for your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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