bradleyheathhays
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Posts posted by bradleyheathhays
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Thanks for the direction YT. Might be a coil. I replaced 7 of the plugs last month. One won't come out and I haven't figured out what to do about it just yet.
Wish I had remembered this earlier but about a week before this started I ran the best part of a can of seafoam in through the break booster intake, let it soak and put on the old smoke show. This one was particularly impressive. I've heard doing this can trigger a code for a bad O2 sensor, but that you just clear the code and go on. Wonder if that much smoke turned out to be the last straw for one of the sensors and it just failed?
Did I see somewhere how you can clean one of these sensors with a blow torch? -
Have an '11 Crown Vic with 280k that's been used as a delivery vehicle most of it's life. Just got it so I'm not too familiar with it's history.
Two days ago I noticed at idle the engine had a variable missing / jerk shaking pattern, but otherwise drove fine. Next day the driving is much rougher. It seems to miss somewhat going through the first 3 gears but it's manageable with varying gas pedal. It's not until you get into O/D that things really start to shake. Soon as it switches up the whole car goes into a rumble. You either have to let off the gas or press harder, as acceleration seems to calm it down some. Engine light is permanently on and flashes when the rumbling is at it's worst. Wish I had some codes to quote but haven't had a chance to get it hooked up yet. Mechanic who I gave a ride to yesterday said it felt like a bad oxygen sensor. I asked if it could be an injector and he said the missing would be more consistent if it was.
I'll be getting it read asap but in the meantime thought I would get yalls thoughts on it. What else could it possibly be other than an O2 sensor? -
Have an 02 Taurus that's leaking water at the top of the windshield, and the gasket is doing this...
It'll pretty much pull out all the way around the windshield. Guess I need to take it all out, clean the edge of the windshield interface with a degreaser and nylon brush, pump a bunch of sealant in there and reinstall the gasket.
What kind of cleaner and sealant should I use for this job? Any advice appreciated. -
Just bought a '11 Crown Vic w/ 270k miles a couple months ago and finally got around to replacing the plugs today. They all looked like this..
All with heavy white deposits as well as both top and bottom electrodes eroded. Gap on these should be 41-47 and they were measuring about 80. So first question is what do the white deposits and eroded electrodes indicate?
Everything was going well until I get to the last plug in cyl 4, all the way back on the left. Thing was/is in crazy tight. After cranking back and forth for a while the best I could get out of it was 1/8 turn. It moves fairly easily within that limit but comes to a dead stop at the ends of the turn. What could have caused something like this? I think the mechanics taking care of it before me were hacks. Car started out as a police vehicle then was a cab before I got it.My only idea is to heat the engine up and see if it'll twist out. Although I'd have to be careful as I'm sure hot threads would strip easily. Not really sure if that'd be a good idea.
Any advice on how to proceed here?
And last I broke a tiny clip at the end of the tube in the bottom center of this pic and have to replace it now...
I think it's part of the evap system but not sure. Anybody know what it's called, part number, or how I would search for it on ebay? -
Sorry to start another thread but I'm desperate to get this fixed fast as it's really costing me not having this vehicle on the road now.
Got a '11 Crown Vic that's been overheating because the rad fan hasn't been kicking on when it should. I replaced the fan and fan controller with a new unit and it's still not working right. Sometimes the fan kicks on when I turn the a/c on, and other times it doesn't. Sometimes it turns on when the engine gets hot and sometimes it doesn't.
Water pump is known to be good, flushed system both ways and the thermostat is new.
Any ideas? -
Tested water pump and it's working good. Now, I've replaced both the reservoir cap and thermostat with new.
Then did some more testing by way of observing the fan speed when turning the a/c on and off. Fan speed seemed sluggish as if it wasn't being properly commanded. At different points it seemed like it wanted to turn but would stop. Maybe a dumb idea but after turning the a/c off and the blades came to a stop I took a small twig and gave the blade a quick push and it slowly started going again.
So what is this a bad fan motor maybe? And if so, where do you get just the motor? Can't find it at any of the major car store sites.
I've also read the connectors on either end of the fan control module (connected to the fan body) can get corroded. -
Yes thanks fordtech1 I'll be replacing the reservoir cap, thermostat and flushing the system here in an hour, but I'm almost sure my main problem is the fan not coming on.
If you could give advice on how to test the parts responsible for turning the fan on I would greatly appreciate it. I have a multi-meter but need sort of specific advice on how to set it to use it. No real formal training with it.
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I believe it's the rad fan now. Here's what I'm seeing...
1 - The overheat condition doesn't happen while moving, it only happens while in park after idling for a while
2 - Top radiator hose DOES get hot
3 - If the a/c is off, the rad fan doesn't turn at all during overheating as the temp gauge moves all the way up
4 - At normal engine temp the rad fan DOES turn as soon as the a/c is turned on, but I've only observed this so far at normal temperatures.
