bluspikez

Does the AWD Fusion have a display to show the torque splits? When I drove a 2013 Escape AWD/4WD for a week, I found it very interesting to watch the "Intelligent 4WD" display to see just where the power was going. How does it distribute power in the Fusion? Pretty equal all around?

Yep they are cheap and are universal for most any vehicle that has an OBDII port (I've used it on lots of different vehicles, both domestic and imports). I bought mine off of Amazon a year or so back. I've heard that the cheap ones are kind of a crap shoot for whether or not you'll get something that will work (cheapie knock-off copy stuff from China). I haven't had any trouble with mine and a buddy of mine hasn't had problems with his either. I think the "reliable" ones run about $100 for the adapter. I believe the Torque app is free for the normal version and $5 for the pro version that unlocks a few more things from Google Play.

Yep, the health report will do it for you. Might take some time for the update to propagate through, it didn't show up right away on syncmyride for me.

I know that prices were changing as of the beginning of 2013, but I haven't been able to dig up anything that says that in writing or has the specifics. Also, like akirby said, I know that employee pricing (A or X plan) is a pretty fixed deal, where you just get charged whatever the price is that Ford established with the dealers. That being said, I don't think you're overreacting. I'd be asking for something that shows the details (not sure where this could come from). My main reason for posting, though, is that my Fusion is in Sterling Grey. I find it to be an extremely beautiful color. It looks stunning when clean and does a pretty good job of hiding the dirt when it's dirty. The flake appears to have some silvers, golds and blues in it. Here's some photos (of somewhat questionable quality, thanks to my iPhone camera):

Another way to get to it would be to go through owner.ford.com. After registering (this is the same registration you'd need for www.syncmyride.com) you can put in the VINs of any Ford vehicles you have and pull the associated documentation for them.

I'll also add some fuel to the fire here...my Titanium seems to be dead on with the EPA estimates in my testing. I've run a few short test cycles with city and highway duty, and they all seem to jive with what's expected. My first city run was probably 10mi and was through typical city driving (stop/go at lights, 25-45mph speed limits, little to no elevation change) on a ride to work (car cold before leaving). I tried to be conscious of fuel usage, but wasn't trying to hypermile either. I pulled into the parking lot and after getting into a spot the computer read 21.9mpg. The second test was later that day, and also was around 10mi long and through a similar course (again, cold start). This time, though, I drove her as I would any other time and was a bit more liberal with the throttle. As expected, this dropped the economy a bit, but as I pulled in to home the dash read 21.6mpg average. The first highway run was roughly 15mi, on the freeway with the cruise set at 70mph. This stretch is relatively flat, with just a few rolling hills throughout (very little elevation change). I reset the economy gauge once I reached speed, and as I rolled to a stop at my exit, the dash read 33.5mpg. The second run was over this same stretch, and was measured in a similar way where I reset the economy gauge once at speed, but this time I set the cruise at 75mph. When I came to a stop at home, the dash reading was somewhere between 29 and 30 mpg. As mentioned above in the thread, I expected the cold, winter blend fuel and break in on the car (around 1500mi on her now) to cause the mileage to drop. Also, I have snow tires on the car, which certainly won't be any better than the all seasons for fuel economy. All things considered, I'm quite pleased with these numbers.

I've been lurking on this forum for quite a while now, but finally joined to post some interesting findings I made today. I own a bluetooth-based OBDII adapter, which I have paired to an old Android phone. When I have this adapter plugged in to the car and I run the right app on the phone (it's called Torque, for those who are interested), not only am I able to read the DTCs stored on the ECU, but I'm also able to access a bunch of realtime data going over the bus. I have this old phone set up as an additional gauge cluster, giving me such information as boost/vacuum pressure, throttle %, intake air temp, etc. Here's a photo of the gauges I set up: Having this customizable gauge cluster is quite useful and informative, but it obviously isn't directly related to this thread. The interesting part of this, though, and what's related to this thread, is the fuel gauge that I can pull from the realtime data. As you can see in the photo, it was reading around 87%. That number wouldn't normally be interesting, but in this case it was, as this was right after a fill-up and the short drive back home (not even a mile). Before the fill up, that gauge read around 12% or 13%, and that was when the dash read 5 MTE (12-13% comes out to be right on 2gal, which seems like a logical amount for the 'reserve' tank). After the fill (which was 12.35gal; the pump shut off slightly before and I rounded off to the nearest dollar), the guage on the dash didn't even touch full, while, as mentioned, the OBDII/CAN data for fuel level read less than 90%. I think this can confirm that the fuel tank isn't getting completely full at most pumps. I have noticed that how far the nozzle is inserted seems to play a big part in having the pump click off early for me. If I put it in as far as possible it will pretty consistently shut off way early at most any pump. I have the best luck putting the nozzle in all the way, then backing it out a bit. I think the fuel filler neck design on our cars is very sensitive to this, and to get it to act correctly with the pump shut-off we need to determine the proper insertion depth. On my next visit to the pumps, I'm going to try and keep the car on in accessory mode (engine off, of course) in hopes that I can still read the fuel level realtime data. This will help me to figure out just how much is actually in the tank when the pump goes off, and how much more could possibly go in.