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Yet another 5.4 motor issue question


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This might be a little hard to explain so please bare with me. I've looked this up and I've come up with about 50 things it could be. And I'm not entirely sure I've seen anyone describe the issues I'm having because there sounds like there's a few different things that sound similar.

To start, I have 2006 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer. Roughly 145xxx miles. Less than 150xxx. It had a tranny replacement from the person I bought it from, I believe a reman. Anyways, about 3 hours or so into a 4 hour trip I went through a drive thru, constant easing up and stopping. When I eased in the gas to pull up the car started to shake and acted like it wanted to die. It quit fairly quick and didn't do it again on that trip. I had looked it up at the time and thought maybe a converter shudder.

The car hadn't done it again for a few months until when I drove it 600+ miles. It didn't do it at all on that constant trip. It only did it when I had to drive around in a parking lot for a spot. Again, stop and go but its a lot shorter go's. And even then it barely did it. It did do it a couple of times but it wouldn't last for very long. This was roughly 8 months ago.  55 printing color copies for low cost

Edited by XanderMish
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You need to have the oil pressure checked HOT idle. I mean REALLY hot. It must be a minimum 15 psi, HOT, in gear.  The 5.4 is oil pressure HUNGRY. Or, more specifically, the VCT's phasers are. The early 3 valves came with VCT solenoids that allowed the phaser to work down to a minimum pressure (hot idle) of 20 psi. There is a revised solenoid (you will need 2) and PCM reprogram that allows it down to 15 psi. ALL aftermarket solenoids I have seen are the early design and will not control the phaser at 15 psi. IF it is below 15 PSI, it will require surgery. The next step is to remove the valve covers and check the cam caps. Some marking and scoring is normal, especially for your mileage. If the caps are ok, get a Melling MH360HV oil pump, it provides 20% more flow and an overall better design. Yours *will* be worn, given the mileage and the added flow will help maintain that hot idle pressure. The gaskets on the chain tensioners always fail and help bleed precious pressure so replace them and any guides that are broken when the timing cover is off. 

IF the cam caps are scored badly you will need a reman engine. Don't even bother with used, you will just buy someone else's headache. 

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Better yet, Ford is offering 0% interest on 7 year loans!  If you have to go anywhere near a engine, time for a different vehicle. That alone would cost well over $5k w/labor and on a 2004 not worth it. 

Good luck and welcome to the Forumn...LOL....

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22 hours ago, Deanh said:

also, check the coils, they are prone to drying out and cracking...if moisture gets into the crack it causes all sorts of mayhem..

 

A coil induced miss will first start out, under load on the road, usually when lugging before a downshift. (Which is usually mistaken as a transmission issue) Sometimes it will jump straight to a constant miss and skip the slow death.

His is a light tip in during parking lot maneuvers. 

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58 minutes ago, YT90SC said:

A coil induced miss will first start out, under load on the road, usually when lugging before a downshift. (Which is usually mistaken as a transmission issue) Sometimes it will jump straight to a constant miss and skip the slow death.

His is a light tip in during parking lot maneuvers. 

I had some stranger shite than that...one day a hard start, next day no problems,,,,,,shuddering...really inconsistent responses to throttle input....was nuts...all because a detailer literally sprayed water under my hood to clean off the engine...was told one coil...replaced them all...problem gone burger...miss that truck...

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