5 - During the times it overheats and the a/c is on, the cabin vent air gets hot and humid right when the overheating occurs. I haven't yet made it a point to check the rad fan at this point to see if it's still turning.
6 - During testing, after getting the engine temp up to idle hot and the temp gauge read normal in the middle, to trigger it to overheat I had to run the engine at 2k rpm for over 5 mins before the dash temp gauge began to rise. After the gauge begins to creep up I've let off the gas but the temp continues to go all the way up. Although to trigger the overheat condition I ran it at 2k for a while, it DOES overheat by simply sitting in park and idling.
7 - The coolant reservoir cap has a small leak but I don't think this is a major factor. I've continued to top off the reservoir throughout my testing and overall there doesn't seem to be much coolant leaking from the reservoir. Although, you CAN hear air seep from the reservoir cap when you squeeze the top rad hose.
The main problem seems to be the rad fan not turning. Any ideas? I'm all ears. -
Thanks for the replies. I believe the fan is turning ok but I haven't watched out for it specifically yet. I'll check here soon. Actually the radiator did have some crap stuck in the lower part of it which I garden hose sprayed out. I'll check some more between the rad and condenser like you suggest.
No, reving the engine does not cool it down.
After watching it overheat a couple times now a pattern has emerged of coolant leaking from under the reservoir cap while the dash temp gauge still reads normal. After that the gauge goes up to full overheat. What would leaking around the reservoir cap indicate in this situation?
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Complete re-edit...
I have an '11 Crown Vic (270k miles) with an overheating problem that I believe is being caused by the rad fan not turning. Here's what I've seen so far...
1 - The overheat condition doesn't happen while moving, it only happens while in park after idling for a while
2 - Top radiator hose DOES get hot
3 - If the a/c is off, the rad fan DOES NOT turn at all during overheating as the temp gauge moves all the way up
4 - At normal engine temp the rad fan DOES turn as soon as the a/c is turned on, but I've only observed this so far at normal temperatures.
5 - During the times it overheats and the a/c is on, the cabin vent air gets hot and humid right when the overheating occurs. I haven't yet made it a point to check the rad fan at this point to see if it's still turning.
6 - During testing, after getting the engine temp up to idle hot and the temp gauge read normal in the middle, to trigger it to overheat I had to run the engine at 2k rpm for over 5 mins before the dash temp gauge began to rise. After the gauge begins to creep up I've let off the gas but the temp continues to go all the way up. Although to trigger the overheat condition I ran it at 2k for a while, it DOES overheat by simply sitting in park and idling.
7 - The coolant reservoir cap has a small leak but I don't think this is a major factor. I've continued to top off the reservoir throughout my testing and overall there doesn't seem to be much coolant leaking from the reservoir. Although, you CAN hear air seep from the reservoir cap when you squeeze the top rad hose.
The main problem seems to be the rad fan not turning. Any ideas? I'm all ears. -
Thanks for pointing me to the idle control valve. Sounds like an easy job.
So I was able to frankenstein the gauge in just downstream of the new fuel filter. After first start the pump put out 32 psi but then dropped to 25 after running 5 mins and after 10 it settled to around 22 psi. On second start I cycled the key once and the gauge read 10, cycled again it read 30, again it read something like 50, and last time it read around 60. Started ok but that reading seems high to me.
Been told to expect a reading bt 32-33 at idle. With a reading 10 psi below normal does this mean for sure that my pump is bad? I really need to get a FSM on this car. -
Lord I got a steep learning curve on this car right now.
I have a fuel pressure gauge and I'm trying to test pressure. Can't find a schrader valve on the fuel rail or close to, so does that mean I have to hook it in just downstream from the fuel filter. Been told that's on the underneath side.
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Can't remember if the engine light is on I'll have to check. When I hook my reader up it just says error although it works on my other vehicles. This was a cab once and there's a lot of extra wiring in there for where the meter was etc. My guess is this stuff has something to do with why my reader get that error message.
The tough start seems to happen when it's cold when sitting overnight. After running for a bit and while still warm it starts up more easily.
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Over the past few months the old vic has increasingly taken longer to start. Mostly she's been a strong starter, but about 3000 miles ago it started taking maybe half a second longer to start, and that start delay slowly increased until today I cranked for 3-4 sec and it didn't catch at all. Waited a few then cranked again for 2, let off, and it barely seemed to catch, but it started. Wouldn't surprise me if it didn't start again the way it's progressed. Any idea what's going on? This car is new to me and I don't know much of it's history. Not all that familiar with crown vics either. 266k miles
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Thanks for the help. The parts I'm wanting to paint are light and have been scuffed beyond cleaning, so I'm just trying to get them back to their original color.
My carpets got some stains that aren't coming out so I'm considering carpet paint. Probably wouldn't need more than a can. I guess it'll work ok. The stains are on non traffic parts of the carpet.
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Anyone know of a place on the interweb that sells model specific color matched paint for interior plastic panels?
