Anthony Masotti

You are right in that the amp is built into the front audio control module. As for the remote on. Look for a fuse in your inside fuse box that operates something only when the ignition is on. You can use that as a remote wire. I did not run all new speaker wire, just new wire from each crossover to the speakers inside each door. Make sure that your signal wires and power wires are on different sides of the car. You also need to make sure you have a good ground. Preferably make a new one so you don't get engine feedback from something they might have used.

Here are the 06' removal instructions. 06' C Pillar Removal.pdf 06' Rear Deck Removal.pdf

Here are the instructions. Start with the upper then the lower then the deck. Lower+C+pillar+Removal.pdf Rear+Deck+Removal.pdf Upper+C+Pillar+Removal.pdf

All of the plastic trim on the dash can be removed with a trim screw driver. The side panels are simple to remove. they to are just held on by clips. Once you get them removed the rear deck simply slides forward with the rear seats folded.

The amp enable wire is the same as the remote wire. I did tie in at a different point however. I did not want my amps staying on through startup or after cutting the car off for any period so I tied in on an ignition only circuit for my remote.

I tied back in to the other side of where is spliced for the signal and just used the existing wires to the doors.

The three inputs to the SSI are from 1. Front Tweeters 2. Front Mids 3. Rear Mids. On the RCA output from the Clean Sweep I put a RCA splitter. One to the amp for the sub and one for the amp for everything else. The Clean Sweep puts out a very "hot" signal so there is plenty of signal to split.

The Clean sweep is specifically designed to eliminate unwanted noise and give you a pure flat signal to the amps to then go to the speakers. If you tell me what areas you need diagrams of I can get them for you. Like I said there are 44 pages so I do not want to post all of them because it takes a little time to convert to be able to post. Now after looking over the diagrams again. You can bypass the active noise cancellation all together by splicing in behind the cd player instead. This will make the scratching noise stop. It will not give you the clearest signal but it will work with the amps. The Clean Sweep and signal summing unit go together even though they are sold separately. The two together are $400 and some change. I picked them because they had the best reviews specs. I will sell mine since I have no need for it. I can also sell all of the speaker wires and connectors needed to run everything. I had everything mounted to the underside of my rear deck so that when you opened the trunk you never saw it. It also allowed me to simply disconnect my sub and pull it out leaving only the signal wires for it if I needed my whole trunk. I had everything in there for 5 months and just recently decided I wanted the Explorer so I have already pulled everything out and packed it up. Let me know what you would want to pay for the Clean Sweep and I'll see if I can do it or not.

I do not have the Active Noise Cancellation in my car so I do not have the Audio Signal Processor. You are right that to tie in back the if you do have it. The one thing to keep in mind to tie in after the processor not before. Amplified signals can fry the Audio Signal Processor. With that said, your Active Noise Cancellation will not really be working because the JL Audio Clean Sweep will eliminate that part of the signal before it makes it to the amps and speakers. Without having Active Noise Cancellation the best place to tie in is right behind the dash. Attached are files with step by step Dash, Front, and Rear Door removal. Also attached is a simple wiring diagram. I cant attach much more than that because it is 44 pages and would require a good deal of ford knowledge to read. The diagram is a great reference for which color wires go where. When you pull out the cd player (Front Audio Control Module) The cable that is plugged in on the drivers side is the one that contains all the speaker wires. If you splice for signal in and out about 3" down from the connector then you will have plenty of room to reconnect if you ever remove like I just did. Everything is back in like new now with no issues. All of my stuff is for sale if anyone has any interest feel free to let me know. Hope the diagrams help and let me know if I can be anymore help. I wouldn't have the Fusion much longer (trading in for Explorer Sport), but I will remain on here for assistance. Good Luck. Fusion Dash Removal.pdf Fusion Dash Removal.pdf Fusion Front Door Removal.pdf Audio Cable Diagram.pdf

Mine does not have Active Noise Cancellation, but I assume it would because you are picking up your signal to the JL Audio Clean Sweep where it outputs to the speakers. At that point the noise cancellation would have already been processed by the Front Audio Control Module. I work for a Ford Dealership, so we spent a good bit of time trying to make sure that this setup would work properly with any configuration. One of our techs plans to do a very similar setup with his SE Hybrid soon.

I have added a sub woofer to my 2013 Fusion SE with MFT. It was a bit of a chore but got it done and love it. I wasn't happy with the stereo at all being a bit of an audiophile. I riped out everything factory and started over. Here is a list and basic instructions for the install. Things used: 1 JL Audio Clean Sweep (CL441dsp) This gives you a completely flat EQ out to your amps 1 JL Audio Clean Sweep (CL-SSI) This takes all speaker signals and allows you to adjust their volume to match. 1 Rockford Fosgate T400-4 (This is for all the door speakers) 1 Rockford Fosgate T500-1bdCP (This is for the subwoofer) 1 Rockford Fosgate T1D210 ( 10" 2ohm subwoofer) 1 Box of your choosing (I went with a Sealed one for better sound quality) 2 Rockford Fosgate T2652-S ( These are 6.5" components since the Fusions all have a spot for a tweeter in all four doors.) Installation: 1 Power wires are run down the driver side of the car inside to a power block underneath the rear deck. There is a grommet right behind the battery in the engine compartment that has enough room for a small hole and power wires. Had to remove the battery to get to it. 2 Signal wires to the JL Audio Clean Sweep are pigtailed into the harness right behind the touch screen. 3 Installed all amps and Clean Sweep to the underside of the rear deck lid to keep everything neat and clean looking 4 Opened up all the doors to put in new speaker and discovered that you have to cut the factory ones out. The mounting ring that spaces them away from the door has to be used so there is enough room to mount the new speakers. The tweeters fit into the slots in the back right behind the grate. The ones in the front have a factory one that has to be pried out first. Crossover was mounted directly to the door skin out of the way. 5 Ran new speaker wire to all four doors coming down the passenger side of the car. 6 The Clean Sweep has a gain control witch I mounted in the spot opposite of where the parking brake switch is. The status light is also mounted there. (This is optional. You can put these in the trunk instead or under the dash. 7 Ran wire for sub with a little to spare so I could easily move the box and disconnect for use of the whole trunk space. 8 Signal wires for the amps and Clean sweep are tied to the ignition circuit with an inline fuse. 9 The Clean Sweep comes with built in protection against back feed to MFT and also has a cd to calibrate the first time. Once you connect to the amps and calibrate you can adjust the amps to your liking 10 ENJOY!!!!!! You defiantly don't have to use the stuff I did as far a speakers subs and amps but the Clean Sweep is a must to even out the EQ and protect against back feed to MFT. I like the quality I get out of this setup, and have placed best in show for how clean the install was with such great performance. defiantly not what people expect to hear.