Buzzforbrains
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Posts posted by Buzzforbrains
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The Lincoln LS and Aviator cooled seats cooled both the seat and seat back. When and why did they change it?
Not sure it it was, different vehicle.
http://www.fordvehicles.com/suvs/expedition/features/#page=Feature13
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Costco has these blades for $7.99 under the Goodyear label. Work great.
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It's designed that way. Only cools the bottom.
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Why remove it? I believe it's law in all states to have both plates on.
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Thanks for all of the replies. That's exactly what I was hoping to hear. I'll keep checking, but there have been zero KR Expys at any of the nearby dealers for a while now. I still want to see it in person, but it's good to have other opionions since the one dealership I talked to did everything they could to push me away from the KR. They probably just wanted me to get one of the limited Expys on the lot.
Of course, they want a quick sell.
If you like the color of the King Ranch leather, get it. It's very nice and such a high quality leather, it can't really be compared to the other leather in the Ford line. I keep my car clean, so when I had mine, while cleaning the inside, a warm damp rag wipe down and conditioning only took 10 minutes tops.
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Here is a thread where Ice-capades put out the Rapid Specs on the Expedition. You can look at that and see what additions are added to the King Ranch, compared to the Limited.
So here is the link
The King Ranch leather is high maintenance. For it too look good it takes a wiping down and conditioning once a month or so. It is unfinished thick leather. It would be near impossible to wear through this leather, although if not conditioned, it can dry out as any uncoated leather would. The leather in the EB and Limited is a thin vinyl coated leather. It doesn't wear well as the coating is not strong and will start to show signs of wear in a year or so. Also, on the driver and passernger seat, only the seat bottom and back are leather, on the second row, only the inner squares of the seat and back are leather, and none of the third row is leather. On the KR, the entire first and second row are all leather. I think the third row might be as well. I would go for the King Ranch.
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Received a call from the dealer and the news was that the claim was rejected again, on basis that the metal was not perforated, and that the warranty conditions exclude these type of defects.
This confirms my concern that Ford is rejecting responsibility for type of issues where the cause is a failed manufacturing process. I was expecting bumper to bumper warranty from Ford when buying this vehicle.... I have no doubt that the current saving mode has lead to less good will cases, but in the end it raises the question if excluding these defects from Warranty is a responsible dealing of Ford. If a first time customer of Ford would be faced with this; he/she would probably not buy again from Ford, and with that create a lot of negative promotion for Ford in his/her environment.
In any case I'm really glad that I have a supportive & professional dealer (Al Tayer in Dubai) supporting me. They are standing behind the products they sell, and are going to repair the vehicle out of good will :-). And because this dealer saved me, I be looking to purchase a F150 from them this year, or next year :-)
Thanks again for your responses and support!
Ewald
This is a common problems on Fords. I urge you to look at your roof as well. Contaminants get into the paint during the spraying process then rust and cause the paint to peel and bubble. Small spots can be fixed by removing the paint and using touch up primer, base and clear coat.
I am glad the dealer is helping you out.
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Even though it's an 08, the information applies.
FORD:[/align]
2000-2007 Crown Victoria, Taurus
2005-2006 Ford GT
2005-2007 Mustang
2000-2003 Ranger
2000-2007 Expedition
2002-2007 Explorer
2004-2007 F-150
2007 Explorer Sport Trac
LINCOLN:[/align]
2000-2006 Lincoln LS
2000-2007 Town Car, Navigator
MERCURY:[/align]
2000-2007 Grand Marquis, Sable
This article supersedes TSB 04-25-1 to update the vehicle model years.
ISSUE:[/u]
Some vehicles may exhibit a bubbling or blistering under the paint on aluminum body parts. This is due to iron contamination of the aluminum panel.
ACTION:[/u]
This TSB provides service tips and procedures, outlining methods to properly prepare and protect aluminum body parts from cross contamination.
BACKGROUND
Ford's Scientific Research Laboratory has performed a number of tests on vehicle body parts returned for corrosion related concerns. Testing has revealed that the aluminum corrosion was caused by iron particles working their way into the aluminum body part, prior to it being painted.
SERVICE TIPS AND PROCEDURE
When repairing a vehicle for corrosion or collision damage, it is essential that extreme care be taken to cover and protect all aluminum parts to prevent cross metal contamination. Areas in a shop where metal work is performed should be sectioned off, using at the very least curtain walls, to prevent metal dust migration. Cross contamination can also occur through the use of metal working tools (hammers, dolly's, picks, grinding wheels, etc.). Tools used for aluminum repairs should be kept separate, and not used to repair other metals. Wire brushes used on aluminum should be made of stainless steel.
