bradleyheathhays

Thanks yall. thought I was good.

This may sound like a stupid question, as I'm prone to ask sometimes. But...I drive a '96 Cherokee with the inline 4.0 non-interference engine and it doesn't like driving in the heat so much. Since I'm a car down right now I'm driving it a LOT more than I used to. After a lot of driving in this hot weather it starts slower, but still starts and runs ok. So to help it out I've been raising the hood and putting 2 box fans right on top of the engine to help it cool. I hadn't thought about it but my Mom asked if cooling it down too quickly could be bad for the engine. And since I don't know I thought I'd ask here. Any harm in using my method to cool an engine down much more quickly than normal?

Wow after all this and it turns out to be the rear end. Just got it to my mechanic and he watched the driveshaft when I gave it some gas, in gear, and it turned. So I guess that's where the sound was coming from. Although my trans fluid smells a little, a mechanic who works on these crown vics a lot says the fluid always smells somewhat burned. I'm super easy on this car so I'm not sure why the fluid would smell like that. Newly changed out like 15k miles ago.

Just now got back from trying to get it going for the first time and no success. First I disconnected the battery for a few minutes like someone had suggested. Checked trans fluid and it seemed at a good level, but definitely dark and burnt smelling. The coolant I had put in there before was still in there so the reservoir was full. The front of the engine was caked with white which I'm assuming was caked on and dried coolant. Started the engine and moved the shift lever through all the gears and that felt normal. Put it in drive and didn't feel anything engage at all. Gave it some gas and something whirred in the trans. The more rpms the louder the sound got. Almost sounded like something rotating...but it seemed to be coming right from the transmission. I just checked the trans fluid last week and it seemed to look fairly new. What in the world could have happened to cause this? So what do I do now? Is the trans toast or could I maybe try putting new trans fluid and filter in and see what happens?

I'll be trying to start her tonight for the first time so we'll see. Crossing my fingers. The other possibilities that have been mentioned to me so far is a broken input shaft or the MLPS, and I don't know what either one of these is. Was told if it ws the MLPS that it would be throwing a code. So wouldn't you know I'm having a problem getting it read. Wonder if there is a way to get a multi-meter on whatever the MLPS is and test it? Also, what is the input shaft and is it something in the drive line?

Sadly this may be the last post I make on the old '11 Crown Vic (320k). So yesterday I heard a quiet hiss coming from the front which turned out to be a very small radiator leak...in the middle of a fin somewhere. Doing errands around town today I kept extra coolant with me and added it as it needed. After filling it up I make a 60 mph trip to a nearby city about 20 miles away. When I get to a stop at the bottom of the off ramp, I hit the gas it it doesn't move. No extra lights on the dash except for the check engine light which was already on for something else. I put it in park and back in drive, tried all the gears but got nothing, not even in reverse. Thinking it might have something to do with my coolant situation I checked it and ended up putting in like 1.5 gal of coolant which is much more than it's taken before. Only thing I can imagine is that the leak got worse on the interstate and I didn't notice it. Did the no coolant issue cause the transmission to overheat somehow? There was a slight burning smell in the cabin so something definitely overheated. The overheat light on the dash never came on (I think I have one?) and the engine ran fine the whole time. I was traveling at 60 mph though so I wonder if that would be enough to cool the engine off while the transmission still overheated? What in the heck happened and what do I do, besides sell the damn thing.

Found a fairly comprehensive front end kit for a great deal...like $137 for all of this... 2006-11 Ford Lincoln Mercury Steering & Suspension Kit 12 Piece Set - 1ASFK05040 https://www.1aauto.com/2006-11-ford-lincoln-mercury-steering-and-suspension-kit-12-piece-set/i/1asfk05040 I'd rather go with something more dependable like Moog at least on the lower ball joints. What do you think? Should I go with this kit and save? She's got 320k on her now.

Thanks for the info. Those sound like simple and quick tests. Good to know. So far I've been able to run a couple tests.. I hooked up a fuel pressure gauge and first key turn got it up to only 20psi. Second turn got it up to 45. And third and subsequent turns got it up to 48. It only fell to 43 after 2 minutes so I think that means the fuel pressure is good. Hooked up a spark tester between a plug and wire and it didn't light at all when cranked so I'm guessing I've got a spark problem. I'll start by doing a tune up with new rotor, cap, wires and plugs then see what happens.

Gracias twintornados. That sounds exactly right. How do I check that the ignition coils are getting a signal to fire. Is there a tool that does that? I heard the fuel pump come on so at least that can be ruled out. To check the fuel I suppose you get a fuel pressure gauge, and if the Hg is in range then fuel can be ruled out?

So I got this '96 Jeep Cherokee XJ that cranks but doesn't start. It's got around 180k on her but I keep everything in good shape. Batt seemed strong. I used to drive it everyday but this past year I've driven it only about twice a week. It's been just slightly slower to start in the last couple of months, but just barely slower. Was guessing it had something to do with aging plugs or something. Drove it yesterday and everything was normal like always, sat overnight and today it cranked but didn't catch. Any ideas on where to start?

Considering the mileage I've decided to change out everything I can. Ordering 2 new top A-arm assemblies, 2 lower ball joints, 4 lower A-arm bushings, 2 new strut assemblies w/ springs, and 2 sway bar links. This only leaves the tie rod ends which there is a chance are not original. This car was part of a fleet that got regular maintenance so since I didn't see any movement at the outer tie rod ends when I was doing the 3 & 9 push test I'm thinking they may have already been replaced. I'll put in everything I've ordered and see how the steering is after that. Do you always do both inner and outer tie rod ends at the same time or is it common just to do the outer, or just the inner? Found a decent set of ebay shock and spring, strut? assemblies for $150 but it's specified as fitting the interceptor model whereas mine is just the base model. Would they still work ok?

Gotcha. Thanks twin.

Do I have a stamped steel or forged top A-arm? I believe it's stamped but I'm not entirely sure.

Thanks for the info fuzzy. Does anyone know if the top ball joint presses out as well? The only video I've seen shows an older model vic and there are just 2 large adjustable like bolts that secure the top ball joint.

Well I've decided I'm gonna give it a shot at doing this myself. 'Couple' questions... - I know the lower BJ presses out, but does the top one press out as well? - Does the sway bar link have to come off for better access? - Anything else I should change out while I'm in there? So far I'm gonna be doing both upper and lower BJs and probably the tie rod ends. - I've been told to use green loc tite. That would be used on the threads on the bottom of the BJs? - Also been told to watch out for the spring shooting out at me but I believe I have a shock in spring, a strut? Is there any danger of this spring suddenly popping out after tension is eased? I don't plan on removing the spring at all. - The Moog BJ I'm considering at Rockauto doesn't appear to have a grease boot. Am I looking at this picture wrong? Is that black part a boot that will expand when it's filled up?