Sharptj
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Posts posted by Sharptj
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Not sure if this is the right place, so sorry if it isn't. Since Ford does not have a repair pigtail (that anyone can locate) for the ABS module, can I splice/solder the connector from a salvage vehicle without any issues?
I would really like to avoid spending $800 for a new engine harness
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I am looking for the correct part number for the wiring harness that plugs into the ABS module in the engine bay on the driver's side. I have looked at the diagrams on fordparts.com and can't seem to relate to which harness is the correct one. If I can't locate the correct harness, I guess I will have to splice the one that is there. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
2011 Expedition Limited EL RWD w/o airbags
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True, but in my area there are only two Ford dealerships and the other I don't have much faith in as they proved pretty useless and rude to me when I had my 2006 Mustang
Aftermarket exhaust? I would bet a good sum of money that the sound is an exhaust rattle... Cat backs with clamps? Did you install? It is hard to get the clamps on correctly and tight, without dropping a good portion of the exhaust.
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So I had the dreaded passenger water leak on my 2005 GT. It flooded the SJB and fried it. Does anyone know why Ford hasn't initiated a recall for this? A simple google search reveals thousands, if not hundreds of thousands, of people with the same issue. In my case, I was on the interstate in a torrential rain when the SJB died and the SJB failed. It it is a bad design from the factory, not to mention Ford's attempt to to "bandage" the problem with a piece of foam over the SJB, rather than correcting the problem.
Now I am out $430 for the SJB and probably $100+ for "programming"...all because of a terrible design in the cabin air filter box.
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Holy hanna did anyone even read my post?
The valley in the mod blocks has an opening in the back end that leads to the flywheel.
If it did not have this you be able to fill the valley with fluid and it would no where to go. And would just sit there.
matthew
I must have just read over your original post...I see someone on another board has told me the same thing so I guess that is how it happened...so where does water go when it flows into the bellhousing for the valley?
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How the hell did it get in there? 1/4 extention is not the sort of size you would be using within the bell housing very odd indeed, have you had a clutch change in the past? some animal might of used it to jam the flywheel whilst undoing the clutch plate bolts and forgot about it and left it in there in the starter aperture.
It reminds me of a rattling sound that developed everytime l turned the steering wheel on an 1973 Mk1 Escort l owned many moons ago. It turned out to be a socket that popped off the streering wheel retaining nut when l went over a bump and rattling around in the recess. Still l gained an 1 1/4 socket from Ford and it cured the problem. You were very lucky to not get hurt, it could caused a nasty accident.
Nope, I have done 100% of the work on my vehicle, from oil changes to tire changes to lowering. The bellhousing has never been opened or the starter removed until the engine locked up...I have NO idea how ANYTHING could get in there other then through the starter opening, or inspection plate (if there is one, I have never noticed it)
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but don't 2005 and newer Fords have a 5-Year 60,000 mile power-train warranty? Shouldn't that be covered under warranty?
The 5/60 started in middle of 2006
Well, I just replaced plugs and gave her a tune up she runs great now...I dunno how it got in there but everything seems to be fine now :crossed fingers: I still wish I knew where it came from -
You found it!
I've been looking all over for my extension, would you mind mailing it back to me so I can exchange it for a new one?
Sorry, I had to be a smart ass...
Were any other tools etc found in the area and what is the extent of the damage to the vehicle?
I have seen something like this before, years ago a customer called very upset and said her new Corolla's accelerator had jammed wide open. I didn't believe her but since she was close I drove a couple of miles to find her and her son looking at the car like it had just tried to kill them. When I opened the hood sure enough I saw the throttle jammed wide open, this was long before drive by wire systems. Upon removing the cruise control actuator linkage cover I found a plastic cover for the wiper arm nut jammed in the linkage. Both wiper arms had their covers so I assumed the extra cap was dropped into the linkage on the assembly line before the actuator linkage cover was installed. It took a while to jam the accelerator but the car only had about 4,000 miles on it. The lady was so scared she never drove that car again and traded it in.
