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Showing results for tags 'electrical'.
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So I’m very stumped, I bought a 2001 f250 7.3, xl extended cab. Has ts 6 tuner, automatic, intake, pillar gauges, 5” exhaust. It was raining one day and the truck was trying to turn over in the driveway with no one/no key in it. Deemed to be the windshield leak onto the bcm/GEM on the back of the fuse panel and would run the starter as soon as the batteries were connected to it, so I swapped it out with one out of a 01 f450 and the truck starts and runs now no weird issues besides I no longer have turn signals and I checked the fuses and replaced the turn signal relay under the radio. Then I drove it one day around the house to get it out and moving and at 40-50 mph I had a weird bang noise then seconds later the wheels skidded and the truck wouldn’t move. Shut it off and turned it back on and it was fine besides making a slight tick/clack sound when driving. I’m not sure what to do or where to even start looking to fix it. Any help will be greatly appreciated
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- wheel lock
- electrical
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Hello All, I have a 2013 Fusion se. 1.6 ecoboost I have a lighting issue that I think is either a fuse or wiring: The tail-lights that are actually on the trunk do not work at all on either side, the part that are attached to the body do work on both sides. The trunk/cargo light inside the trunk is not working. The 3rd brake light (or upper light, on top of the rear window) is not working either. Has anyone heard of this issue and if it is related to a specific fuse or wiring problem? Thanks Edit: Just found out that the S and SE models may not have actual working lights that were attached to the trunk
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- electrical
- lighting
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Got a 83 crown vic. with the stock 302 motor. I have rebuilt the front and top of this motor. and replaced the following parts - Alternator, Starter, Starter Solenoid, Battery, Coil, Voltage Regulator, Ignition Control Module, Ignition Switch, Distributor(rotor bug, and cap), wires, plugs, Fuses, Link-able Fuses. My problem is this. When the alternator is installed in the order the old one came off (and according to a ford wiring diagram for the 302 motor. Positive to red, Field to white, Stator to black, And a ground.) All are labeled on the alternator so its hard to mix them up..., The amp light on the dash stays on, The starter solenoid usually sticks, causing the starter to run constant. (you have to slap the solenoid to get it to dis-engage) Also it is not charging the battery correctly, runs like it's misfiring or in the wrong firing order. If you disconnect a battery cable or both, the alternator runs the car but the windshield wipers come on full speed. (i pulled the fuse for the wipers and it still has the same problems, except the wipers are non operational when there is no fuse) The car ran O.K. for a few years now, until i was delivering pizza's and the cluster of wiring to the solenoid caught fire. i cut the wires and crimped new ends on them also cutting out any visible shorts/breaks in the wires i could see. And then replaced all electrical parts (listed above in red). There are about 10 wires that connect to the solenoid. 2 yellow, 4 red, 2 orange, 1 white going to the voltage reg; and then the big starter cable and pos. batt. cable. The cluster of wires is mostly for lights inside and out of the car. along with any other electrical equipment the driver may use. When i ran a hot wire from the pos. battery post to the field (white post) on the alternator the amp light turns off inside the dashboard and the car runs like its brand new (i know this is bad, so i do not run it like this). the starter solenoid does not stick and the starter shuts off when the motor fires like it should...I have ran a voltmeter and cannot find anything that would cause this problem... Does anyone have any suggestions? am i missing a key electrical component that may have shorted out when the wiring at the solenoid caught fire? If you think you have an answer I'm willing to try anything, if whatever it is can be bypassed or rigged to work i wouldn't care. I just need this car until i find the right one to put this 5.0 in... any help is appreciated. thank you.
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Hello, Maybe someone out here can be of help. I have a 2004 Ford Freestar 96K miles. The PCM failed (it had already been replaced) and was under warranty. No PCMs available and it is on backorder. Apparently there are 4000 on back-order. Maybe this is an indication that there is a problem wtih this particular part. Is anyone experiencing similar issues? Has anyone had any luck with a "refurbished" or pulled out of junkyard PCM? The dealer and FORD are refusing to provide any help on a rental car, etc since the automobile is out of warranty. Any ideas?