bradleyheathhays Posted June 16, 2019 Share Posted June 16, 2019 So I put a headlight wiring kit from LMC Truck on my '96 Cherokee that circumvents the normal wiring and runs the headlights directly off the battery by way of a relay. The kit runs the lights at 55/100 (low, hi) watts instead of the original 55/60. One reason I did this was because the light output was terrible, and the other was because for some unknown reason the headlights would shut off after being on hi for a bit. Never did this on low. I've had the new wiring kit on for a few years now and it seems to have solved the issue. The problem I'm having now though is that this new harness is melting at one of the connections... You can see only one of the wires is overheating while the other seems to be ok. I'm guessing the hot one is used by the high beams. What could be causing this? Could it be related to why the high beams used to shut off before I replaced the wiring harness? A while back I asked about the shutting off issue on a number of Jeep boards but nobody had heard of this particular problem before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick65inLA Posted June 17, 2019 Share Posted June 17, 2019 My opinion. The high beams are drawing too must current. I would suggest increasing the wire size and if you have to run the wires though a connector make sure the terminals are large enough for the load and make sure you use dielectric grease to avoid any corrosion in the terminals. As for your earlier application and the lights turning off. Headlight switches contain a circuit breaker. Too much load this blows, cools down and resets and so forth. They do this to avoid a fire. That's my two cents worth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blwnsmoke Posted June 17, 2019 Share Posted June 17, 2019 What in the..... oh just nevermind. I give up. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordtech1 Posted June 17, 2019 Share Posted June 17, 2019 That melted connector is from poor connection. Could have been poor pin fit. Just cut the connector out and solder and heat shrink the wires together. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snooter Posted June 17, 2019 Share Posted June 17, 2019 (edited) U using gxl or txl wire or GPT (utter garbage) primary wire???...the inexpensive kits are usually crap components as well but it is what it is....you running a high amp altrernator???...u decided u needed a hi amp output alternar so the kids can watch marvin martian and replaced??....you use pliers for the crimp???...all the coin spent and you end up with 50 year old style packard (aka gm, delphi, aptiva) type 56 connector...the packard 56 style or 59 style connectors require a low resistance correct crimp....bottom line is wire ( looks like 10gauge) is pushing far in excess amp load then what it can safely handle..thus it creates mucho heat and u end up with a fire hazard (u carry a fire extingusher?).....buy proper crimp tool....what did you tap power from???...u follow directions or is instruction manual in mandarin chinesse??..u replace headlamps???...HID'S require amp draw above halogen..hence why they switch via relay (low current switch)...surprised you have not been blowing fuses...unless you put in a 50amp fuse in lieu of a 15amp???....retrace all your work and pay particular attention to wire size and how u hooked up the relay - reference supplied schematic if they syupplied.....then find correct forum for a post of this type...all we care about here is why ford needs to build a grocery getter bronco for city dwellers Edited June 17, 2019 by snooter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twintornados Posted June 17, 2019 Share Posted June 17, 2019 I would never buy furniture from IKEA 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted June 17, 2019 Share Posted June 17, 2019 9 hours ago, snooter said: U using gxl or txl wire or GPT (utter garbage) primary wire???...the inexpensive kits are usually crap components as well but it is what it is....you running a high amp altrernator???...u decided u needed a hi amp output alternar so the kids can watch marvin martian and replaced??....you use pliers for the crimp???...all the coin spent and you end up with 50 year old style packard (aka gm, delphi, aptiva) type 56 connector...the packard 56 style or 59 style connectors require a low resistance correct crimp....bottom line is wire ( looks like 10gauge) is pushing far in excess amp load then what it can safely handle..thus it creates mucho heat and u end up with a fire hazard (u carry a fire extingusher?).....buy proper crimp tool....what did you tap power from???...u follow directions or is instruction manual in mandarin chinesse??..u replace headlamps???...HID'S require amp draw above halogen..hence why they switch via relay (low current switch)...surprised you have not been blowing fuses...unless you put in a 50amp fuse in lieu of a 15amp???....retrace all your work and pay particular attention to wire size and how u hooked up the relay - reference supplied schematic if they syupplied.....then find correct forum for a post of this type...all we care about here is why ford needs to build a grocery getter bronco for city dwellers Try not to drink and post...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YT90SC Posted June 18, 2019 Share Posted June 18, 2019 FFS YOU NEED FUSES NEAR THE BATTERY TOO! Unless you like electrical fires. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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