NOTE:
THIS PROCEDURE SHOULD ONLY BE USED ON NON-PERFORATED METAL. REVIEW WARRANTY AND POLICY MANUAL FOR VEHICLE WITH PERFORATED METAL.
NOTE:
READ THIS PROCEDURE COMPLETELY BEFORE PERFORMING ANY SERVICE.
[ol][*]Corrosion should be removed by blasting. Use an aggressive blasting material, such as acrylic (salt grain size).[*]Use a DA sander with 180 grit paper backed abrasive. Only sand and featheredge the damaged area.[*]Mix and apply Ford approved epoxy primer, per the manufacturer's label instructions. Bake at 140° F (60° C), or use an infra-red lamp for curing.[*]If necessary, mix and apply two-part polyester filler to a slight over crown. Allow polyester filler to cure 20-30 minutes, or mix and apply spray polyester filler two-three (2-3) coats as necessary. Allow to cure per manufacturer's label instructions.[*]Hand-sand the repair area with 80 grit sand paper to remove excess filler.[*]Finish-sand the repair area with 400 grit sand paper.[*]Mix and apply Ford approved primer/surfacer per manufacturer's label instructions. Bake at 140° F (60° C) or use infra-red lamp for curing.[*]Sand the primer/surfacer with 400-600 grit to level the surface.[*]The next two steps are wet-on-wet. Mix and apply to hiding Ford recommended basecoat material per manufacturer's label instructions. Allow to flash.[*]Mix and apply two (2) coats (2 mils minimum) of Ford approved clearcoat per manufacturer's label instructions. Allow flash time. Finish bake at 140° F (60° C). [/ol]
WARRANTY STATUS:
Information Only
This is a common problem with Fords.
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Just got a 2010 Limited 4x2 in Tuxedo Black w/301A package. Love it. Came out of an 07 EB and an 04 EB before that. Sync is great.
I would ask in the employee section about the changes in the 2011.
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my expy is out of warranty will the dealer do this TSP free of charge?
No. TSB's are basically Cliff Notes for dealers to fix odd problems. It's not like a recall. Now it sucks because most TSB's are for design flaws and SHOULD be fixed for free if you are out of warranty, but sadly, they are not.
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Found this, don't know if it is any good Ford Services Manuals on DVD & CD.
Prices are a bit steep.
Got CD's & Ford's manuals for my Capri & Escort on Yahoo & Ebay auctions, never would have been able to find them in the past without the internet..
Another link for basic Expedition pdf guides which you may already have or find useful.
The dealers usually sell them after the new ones are out. 2010 is new still. Not much has changed. They will show up on ebay eventually.
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Interesting... I got the same problem with my 2008 Expedition with 25k miles on it, but only when the transmission is not at operating temperature yet. Mind you, In the UAE where I live, it does not get colder than 60F, and highest is at about 120F.... When I drive to work in the morning, the first 5 minutes I have the "bump in the back" too. But in addition, when cold, I have during the shift from 1 to 2 a split second that the engine revs jump up from 1500rpm to 2000rpm (like it moves into neutral before shifting to 2nd gear) and than shifts slowly into the 2nd gear, and the the revs reduce to 1500rpm again., After a few miles all goes to normal.
Is this a known problem that can be fixed easily, or should I be worried? I have less than a year warranty left....Hope this is just an electronic issue that can be fixed easily...... I had no problems at all with this truck, and love the ride; but the symptom worries me....
I love the Expedition, and I'm very loyal to Ford for many years. I'm realy happy that Ford Company recovers so well!. Own 3 Ford vehicles right now. :-) (Mercury Mariner 2008, Ford Focus 2007 5 door Euro model (super!) and the 2008 Expedition)... and plan for an 2011 or 2012 Expedition :-)
Thanks
Ewald
Take it in. As the above TSB states, the TCM needs to be reflashed. Not hard for the dealer to do.
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That might be it. Would the overdrive friction plates be considered part of the drive train? My bumper to bumper has already expired. I took the vehicle in for this issue three times while under warranty and they couldn't find an issue.
That does sound like it could be the problem though. I'm going to call the dealership tomorrow to see what they think about it. Thank you very much for the info! I'll post the results of my visit to the dealer.
Yes, Drivetrain is engine transmission and axles. You have to be able to reproduce the noise. When you can reliably do this, take it in and have them ride with you.
