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mcisler

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  1. tried that--- nothing found in this area --- ebay motors has some ( but not in pairs) and 60$--80$ ea. for something that might be as bad as what I have . Hard to believe there is nothing available in the Ford system as they are still building escapes ..
  2. they are covered 3years /36Kmi-- no dirt roads--potholes- etc. problem is there are NO replacements available even in the aftermarket
  3. 2020 Escape Titanium AWD,, 29K miles needed rear tires.. Both shocks were found to be leaking, bad enough that tires wore way early-- Now the problem--- supposedly there are NO shocks for replacement available (and no future availability times given either ) in the entire country, and none aftermarket either ,-- so if I keep driving the new tires will be ruined also . Now the question is this or will this be resolved soon ??.
  4. I have a 2006 f-10 xlt 92K miles all the " idiot lights" are on-- tach and speedo do not work either( they buzz at times) I suspect a bad ground but-- where would it be located ??
  5. stopped at my dealer today to see if there was any info about the escape replacement- the salesman did not even know the name Kuga or what it is are there any firm dates published about when they might start appearing and will be available
  6. it's taken a while but -- the solenoid connection was the proper one--- so i cleaned ALL connections I could find this morning after a 2 mile trip starter was dead again got gheck gauges prompt with key in on or start position checked with test lite NO power to solenoid--- jumped power to starter and it worked fine jumped power to solenoid and it was fine jumped power to solenoid with key on and engine started ( so at least I wont be stranded ) any ideas ???
  7. i found this on a site and will try it next You turn the ignition key on your mid-90's Ford motor vehicle and all you get is a click. Initially you think that either the battery is low or that the battery cables are not secured tightly. You may be surprised that the problem is with the small red wire that leads to the starter solenoid (which is attached to the top of the starter). Ford products (Ford, Lincoln, Mercury) made from 1992 to 2006 had a design defect in the starter that often caused a no-start, no-crank condition. The problem was traced to the ignition terminal connection on the starter's solenoid. Ford finally came out with a conversion kit that remedied the problem. It is Ford part number 6U2Z-14S411-NA, discussed in Technical Service Bulletin 06-19-14 dated Oct. 2, 2006. The ignition terminal connection on the solenoid is the smaller of the two electrical connections to the starter. It is usually red and it attaches to the solenoid via a push-on, pull-off connection called a male spade connection. This connection is the primary source of starter problems because it corrodes easily, causing the connection to fail. The Ford Motor Company has produced a conversion kit that converts the spade-type connection to an eyelet/post-type connection. This will solve the problem. Another alternative is to replace the entire starter assembly with a new or rebuilt unit that already has the newer connection built in. That is the course of action I recommend. Replacing the starter is a simple task. There are only two bolts that hold the starter in place. Then there is a nut on the solenoid that must be removed to disconnect the main power lead. Finally, there is a smaller electrical wire that must also be disconnected from the solenoid. Always disconnect the negative lead on the battery before attempting any repairs on a starter (or alternator, etc.). Do NOT buy a replacement starter or a starter solenoid that uses the male spade connection, since the older type of connection will begin causing problems in as little as a year.
  8. thank you I can check this would a bad groung also trigger the check gauges prompt ??
  9. 2006 F 150 51K miles turn key everything but the starter works relay by passengers footwell is heard klicking prompt in the odometer window says "check gauges" try again later and all is well dealer says since there is no code left they can't fix it and wont try... I've been stranded 4 times last time even called a wrecker only to have it start right up AFTER it was towed to a repair shop.. Even if each piece of the starter system was replaced I still would not know if the real culprit was found. somewhere there must be a record of this type of failure or a place to ask any ideas??
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