Drewbabich

I have a 2011 Ford Fusion Hybrid that I need to replace the radiator and I am a little hung up after removing the bumper cover the front bumper and both the headlights. This radiator support wraps all the way around the three radiators. I don't know the correct way to remove the radiator support , the fans and how to separate the front two "coolers" (ac condenser and transmission cooler i am guessing?) I have done a ton of Radiators on Dodge Caravans and Highlander hybrids and they were pretty simple where all you need to do was take the top radiator support off and the fans and then you can get the radiator out off of the support beam it rests on pretty easily......but this car looks like a different kind of animal. I can get the radiator support cover off this fusion.... But then there is NOTHING supporting these three radiators as the radiator support bracket seems to hang from the top of the engine bay and is held in place by the front bumper. 1. Do i need to disconnect the transmission cooler lines to get this thing off? 2. Do i need to support the radiators with some blocks of wood or something if im gonna remove the radiator support cover? 3. Are you supposed to remove the radiator without removing the radiator support cover? I can't find anyone discussing this or any YouTube videos to guide me through it

Hi i have a 2011 fusion hybrid and the front portion of the seat won't go down or up. (It's all the way up right now, 6 of the 8 way power seat functions are working correctly) You can feel it vibrating when you signal it to move up or down but it doesn't move. The motor hums and vibrates like it's bound up. I unbolted the seat and nothing is binding it up. I tapped the middle motor with a hammer but still no luck. The forward/ reverse and rear up/down works fine How do trouble shoot this farther or is it just designed that you need to replace the entire seat track motor assembly?  This is the middle motor and i can't see any way to take it apart to look for broken gears or jambed motor internals

Can you reset the trouble codes on a 2011 ford fusion hybrid yourself? There has to be a way right? I'm struggling and failing at reseting my "service powersteering" "service advance trac" trouble codes... I've tried disconnecting the battery overnight. I've touched the terminal wires together as i've seen instructed. I've also tried a foxwell scanner NT510 but i don't have the ford software on it yet so its useless for this. On my toyota hybrids you can jumper the holes in obdII port and hit the brake like 8 times to reset abs lights etc etc but i'm finding no good advice on ford hybrid trouble code resets I've also noticed that the car stays powered up even with the accessory battery completely disconnected..... i never seen that before on my toyota hybrids... no wonder i can't clear anything. This thing has the memory of a steel trap. Does this pull power off the traction battery when the accessory battery is disconnected? What triggered the codes was getting a flat tire and driving 1000 feet on the flat. I installed a new tire and the tpms light went away so i know thats fixed and working ok so i figure i most likely don't have a powersteering or advancetrac issue.... i just need to reset some tripped codes....

So going with your diagnostic recommendation I should sit the car on each control arm one at a time and turn the steering wheel lock to lock till I hear any clicking/shifting movement noises? i do like that idea. I just want to make sure that’s what you mean and that that is ok on the existing control arms

Thanks for insulting my intelligence. I know this thread is getting long.... but as I’ve said I’m not hearing noise while diagnosing in the driveway stationary but they sound off like crazy while driving very slowly. But I would be happy to try putting weight on the control arm and moving the steering wheel. Is that ok to put all that weight on these individual control arms that are only each supported by one bushing and one ball joint? -When I turn the wheel while stationary on the ground and also while jacked up I don’t hear any noises. - I’ve held the control arms while the the wheel is turned, I can’t feel any wear or play in the bushings or ball joints. - I ONLY hear noise while the car is being driven left or right in slow short radius circles. The noise is steady while the wheels are held steady at a sharp angle in a turn. The noise is posted in the link in the first post.

When I get home I’m gonna open up the hood, lay across the engine bay with my head over the strut mount and have my gf drive in figure 8s in the parking lot to see if I can confirm which side and rule out the strut mount as well.

