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Want to replace a thermostat on a 2012 MKZ with a 3.5 liter engine. Some sites show 2 gaskets required. Is that correct? Have replaced many thermostats in Ford, GM, and Chrysler vehicles and have never seen one requiring more than 1 gasket. If 2 are required where exactly do they go? Don't want to drain coolant and open up the thermostat housing and be short a gasket.

AC compressor either does not run or short cycles. Cause, defective AC evaperator thernistor sensor located deep inside plenum and requiring removal of entire dash. Alternative fix, a 20 cent 36K resistor in the 16 pin blue or green connector located right behind the glove box. Open the glove box and gently push in at the rear right and left sides of the box to allow the box to come forward into the passenger compartment. There may be a string preventing the box door from dropping down all the way. You can pull it and dislodge the string for better access to the connector behind the door. There are 2 connectors behind the glove box door. You want to work on the 16 pin blue or green one to the left. You need to get a resistor with a value of 36 K ohms (any value from 30 K to 40 K ohms will work) and place it in the connector. I first removed the plug and found it easier to work with. The pins to work with will be either pins 13 and 15, or 13 and 14. Pin 16 is on the top row all the way to the left. On my car I used pins 15 and 13, the second pin on the top row from the left and the fourth pin from the left. On my connector there was no wire in space for pin 14. On some other connectors you will find wires in pins 14 and 13. the third and forth pins from the left on the top row of the connector. I used a 36 K 1/4 watt resistor. Any wattage resistor will work as there is very little current going through it. Simply bend the wires on the resistor and place them in either pins 13 and 15 if there is no wire in space 14, or if a wire is in space 14 put the resistor in pins 13 and 14. Doing this will fool the PCM which controls the compressor clutch and will allow the compressor to run. Replacing the defective thermistor might cost close to a thousand dollars to remove the entire dash. Don't give your hard earned cash to the Stealership. Do it yourself in less than a half hour. Resistors can be located online or at a store selling electronic components.

I am mainly concerned about the transponder programming so the key can start the car. I was under the impression that unless you used a scan tool or forscan you would not delete previously programmed transponder chips. I have used keys not having the door lock/trunk open/panic buttons and then programmed older keyfobs to gain these functions.

Have performed the TPMS Training procedure several times and NO SENSOR on ANY TIRE is detected I suspect a bad TPMS receiver or a blown fuse, Cannot locate a part number or the location of the receiver on any Ford or Lincoln parts website. Car is a base model 2012 Lincoln MKZ.

Have a 2012 MKZ with only 1 transponder key. Owners manual says you need 2 programmed keys to program additional keys. Found this method on the internet. Will it work on the 2012 MKZ? Step 1 Enter your vehicle and put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "ON" position. Leave it in for 10 minutes and 30 seconds. Step 2 Before 45 seconds pass, turn the key to the "OFF" position. Then turn it back to the "ON" position. Wait another 10 minutes and 30 seconds. Step 3 Repeat the above step by turning the key to the "OFF" position within 45 seconds. Then turn it back into the "ON" position. Turn key to the "OFF" position and then back to "ON." The key is now programmed. Turn it in the ignition to check. I assume that 2 keys were originally supplied with the car. Manual says a maximum of 4 keys can be programmed to the car. Does this mean since 2 keys came with the car I can only add 2 more keys to take up the 4 memory slots in the PATS system?

Most 2010 - 2012 MKZ parts are interchangeable. Have a 2012 MKZ and want to replace front passenger seat with a 2010 seat. They look the same. The interchange guide shows only 2011 and 2012 seats are interchangeable. Is that correct? Are the 2010 seats plug compatible with the 2012 heated and cooled seats? If not can they be rewired to work?

I am asking if the grille and bumper cover from the 2010 MKT will fit on the 2012 MKZ

Need a new grille and bumper cover on a 2012 MKZ. Know that most parts from 2010, or 2011 MKZ can be used on a 2012 MKZ. Looking at the front grille and bumper on a 2010 MKT see that they appear to be the same. Are they interchangeable?

Have 2 severely damaged front seats in a 2012 MKZ. What detailed steps can I take to remove the driver and passenger seats from a salvaged car which has no battery power and therefore the seats cannot be moved on the seat track. How many electrical connectors are there to be removed? I believe the heated/cooled seats have multiple connectors. What tools do I need to remove the seats (sockets, Torx wrench, rust remover, etc). Am looking at seats from a 2010 MKZ which I believe are the same as a 2012 MKZ.

