bradleyheathhays

I'm about to install a used AW4 transmission into my 96 XJ (Cherokee), and I'd like to replace whatever parts I can easily get to before it goes in, short of a rebuild. I'll be replacing the torque converter for sure, but I don't know what replacement part to go with. Should I try to go for an OEM part or a particular brand? Also, besides the t converter are there any other trans parts I should replace? Thanks

I've got a 02 Ford Taurus with a 'blown' heat a/c blower motor that needs replacing, and I was wondering if there are any model/part suggestions. Should I angle for an OEM part, or is there any manufacturer brand I should look out for, or avoid? Thanks.

Aha, serpentine belt was not in my thoughts so I'm glad you mentioned. Do you think these 20 deg F temps might be causing it to slip some not spinning the alternator as fast as it should? Got some more testing done. With engine running the batt shows 14.73 V. With the engine running and high beams and high fan on shows 14.49 V. Took it to Advanced for their test and they said the alternator looks good but the battery shows weak, but not so bad the warranty would kick in. Wonk.

I have an 02 Taurus and my dash battery light has come on twice in the past week. Once after a few miles of driving, seemingly random, and once when I was warming the engine up. It's been 20-30F around here lately. This second time, I started the engine in the morning at about 20 deg F. Let the idle come down to normal and after about a minute I gave a little gas to get the engine up to 1500 rpm, which is when the batt light came on. It switched back off after about 5 seconds, after I got off the gas. After sitting for 6 hours, my old multimeter shows 12.48 V on the battery. It's one of those 2 year warranty EverStart batts from Walmart, manufactured in 3/23, so still in warranty. Does a 12.49 resting voltage justify a warranty claim, assuming it's not the alternator that's going bad? Thanks

'02 Taurus here at 111k miles, and I have what I'm interpreting to be either a failing blower motor or a loose electrical connection at the motor. For the past week or so when I turn the climate control mode selection dial to any selection, no air comes from the vents. When the mode knob is turned, everything else seems to be happening...flap doors are heard moving inside the dash, and the compressor clutch engages if the A/C is selected, but no air movement. After 3-4 days of this the blower suddenly works again and stays working for as long as the engine remains on, turning climate control on and off when needed. But the next time the car is driven the blower doesn't work. The blower motor itself seems fine in that it doesn't sound like it has a problem starting up with a slow whir or anything. It sounds completely normal when running. This is why I think it might just be a loose electrical connection at the motor, but I really have no idea, or not much experience dealing with this particular issue. Any advice on what I should check or test? I'm all ears, thanks! And a very Merry Christmas to everyone!

Hey everybody. I'm replacing the compressor and orifice tube on me Mum's '02 Taurus at 110k miles, so they're all original parts. I've never done this job before so I need advice going in. I believe this car has an orifice tube vs. filter as when I'm on rockauto and drilled down to 2002 Ford Taurus OHV, in the Heat and Air Conditioning sub-menu it only gives an option for orifice tube and not filter, so I guess an orifice tube is what I got. What little doo dads do I need besides the compressor and orifice tube going into this?...o-ring seals or some kind of general AC component seals replacement kit? Or things other than the seals I'm imagining running into? Also, any just general advice going about this? Much obliged

I evacuated the system with a vac pump and I'm ready to add refrigerant now. Another poster on a different board asks... 'Are you sure it's not 34oz. of r134a and 7oz. of pag#46 oil??? ' Do I need to worry about adding oil? I would think it's still in the system being no components were taken apart. Here's the refrigerant sticker under the hood...

Mom's '02 Taurus is lurching going from zero to rolling, and I believe it has something to do with the air intake something or other. It had this same problem a few years back and I got advice to take apart the air intake where the green lines are (I think) and clean some area in there (with carb cleaner?) and that would fix the problem, which it did. I was also told that the cleaner would take off the protective coating so this would eventually happen again, and I think that's what's happening now. Can anyone remind me exactly where I need to clean again please and what cleaner to use? Thanks.

