bucky919
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Posts posted by bucky919
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I had the Ford bi-directional installed by the dealer after my FFH arrived for a total of $350. Works great-no issues.
I have it also, ya the range isn't a couple miles, but it works. It was the only remote start I could get when I first bought the car so its better than nothing.
It took my dealer less than a half hour to install it.
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I have a tank on order also, went around and around with the service department, they told me I was just going to have to deal with it and thats how the tanks are designed, finally had to go talk to my salesman with the TSB and he made it happen.
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Good to know.. I would have checked my manual, but its in the glove box of my car which I don't have access to... at this point if we make it to 25 days I'm going to ask for a refund
Not a hard number to come by: http://www.ford.com/help/contact/
First one on the list.
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I don't have the manual in front of me I can get that later, but theres a bolt behind the latch under the black cover pry it off with a small screw driver. Theres two bolts under window switch panel just pry that off also, then theres two screws on the bottom of the door. Then the panel pulls straight off.
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I just had mine done, they had it for three days no broken parts, the replaced the headliner, washer in the half shafts, cruise control button and a few othere misc things. Im not mad I got a loaner that I put 800 miles on. For how busy our dealer is it was pretty good turn around time I think, It will help when they get there no shop open that has 16 bays just for light duty diesels. I have close to 20,000 miles on my fusion already no major complaints every issue ive asked about my dealer has taken care of me.
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I just put dynomat on all my door panels last week and it made a pretty good improvement, I just have the basic sound system, no more door rattles from those white clips that hold the panels on.
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Placed an order with him on Friday, he said
"Thanks for ordering our new LED Puddle Lights designed for the 2013 Ford Fusion. We have had a huge rush of Fusion pud orders since announcing the new product last Wednesday. It's amazing how word gets out.
With all of these new Fusion orders, we are running about a 7-10 day backlog on orders. Your lights are scheduled to be produced and ready to ship next Thursday, but could be Friday. Feel free to contact me for an update, but you will be notified when they ship, along with a tracking number. Sorry for the unexpected delay, but I'm sure you will soon agree that they will be worth the wait" -
The metal clips that hold the door panel rattle on mine, haven't had a chance to take in though.
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I just ordered mine today. I don't mind the price it will pay for itself, when doing repairs.
Ramsey
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Mine does that also, I would imagine it just takes a second for the oil or fuel pressure to get the proper level before it starts.
Ramsey
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The only thing a wrap is only going to last 3-4 years probably before it starts to fade, but then you always can change it up, or probably ready for a new car at that point.
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Interesting, I have yet to get a remote start so this is an option, $50 bucks a year is nothing really, I spend more than that one night at the bar lol.
Heres another thread from a different forum on it:
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I tested more on the way home from work, I saw 20psi peak again with lots of times around 18-19psi. So either the Torque app isn't reading the OBD2 data right or the 2.0l Ecoboost in the Fusion is tuned different than the Focus ST.
These gauges read off of MAP, so you have to calibrate it to zero with the key on/engine off. fyi
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Thanks for that, guess ill have to try alittle harder this weekend to remove it.
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Anyone try and remove the front door panels on there 2013 yet?
I removed the two bolts on the bottom, the two by the handle and the one up by the latch, but the door panel didn't seem to want to come off, idk if im missing a bolt or just didn't pull hard enough up on the panel.
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Under the car? Doesn't seem wise to me unless you used some heavy duty wire shield.
Have you ever looked under like an f150? to the wires that run to the tranny or the rear brake light ect.? There just regular 12ga or 10ga wire with wire loom around them? I work on electronics on Dozers, Draglines, Coal trucks, OB trucks, so my amp will fail long before the cable does, just make sure the cable does run on anything.
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I ran everything under the car, as for the remote just put an add-a-fuse in the fuse panel for the radio fuse.
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It's a fairly tight area, I can't see how you would get a pair of channel locks around the side of the filter. Mine was also on tight as hell, I used the "stab it with a screwdriver and mangle it to hell" method to get it off. I always do my own oil changes so I typically only have to get a stubborn oil filter off when I get a new car, which is very infrequent. That's the only reason I haven't gotten a oil filter wrench, doesn't seem worth it to me.
It is tight, but theres enough room in there to break the filter loose then it comes off easy, by hand. I can probably get a quarter of turn or alittle less using the channel locks I posed earlier,
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Here's the wrench I used on my fusion: http://www.amazon.com/Channellock-209-9-Inch-Filter-Plier/dp/B0009WG5SU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1361983231&sr=8-4&keywords=filter+wrench
I tried a cap the first time and it just slipped, used the channel lock and came off with little effert.
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I hit 6,500 miles and my mileage was doing better averaging around 29, until a couple days with temps no higher then -10 and a head wind. Outside temp, seems to affect my mileage more then anything.
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Is there any adapter that would not use the bluetooth and thus drain the battery if left plugged in, ei some type of hard line from the fusion's port to your phone?
Ya you can get one with USB instead of bluetooth there on Amazon also, but Ive left my bluetooth one plugged in and haven't had any battery drain issues. But not all phones support USB Host, other option would be to get a scan gauge.
My boost numbers seem off when using the torque program but I haven't had much time to mess with it.
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I have been told by mechanics that going full synthetic early on is not good if it is not a requirement from the manufacturer. You want to wear in the engine a little before going full synthetic. Its just too slick. I'm doing the blend for the first 20K or so, then going full synthetic. Just my $.02
Ya you are right its just the matter of opinion, ive built my share of engine's for Mod cars, snowmobiles ect. my theory is as long as it has/has a good quality oil there should be no issues, in the end it comes down to your luck really.
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I have the 1.6 I did my first oil change at 1,800 miles I went to full synthetic, I'll do my next oil change when I hit 6k next week. Then after that I'll change it when the oil life tells me to change it.
Battery issues in '13 Fusion?
in Fusion Forum
Posted
Mine has been completely dead once also. I left in the heated garage for 4 days and it was dead when I got back. I brought it into the dealer, they checked everthing as far as the charging system is concerned and found nothing. Ive left it sit mutiple days since and it hasn't done it again.