Parking brake locked with multiple icons on dash 2016 Fusion Titanium with 5k miles started with Brake system light, as well as Traction Control and ABS lights. Rear electric Parking Brake motors locked and vehicle would not move forward or reverse when transmission was in gear. Researched Electrical Rear Parking Brake procedure and got the car in Maintenance Mode. Still have 4 or 5 illuminated Icons but rear brake motors released so can can move in gear. Checked for codes at OBD port and found none. All normal monitors set but no stored codes. Comes out of Maintenance Mode but still shows dash warning lights and still locks up. What is causing this warning? Regular brakes seem to be functioning properly. I usually do not ever activate the parking brake and it was not turned on at the last time the car was shut off.. What could be causing this? Can I safely drive the car with the Brake, Traction Control, and ABS warning Icons on the dash?

Had the oil filler cap off and a funnel in the filler hole and started the car. Heard and saw small droplets of oil spitting out of the filler hole. First time I ever saw this on any car. Engine is an I4 2.0L turbo. Also seemed to have positive air pressure coming out the oil filler hole. What gives?

Exhaust leaking at flange from Y pipe to rear converter with new gasket Replaced entire exhaust from rear converter, resonator pipe, short curved extension pipe, and muffler on a 2005 wagon with Duratec DOHC engine. Used all Walker parts including a new metal gasket at the flange from the Y pipe (the front 2 converters going to the exhaust manifolds). Walker diagram called for a 31616 metal gasket at the flange and I dug out the old one from the Y pipe flange. Besides this gasket a lot of small curved pieces looking like a disintegrated gasket came out of the round groove in the Y pipe flange. The flange on the OEM connection to the rear converter and the new exact fit Walker replacement is smooth with no groove in it. The old converter flange had 2 staked or threaded bolts or studs, and I had to saw one of them off as the nut had rusted to almost nothing. The new converter flange seemed to fit perfectly but it had 2 holes and no studs or bolts, so I procured 2 bolts, nuts and lockwashers and bolted the 2 flanges together tightly. Started the car and checked for exhaust leaks. The other 3 connections are sealed with 2 1/4" clamps and they appeared to not be leaking. Is there another gasket besides the one I put in that takes up the rest of the space in the groove on the Y pipe flange? How do you seal this connection?_

Loose keyblade on Taurus X remote/key The keyblade (metal) in the plastic remote/transponder key has become loose. It twisted as the steering wheel was torque locked. I to start the car and get home. Opened the cover and used a visegrip to reseat the keyblade to the straight position. The remote/transponder portion was loose at the top end where the blade exits but seems to be glued into the plastic housing. Did not try to pry it out as I didn't want to wreck the key altogether. Can I pry out the remote/transponder packaged in the plastic that is partially unattached in my key? Can I then successfully reattach or make the keyblade solid with epoxy or other means? See aftermarket remote/transponder SHELLS which contain a keyblade but not the remote or transponder chips. If I get one of these how do I successfully transfer the remote/transponder electronics from my existing key?

2002 Duratec. Replaced UIM and LIM gaskets and some deteriorated hoses. In doing so had to remove fuel rail and injectors. Pulled spark plugs with only about 15K and regapped them to .054. Used dielectric grease on plug wires at plugs and coil. Snapped all wires back onto connections. Cleaned throttle body with choke/carb cleaner. Replaced EGR valve gaskets. Put everything back and checked plug wiring order. Started car. Stumbled due to no fuel at first and stopped. Recranked and started with foot on the accelerator. Now it ran but sounded very rough. Had to keep throttle way down to keep it running. It got up to 2500 RPM but sounded like it wasn't firing on all cylinders. ran like this for about 20 to 30 seconds and when I took my foot off of the accelerator it quit running. Has a new fuel filter (6 months ago) and the PCV valve was replaced about a year ago. Seems like it isn't firing on 2 or more plugs. Know that I snapped all electrical connectors onto the fuel injectors till they clicked and bottomed. I thought it might just be fuel wasn't getting to the injectors but after 30 seconds the fuel should be pumping to all injectors. What now. Plugs not firing? Injectors not firing? What else? What would you check next?

Been researching used engines and found some around $300-$800 for VIN S Duratec 24 V for a 2001-2003 Taurus. Also found them for Sables. Are they the same or are some parts different and would a Sable Duratec drop in and have everything bolt on correctly? Some vendors recomment replacing the water pump, timing belt(s) and front and rear main seals. Is this really necessary? BIGHANK