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  1. I am asking if the grille and bumper cover from the 2010 MKT will fit on the 2012 MKZ
  2. Need a new grille and bumper cover on a 2012 MKZ. Know that most parts from 2010, or 2011 MKZ can be used on a 2012 MKZ. Looking at the front grille and bumper on a 2010 MKT see that they appear to be the same. Are they interchangeable?
  3. Have 2 severely damaged front seats in a 2012 MKZ. What detailed steps can I take to remove the driver and passenger seats from a salvaged car which has no battery power and therefore the seats cannot be moved on the seat track. How many electrical connectors are there to be removed? I believe the heated/cooled seats have multiple connectors. What tools do I need to remove the seats (sockets, Torx wrench, rust remover, etc). Am looking at seats from a 2010 MKZ which I believe are the same as a 2012 MKZ.
  4. Parking brake locked with multiple icons on dash 2016 Fusion Titanium with 5k miles started with Brake system light, as well as Traction Control and ABS lights. Rear electric Parking Brake motors locked and vehicle would not move forward or reverse when transmission was in gear. Researched Electrical Rear Parking Brake procedure and got the car in Maintenance Mode. Still have 4 or 5 illuminated Icons but rear brake motors released so can can move in gear. Checked for codes at OBD port and found none. All normal monitors set but no stored codes. Comes out of Maintenance Mode but still shows dash warning lights and still locks up. What is causing this warning? Regular brakes seem to be functioning properly. I usually do not ever activate the parking brake and it was not turned on at the last time the car was shut off.. What could be causing this? Can I safely drive the car with the Brake, Traction Control, and ABS warning Icons on the dash?
  5. Had the oil filler cap off and a funnel in the filler hole and started the car. Heard and saw small droplets of oil spitting out of the filler hole. First time I ever saw this on any car. Engine is an I4 2.0L turbo. Also seemed to have positive air pressure coming out the oil filler hole. What gives?
  6. Exhaust leaking at flange from Y pipe to rear converter with new gasket Replaced entire exhaust from rear converter, resonator pipe, short curved extension pipe, and muffler on a 2005 wagon with Duratec DOHC engine. Used all Walker parts including a new metal gasket at the flange from the Y pipe (the front 2 converters going to the exhaust manifolds). Walker diagram called for a 31616 metal gasket at the flange and I dug out the old one from the Y pipe flange. Besides this gasket a lot of small curved pieces looking like a disintegrated gasket came out of the round groove in the Y pipe flange. The flange on the OEM connection to the rear converter and the new exact fit Walker replacement is smooth with no groove in it. The old converter flange had 2 staked or threaded bolts or studs, and I had to saw one of them off as the nut had rusted to almost nothing. The new converter flange seemed to fit perfectly but it had 2 holes and no studs or bolts, so I procured 2 bolts, nuts and lockwashers and bolted the 2 flanges together tightly. Started the car and checked for exhaust leaks. The other 3 connections are sealed with 2 1/4" clamps and they appeared to not be leaking. Is there another gasket besides the one I put in that takes up the rest of the space in the groove on the Y pipe flange? How do you seal this connection?_
  7. Loose keyblade on Taurus X remote/key The keyblade (metal) in the plastic remote/transponder key has become loose. It twisted as the steering wheel was torque locked. I to start the car and get home. Opened the cover and used a visegrip to reseat the keyblade to the straight position. The remote/transponder portion was loose at the top end where the blade exits but seems to be glued into the plastic housing. Did not try to pry it out as I didn't want to wreck the key altogether. Can I pry out the remote/transponder packaged in the plastic that is partially unattached in my key? Can I then successfully reattach or make the keyblade solid with epoxy or other means? See aftermarket remote/transponder SHELLS which contain a keyblade but not the remote or transponder chips. If I get one of these how do I successfully transfer the remote/transponder electronics from my existing key?
