HoustonPerson

I know that the 2011/12 woofer is on the back floor right side. Did Ford figure out how to get it stuffed behind the seat back and "not" on the floor? For a fully flat floor? Thanks

The problem is real and it is well documented. However with that said; this problem will occur much less often in Kansas than it does in SE Texas. The condensation issue (along with all the problems it creates), has been reported by others in Kansas. It will be entirely dependent upon “your” specific driving situation(s). Specifically, if you will doing steady state driving (constant 60MPH appears to be the worse), for long periods of time (the longer the better) where the dew point equals (or is very close to) ambient air temperature, it will happen every time – no exceptions – period end of story. That is why I made the statement I made: I will not purchase another EcoBoost until I see Ford get aggressive is testing and solving the problem. And I see an entirely “new” CAC on the engine. Otherwise it does not work for me.

I will not purchase another vehicle with an intercooler (Eco Boost) again, unless I am thoroughly convinced it can operate and function correctly where the dew point equals the ambient air temperature for “hours” at a time. That type of driving condition is normal for SE Texas from 3AM to 8AM better than 50% of the time for at least a couple of hundred miles of driving. It is very disappointing the total lack of real world testing for the F150 EcoBoost. It is completely inexcusable the engineers missed this. It is even more disappointing that Ford has not advised its Houston dealers as to what is going on concerning this critical issue. None of the dealers have any methods whatsoever to test for this condition.

Regarding MPGs: Basically the same here. At only 2,700 miles my Trip B is 18.5 MPG. Also, my last three Ford’s trip computer and hand calculations are essentially the same, and the newest truck seems to be the most accurate.

Need help with surging problem My truck has the intermittent surging issue. I understand there are a TSB 12-2-10 (dated 2/15/2012) and an OASIS message #4204 (dated ??) that may address the issue? With the posting of “incomplete” information on the net, the two items above appear to be in some conflict? But there is no way for me to tell without the actual documents. Can someone please email those to me? Also, when the engine does have these periods of fits (surging), why can’t this be captured by SYNC Vehicle Health Report so Ford has a record of it and they can see firsthand what is going on? It is easy enough for me to send a “Vehicle Health” while the truck is having this “surging fit”.

I would guess they are trying to fix the “intermittent surging” nightmare (with and without clogged left cat) that the latest TSB is supposed to help? Consider yourself lucky if it resolves the problem. I am still trying to find a dealer that knows anything about it, and can fix it! And my truck is just 3 months old!

It is probably all ok. How did it do on the first tank of gas from the dealer? What part of the country are you in? temps? humidity? dew point? etc I assume you are basic regular E10 (and not E85)? Regular mirrors or Tow mirrors? Bed covers or toppers? or other mods to the truck? Also, you may want to compare the 2H and 4Automatic (not 4H) for mpgs? And of course breakin will help some, and throw in some spells of speed........take it up to 90 a few times and/or lower gears at 40-60 etc.......it likes that.

Thanks for the feedback. I thought it might be just a pressure fit, even though the sections above the other three doors are so tight, almost to the point I thought they may be glued in place. Regarding the steering issue: It appears to be an electrical issue of some kind, and as of now it has fixed itself. At least the last 500 miles has been fine – no more “full power steering” all the time, it is finally tight on the hi-way. SYNC has also been sketchy at best. I have pretty well learned all its software bugs and work around them. One Ford SYNC Rep told me a software patch would come out soon for my truck, the last Ford Rep I spoke with said there were no patches or upgrades planned in the foreseeable future. When I take the truck in, I will see if the dealer has any solutions. If not I can live without it.

Weather Stripping What is the correct attachment method? This question is on the large thick weather stripping that runs from the top corner at the A pillar to the top back corner of the C pillar. The part is attached to the truck body, not on the doors. When washing the truck, I noticed water running in behind that weather stripping above the left rear door, and the weather stripping was a little wavy, not straight and smooth like it was on the front door, both doors open. It’s all one piece front to back. When I touched that section of weather stripping above the rear door. it just fell off, but was still attached at the C pillar, I imagine with a button snap? Upon much closer inspection of the weather stripping on both sides of the truck, above the other three doors, I think the weather stripping is actually glued in place? Those sections do not just fall off the truck. In fact, on the driver’s side of the truck at the B pillar forward, the weather stripping is firmly attached to the truck body and does not fall off. So the question is: Is this section of weather stripping just a press fit only OR should adhesive be applied to the back side of the weather stripping to hold it in place?

On the return trip from Dallas, it looks like the EPAS has fixed itself. The 100% power assist it had at hi-way speed, is now reduced by 80% or more. Nice tight and firm, more or less like it should be; it now has a very nice feel to it. Still turns a little too quick for my taste at that speed; but at least now it does not feel like sliding around on ice all the time or like driving in strong wind when there is none. Now with 1,400 miles on the truck maybe all the parts and electronics had to break themselves in? I have no idea?

I will be going on an extended 500-600 mile trip the next few days. If it still bothers me, I will take to the dealer and see if anything can be done about it. If I were to guess it is either a software (maybe wiring) problem or a steering gear problem (switches sensors etc). It’s ashamed they don’t catch this stuff at the factory.

I wish there was “no assist” at hi-way speed. I am much more inclined to think the “power assists” is 100% “ON” the instant the steering wheel is touched. AFAIK the alignment and tires are fine. All things mechanical look fine.