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I'm curious to know what changes are in store for the 2011 Expedition as well. Can anyone provided any insight?
Thanks,
Eric
I don't think there will be body changes. I would post this in the employee forum for a better response.
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I have had a noise that sounds completely out of place coming from the underside of my vehicle for quite some time. I've had it in to the dealer three times for service and twice for ride-alongs to regarding the issue and they always list it as unable to reproduce/performing to manufacturer spec. I think I read another thread with a similar problem on this or another Ford forum, but I am unable to find it.
Basically, the noise sounds like a grind or crunch when I let my foot off the accelerator to slow down and then accelerate again without the transmission downshifting. Examples of this occurring are on a highway merge ramp if I let off the gas while waiting for a safe spot to merge and then give it gas to enter the flow of traffic. Another example is going around a slight corner. If I let off the gas to reduce speed slightly and then accelerate out of the turn, it makes the noise when I hit the gas. This is very noticeable when i DO NOT push the pedal to the floor, but simply accelerate normally. This does not occur if I come to a complete stop like at a stop sign or any other situation where I slow down enough for a downshift to occur. This only occurs when the vehicle is in motion.
The noise is noticeable to passengers, as well as myself when I am driving.
I am currently out of the bumper to bumper warranty period, but still in the drive train warranty period, but barely. I'd like to find someone with a good idea of what this might be so I can point my delaer in the right direction instead of simply saying it is making a noise. Documentation like a TSB would be extremely helpful, but just a solid idea of what it might b would be more helpful than what I am able to tell them.
The best description I can think of is a bad universal joint I had on an old Ranger. That was more of a clunk than the noise I'm hearing in my expedition, but the timing after acceleration seems to be about the same. The noise I am hearing sounds more like metal rubbing on metal as opposed to metal striking metal.
Hopefully, someone can provide some ideas based on the limited information I can provide. They have flashed the various components to the latest versions, but there was no resolution there. If any other information would prove beneficial to determining what this noise might be, please don't hesitate to ask. Thank you.
Read this and let me know if this sounds like it may apply.
TSB 09-6-1
04/06/09
6R75 TRANSMISSION - SQUAWK NOISE DURING
POWER/FORCED DOWNSHIFT
FORD:
2007-2008 Expedition
This article supersedes TSB 08-19-8 to update the vehicle model years and remove the production fix date.
ISSUE
Some 2007-2008 Expedition vehicles equipped with a 6R75 transmission may exhibit a squawk type noise during hard acceleration down shifts (4-3), (5-3) and (6-3) downshifts. The noise is produced during the release of the overdrive clutch.
ACTION
Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
Follow Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 307-01B to replace the overdrive friction plates.
WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage
IMPORTANT : Warranty coverage limits/policies are not altered by a TSB. Warranty coverage limits are determined by the identified causal part.
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Just had the TSB fixed yesterday 08-9-8 so far so good. Plus they repaired my window that was not working. Cable came apart.
TSB 08-9-8
05/12/08
WHISTLE NOISE FROM THE HEATER/AIR
CONDITIONING WHILE CHANGING TEMPERATURE
SETTING - BUILT ON OR BEFORE 12/4/2007
FORD:
2007-2008 Expedition
LINCOLN:
2007-2008 Navigator
ISSUE
Some 2007-2008 Expedition and Navigator vehicles built before 12/4/2007 may exhibit a whistle noise from the heater/air conditioning while changing temperature setting.
ACTION
Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
Confirm customer symptom by cycling the temperature door as follows:
Manual System:
1. Set blower motor speed to number 2.
2. Set mode to PNL/FLR mode (most noticeable). Whistle may be audible in Vent or DEF/FLR but to a lesser extent.
3. Set the temperature knob all the way to full hot.
4. Start backing off full hot incrementally while listening for whistles. Whistle should be audible when the knob position is roughly between 5/8 and 3/4 position.
Dual Air Temperature Control (DATC) System:
1. Manually set the blower motor speed to medium or medium high.
2. Manually set mode to PNL/FLR (most noticeable). May be audible in Vent and DEF/FLR.
3. Set the temperature set point to highest temperature 90 °F (32 °C).
4. Start reducing the temperature set point incrementally while listening for whistles. Since the blend door position is dictated by several inputs like in-car temp sensor, ambient temp sensor, and sun load sensor. The whistle can be anywhere in the range except full cold.
If the whistle noise is present during the conditions above, replace the evaporator assembly. If the noise is not present during these conditions, refer to workshop manual diagnostics.
WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage
IMPORTANT : Warranty coverage limits/policies are not altered by a TSB. Warranty coverage limits are determined by the identified causal part.
Parts Block
OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
080908A 2007-2008 Expedition, 4.6 Hrs.
Navigator Built Before
12/04/07: Replace The
Evaporator Assembly,
Includes Time To Evacuate
And Charge System,
Remove And Install
Console, Instrument Panel,
Steering Column (Do Not
Use With 19700A,
19700A15, 19680A,
04320A, 04320B, 3514A,
04536A, 04536B, 18476A)
DEALER CODING
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When I slow down in my Expedition (in 2WD) and I get down to about 5-10 MPH and let off the brake I feel a bump. Almost like a car behind me just tapped me on the rear bumper. It does not do it all the time but about half the time. Any ideas what it might be? I have about 26K on the ODO.
Take it to the dealer, print this out and show them this TSB. Mine had it bad. It will get worse. This procedure fixed it.
TSB 08-22-7
11/10/08
DRIVELINE BUMP WHILE BRAKING - BELOW 10 MPH (16 KM/H)
FORD:
2007-2008 Expedition
This article supersedes TSB 08-4-13 to update the Issue, Service Procedure and remove the production fix date.
ISSUE
Some 2007-2008 Expedition vehicles may exhibit a bump feeling while braking to a stop below 10 MPH (16 Km/h). This procedure will improve the bump felt while braking to a stop.
ACTION
Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
CAUTION APPLYING THIS PROCEDURE TO UNITS THAT DO NOT EXHIBIT THE COASTDOWN BUMP MAY RESULT IN WORSE SHIFT QUALITY.
NOTE DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REPLACE THE MECHATRONIC UNIT. MECHATRONIC REPAIR/REPLACEMENT IS NOT AUTHORIZED FOR THIS ISSUE.
1. Install Integrated Diagnostic System/Portable Diagnostic Software (IDS/PDS) or equivalent and ID the vehicle.
2. Update the Power Control Module/Transmission Control Module (PCM/TCM) calibration using IDS release 57.8 and higher or 58.1 and higher. This new calibration is not included in the VCM 2008.9 DVD. Calibration files may also be obtained at the website. Since the TCM cannot be independently reprogrammed, reprogram the PCM to ensure that engine and transmission calibrations are updated to the latest level simultaneously.
a. Verify that the TCM shows 8L1P-7J104-AC (8L1P-7J104-BC for 2008 vehicles built after 12/3/2007) part number after reprogramming is complete.
b. Select the following from IDS, Tool Box, Powertrain, OBD Test Modes, Mode Level 9 Vehicle info, TCM Cal Part Number.
3. Clear TCM keep alive memory (KAM) and adaptive tables.
a. Using IDS:
(1) Open Toolbox.
(2) Choose Powertrain.
(3) Choose Reset KAM.
(4) Then Choose TCM.
b. Using PDS:
(1) Choose all Tests and Calibrations.
(2) Scroll down the menu and choose reset TCM KAM.
NOTE FOR PDS, RESET TCM KAM IS NOT THE SAME AS CLEAR TRANSMISSION ADAPTIVE TABLES, WHICH IS UNDER THE POWERTRAIN - TRANSMISSION MENU TREE.
NOTE UNHOOKING THE BATTERY WILL NOT CLEAR THE TCM KAM.
NOTE DO NOT CLEAR THE PCM KAM.
4. Verify that the transmission fluid temperature (TFT) PID is above 175 °F (80 °C). If it is not at 175 °F (80 °C), drive unit approximately 3 miles (5 Km) to reach temperature.
NOTE TFT MUST BE AT 175 °F (80 °C) OR ABOVE BEFORE PROCEEDING TO STEP 5.
5. Drive unit to perform adaptive shift strategy learn:
a. Accelerate from rest with light throttle to 15 MPH (24 Km/h), remove foot from accelerator pedal.
b. Brake very gently to a complete stop (allow at least six (6) seconds).
c. Repeat Steps (a-B) a total of five (5) times in the dealership parking lot or similar setting.
d. Accelerate from rest with light throttle ensuring that the 1-2, 2-3 and 3-4 shifts occur at engine speeds between 1300-1800 RPM.
e. Continue to accelerate until you achieve 50 MPH (80 Km/h) or the 5-6 upshift.
f. Brake gently to a complete stop and hold foot on brake for at least 10 seconds.
g. Repeat steps (e-f) three (3) times.