No that was the only thing found in there...We don't THINK there was any major damage...No broken teeth on flywheel, etc...
It sat for 3 weeks with an almost empty fuel tank, and now has a little problem stuttering on acceleration...codes keep showing a misfire on cylinder 8...I'm gonna change out the plugs today and hope they are just fouled pretty good or condensation from the big temperature changed we have had over the last couple weeks.
I pray that it is not a twisted crank or something along those lines...the engine locked up at idle, so hopefully nothing major happened.
So what kind of tools do you all use a Flat Rock?
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Inside the bell housing? Not likely. That's all pretty well sealed up to keep water out of the transmission. Besides if someone just wanted to jack up his car there are a lot easier ways then somehow getting a socket extension into the bell housing. I mean first off you have to get up under the car to do it and without a jack that's not an easy thing on a Mustang that only has about 4 to 5 inches of ground clearance.
mine is lowered 2" also
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I haven't been under any late model stangs of late, but do they not have a "inspection" port that is pluged with a rubber cover? I'm still betting on angered neighbor or co worker. I highly doubt Ford factory uses Craftsmen tools. I do not know any dealer techs who use them they all got MAC or Snap-on...
It would be virtually impossible to get under the car...there is only about 2" clearance...not even enough to get a jack under it really...I would think they would use MATCO or SNAP-ON tools...but ya never know
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I dont believe I have ever seen or heard of anything quite like this. I know one guy who had a drive shaft fall out of a bronco 2 on the way home when it was bran new. How did it last in there that long is my question?
39,000 miles...I never heard a sound out of it until I had a small collision which "bumped" the bottom of the car pretty good on a curb...
I don't understand how it could have been in there so long and I had not heard it rattling around or something...if there was ANY way for something to get in the bellhousing, I would believe that over it being in there for 39K
and the extension has a serial number of sorts engraved on it
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Follow up question. Can anyone who works at the Mustang assembly plant verify that you folks use Sears Craftsmen tools at the plant?
Thx...
yes, I would like to know also...I know I will never get Ford to pay for this even if they do...but my curiosity wants to know
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It's a 2005 Mustang GT with 39,000 miles on her...all the sudden the other day it just locked up and died...it was locked up tighter then a nun at...well, you get the point
I took it to a shop to do this work since I don't really have the time. Well, he dropped the tranny and found this lodged at the flywheel...Now, I have never opened the bellhousing up and no one else has ever worked on my car until today...I bought it new with 6 miles on it...Someone tell me how the fuck this got in there!!
He called me and the conversation went something like this...
Him: Who have you had working on your car?
Me: No one, I always work on it except for this.
Him: <b>Well, have you ever been in the bell housing?
ME: No, whats up?
Him: I just dropped your tranny and found a 1/4" drive socket extension jammin' the flywheel up.
Me: WTF?
So what kind of tools does Ford Motor company use anyway? lol
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So I had a catastrophic engine failure at only 39K miles on my 2005 GT...I am trying to decide whether to go with this engine:
MMR Street Mod 900 3V 2005-2007 Longblock
Cobra Block with MMR/Manley Forged Pistons with 3V valve reliefs, 4340 Manley Forged H-Beam Rods w/ARP bolts, forged crankshaft fully balanced and blueprinted in a Brand new 03/O4 Cobra Block with Production Ford 3V heads fully assembled with Stainless Steel Valves, ARP head studs, MMR/Felpro head gaskets, Manley Polished Nextek springs and and a High Volume oil pump.
Upgrade to MMR Street/Racing Oil pump
Add ARP Main Studs
Add MMR 7qrt Street/Racing Oil Pan
Upgrade to Stage 2 Ported Heads
for a total of $7276.99 plus install and timing
OR
just buy a 2003 Cobra crate motor and drop her in....if I buy the cobra motor for ~$4K...will the motor mounts line up by chance? Anything else to look out for?