EPAS Can it be adjusted by the Dealer? If I have one complaint about the power steering it would be: It is excessively “over sensitive” at hi-way speed (60-70MPH), on flat concrete with zero wind. All other driving conditions it is fair to ok. If I let go of the steering wheel the truck will drive straight and true; but if I touch the wheel and move it the smallest amount (say ¼” either direction), the truck will take off and move 2-3 feet. I guess another description would be “Super Power Steering” or “Power Steering Overkill”. There are times it is actually spooky. Is there some type of easy adjustment the dealer can make to tone it down, and make the Power Steering more “Normal” and not be so Super Assisted? Only have about 800 miles on the truck and it has been that way since I got it.

Thanks DearbornD

Two Windshield Questions on my XLT EcoScrew. Today was the first day I washed the truck, so I got to see it very close and personal. Anyway, I notice the Windshield sits on a thin rubber membrane like thing, maybe 1/16” thick; but there is a space about ¼” on both sides, and a little less space at the top. Is there supposed to be some sort of molding fill-in there? Are the FX2/4, Lariat, Platinum constructed the same way? Thanks.

Ok, I think I have this oil thing figured out..............the 946-A oil is replacing the 929-A oil as a newer stronger better oil for the turbo etc. A new GF-5 rating instead of GF-4 rating. So I will go for the 5W30 GF-5 946-A stuff. http://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/main/product.asp?product=SAE 5W-30 Premium Synthetic Blend Motor Oil&category=Motor Oil Sorry can't seem to make the Motorcraft link work; but you should be able to find it. The link below might get you there? http://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/main/category.asp?select=%5BMotor%20Oil%5D

Thanks guys for the info. I will use the 5W30 Synthetic Blend then. And since it will most likely be at the Ford Dealer it will be the brand they use. The Ford Specs are the important part. I notice in the owners manual this is the 4th printing, September 2011. Quite a few typos in it, really don't think anyone proofs them too closley. For example page 382 & page 415 says oil spec is WSS-M2C929-A; but page 418 says WSS-M2C946-A. The last one listed I assume is the type-O?

Ok, I got a new F150 XLT SuperCrew 4x2 with 3.55 LS axle. So far with only 280 miles on it……..it is by far the best made truck I have ever owned. The only thing missing is the 4x4 and the dual leather seats, but the economy sucks and we had to cut way back. So far this truck does run perfect, and the MPG are super excellent, now I want to keep it that way. I know this truck takes 5w/30 oil. Does the factory put in conventional oil, synthetic blend, or full synthetic oil? Also, what kind of gas is in it? And what did the dealer put in it (or what should they have put in it)? I plan to use “tier 1” gasoline, and if it is running this great on regular, I will keep it that way. My towing requirements will be minimal, almost never. The reason I am asking is that I want to keep it running just like it is now, MPG and all………and do this well into the future. BTW, my truck was made in Dearborn September 29, 2011

Sorry, this is a real dumb question: I got a new F150 XLT SuperCrew. The small tray that keeps the Fuel Funnel under the back seat also has a small gray plastic “thing” – about 3” long and about half inch wide, with 3 plastic prongs on it. Sort like it clips on to something? What is that “thing”?

It takes a “real” automotive AC person to find and understand the problem. Sounds like the compressor turning “on” and “off” is a symptom and not the cause? Sounds like the compressor is receiving a command to turn “on” and “off”? Seriously, it almost sounds like that “needle” valve thingy making the pressure switch “act out” and sending a command to the compressor? I am not a “real” automotive AC person, so just relating my own experience. So perhaps it is the same problem.

Side Note: I would like to point out that before they had gotten to the problem (that throttling valve thing - clogging); a simple evacuation and recharge had absolutely no effect on solving the problem. That was done 3 times prior to actually fixing the problem. It was not until those parts were replaced, then followed by evacuation and recharge was the problem fixed.

It is sort of funny and sad that basic service can be such low quality, that plus sometimes poor assembly from the factory and/or bad parts can make things a real pain. I had the “exact” same problem with my 2004 F150, my very expensive special order dream truck. The AC could be working perfectly and then suddenly get warm, maybe stay that way the rest of the day (like on a trip), and the next time stop and start it up it would be working perfectly again. It took the first 60-90 days and a dozen trips to figure it out. They replaced “all” the O Rings in the Freon lines and what I recall as a pressure switch along with a “throttling valve” (sort of a needle valve) that controls the Freon inside the system. The “inside” of the system would freeze up because the moisture inside the system would periodically freeze inside that valve. There is not supposed to be “any” moisture or any other contaminates inside the system. A tell tale give away to the problem would be “big bumps” in the road. Hitting a big bump could make it change from working perfectly to not working at all and back again. The explanation given would be “jarring” that ice free or clogging it up again.

I was interested in the 2011’s because of the additional savings-promotionals. I was trying to find out if dealers could still place orders for 2011. I notice some were still being made in Dearborn as late as last week, I think? I have been placed into a situation that I have to trade trucks. While there are absolutely “none” of the 2011 F150 in SE Texas I want, there are about 30 in the Dallas area and all of those were made in September 2011, many last week.

Availability and placing orders: What is the last day of production for the 2011 F150? What is the first day of production for the 2012 F150? What is the last day “dealers” can place orders for 2011 F150? Thank you

Ok, thanks for the replies. Now let me see if I got this correct. All four tires on the ground for having the truck “towed” is fair enough – no problem there. The “4 Auto” selection on the switch makes it a AWD – meaning you can drive on any surface type traction, turn corners, etc. For example: A nice feature for the wife, driving over “iced” bridges and then onto dry pavement. She would no longer have to engage and disengage the “switch” etc. That one feature would most likely move me to select the Lariat over the FX4, just for the wife. Well maybe – LOL.