I got some gauges on and it was reading 70 lbs on the high side with the RPM at 2000. So I hook up an 11 oz can with a cheap removable gauge (only colors, yellow low, green good, red high) to the low side and tilt it over to add with the AC on Max and full fan. It didn't pull that much in it seemed, so the second time I tipped the can over I held it just a little bit longer and I think it sucked just about the whole can in, and the pressure meter red WAY into the red, high. I think it seized up the compressor because smoke started coming from the compressor pulley? possibly, from that area anyway. I turned the engine off immediately and released some of the refrigerant from the low side. I think what happened is that the pressure was too high in the system and the compressor wouldn't turn, so the compressor pulley stayed in place when the clutch was engaged and the smoke came from the serpentine belt running past the compressor pulley with it not turning. Best guess anyway. So now I don't know what to do. What I'm thinking of doing is having all the refrigerant taken out, putting a vac pump on and evacuate the system and start from scratch. The sticker under the hood says it takes .96 kg of r124a, which is 33.86oz which is just .86oz over exactly 3 x 11oz cans of refrigerant. Best idea so far. Hopefully my compressor isn't shot. Any thoughts?

Yes it's a taurus

I'm servicing my Mother's car right now and the AC blows warm air when on Max and high fan speed, and the compressor seems to be cycling weird. With the engine turned on and Max AC is running at high fan speed the compressor clutch engages spinning for about 10 seconds, and then it disengages and stops turning for about 10 seconds. It keeps doing this on and off deal until the AC is turned off. Is what I'm seeing consistent with low freon/R-134a? Her car did this last spring and I added some refrigerant and the AC began to blow cold again, although I'm not sure if the compressor was behaving this way last time.

I just did the Seafoam treatment to my engine where you disconnect one of the air intake lines and suck in half a can, sit for 20 min then restart and blow it out. I didn't notice the engine light being on before I did the service but it's possible it could've been. When I read the codes I got two... P0132 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 1) P0152 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 1) Are these possibly related to the Seafoam treatment I just did?

I'm doing some maintenance on my AC system and I'm looking for small cans of R134a refrigerant with UV leak indicator but NO sealant. I've heard that most refrigerant 'top off' cans have sealant in them even though the label doesn't mention it, so I thought I better ask. Guy at the local Oreillys said the one pictured doesn't have sealer. Any confirmation or other brand suggestions?

Anyone?

Before diagnosing Mom's '02 Taurus warm air A/C issue I watched a video which gave advice to check the fuse, relay, refrigerant and clutch, so here's how it went... The issue...room temp air comes from the vents when set to Max A/C and dialed to full cold, and warm air comes out when dialed to full hot. There is no sense of cold air at all. fuse - confirmed continuous by multimeter - with no key in the ignition one of the a/c fuse's terminals in the engine bay fuse box read 12+V and the other 0 V - refrigerant - a quick press of the schrader valve reveals refrigerant pressure in the system - compressor and clutch - the middle of the compressor clutch wheel turns when just a little force is applied but does not spin freely - When the engine is on and A/C turned to Max A/C, the compressor clutch has a pattern of engaging for just over 1 second and then releases for about 5, and repeats this on 1s off 5s pattern without interruption for 5 min while I observed. - relay - the video suggested testing the relay junction but the owner's manual doesn't show any of the engine bay relays labeled as being associated with the A/C, so that was a dead end. The clutch seems to be working ok so I'm guessing the relay is a non-issue. As I'm testing I notice the engine light is on where I hadn't noticed it before. Called Mom and she says it wasn't on before, so I guess it just tripped. DTC code reads P1633 which translates to 'keep alive power voltage too low.' Battery failed last month so it was replaced with a brand new one from Wally's. The only observation I can offer other than the above is that when the A/C is turned to Max and the compressor is doing it's 1s on 5s off pattern, during the 5s it's disengaged you can hear a faint scraping sound presumably coming from the compressor clutch that sounds like two very flat surfaces, one being spun and the other not, and they're barely touching. It doesn't make the sound during every 5s disengage interval, but it's definitely there. It seemed to show up more the longer the A/C system ran. The sound stops when the A/C control panel switch is turned to off. Could this be a bad pressure switch / sensor? I'm all ears