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I've read about one person taking the extra step of disconnecting their IMRC control cable and holding open their secondaries when seafoaming their engine. Would this apply to my 02 Taurus SES 3.0?
If so, where is the IMRC cable disconnected and how do you hold open the secondaries?
And does adding this step require the seafoam be fed in through a particular vac line, or would the good old brake booster line do?
Thanks -
YT thanks for that info because the line pictured leads off to the right and has a large elongated bulb about a foot down that I'll bet is the muffler you're talking about.
Is that the muffler you mentioned?
What's the procedure for bleeding with a hand vacuum pump?
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Thanks, good to know this is normal. What causes this to happen, a bad PCV?
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Leak doesn't seem too bad, but enough to be looked after. Fluid level went down about an inch over 2 weeks.
Is this the teflon o-ring you were referring to?...
Found it through Oreilly's drill down menu for the 02 taurus.
Also, found the washer/ring? part that fits b/t the large nut and the housing. I think it's the bottom right ring in the middle. Guy at the parts house says he can get me just that part and not the whole kit, which is what part page this pic comes from. I guess it's a washer. By the picture I'm assuming that large nut fitting is designed to come out, so hopefully I don't have too much trouble with that.
About that tool to stretch the teflon o-ring...is that something relatively inexpensive I can just pick up at Oreiley's? Haven't worked with something like this before.
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Have an 02 Taurus SES 6 cyl and I"m not sure what's going on here...
You can see enough oil in the cup there where it's pooled on the bottom. Is it normal for oil to be here? And if not what's causing it?
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Have an '02 Taurus SES 6 cyl that's got a steering fluid leak that I think I've been able to identify. Here's the two pics...
Seems to me the leak is coming from between the large nut and the fluid reservoir. I'm guessing I need to replace the black grommet?/washer you can see between the nut and the reservoir.
So my questions are...
1) What do I actually need to replace? The black grommet? And what is it properly called?
2) How do I go about backing those nuts out? Loosen the smaller one first that's closest to the line, then get the large one out? Seems like that large nut is too close to the reservoir body to get a socket around it. Guess I'd have to use some channel locks or vice grips.
and
3) Considering I'm possibly introducing air into the system, are there any special steps I should take to get it burped once everything is back together and the reservoir is filled?
Thanks from both me and Mom as this is her car. -
You know I'm not really sure about the number of valves right now. It's my mother's and I'm just getting to know the car. An insurance card says it's a model SES.
edit... If it helps the VIN is 1FAFP55U72G273676. One guy at a car parts store said the U in the VIN gave him enough info to know what kind of engine it has.
After cleaning the main throttle body I was going to clean the IAC valve but found this written on the outside... "Attention: Do not clean inside throttle body or adjust hard stop screw. Special coating on throttle plate and bore."
Again, this was written on the small IAC attached just after the throttle body, although it seems to refer to the throttle body itself. So is this referring just to the smaller 'body' the IAC is installed in or does it refer to the main throttle body with the large pivoting circular flap valve?
And whatever it's referring to, can I clean it despite this warning or should I follow the instruction?
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No check engine light but I'll hook up the code reader to see if it's showing anything.
I've had someone else comment on the problem...
'That scenario is called an idle roll or a warm idle roll. Typically what is happening is a condition that the PCM corrects and then stops and the condition repeats with correction and return to the issue. Unmetered air getting past the throttle body or a vacuum leak or some other lean or rich condition that is corrected and then the correction stops.'
I'll be cleaning out the throttle body and IAC today, and possibly the MAF to see if that helps the situation.
cyl 7 misfire and coolant in the plug well
in Crown Victoria, Interceptor Concept, Grand Marquis, Marauder, Town Car Discusison Forum
Posted
Sorry to start a new thread on this but I'm in a hurry to get this figured out as time really is money on this one.
My '11 Crown vic with 270k miles suddenly started running rough mostly at the lower end of the gears. By the time you got into o/d the whole car shook. Scan tool gives me P0307 cyl 7 misfire, and P0316 misfire upon startup. So I pull the coil on 7 to find a pool of burnt smelling coolant about 2" deep. Siphoned and blew it out and removed the plug to find it's electrodes fouled with a thin coat of something shiny and black. Rubbed off without much effort. The plugs are about 4 weeks and 1500 miles old. Pulled cyl 6 coil right next to it and found a lot of white particles about half the size of rice stuck to the sides of the plug well walls. Seemed odd as I'd just blown out all the plug wells a month ago. Blew it out again and removed the plug to reveal electrodes that were coated slightly white. This plug had a ring of a black just south of the hex part. Looked like darkened sort of coagulated oil. Wiped off easily.
The car drives much better now after blowing the antifreeze out of the plug well but the miss is still there. So glad as this might buy me some time to get this figured out.
I'm not even sure how it's possible for coolant to get in a plug well. Any ideas, head gasket maybe? What's my next step in investigating?