dlwharleyman
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Posts posted by dlwharleyman
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I was working on the A/C system for a 2007 Escape Hybrid AWD with the 2.3L engine. In the engine power center there is an A/C clutch relay and next to it is a A/C clutch diode. The p/n is F5TZ-14A604-A, sku F5TZ14A604A-CB. I did a continuity check in the both directions and there was no continuity. Assuming it was bad, I ordered another one, which also has no continuity right out of the box. All other one way diodes I've dealt with have continuity in one direction. Am I missing something here on it's functionality? Couldn't find any specs for this part.
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Solved. It is the vent pipe between the two steering arm boots. A guy on one of the Taurus forums identified it for me.
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Working on a 2000 3.0 V6 for an elderly couple on a limited income. I removed the upper intake plenum to access the back plugs and to check and clean the fuel injectors. I was in my pit at the back of the engine, when I noticed this metal line that is about 24" long and 3/8 diameter. Can't seem to find where it goes and what it's for. Any ideas?
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YT90SC - Thank you for your response. I'll go back and check the things you mentioned and let you know what I find.
For clarification, incase I'm missing something here, you reffered to the right side shaft with the black plastic protector as an enternal shaft. Online, it seems that the shaft that is between the right CV axle and the PTU is referred to as the intermediate shaft. What ever the correct name is, I understand that the shaft passes throught the PTU into the transmission.
On the truning of the wheels, when off the ground with the engine running and in drive, three of the wheels spin good at idle and I cannot stop any of them them with my hand due to the drive torque on the wheels. But the front RH wheel either doesn't turn or turns sporadically. This is when I noticed the black protector spinning, but not the exterior shaft coming out of the PTU. Seems all four tires should spin at the same rate and drive torque.
I had thought about something being loose so I'll check it. The one thing though, is that if something is loose, it would seem that it should make the noise when coming to a stop either in drive or neutral.
I will definitially go back and check the brake calipers and pads. I momentarily saw a Service Brakes message on the difital screen the other day. I will also check the ABS with the ABS function on my scanner.
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P.S. With the vehicle off the ground, I had the engine running and the transmission in Drive. I noticed that the right side intermediate axle shaft (going into the PTU) is not turning. The black plastic seal cover (going into the PTU) is turning, but not the axle.
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Have looked at many posts on many forums, including TSB's, but have not found a definitive answer. Note, I have replaced both struts, both wheel hubs, both CV shafts and both sway bar links. When starting to move forward or in reverse, I feel a slight clunk like a loose U-joint. When initially accelerating from a stop, or when slowing down just before I stop, I hear lound clunk or knock from the frount. When slowing to a stop in neutral, I do not hear the clunk. Had vehicle in the air with engine running at idle, and transmisson in drive, noticed that three tires were spinning, but front right passanger tire was moving sporadically and could stop it with my hand. With vehicle off the ground, engine off and trans in neutral, if I slightly move front tires back and forth, I hear a knock. With a stethascope, sound appears to be in transmission. No rattle or odd noise from PTU. No sounds from rear differential when moving tires.
A/C clutch Diode specs & continuity?
in Escape & Kuga Forum
Posted
Thank you for the help. I finally found the diode function on my fairly new multimeter (liked my old one better). I tested it and got a reading of .595v to .600v in the forward direction which matches the symbol on the top of the diode.