bradleyheathhays
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Posts posted by bradleyheathhays
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Can't remember if the engine light is on I'll have to check. When I hook my reader up it just says error although it works on my other vehicles. This was a cab once and there's a lot of extra wiring in there for where the meter was etc. My guess is this stuff has something to do with why my reader get that error message.
The tough start seems to happen when it's cold when sitting overnight. After running for a bit and while still warm it starts up more easily.
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Over the past few months the old vic has increasingly taken longer to start. Mostly she's been a strong starter, but about 3000 miles ago it started taking maybe half a second longer to start, and that start delay slowly increased until today I cranked for 3-4 sec and it didn't catch at all. Waited a few then cranked again for 2, let off, and it barely seemed to catch, but it started. Wouldn't surprise me if it didn't start again the way it's progressed. Any idea what's going on? This car is new to me and I don't know much of it's history. Not all that familiar with crown vics either. 266k miles
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Thanks for the help. The parts I'm wanting to paint are light and have been scuffed beyond cleaning, so I'm just trying to get them back to their original color.
My carpets got some stains that aren't coming out so I'm considering carpet paint. Probably wouldn't need more than a can. I guess it'll work ok. The stains are on non traffic parts of the carpet.
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Anyone know of a place on the interweb that sells model specific color matched paint for interior plastic panels?
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I've read about one person taking the extra step of disconnecting their IMRC control cable and holding open their secondaries when seafoaming their engine. Would this apply to my 02 Taurus SES 3.0?
If so, where is the IMRC cable disconnected and how do you hold open the secondaries?
And does adding this step require the seafoam be fed in through a particular vac line, or would the good old brake booster line do?
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YT thanks for that info because the line pictured leads off to the right and has a large elongated bulb about a foot down that I'll bet is the muffler you're talking about.
Is that the muffler you mentioned?
What's the procedure for bleeding with a hand vacuum pump?
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Thanks, good to know this is normal. What causes this to happen, a bad PCV?
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Leak doesn't seem too bad, but enough to be looked after. Fluid level went down about an inch over 2 weeks.
Is this the teflon o-ring you were referring to?...
Found it through Oreilly's drill down menu for the 02 taurus.
Also, found the washer/ring? part that fits b/t the large nut and the housing. I think it's the bottom right ring in the middle. Guy at the parts house says he can get me just that part and not the whole kit, which is what part page this pic comes from. I guess it's a washer. By the picture I'm assuming that large nut fitting is designed to come out, so hopefully I don't have too much trouble with that.
About that tool to stretch the teflon o-ring...is that something relatively inexpensive I can just pick up at Oreiley's? Haven't worked with something like this before.
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Have an 02 Taurus SES 6 cyl and I"m not sure what's going on here...
You can see enough oil in the cup there where it's pooled on the bottom. Is it normal for oil to be here? And if not what's causing it?
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Have an '02 Taurus SES 6 cyl that's got a steering fluid leak that I think I've been able to identify. Here's the two pics...
Seems to me the leak is coming from between the large nut and the fluid reservoir. I'm guessing I need to replace the black grommet?/washer you can see between the nut and the reservoir.
So my questions are...
1) What do I actually need to replace? The black grommet? And what is it properly called?
2) How do I go about backing those nuts out? Loosen the smaller one first that's closest to the line, then get the large one out? Seems like that large nut is too close to the reservoir body to get a socket around it. Guess I'd have to use some channel locks or vice grips.
and
3) Considering I'm possibly introducing air into the system, are there any special steps I should take to get it burped once everything is back together and the reservoir is filled?
Thanks from both me and Mom as this is her car. -
You know I'm not really sure about the number of valves right now. It's my mother's and I'm just getting to know the car. An insurance card says it's a model SES.
edit... If it helps the VIN is 1FAFP55U72G273676. One guy at a car parts store said the U in the VIN gave him enough info to know what kind of engine it has.
After cleaning the main throttle body I was going to clean the IAC valve but found this written on the outside... "Attention: Do not clean inside throttle body or adjust hard stop screw. Special coating on throttle plate and bore."
Again, this was written on the small IAC attached just after the throttle body, although it seems to refer to the throttle body itself. So is this referring just to the smaller 'body' the IAC is installed in or does it refer to the main throttle body with the large pivoting circular flap valve?
And whatever it's referring to, can I clean it despite this warning or should I follow the instruction?
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No check engine light but I'll hook up the code reader to see if it's showing anything.
I've had someone else comment on the problem...
'That scenario is called an idle roll or a warm idle roll. Typically what is happening is a condition that the PCM corrects and then stops and the condition repeats with correction and return to the issue. Unmetered air getting past the throttle body or a vacuum leak or some other lean or rich condition that is corrected and then the correction stops.'
I'll be cleaning out the throttle body and IAC today, and possibly the MAF to see if that helps the situation.
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Have an '02 Taurus 6 cyl where the start up and idle down seem normal, but when it's put in gear and allowed to move just with engine idle it has a consistent wave like throttle surge that can easily catch you off guard and propel you too far forward. The surge happens in pulses about a second and a half apart. After you get rolling above 5mph the surge either doesn't happen or isn't noticed. Does it all the time anywhere in a drive, cold or hot. Been happening for at least 5 years now.
Any idea what's causing this?
'11 crown vic taking longer to start
in Crown Victoria, Interceptor Concept, Grand Marquis, Marauder, Town Car Discusison Forum
Posted
Lord I got a steep learning curve on this car right now.
I have a fuel pressure gauge and I'm trying to test pressure. Can't find a schrader valve on the fuel rail or close to, so does that mean I have to hook it in just downstream from the fuel filter. Been told that's on the underneath side.