BradCO

Yes it can be done, but you'll have to buy an interface. Just google ford navigation camera interface. And they are costly.

Just in case you don't know, there is a second usb port on the sync module. You can use it to run a cable up to the glovebox for an external hard drive or flash or whatever. I have all the info on a pdf file, but it's 12mb, and too large to attach. If you want it, just shoot me an email. Use usb on the subject or I may delete it.

Here's the part number. 7A2Z-14407-MA This is not a job for any amateur. I don't know your skill level, but I'll fill you in on the high spots. First off, I think it sells for over $250. The main connection is almost to the firewall inside the right frame rail. There are multiple connections there. One of the connectors is too large to go over the frame rail, trust me I tried everything. The only way around this is to either: back off a cab mount enough to raise it for clearance, or disconnect it from the back first and move the entire harness forward far enough to clear at a spot at the firewall. Where it crosses over the frame by the gas tank is a pain. You will also run into a connector above the gas tank that you will either have to disconnect/connect by feel, or use a mirror. The spare tire has to come out. It can certainly be done, but it takes patience and time. Let me say that the dealer I bought mine from provided me with the replacement hitch and the wiring harmess for free. I did all the labor. They are a small dealer and don't have a body shop. The hitch involved taking the back bumper off among other things, and I didn't want the guy that vacuums cars to be tearing my new truck apart. I have 30 years collision repair experience, so neither of these jobs were a challenge for me, just time consuming. I got a killer deal on the truck in exchange, so it all worked out. You were smart to do the modification on the hitch. There is absolutely no difference in the two hitches except the size of the receiver and there is a hole through the x-member for the 7-pin hookup. You could have your guy do that also. It's just a hole, but it is enclosed, probably to retain the strength of the bar. Just go to a dealer and take a picture. You will also need the bracket that holds the connector if you want it to look factory. The 7-pin setup includes both a 7 pin and a flat 4. The flat 4 is relocated under the x-member. It was a lot of work, but I'm glad I did it now. The dealer wanted to put a 7 pin adapter assy on instead of the factory harness. But the charging circuit and electronic brake setup are already there, in the cab. It would have been a hodge-podge setup to do it non-oem. Let me know if you need any more info.

The wiring harness is completely different for the 7-pin. They are a complete assembly that plugs in under the cab and runs clear to the rear. No conversion kits. I know because I changed mine. I also changed to the 2 inch class III from the class I. I have the part # if you want, but it's not cheap. And not an easy change.