That’s good advice on the moog Doorman motorcraft parts. 10 years ago when I last had a ford (zx2) I remember not being that impressed with moog tie rods, but I can’t remember for sure if they failed early. How long of service life were you seeing with doorman and moog ball joints vs the motorcraft ? With a good quality pickle fork, smashing out these ball joints looks pretty easy. You just leave the lower bolt on loose to protect the cv shaft. The front forward one looks the easiest with no requirement of dropping the subframe. I’m thinking I’m gonna order that part and play the guessing game with that first. Another question: does the upper ball joint rarely fail? I haven’t seen anyone discussing this upper control arm causing issues.

Sweet thanks for that info ford tech 1. What’s the best trick to getting them out? cant you just wail on it from the nut side with a bfh and replace the sleeve with new if it pops out? Ive seen the ball joint press used online. I’ve also seen you need to be careful that it does not fly straight up and smash into your cv joint boot. What do you do advise to protect from that? what does a ford tech do to best diagnose if the control arms are in need of replacement or not before ordering the new parts installed? And lastly I see motorcraft forward lower control arms for 120 and moogs and mevotech and Dormans for 40 to 60 bills..... I’m planning to run this forever... should I go motorcraft ?

Questions on strut bearing noises vs ball joint vs rubber bushing noises? My inner right Tie rod had some play in it so I replaced that just now (I was excited hoping it would fix my issue )but it still makes the noise. to be more specific: It only makes a noise when the wheels are turned anywhere between 100 to 80 % fully turned left or right. And it’s not like it only makes noise while I’m cranking on the steering wheel to change tire angles. When I hold the wheel steady at a set turn angle , say 80% turned left or right it creaks creaks creaks. Is that typical of a bad strut bearing? I don’t hear aaaaany noise when I make small turns or turn the wheel while stationary. Only while wheel is at near full turn. I crawled under the car and put my hand on each lower control arm while another person Turned the steering wheel trying to feel any play in the control arms to control arm-bushings or ball joints I could not feel anything like I felt on the tie rod. That was obvious My sway bar and sway bar links felt tight -online I’ve read that it could be rubber bushing related And some people have success spraying the bushing with WD-40 or lithium grease? - I have also read that the front forward lower control arm ball joint seems to be the infamous cause of a lot of peoples Mystery noises....if I was gonna throw parts at my problem and say a prayer that is where im leaning to next.... but I’d rather know I’m fixing the right stuff first - or is it more likely strut bearings? (I Would think strut bearing would make a lot of noise while you are actively turning the steering wheel, not when you are moving through a steady turn....)

I jacked up the front end and checked for play and couldn’t find any. I figured out this car has a pretty sophisticated suspension with 6 front ball joints. I was convinced it must be ball joints so pumped grease via a needle into the 4 lower ball joints.... no luck though it still creaks when I’m doing slow figure 8s in a parking lot. It creaks whether I’m hitting bumps or not while hard turning. Creaks on smooth pavement. Sounds terrible but the car rides great. Doesn’t wander on highway and tread wear looks even. Can’t imagine it’s tie rods Im new to ford, I’m used to doing bearings galore on my Toyota’s Highlander’s. Ive replaces worn stut bearings but never a strut mount, that’s def possible. It seems to be coming from the right side but makes same noise on hard left and right turns equally. There are so many things to scratch my head at and question if that’s the issue I’m real stumped. I’ve taken several toyotas as taxis between 265,000 and 400000 miles and I’ve never had this creaking before. This MKZ rides great and know it will go the long haul I just gotta learn this suspension better

Is this likely ball joints making noise ? I plan to grease them with a grease gun and needle but don’t wanna pierce my ball joint rubber if im wrong ! 2011 Lincoln MKZ hybrid with 140,000 miles creaking when doing slow figure eights in parking lot. First half of video im doing a 5 mph right turn then I do a 5 mph left turn No noise when turning the wheels while stationary or when going over 10 mph. Nothing seems to be rubbing in the fender wells. When turning left or right it’s the same noise. The suspension feels tight and quiet over horrible roads at speed. I have no idea what this creaking noise is. Is this likely ball joint control arm issues? Power steering rack related? I’m stumped https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=38tQrKIQWEs