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I actually forgot I posted this here...glad to see I am not the only one having problems with the airbags in my car....I am hesitant to go the buy back route because they charge you for the miles you have driven...I am afraid I will be out more mney for the ileage, then on top of that the difference for a new model year...it will cost me too much...
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So far, I have had my car in 6 times for repair. the 1st 2 times, the dealer reset the computer and said it was fixed. Then it happened again...the told me they were unable to duplicate the problem and I thne showed them video of it malfunctioning on my phone. Myself and one of the techs went for a test drive and sure enough the light happened to come on. They replaced the passenger seat weight sensor and recalibrated.
This did not fix the problem, and I agai took it back and they said they could not duplicate the problem,and I showed them another clip of the malfunction on my phone. And they said they still could do nothing about it.
I started the Dispute Resolution Process and I am in the process of filing the appropriate papers.
Does anyone here have any idea what could be causing this problem? The passenger airbag light comes on randomly when people are sitting in the seat...and it also comes on randomly when there is no one in the seat.
Any help on either the problem or the Dispute Resolution Process would be greatly appreciated.
John
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Sounds like normal operation of the OCS, or Occupant Classification Sensor. Check your owner's manual. The light is supposed to come on dependant on weight in the seat. IF it detects weight in the seat that does not meet its minimum weight requirements, it will turn the light on, indicating that the passenger's airbag is off, due to someone or something in the seat that is too light. I have also seen them come on, go off when the passenger is right at that magic number where they are just heavy enough to turn the bag off if they sit just right. Double check the weights listed in your owner's manual and see if whatever is in the seat should be turning the bag off or not. IF any part of the seat has ever been serviced, the ocs needs to be re-calibrated.
This is in no way, shape,or form normal. The airbag light comes on when no one is in the seat, and it has come on when a 150# guy is sitting there. It came on once when I was on a trip from Knoxville to Nashville and stayed on for an hour with nothing at all in the seat.
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Usually the SRS does not throw a DTC error code. The SRS usually flashes the airbag light (once it fails self test), flashes - then pauses - then flashes - to make up a two digit code called a LCF.
For example on my Lincoln LS - three flashes, pause, two flashes - is a code 32
DTC: B1932 LCF:32 Driver Air Bag Circuit Resistance High
it means that the circuit to the steering wheel air bag is likely 'open' or has a broken wire.
The cause is normally one of two things:
- the wiring to the sensor in the driver's seat is broken - it is under the seat and breaks because the seat moves back and forth so much. the wiring is hard to get to under the seat but not hard to fix.
- the clockspring needs to be replaced, it wears through a ribbon cable inside the unit itself. The clockspring is under the steering wheel, so you have to kill the power, remove the air bag, pull the steering wheel (need a two prong wheel puller), then remove the plastic steering column housing. The clockspring then only take 15mins to swap.
What is your car?
Thanks for the reply...I haven't noticed any pattern of flashes...soemtimes it just comes on then goes off with people in the seat or without people in the seat.
BTW, my car is a 2005 Mustang GT
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I took my car in originally around January 15th for the passenger airbag light coming on. They said they fixed it, but it came on again about a week later. I took it back in to have some other stuff finished and they said they would look at it again...but somehow it was left out. Now, today, I took it in again and they basically said that the light sould not be coming on because it was not showing any codes. I showed them video proof that it was coming on and they still said there was nothing to fix.
Finally, me and the tech went for a test drive and lo and behold the airbag light came on with me in the passenger seat. He had the computer hooked up to it and it still showed no codes or errors.
They are going to replace the sensor and see if that fixes it...if it don't, what else could it be? I do not feel comfortable driving around with an airbag system that might be FUBAR.
Any ideas?
John
2011 ABS pigtail
in Ford Powertrain Tech
Posted
The connector was crushed and the wiring was cut right at the module. Just wanted to be sure there wasn't anything resistance dependant or something on that pigtail