NOTE THE HARSH BUMP FELT WHILE BRAKING TO A STOP WILL BE IMPROVED. HOWEVER, SEVERAL DAYS OF DRIVING ARE REQUIRED FOR THE TRANSMISSION TO FULLY ADAPT.
WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage IMPORTANT: Warranty coverage limits/policies are not altered by a TSB. Warranty coverage limits are determined by the identified causal part.
OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
082207A 2007-2008 Expedition: 1.0 Hr.
Check DTCs, Reprogram
The PCM And TCM,
Includes Time To Clear
KAM And Perform Road
Test. Authorization Decal
Not Required (Do Not Use
With 12650D)
DEALER CODING
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I have the Weathertech mats. I'm assuming they are the digital fit because they fit every contour and curve of the floor perfectly. They are very overpriced in my opinion but fit well and are fairly durable. I've had mine about 2.5 years and they still look good. Every now and then they need to be scrubbed with a brush but have held up well against gas, oil and even dog puke! They are easy to scratch but the scratches aren't too noticeable. I got a full set... front seat, back seat and rear shelf (area where third row seat folds down) for around $350. Again they are overpriced but the reason is because there is no real competition for Weathertech. By the way the mats are U.S. Made! I highly recommend these mats.
I can also vouch for the Weathertech digital cut. I have the second and third row models and like them. They are not super thick, but provide a lot of coverage and are easy to take out, scrub with simple green and put back. The Tan color does not match the picture on the websites though, it's a bit darker.
I went with the Kraco all weather rubber mats for the front. $14.99 each and they are heavy rubber with deep channels. I got the tan ones since I have the Camel interior.
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Just had my 2007 Expy LTD (35,000) in the shop to have the tranny looked at for the second time. Last time they reflashed the tranny back in Feb 2009. Still have problems with down shifting and towing. Dealer say everything is in spec and that they dont show any additional updates to perform. Can anyone out there tell me if there is anything more current on tranny fixes..............
Whats the last TSB they performed? What is the symptom?
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2010 EL KR bought 10/27 with 7325 miles to date. 15.3 in the city. 15.9 on the highway (75MPH).
Much nicer vehicle than the 2000 Suburban it replaced except the leather seats in the Suburban fit me so well after 9 years!
The ride is much improved. The wife works on laptop while traveling (on pure sine-wave power inverter). She says that the computer doesn't bump around on her lap now.
Power running boards make it easier for passengers to load and unload.
A friend of mine says I should add the K&N intake (he has one on his F-150) for an extra couple of tenths mileage. I don't know.
No issues!
Don't waste money on the K and N intake. You won't notice anything power or gas mileage wise. You could get a washable dry filter though.
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My current fleet consists of a 1998 Explorer XLT, 2002 7.3 Excursion XLT and 2007 Tahoe Z71. I like the Tahoe, it is good design and nice riding vehicle, but GM overall quality really sucks. Lots and lots of annoying little issues that I never had with any of my 5 Ford SUVs.
I have not driven a current Expedition yet. I chose the 07 Tahoe over the 07 Expedition last time around primarily because of the lack of available positraction and the fact that my Fisher Homesteader plow (which has resided on the Explorer for 5 years) could not be put on the Expedition (or a new Explorer) because of the ultra light duty front suspension.
I will make it a point to drive one.
I agree. The F150 and Expy of 97-2000 or so were heavy duty in comparison to the ones of today. Thinner metal, cheaper feel, etc. Cost savings at it's best.
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Below is from the order guide
Free Standing Packages & Options (FSO)
Navigation (Req. Rear Seat DVD) 58F
Rear Seat DVD 91V
Order it without, have the dealer install it seperatley. I don't know why Ford is forcing people to do this. Not good.
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Thanks for the information
So I guess the Expedition has gone completely to the soccer mom side of things and us people who want to use them for "utility" purposes (as opposed to carrying kids around) are out in the cold.
You don't need the rear seat dvd in order to get Nav.
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I'm looking for feedback on replacement wipers...
I've got trico neoform beam blades on my other vehicle and they are really, really good but before I get another set, I wanted to see what everybody had to say - good or bad - about other wiper blade options for the Navigator. I figure better safe than sorry...
Anyone? Bueller?? Bueller???
:stats:
I got the standard Anco blade and it stinks. Chatters like crazy. I would have put back OEM if I had known.
2011 Expedition
in Expedition Forum
Posted
No More Edddie Bauer.