  8. 2002 Duratec. Replaced UIM and LIM gaskets and some deteriorated hoses. In doing so had to remove fuel rail and injectors. Pulled spark plugs with only about 15K and regapped them to .054. Used dielectric grease on plug wires at plugs and coil. Snapped all wires back onto connections. Cleaned throttle body with choke/carb cleaner. Replaced EGR valve gaskets. Put everything back and checked plug wiring order. Started car. Stumbled due to no fuel at first and stopped. Recranked and started with foot on the accelerator. Now it ran but sounded very rough. Had to keep throttle way down to keep it running. It got up to 2500 RPM but sounded like it wasn't firing on all cylinders. ran like this for about 20 to 30 seconds and when I took my foot off of the accelerator it quit running. Has a new fuel filter (6 months ago) and the PCV valve was replaced about a year ago. Seems like it isn't firing on 2 or more plugs. Know that I snapped all electrical connectors onto the fuel injectors till they clicked and bottomed. I thought it might just be fuel wasn't getting to the injectors but after 30 seconds the fuel should be pumping to all injectors. What now. Plugs not firing? Injectors not firing? What else? What would you check next?
  9. Been researching used engines and found some around $300-$800 for VIN S Duratec 24 V for a 2001-2003 Taurus. Also found them for Sables. Are they the same or are some parts different and would a Sable Duratec drop in and have everything bolt on correctly? Some vendors recomment replacing the water pump, timing belt(s) and front and rear main seals. Is this really necessary? BIGHANK
  10. ***********************************UPDATE ************************************* Drained oil and removed filter, replaced filter and added 1 quart of type F transmission fluid and 1 pint of Gunk ValveMedic Oil Detergent plus new oil to add up to 5 quarts. Cranked engine till it turned over and finally started. This took over an hour and required jumping battery from another vehicle as battery had run down trying to crank the engine. When engine finally started could rear a very loud metallic tapping noise (rod or valve lifter?) which increased in loudness with engine rpm. Ran at 1500 to 2000 rpm for 15 to 20 minutes to warm up engine to normal operating temperature to let new oil with detergent and transmission fluid work its way to all lubricated parts and to recharge depleted battery. Outside temp today was about 56 degrees and after about 10 minutes tried heater and it produced hot air from heater outlets. Was hesitant to remove foot from accelerator as I thought that the engine would die if left at idle but finally reduced pressure on accelerator and let warmed up emgine idle (approximately 600 rpm which was about where engine normally idled). Put car in gear and it was able to move forward and backward so transmission still works. No check engine light or other warning lights on dash but at idle tapping noise still present but at a much reduced noise level. Hesitant to try driving to any place where I could further diagnose or repair the engine as I don't want to have it stop and sieze up like it did the other day. Should I have this engine torn down and rebuilt or replace it? What is a reasonable price for a used or rebuilt engine? What is a reasonable price for labor to either A). rebuild it? or B.) to drop another engine into this car? BIGHANK
  11. Car was run with insufficient oil and started knocking. Engine has approx 129,000 miles. Has had synthetic 5W20 for years. Not slugged up. After adding more new synthetic oil and a valve lubricant engine continued knocking. Driving at about 40 MPH engine stopped and check engine light came on. Would not even turn over therefore I'm saying it siezed up. Temps here in the 20s to 40s so not from excessive heat. When it was towed home tried starting after engine had been off for 2 hours. Did crank slightly but stopped in 1 second. Was planning on draining oil and changing filter adding new oil and maybe some transmission fluid. What would you suggest BIGHANK
  12. 05 Mustang with build date 1/7/05 has Active Anti-theft and HAD Global Access (power window down with Key FOB) until dealer replaced defective wiper motor and Smart Junction Box (SJB). SJB water damaged (see TSB 07-14-06) and dealer replaced SJB. When car was delivered had DRLs (Datime Running Lights) on and no Global Access power windows. After a LONG TIME they were able to turn off the DRLs but Global Access does not work. Tech said he did the Inhale/Exhale procedure (after I told them about it). If this is true shouldn't the DRL bit have been OFF as this was a US car not a Canadian one and the ASBUILT data should have reflected this. Here is a excerpt from the Hotline Assistance Request they showed me: "according to ssm20128 the vehicle should not have this option to begin with according to build date". "there was an internal change to the sjb that will no lnger allow the feature to operate. Suggest contacting your zone office if further assistance is needed". What the heck is an SSM? particularily ssm20128. I believe the Global Access feature which was in the original SJB is SOFTWARE. Can this be RE-ENABLED? HOW? I worked with software for over 30 years and know a lot of things are possible. Can someone with technical knowledge please respond. BIGHANK