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HarryTitus

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  1. Hey, I am overhauling the 200 CID six cylinder in my '65 Mustang. I damaged the new head gasket and had to order a new one. When it arrived it was a one piece stamped all metal gasket. What's up with that? Are these any good? Thanks! Harry
  2. Gentlemen, 2017 Ford F250 Superduty. I am in the process of wiring in an electric winch on my trailer. The deep cycle battery required would need to be charges as we drive. I know the 7 pin jack has a 12+ and a negative. Connecting up a pigtail to connect to these is easy enough, but what about the fuse and relay. The owners manual says a relay goes in slot 37 and a 30 amp fuse goes in slot 27. However, it does not say the specs for the relay. Also, reading another forum, a guy says there is no need for these because the computer will recognize the trailer and automatically power up the 12+. That's why no relay type is specified. What's the deal? Any ideas? Thanks! Harry
  3. RESULTS!!!! Well, they fixed the problem! After getting the new wheel sensors in they began the repair. They removed the tires and found one sensor damaged and broken open, and two more that were not transmitting! Ther replaced all four and the problem has gone away! What are the odds of that?! Two bad ones and one damaged one. Mechanic surmised that all three were damaged while they mounted the tires in the factory. We will soon know if there is a rash of these issues, because if they damaged three of my four I suspect the damage went on for other mounts as well! Thank you all for your comments and suggestions! Harry
  4. I tried the Brake/push hazard flasher button 3 time method. horn beeped, prompt came on dash, and was able to program LF but RF would not program, stopping the rest of the process. Still can t do it at all with the push button thing.
  5. OK, got the new tool! But, I have a push button start and the sequence you posted doesn't work with it. What do you do with it? Harry
  6. YT90SC, I just ordered that tool. Can you recommend a video or step by step to use it? Also, The sensor that fails most often in the LF, even after rotation and resetting the sensors. So, I'm not convinced it is a sensor issue. Thanks! Harry
  7. Here are two photos of my F250 still on the transport from the factory. Rear liner is easy to see, sorry the front is harder....but it's there! This in case someone doesn't believe it. Now, I presume the liners could/can be added by the dealer as an accessory, but mine were factory installed.
  8. My 2017 Super Duty was delivered with the liners already in place.
  9. They rotated the tires first, then inflated to correct pressures. I'm sure they did that part correctly. The tech went to great length explaining all the step by step process the manual calls for. Sent him all over the truck, even the trailer wiring, but in the end it was the failure of the wheel to interact with the tool he used that resulted in a "no fix" situation. Currently, for instance, my RF wheel registers 74 PSI on the dash read out, but the pressure gauge shows it at a perfect 60 PSI. The other three are all off about 6 pounds...give or take. No tire slime Rich, these tires are new with the truck, no flats repaired, nothing done except keeping inflated to the 60/65 PSI as required. Harry
  10. Hi Folks! A few months ago I posted, asking if any of you had experienced an intermittent failure of the TPMS, not a low tire warning, but a failure of the system. Of the few responses, one who had, and another who suggested that a bad cell phone charger could interrupt the "ping" and cause the failure. He further said that if I wasn't charging a phone, then go to the service department. The truck is now 8 months old. I special ordered it and took delivery the day it arrived at the dealership. It's a gas King Ranch, SRW, with an 8' bed and all the heavy duty stuff. Well, the problem kept getting worse until it finally has gotten so bad that it's nonfunctional most of the time. Usually takes a 30 minute drive before the warning light/chime/readout clicks on, and usually involves the left side sensors, but has affected all four at some time or another. Took it in to the service department two days ago, They had it for two days trying to diagnose the fault. Here's what they said. First, these are a new type of sensor and contain a battery. Second, the dash readings of the individual tire pressures of all four wheels are way off from the actual readings....more than 5 PSI on average. I know, I know, they are not expected to be perfect, but this is way worse than considered normal. Also, to diagnose/test sensors, the steps state to begin with LF wheel and go around from there. Trouble is the LF isn't usually sending a signal at all, and the LR fails even if the LF does send, both which interrupt the testing sequence for the rest. Oh, yes, one more symptom, I had the tires rotated during the service appointment. You'd think that since the LF was the worst offender, that moving it to the LR would shift the fault to the LR. No, not at all, the LF still fails the most. I think therefore that it's something in the system that reads the sensors and not sends the signal, but hey....what do I know!? LOL. So, they ordered 4 new wheel sensors. Gonna' see if throwing parts at it will solve the problem. What are the odds for all four being defective, or even two for that matter? I hate this.....I hate the thought of them tearing into those new wheels and maybe damaging the finish. I hate to think that even if the new ones work I have to expect the batteries to fail again in the future. I hate it that I have never had a TPMS issue with any of my previous Fords, but this brand new one/type has already failed and they don't know why. I hate that the TPMS is not designed leave fault codes for the tech to pull, leaving them having to guess. I hate that if the system never works again that I will have a flashing idiot light for the rest of the time I own the truck. Etc. I will update after the new parts go in. Harry
  11. Never buy a truck based upon whether or not your wife can climb up into it. If you do, then you might just as well get a Silverado and join up with the other soccer moms.......just sayin'. Realistically, the retractable running board option will do just fine...it goes down lower and has a wider step. My feeble wife gets in just fine using it.
  12. Good advice! Thanks. There might have been something plugged in. I'll watch for it. Harry
  13. I understand your frustration! I think I'd be set aback myself if I paid that much for plastic. But, as many have said, they seem to work ok. I myself like the standard King Ranch wheels and couldn't see any reason to "upgrade" to a different wheel that would have been bigger as well resulting in even more expensive tires when replacement time comes around. Anyhow, thanks for the warning. I know what not to order in the future. Harry
  14. There, you see.....guess I'm still a dinosaur! I actually prefer ammeters since they show the actual load on the system. Used to be important when running aftermarket lighting and such. And yeah, modern alternators are great...but the one in my 2005 Expedition went bad last fall, at night, after 225,000 miles.....and I'd like to have had a meter as I crossed my fingers while running with no headlights and trying to get home. Anyhow, I just think that an $80,000 truck would have one, even if for no other reason than to make the gauge cluster look even more cool!
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