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Found 68 results


    Hello from the Seattle area!

    Picked up this 2017 Fusion SE 1.5 EcoBoost with the Luxury Package a couple weeks! Only had 17,8xx when we picked it up, and I recently washed, and waxed it.
  2. Trailhiker

    Exhaust Noise/Air Filter Change

    I changed the air filter in my Fusion this month. Seemed easy, two clips hold it in place. It rained the next couple days, so I did not have my windows down while driving. The third day after, it was sunny, and I had the windows down to let in the air. That is when I heard a noise. It was similar to an exhaust leak, or a hole in the muffler. I was thinking I'd have to take the car in for service, as I could see no holes or rusted connections. Then I remembered the air filter change. I popped the hood, and looked at it. Sure enough, it was clipped in, but the back side part was not in the grooves. I adjusted and re-clipped, and sure enough, the noise went away.I feel dumb, but lesson learned!
  3. jcartwright99

    2017 Fusion Transmission Maintence

    With 30,000 miles rapidly approaching in my 2017 Fusion 2.0, I decided to start looking around at the maintenance schedule and what would be needed in severe driving. I living in the Chicago area and in stop and go traffic all the time and sometimes can really drive aggressive so I wanted to make sure I did my part to ensure my transmission has a long life. Ford Quicklane recommended that I do a trans flush. However, on a Fusion forum everyone seems to recommend a drain and fill around 30,000 or every year in some cases. Some say flushes can be counter productive with that transmission. The most recommended process I've read is something a do it yourselfer could do pretty easily. Drain the fluid and replace amount drained with new Ford (or Amsoil) fluid. Do this 3 times to ensure all fluid has been changed. In between each time drive about 1k. Theoritcally, your fluid will be completely changed. Repeat process every 30,000 miles. Now, I know it's the internet and everyone has their way of doing things so what works for some might not work for others. Does anyone know any negative effects of doing a flush with this transmission? What are the benefits of just doing a drain and fill? It of course has no dipstick to check fill which is annoying. Any thoughts or first hand experience is appreciated.
  4. Hey Everyone. The horn on my 2014 Fusion Ti no longer performs the way it should and only gives out a wimpy high pitch sound. So I bought a new assembly to replace it. My question is: how do I get to the horn to replace it? I know it's located around the wheel well on the front driver side but I'm not sure if it's just a matter of taking the tire and well cover off or if there's more to it. Has anyone had to do this yet? Looking at the new assembly seems the install is pretty easy once I get to it (just bolt it on and snap in the harness) but I could use some help getting to it. Thanks in advance!
  5. bill27@me.com


    After about 4 years of flawless performance, my Ford Fusion navigation is getting lost. The arrow of where I am deviates from the road by several blocks to the right or left of my actual path and usually or one or so blocks behind my actual location. If the navigation system is trying to give me directions to a known location, the system tries to get me back on the correct road -- the one I am actually on. This makes for very confusing directions that must be ignored. What can be done? Some time ago I had an electronics problem and the Service department told me to disconnect the battery for about 15 minutes and then reconnect it. That fixed the system then; should I try the same now? Bill27@me.com
  6. rp2388

