1970 Q-Code Mach 1

[blksn8k2]

Finally getting back to my Mach 1 restoration project. Last winter it was the '75 Bronco project and this will be my winter project for this year. This is not going to be a "concours" restoration but rather a mild restomod. By that I mean it will have some period correct performance modifications like an Edelbrock intake manifold and water pump, Hooker Super Comp headers, Comp Cams camshaft and Magnaflow stainless exhaust system which could all be converted back to original if desired.

 

According to the Marti Report, this car is one of 320 '70 Mach 1's equipped with a non-ram air 428 Cobra Jet/4-speed combo. The car was originally ordered in Grabber Blue with Mach 1 trim, black interior, black hood stripes, 4-speed trans, tilt-steering, AM/8-track stereo, full tinted glass and a tachometer. It was originally sold by a dealer in North Carolina. It came with a 3.25:1 axle ratio with an open differential. I have upgraded that to a 3.50:1 with Trac Lock and 31 spline axles.

 

I bought the body shell back in the mid 2000's and started repairing the body and getting it ready for paint which was completed in 2013. Prior to that the body was really rough. The only original sheet metal parts remaining are the roof, rear quarter panels, rear wheel well housings, rocker panels, deck lid, hood and the center portion of the firewall. Everything else, and I mean everything, was replaced with either better used OEM parts or new parts mostly from Dynacorn. That included a complete one-piece floor pan including the driveshaft tunnel, the trunk floor, intermediate pan over the rear axle, tail light panel, torque boxes, toe boards, front and rear frame rails, doors, front fenders, inner fender aprons and shock towers, core support, outer firewall panels and inner and outer cowl panels. The only part of all that that I have not done by myself was the Grabber Blue paint. Why would I go to that extent? Because of the "Q" engine code in the VIN.

 

A lot of folks will tell you that aftermarket parts don't fit very well. While that might be true for some things, what has impressed me the most about this project has been how well it has gone together and how well those major body and chassis parts fit together. For example, I was really dreading the engine and trans install because every part they attach to had been replaced. But guess what? Every mounting bolt fit perfectly which proved that miracles do happen!

 

I have also added power front disc brakes and power steering which the car did not have originally.

 

I replaced the entire interior with a Mach 1 Deluxe interior kit from TMI. The hardest part of that was teaching myself how to install the seat covers on the original frames.

 

After the car was painted and after installing the interior, all new wiring, fuel and brake lines and all new suspension components the car sat for about eight years. About a month ago I installed the engine and transmission and have been progressing from there. Yesterday I installed the radiator. I still need to do a lot of little stuff like vacuum lines, plug wires, etc. After that will be the driveshaft and exhaust system and at that point it should be just about ready to fire up for the first time. And, I still need to install the grille, front bumper, headlights, hood, etc. but it's finally getting closer to being a complete car again.

 

Most of the parts I'm installing now I have had for at least ten years and just keeping track of where all that stuff is has been a major challenge. One of the best investments I have made for this project was buying a complete set of fastener kits from AMK. That has saved a ton of time and effort. Unfortunately, one of the parts I'm looking for now is a tiny little metal clip that holds the plastic gear on the end of the speedometer cable and that was not included in any of the AMK kits. I think...

[fuzzymoomoo]

Ooh, I'll be following this one closely, this is my dream car right here.

[mackinaw]

Any mods to the 428?  Or is it stock?

 

 

[blksn8k2]

On 1/9/2022 at 6:59 PM, mackinaw said:

Any mods to the 428?  Or is it stock?

 

 

 

Edelbrock Performer RPM intake manifold, Edelbrock aluminum water pump, Comp Cams camshaft and Hooker Super Comp ceramic coated long tube headers. Also planning to use a full length 2 1/2" Magnaflow stainless steel exhaust system which includes an X-pipe. I intend to use the stock Mach 1 oval shaped exhaust tips in lieu of the Magnaflow tips.

 

BTW, I did find a speedo cable gear clip. I had an old FMX auto trans lying in the shop with a stub of the speedo cable still in it.

