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Found 2 results

  1. Installed the Illuminated Door Sill Panels from Ford Accessories today. Total install time was just over an hour. Standard disclaimer - I'm not responsible for whatever you do to your car as a result of these instructions Ford's instructions are pretty good, but there are a couple places where I differed from them. Most notably, I used squeeze connectors from Radio Shack instead of soldering the wires. These are much easier (IMO) and at $2.50/pack you can't go wrong. Tools Needed: 10mm socket/wrench, pliers, razor knife, plastic putty knife, splice connectors (see pic below, for 18-22 gauge wire), zip ties (included) Splice Connectors: The steps below correspond to the steps in the Ford instructions. Changes I made are in bold with an asterisk * 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. I'd like to meet the SOB at Ford that decided to bury this under the cowl, but it is what it is. You want to do this any time you're working with electronics, and there's so many airbags in this car I just feel safer. 2-5. Start pulling panels as shown in instruction manual. They come up pretty easily and the clips are pretty well spaced. In step 5 you'll have to give the Xmas tree peg at the base of that panel a pretty good tug *6*. I didn't remove the A pillar completely. Just pull it straight out (towards the steering wheel) and let it sit there. You'll see why later. 7-10. Repeat on passenger side. Note that you don't need to remove the passenger side A-pillar Completed passenger side disassembly: 11. Be very careful here. Remove the overhead panel. The corner clips that it warns you about are incredibly fragile, especially in the back. I'll probably end up having to put some glue in there because I think I broke a tiny piece of one. This is the hardest panel to remove - what I ended up doing was getting the front loose first and then slowly working my way back but I couldn't seem to avoid a big tug that finally got it free Try not to separate the two pieces like I did here: 12. Remove the main harness connector. This is what you'll be connecting to. I also removed the secondary connector on the side to completely remove the panel and set it aside 13. The cable runs to the left edge of the headlinerpanel and loops back to the center, glued the whole way. Just work your finger under it and eventually it will come up so you can fish it back behind the headliner. 14. You're going to want to cut the black wrap back as far as you can 15/16. There are two gray-violet wires. Make sure you get the one that's in the position marked in the guide. This is where I used the squeeze connectors. There are two channels in them. One goes all the way through, so this is the one that you slip over the wire in the car. The second only goes part way, so run the wire from the sill kit into this end. Make sure both wires are centered in their channels, then squeeze the connector shut with your pliers. Both wires should be in place. Once I tested them I wrapped them in electrical tape. The second wire from the bottom (the gray/violet one between the violet and yellow-green) is the one you want to connect the red lead to, the black wire is on the top (black to black): Both wires connected: Connect the negative battery cable here and test to make sure the lights go on. Then, you can fish the harness back into place, reconnect it (after disconnecting the negative battery cable again), and put the overhead panel back into place 19. I just ran the wire down the inside of the A-pillar. There's no need to zip tie it in and this saves you from struggling to get the pegs on the A-pillar out (they're stubborn). You'll have to force the wire in between the weather stripping and the base of the A-pillar with the plastic putty knife. Wire run so far: As soon as you run wires through a point, you can start putting panels back in as directed in the instructions 21. I had to pull off the center console trim pieces on both sides to fish the wire through. For zip ties, make sure you run them around the steel frame behind the knee airbag, not the airbag itself. Zip tie location (cut the excess off): 22. I pulled a carpet peg out near the door and ran the light cable through there, then used the same peg to anchor it back in place. Final cable run on driver side: Now you're just replacing panels. As you replace them, they tend to go over the weatherstripping. I use a plastic putty knife to fix the weather stripping and force it back over the panels where it belongs. I'll post more pictures of the final result later once I get a chance to go out at night
  2. Bla123Bla123

    Ford Edge Door Handle Details?

    I am currently a college student and for our Machine Elements class, we have a finite element analysis project. Essentially, we are supposed to create, or find, a 3D model of a door handle on our current car (we will be providing a picture of our door handle to prove it is our car) and determine the material and run a computer analysis determining the stressed incurred when somebody tries to open the door. I have a 2007 Ford Edge, but I believe that many, if not all, of the Ford Edge model years so far have the same handle. So now comes to my real questions, does anybody have anything I could use? Any information regarding 3D model files you may have (preferably Solidworks files), what the interior mechanisms used to connect the door handle are, the material the handle is made out of, or dimensions of the handle (so that if I must model the handle myself, I can do something more accurate than guesstimating, since the rounded parts of the door handle are very difficult to measure and model accurately, especially without taking the door apart)? Literally any information you can provide about the door handle will help. Thanks!
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