DCP

Wow. Thank you. I needed to apply the brakes after connecting the trailer to make it work. I never would have guessed that.

Thanks, but it isn't that smart. On my trailer, that circuit powers loading lights. When I plug in the trailer, the tail lights and signals all work, but the loading lights circuit is dead. I plugged the trailer into my Suburban and the loading lights worked, so there is something needed in the truck to energize the circuit.

Thanks. I checked that because adding a fuse was what I had to do in my last Suburban. In the Navigator there was a fuse there already, but no power in the 7 pin harness so there must be something more you have to do.

It's a 2018. Nothing provided and the list of fuses wasn't helpful. Thanks for the comment.

Anyone know how to turn on the constant power in the 7 pin connector?

I had the exterior mirror problem with the glass seemingly trying to adjust past its limit and keep trying yesterday for the first time. Folding and unfolding the mirrors resolved the problem. There is a mention in the owner's manual about doing this to reset the mirrors. The suggestion in the manual is that manually moving the mirrors can result in needing a reset. I could have bumped it, I guess. I have not had any of the other problems you describe.

I just realized that P and N are smooth buttons and R and D are ridged. Maybe you can shift without looking.

That appears to be true, but there is no harm in doing so and it gives a bit of peace of mind. That's why I chose to change it.

Having just done my early oil change, I thought I would follow up. Unlike every other Ecoboost 3.5 I found on the net, the Lincoln has a metal oil pan and metal drain plug. The weird part is that I went to the Lincoln parts department to buy a replacement plastic drain plug. After looking it up, he ordered and sold me two, now useless, plastic drain plugs. Except for needing to remove two sound insulation panels, one under the back of the engine and transmission and the other under the front of the engine because that is were the oil filter is, the oil change was as with any other car. You don't really need to remove the front panel, but I was afraid that it would get oil on it from the filter area. Removing the panels was easy. Both have four bolts. Access to the oil filter is good. It was on a little more than hand tight, but there is plenty of room for the pliers style oil filter removal tool, so no trouble at all.

You do have to look at it to shift. While I would prefer a system where you could shift by feel, after a short period it became a complete non-issue for us.

Arrows and words in the HUD. No map.

I bought the folding Intro-tech from autoanything.com. Works well. Had to call the Intro-tech manufacturer to ask what the model option of "with sensor" means. You want the one with the sensor assuming you have the lane departure features.

I usually change the oil on a new vehicle at 1,000 miles and, being a car nerd, I do it myself. The plastic drain plug on this one has me confused. When I look online, some say pry the lower ear out, some say push both ears in, and some say just twist the drain plug off and use pliers if needed. Anyone know the correct way? I am assuming that the correct way also entails replacing the drain plug, correct? Finally, anyone know if panels need to be removed underneath? Thanks in advance.