    4D Tech Sync MFT Upgrade

    While watching some youtube videos, I ran across this. https://www.4dtech.com/13-15-ford-fusion-sync-3-upgrade-for-myford-touch/ Just wondering if anyone on here has tried it and what your experience has been so far. If you have NAV, since it's no longer an SD card system, do you just buy a USB key to update the maps or how does it work now. I'm just looking into how people's experience has been with Sync 3 if you came from the previous MFT system too.
  7. Does anyone here know or can aim me in the right direction for removing the power outlet on the center console of the dash? I'm talking about the one under the radio in the little alcove. My cover broke and I'd like to replace it but from what I understand, the outlet and cover are clipped together and you need to remove both from behind. Thanks
  8. Wondering where the wireless remote module is located in a 2011 Ford Fusion SE. I need to disconnect the power for a bit to reset the module as both remotes have stopped working after the remote range had dropped to almost nothing with time. I've replaced the batteries in both without success. Seems the remote module needs to be reset.
  9. Hey All, I'm not seeing a buy/sell forum so I'm hoping this is the right place. It seems other fusion forums are dead and I'm not sure where to post this for sale. I was in the process of building a sleeper fusion, but switched to a 2017 Focus ST. I traded the car with the intercooler since I didn't have the stock one anymore, however I put the stock downpipe back on before I traded it. This downpipe new is $499 + $50 shipping. I'm selling it for $399 shipped. It was only on the car for around 20 days and less than 500 miles. Will ship it out with tracking the same day as payment. DP makes a good difference on these cars with a tune in the upper RPM area where boost falls off. pownalltim@gmail.com
  10. Installed the Illuminated Door Sill Panels from Ford Accessories today. Total install time was just over an hour. Standard disclaimer - I'm not responsible for whatever you do to your car as a result of these instructions Ford's instructions are pretty good, but there are a couple places where I differed from them. Most notably, I used squeeze connectors from Radio Shack instead of soldering the wires. These are much easier (IMO) and at $2.50/pack you can't go wrong. Tools Needed: 10mm socket/wrench, pliers, razor knife, plastic putty knife, splice connectors (see pic below, for 18-22 gauge wire), zip ties (included) Splice Connectors: The steps below correspond to the steps in the Ford instructions. Changes I made are in bold with an asterisk * 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. I'd like to meet the SOB at Ford that decided to bury this under the cowl, but it is what it is. You want to do this any time you're working with electronics, and there's so many airbags in this car I just feel safer. 2-5. Start pulling panels as shown in instruction manual. They come up pretty easily and the clips are pretty well spaced. In step 5 you'll have to give the Xmas tree peg at the base of that panel a pretty good tug *6*. I didn't remove the A pillar completely. Just pull it straight out (towards the steering wheel) and let it sit there. You'll see why later. 7-10. Repeat on passenger side. Note that you don't need to remove the passenger side A-pillar Completed passenger side disassembly: 11. Be very careful here. Remove the overhead panel. The corner clips that it warns you about are incredibly fragile, especially in the back. I'll probably end up having to put some glue in there because I think I broke a tiny piece of one. This is the hardest panel to remove - what I ended up doing was getting the front loose first and then slowly working my way back but I couldn't seem to avoid a big tug that finally got it free Try not to separate the two pieces like I did here: 12. Remove the main harness connector. This is what you'll be connecting to. I also removed the secondary connector on the side to completely remove the panel and set it aside 13. The cable runs to the left edge of the headlinerpanel and loops back to the center, glued the whole way. Just work your finger under it and eventually it will come up so you can fish it back behind the headliner. 14. You're going to want to cut the black wrap back as far as you can 15/16. There are two gray-violet wires. Make sure you get the one that's in the position marked in the guide. This is where I used the squeeze connectors. There are two channels in them. One goes all the way through, so this is the one that you slip over the wire in the car. The second only goes part way, so run the wire from the sill kit into this end. Make sure both wires are centered in their channels, then squeeze the connector shut with your pliers. Both wires should be in place. Once I tested them I wrapped them in electrical tape. The second wire from the bottom (the gray/violet one between the violet and yellow-green) is the one you want to connect the red lead to, the black wire is on the top (black to black): Both wires connected: Connect the negative battery cable here and test to make sure the lights go on. Then, you can fish the harness back into place, reconnect it (after disconnecting the negative battery cable again), and put the overhead panel back into place 19. I just ran the wire down the inside of the A-pillar. There's no need to zip tie it in and this saves you from struggling to get the pegs on the A-pillar out (they're stubborn). You'll have to force the wire in between the weather stripping and the base of the A-pillar with the plastic putty knife. Wire run so far: As soon as you run wires through a point, you can start putting panels back in as directed in the instructions 21. I had to pull off the center console trim pieces on both sides to fish the wire through. For zip ties, make sure you run them around the steel frame behind the knee airbag, not the airbag itself. Zip tie location (cut the excess off): 22. I pulled a carpet peg out near the door and ran the light cable through there, then used the same peg to anchor it back in place. Final cable run on driver side: Now you're just replacing panels. As you replace them, they tend to go over the weatherstripping. I use a plastic putty knife to fix the weather stripping and force it back over the panels where it belongs. I'll post more pictures of the final result later once I get a chance to go out at night
  11. illicit1