 

Here's a few more photos. The first is of the driveshaft I bought for the car back in 2009. It came from a company that specializes in Mustang reproduction parts called Dead Nuts On. LOL. It has the correct paint markings and even came painted with a coat of clear to prevent rust. I also bought a rebuilt Autolite alternator from them which also has the correct markings. I had to take a photo of the driveshaft since it's the prettiest part on the car that no one will ever see. LOL

 

The other photos are of the Magnaflow exhaust. I have it laid out on the garage floor right now so I can measure and mark where I need to make a few cuts. The system came designed to mate up with the downpipes that would have been attached to stock cast iron exhaust manifolds. However, because I'm using the Hookers and the collectors are not only farther toward the rear of the car but also closer together, I need to remove about 6" from the end of the pipes where they enter the X-pipe as well as several more inches from the other end of the same pipes where they attach to the header reducer flanges. Basically, what I'll end up with is two 45° bends with a couple of inches of straight pipe on each end.

 

Also, if you look closely at the tailpipes they are not bent the same on both sides. The driver side has a different bend over the rear axle and that is to clear the shock absorber on that side. All 428 4-speed Mustangs came with staggered rear shocks to control wheel hop during acceleration. The passenger side shock is in the normal position in front of the axle while the driver side shock is behind the axle. Believe it or not, I had to buy another complete system from JBA just to get the correct driver side tailpipe. Of course it doesn't attach to the back of the muffler quite the same way as the Magnaflow system which means it will need to be modified (shortened) as well. JBA was the only place I could find that makes that tailpipe in 2 1/2" stainless and they would not sell just the one tailpipe. I asked. The stock system was 2 1/4" non-stainless and you can buy those just about anyplace that sells Mustang parts.

 

Now I'm wishing I had a lift...

[blksn8k2]

First trial fit of the exhaust. I need to pull it back off and shorten the pipes in front of the mufflers to get a little more clearance at the rear axle. I need to remove about 1" and it should be good. Better to have been too long than too short. Geez, where have I heard that before?

[blksn8k2]

I think I have the exhaust where I want it now. Taking out that extra inch of length in the middle made all the difference.

 

And as far as the engine, I'm down to plug wires, vacuum lines and fluids.

 

National Weather Service says 8-13 inches of snow by tomorrow afternoon. Looks like about 3 inches so far. I know what I'll be doing tomorrow... 

[mackinaw]

It's nice to see such a nice underbody with no rust.  This thing should haul ass when done.  

 

Back in high school, a buddy had a Ford engineer as a neighbor who let him borrow his 1969 Mustang Mach-1 with the 428/C6 for a weekend.  My buddy had no idea on how to drive it, he just put his foot to the floorboard and watched the rear tires smoke.  He returned the Mach-1 to his neighbor with the back tires nearly bald.

[blksn8k2]

Thanks. But believe me, it didn't look that way when I started.

 

When I was in junior high one of my neighbors had a brand new Black Jade '69 Sportsroof Mustang with the R code 428 CJ and 4-speed. It was a Drag Pack car which meant that it was also a Super Cobra Jet with a 3.91:1 rear axle. I had to walk by his driveway every day after school and see that thing sitting there. He added a set of Cragar five spoke wheels. I thought it was perfect.

 

One evening after school my Mom sent me to the corner general store to pick up some groceries. When I came out of the store carrying two paper bags of groceries I had to cross the main street through town. As I started across I could hear something coming up the street from about a quarter mile away. It was my neighbor in that Mustang. All I could hear was that shaker hood scoop sucking air and the roar of the exhaust. He damn near ran over me before I could get to the other side. I've been a Ford guy ever since. ? 

[blksn8k2]

Thought I would throw in a few photos from early on so you can have some idea of the amount of work I went through to get it to this point.

