bradleyheathhays

Found a fairly comprehensive front end kit for a great deal...like $137 for all of this... 2006-11 Ford Lincoln Mercury Steering & Suspension Kit 12 Piece Set - 1ASFK05040 https://www.1aauto.com/2006-11-ford-lincoln-mercury-steering-and-suspension-kit-12-piece-set/i/1asfk05040 I'd rather go with something more dependable like Moog at least on the lower ball joints. What do you think? Should I go with this kit and save? She's got 320k on her now.

Thanks for the info. Those sound like simple and quick tests. Good to know. So far I've been able to run a couple tests.. I hooked up a fuel pressure gauge and first key turn got it up to only 20psi. Second turn got it up to 45. And third and subsequent turns got it up to 48. It only fell to 43 after 2 minutes so I think that means the fuel pressure is good. Hooked up a spark tester between a plug and wire and it didn't light at all when cranked so I'm guessing I've got a spark problem. I'll start by doing a tune up with new rotor, cap, wires and plugs then see what happens.

Gracias twintornados. That sounds exactly right. How do I check that the ignition coils are getting a signal to fire. Is there a tool that does that? I heard the fuel pump come on so at least that can be ruled out. To check the fuel I suppose you get a fuel pressure gauge, and if the Hg is in range then fuel can be ruled out?

So I got this '96 Jeep Cherokee XJ that cranks but doesn't start. It's got around 180k on her but I keep everything in good shape. Batt seemed strong. I used to drive it everyday but this past year I've driven it only about twice a week. It's been just slightly slower to start in the last couple of months, but just barely slower. Was guessing it had something to do with aging plugs or something. Drove it yesterday and everything was normal like always, sat overnight and today it cranked but didn't catch. Any ideas on where to start?

Considering the mileage I've decided to change out everything I can. Ordering 2 new top A-arm assemblies, 2 lower ball joints, 4 lower A-arm bushings, 2 new strut assemblies w/ springs, and 2 sway bar links. This only leaves the tie rod ends which there is a chance are not original. This car was part of a fleet that got regular maintenance so since I didn't see any movement at the outer tie rod ends when I was doing the 3 & 9 push test I'm thinking they may have already been replaced. I'll put in everything I've ordered and see how the steering is after that. Do you always do both inner and outer tie rod ends at the same time or is it common just to do the outer, or just the inner? Found a decent set of ebay shock and spring, strut? assemblies for $150 but it's specified as fitting the interceptor model whereas mine is just the base model. Would they still work ok?

Gotcha. Thanks twin.

Do I have a stamped steel or forged top A-arm? I believe it's stamped but I'm not entirely sure.

Thanks for the info fuzzy. Does anyone know if the top ball joint presses out as well? The only video I've seen shows an older model vic and there are just 2 large adjustable like bolts that secure the top ball joint.

Well I've decided I'm gonna give it a shot at doing this myself. 'Couple' questions... - I know the lower BJ presses out, but does the top one press out as well? - Does the sway bar link have to come off for better access? - Anything else I should change out while I'm in there? So far I'm gonna be doing both upper and lower BJs and probably the tie rod ends. - I've been told to use green loc tite. That would be used on the threads on the bottom of the BJs? - Also been told to watch out for the spring shooting out at me but I believe I have a shock in spring, a strut? Is there any danger of this spring suddenly popping out after tension is eased? I don't plan on removing the spring at all. - The Moog BJ I'm considering at Rockauto doesn't appear to have a grease boot. Am I looking at this picture wrong? Is that black part a boot that will expand when it's filled up?

Sorry it took so long to get back. I just got the car back from a front end inspection and they're saying my biggest problem is that both lower ball joints need to be replaced. I've done work similar to this before (using a pickle fork to separate joints and using a rented ball joint press) but they were advising it might be too tough of a job to do by myself in my driveway. I have a 1000lb impact wrench but only a really small compressor. What do you guys think about attempting this job myself? Any advice?

Thanks for all the advice. I'm not sure what the word 'inexpto' is though...next to last sentence.

My '11 Crown Vic has got 315k miles on it and I'm having some kind of tracking problem that I think is coming from the steering. If there's not much wind it drives straight down the road just fine up to about 60 mph. But if the winds up some, or if I take it up to 70, it's tracking characteristics start to get weird and unsettling. Rain seems to cause it to get worse as well. The feeling is not dissimilar to hydroplaning. I got the wheels off the ground and pushed/pulled on all the tires..3 and 9 o'clock, 6 and 12. Back wheels were solid, and the fronts were ok when I did the 6 and 12, but on the 3 and 9 test the tires moved about 1/4". They didn't move easily say as if they were completely loose, but it didn't take all that much effort to get them rocking either. At each limit of movement there's a low grade thud that's coming from somewhere between the two wheels, pretty close to the center of the car I'd say. I don't know if the movement I'm seeing is normal, but the degree the steering seems to be unpredictable would seem to correlate to about the degree of movement I'm seeing with the 3 and 9 test. Any ideas on where I go from here?

So I put a headlight wiring kit from LMC Truck on my '96 Cherokee that circumvents the normal wiring and runs the headlights directly off the battery by way of a relay. The kit runs the lights at 55/100 (low, hi) watts instead of the original 55/60. One reason I did this was because the light output was terrible, and the other was because for some unknown reason the headlights would shut off after being on hi for a bit. Never did this on low. I've had the new wiring kit on for a few years now and it seems to have solved the issue. The problem I'm having now though is that this new harness is melting at one of the connections... You can see only one of the wires is overheating while the other seems to be ok. I'm guessing the hot one is used by the high beams. What could be causing this? Could it be related to why the high beams used to shut off before I replaced the wiring harness? A while back I asked about the shutting off issue on a number of Jeep boards but nobody had heard of this particular problem before.

I'm not really sure. I've been told to run a gallon of lacquer thinner through with a full tank of gas. It's hit or miss I think.

Thanks for the input yall. Sorry it took so long to get back. The check engine light went off but it came back on yesterday so I got the codes read again. Guy's machine read 4 codes but said they were all the same code...P0430. I'd like to hear more about these O2 sensor extensions. Not sure what these are or what they would do. Not sure what spark pluyg defoulers are either. Could you explain more please? I'm game for the lacquer thinner option I've been hearing about. I see low voc lacquer thinner for sale. Wonder if it matters which version you use?