[blksn8k2]

One of the other tasks I need to finish is installing the power steering hoses. Back then Ford used what it called "Non-Integral Power Steering" on their compact and intermediate models which included the Mustang. What that meant was that there was a slave cylinder attached to the steering linkage that was fed hydraulic fluid (automatic transmission fluid) from the power steering pump. What a plumbing nightmare! There are a total of six separate hoses which consist of a high pressure line and a return line from the pump to the control valve and back and each of those is divided into an upper and lower section of hose. Then there are two more short hoses that connect the control valve to the slave cylinder. Lots of opportunities for leaks.

 

Like most of the other parts for this car, I bought those hoses back in the late 2000's. Turns out the two short hoses, which have a section of metal tubing with bends and flared fittings on each end, were not bent correctly and are basically impossible to install. I now have a pair of "concours correct" hoses on order from NPD. You can still buy the hoses I already have from other vendors and when I checked the current customer reviews they all said the same thing...they don't fit worth a damn. The reviews for the ones I just ordered were mostly all positive. Live and learn...

 

These are the two "shorty" hoses I already have:

 

 

This is an OEM hose:

 

And these are the hoses I have on order:

 

One other task I had to complete was adjusting the position of the control valve on the steering linkage. There is a required distance of 4 7/8" between the center of the grease fitting on the valve and the connecting rod stud in the linkage. That also has an obvious effect on how well those two hoses fit.

[blksn8k2]

The the two short PS hoses came today from NPD. Fit like a glove.

 

[blksn8k2]

Engine compartment getting closer to being complete. I added plug wires and vacuum lines. Still having a minor issue with the air filter. Seems the K&N drop in filter I bought in 2010 is a little too tall. It was the correct replacement part number but the chrome air cleaner lid will not seal against the base. Right now I am waiting on the Motorcraft FA-41 that I have ordered to see if it fits any better. The first two photos are without a filter and the last is with the K&N installed.

[blksn8k2]

I ended up going with a Wix air filter for a 75-76 Mustang II 5.0L, of all things. It is the same ID and OD as the OEM filter but is about 1/4" lower in height. That got the air cleaner lid down to where it should be with a slight gap between it and the base which is closed by the rubber gasket on the bottom of the lid. Much better fit. I even tried the supposedly correct Motorcraft FA-14 air filter but it was no better that the K&N that I already had. K&N also has a replacement filter for the Mustang II application and I will probably use one of those eventually but the WIX was about 1/4 of the price of the K&N and a better choice for this experiment.

 

I also started installing the front end trim including the grille, sport lamps in the grille, the headlights and the surrounding trim for all of that. Next up will be the front bumper, front turn signal lights and the front side marker lights. I'm still waiting on a set of new mounting brackets for the marker lights. New horns and wipers have also been added.

 

The seal between the hood and core support is kind of an experiment at this point. The reason Ford used those was to keep more air passing through the radiator rather than over it. On the '70 Mach 1 they used a set of twist on hood locks that pass through holes in the hood and lock into brackets on the core support. That seal is actually supposed to cover the entire top of the core support but would obviously interfere with those hood "pins". I haven't found any photos yet to see how that was handled originally so this is probably a temporary experiment as well.

 

 

Edited February 8, 2022 by blksn8k2

[blksn8k2]

Front bumper trial fit. There are six separate support brackets for the bumper. Four attach to the frame rails and two to the front valance.

 

I'm thinking I might add a factory air dam. 

[blksn8k2]

I ordered the front air dam yesterday.

 

I'm not happy with the car's stance. When I was ordering parts years ago I decided to go with lowering springs front and rear. I'm OK with the rear ride height but the front is way too high for my taste. The front is actually higher than the rear by about 3/4". Not what I wanted at all but I couldn't know that until after the engine, transmission, etc. were all installed. I also have gas charged KYB shocks front and rear. Gas shocks typically have a lot of resistance in compression and these are no exception. Just to verify that I removed both front upper shock mounts and the car dropped by about 1/4" in front. However, the real problem is with those front "lowering" springs. The coils are just too stiff which is causing the car to sit too high. Probably won't ride worth a shit either. They were advertised as providing a 1" drop but the car actually sits higher in front than it would with stock springs. I could probably remove a coil or two from the springs but that would just make it ride even rougher. Not good.

 

 

So, now I'm considering trying a set of coil-over shocks on the front. QA1 now makes bolt-on coil-overs for classic Mustangs which were not available back when I was ordering most of the suspension stuff. They have both single and double adjustable shocks with spring rates ranging from 250 to 500 lbs with ride heights adjustable from stock to 2" lower. 

 

QA1's single adjustable shocks actually adjust both compression and rebound settings by turning a single knob which has 18 different settings. Their double adjustables use separate knobs to adjust compression and rebound and offer literally hundreds of combinations. Overkill for a street car IMO.

 

By combining the proper spring rate and knob adjustments the single adjustable shocks should be capable of providing a decent street ride, which I doubt I would have with the current setup, and still have enough adjustment remaining for better handling, all while allowing me to set the ride height where I want it.

 

Just like most of the other mods I have made these would not alter the car to the point where stock parts could not be installed in their place if so desired. 

 

Regardless, I won't make a decision until I've had a chance to drive the car with the current setup so I know what the real ride height and ride quality are. If I decide a change is in order, as I expect it will be, I'll contact QA1 for their recommendations which would basically be which spring rate to use.

[HotRunrGuy]

Lordy, those front coils look like they came off of a railroad boxcar,,,,

 

HRG

[blksn8k2]

Exactly.

[blksn8k2]

The side marker light mounting brackets and front air dam came today. About the only remaining task body-wise is to bolt the hood back on.

[blksn8k2]

I added a few of the under-hood decals. There are a few more that I have and could add but I guess I'm not really interested in going that far. One of my wise guy buddies asked if the chalk marks were next. I have a decal for the trunk mounted scissors jack and I'll probably add that and the tire pressure decal for the door post or door or wherever that's supposed to go. I'm not even sure which door at this point.

 

There's also a data decal that I think goes on the back edge of the driver's door and that one includes the VIN. The VIN is also on a metal tag at the base of the windshield and is stamped at the top of each shock tower but those are partially hidden under the fenders. Then there's also a metal build or "buck" tag that goes under the hood on top of the passenger side fender apron, I think.  I'm obviously still researching some of the locations. 

 

This car was built in Dec 1969 at the Metuchen, NJ plant which was one of three Mustang plants at the time. What I'm finding out is that each plant may have located some of this stuff differently from the other plants. As a matter of fact, I just read that the "CAUTION FAN" decal was not even installed by the factory but was probably installed by the dealer or customer since Ford supposedly mailed them to customers long after the cars were built. So, technically, I probably shouldn't have installed that one. ?

 

     

[blksn8k2]

I had a phone conversation with tech support at QA1 on Friday. I called them to get their recommendation on spring rates for their coil-over front shocks. I told the guy that I estimated the car's curb weight at about 3600 lbs with about 55% of that over the front tires. I also told him I was considering the 450 lb/in springs. He agreed that would be a good compromise and that if I wanted a firmer ride for improved handling the single adjustable shocks would have enough adjustment to handle that. He also said that they do sell the springs separately in case I decide later that I need a different spring rate. 

 

The one thing that he brought up which surprised me was that if I was using an export brace I could have hood clearance issues. Well, guess what? I am using one. If you look at the photo in my last post the export brace is that stamped V-shaped plate behind the air cleaner. It provides a stiffer triangulation between the tops of the shock towers and the firewall than the two individual plates that came on the car originally.

 

He said he would call me back with the overall height dimension of the upper shock mounting bracket that replaces the factory upper mount. That's the black bracket on the top of the shock in this photo. That bracket mounts on top of the shock tower and since the export brace will be between it and the shock tower, the thickness of the export brace can be just enough more than that of the standard two-piece braces to cause interference with the underside of the hood. I'm a little surprised that they would cut it that close. You can also buy export braces made from billet aluminum and my guess is that is what has caused others problems with hood clearance, not the stamped steel brace like I have.

 

Once I get the hood back on I can try the crushed aluminum foil trick that one of my buddies told me he saw on an episode of Bitchin Rides. That will tell me how much clearance I have between the factory upper shock mount and the underside of the hood. Then I can compare the crushed thickness of the foil to the difference in height between the factory upper mount/shock eyelet and QA1's upper mount.

 

 

 

[blksn8k2]

I checked the thickness of the new export brace versus the original shock tower braces and the difference is .057" (.125" - .068"). Again, I have a hard time believing that QA1 would design something with such a small margin of error.

 

Factory tolerances for body assembly in 1970 were probably greater than that.

[blksn8k2]

Finally got a response from QA1 on the height of their upper shock mounting bracket and they said it is 3.16" tall. That could be a deal breaker but I hope not. Best course of action will still be to re-install the hood and check the available space before placing an order.

 

I've also been trying to decide what type of brake fluid to use. Because virtually every part of the brake system is new I might be able to use whatever is out there. When I replaced the tubing I used stainless steel and the flex hoses at each wheel are braided SS.

 

Right now I'm thinking I will go with Dot 5.1. My reasoning is that it has the highest boiling point and is compatible with Dot 3 and Dot 4 and should not cause issues with rubber seals within the system like Dot 5 can because Dot 5 is silicon based. And because it is silicon based, I don't think I'm interested in Dot 5 because again it is not compatible with any of the other non-silicon based fluids and might cause even worse corrosion issues on a vehicle that is not daily driven. True, it will not absorb moisture like any of the other choices but that could lead to moisture collecting in the lowest points of the system (like wheel or caliper cylinders) since moisture is going to be there regardless. It just won't be suspended in the fluid. Probably better in a racing application where major brake components are replaced on a regular basis. Not sure that even makes sense since Dot 5.1 actually has a higher boiling point than Dot 5.

 

One the downsides to Dots 3, 4 & 5.1 is that they will destroy painted surfaces while silicon based Dot 5 will not. They will also lose some of their effectiveness over time because they will be diluted by the moisture they absorb which will lower their boiling points but that would be somewhat mitigated by using the one with the highest boiling point which is Dot 5.1.

 

Good comparison data here:

 

http://www.mototribology.com/articles/brake-fluid/

[coupe3w]

What size are your tires and wheels? What offset / back spacing?

 

I'm not a fan of silicon brake fluid.

 

DOT5 Pros:
Will not eat the paint and cause horrible rust when (not if) then master cylinder leaks all over the front shelf.
Fluid will last indefinitely provided it stays clean. Can be filtered and re-used.
Does not absorb water, so moisture from the atmosphere will not enter then system and cause rust.
Higher boiling point than DOT 3 or 4.

DOT5 Cons:
Expensive and harder to find than DOT 3/4.
More difficult to get all the air out.
If water does somehow get in, it will localize at low points and cause rust or possibly boil if at the caliper.

DOT 3/4 Pros:
Cheaper and easier to find.
Moisture does not collect at low points

DOT 3/4 Cons:
Will eat the paint off anything it touches
Will absorb moisture from the atmosphere.
Any water in the system spreads throughout and rusts everything, so regular flushing is required.

Edited February 25, 2022 by coupe3w

[blksn8k2]

DOT 5.1 is NOT in any way related to DOT 5. It is not silicon based and has higher boiling points than 3, 4 or 5.

 

The wheels are from Canadian importer GLA https://www.goldenleafautomotive.com/#/Product_list?make=WHEEL

 

I bought mine through a Dynacorn dealer and they were shipped from the Dynacorn distributor in Pittsburgh. They are obviously styled after the original Magnum 500. I wanted 17" wheels due to more modern tire choices and IMO these were the best Magnum 500 style in that size.

 

The fronts are 17x7 (FW177C) with Goodrich 245/45ZR17 Comp T/As. The rears are 17x8 (FW178C) with Goodrich 275/40ZR17 G-Force Comp 2s. I'm not sure about offsets or backspacing but they were designed specifically to fit classic Mustangs. I bought them two or three years ago and don't remember the exact details, if I ever had them.

[akirby]

Have you thought about black racing stripes?