    Hi Everyone, First time poster here. I am buying my first car since 2005 when I bought my 3rd volkswagon, a certified 2004 Passat. After 10 years of fighting once again with my VW(electrical issues, blah blah) I am done and moving on from VW. After my research I seem to have settled on the 2017 Ford Fusion SE with the technology package and navigation. Forgive me if this isn't appropriate for this forum but I question on incentives. With buying my first new car I am learning about incentives and so on. I am seeing the following incentives for my area: - 1,000 Ford Smart Bonus Cash (PGM #35806) - $500 Final Days Bonus Cash (PGM #12994/#12992) - $750 Customer Cash (PGM #12966) - $500 Fusion SE Tech Discount Pkg. (PGM #97480) - $490 SYNC & Sound Discount Pkg. (PGM #97482) How common are incentives? Are there incentives year round or am i getting luck at year end to have multiple incentives available? If I wait till after these incentives expire, some on January 3rd, am I going to see different incentives or am i going to be out of luck?
  12. **I started to put this in the Fusion subforum, but since these units are used in multiple vehicles, I decided to place it here** Yesterday, when i arrived at my son's babysitter after picking my daughter at school, I noticed a sharp pain as soon as I opened my drivers side door from inside the car. I looked and my finger was bleeding like crazy. A little investigation found that the chrome coating on my Fusion's interior door handle had peeled up on the top of the handle, creating a razor-like edge. When I slid my hand over the handle after it was open, it sliced a quarter-sized crescent into the top of my middle finger. The cut extends from under my last joint all the way up to the top of my nail. I called our dealer's service dept manager, who said that he did not believe this would be covered under any sort of warranty (I'm on a Ford ESP right now; my Fusion has 60k on the clock so bumper-to-bumper is long gone). Has anybody else had this problem with this particular unit? I know these handles were used in Fusion/Milan/MKZ and Edge/MKX. Pic attached... a little blurry, but you can see the appearance of wrinkling where the edge has lifted the furthest. I know that GM had to recall some SUVs because of a similar issue, but I wasn't able to find anything else about this happening in a Ford. http://usnews.rankingsandreviews.com/cars-trucks/daily-news/100609-NHTSA-Investigates-GM-s-Finger-slicing-Door-Handles/
  13. Be aware -- this is long, but I need to get the whole thing out there. I'm sorry in advance for its length. This is adapted from an e-mail that I first sent to the dealership's owner and didn't receive a response. I have tried to contact a few Ford Executives, to no avail, either, and this is a further adaptation of that e-mail. The CSM at Ford says that dealerships are independently owned, obviously, so she can't do anything. Ford Credit said to call the company that does lease inspections; that company told me to call Ford. Ford said they can't evaluate anything. I called credit again and was given the same spiel about independent dealerships; I contacted Ford Service on Twitter and was told "we can only add it to the record." Well, who CAN do something in extenuating circumstances? There has to be someone, somewhere. --- I have been a customer of *** Ford (I'll wait to call out the dealership by name until later) for a little over three years since I moved back to New York in June 2013, until last month. That is where the necessity for this e-mail arises. Please forgive me for the length of this e-mail, but I feel it is necessary for me to lay out all the facts to fully-explain what has happened. After Ford Credit told me I have to speak with the dealership and Ford Service on Twitter said the same, as did my Ford CSM, the fact still remains that the dealership refuses to speak with me, and that is why I am turning to you for help. Thank you in advance for reading this complicated matter and helping me. At the time I moved back to New York, I had a 2012 Ford Fusion SEL AWD, and I had the car serviced there through the end of my lease, which was up in May 2014. I shopped around when it was time to buy my next vehicle, and I decided on *** Ford based on recommendations and a few other factors. I had to special order a 2014 Fusion Titanium AWD because I could not find one anywhere without black leather. I had to wait three months for my vehicle to arrive, and as such, I extended the lease on my 2012 as the build on my 2014 progressed. I took possession of my 2014 Fusion on July 18, 2014. However, within four weeks of delivery of the vehicle, I knew something was wrong with it, beginning with its fuel consumption. I notified my salesman, *** ***** (whom I understand left the dealership some time ago) about my concerns, and he advised me to drive the car a little longer than a month, and if the problems persisted, I could bring it in. I still have these e-mails from August 2014. Despite an obvious break-in period with a new vehicle, I knew that after driving less than 600 miles, I shouldn't need to put in 5 or 6 tanks of gas, considering that the gas mileage on the car is 22/25/31, so even at the low end, my tank should yield 385 miles, and I was getting nowhere near that. I contacted the dealership, and I was told to simply "drive it more." I first brought the car in for service in September 2014, and I have experienced nothing but headaches and troubles since then. My car was in twice in September 2014 alone. Among the initial problems were items such as extremely poor fuel mileage, and I am not saying that the mileage was a few MPGs off the EPA estimates. When I first mentioned it to Mr. ****** in August 2014, the car had 592 miles on it, and I was already on my 5th or 6th tank of gas. My 2012 Fusion was rated at 25 MPG on the highway, and I always got 26-28 MPG; prior to that, I had a 1996 Grand Cherokee Limited 4x4 with nearly 200,000 miles on it, and that got better gas mileage than my 2014 Fusion gets. The dealership did verify it got 16.3 MPG in January 2015 on the highway, but this was deemed "normal" despite it being just over half of the 31 MPG rating for the car. I have taken extensive photographs of the fuel gauge and gas receipts to track this in the past two years. Numerous times, I have driven between 10 and 30 miles and used 1/4 of a tank; I do not get any more than 270-300 miles out of a 17.5-gallon tank when I should be getting 450-531 miles. This is unacceptable. I bought this car when I was promised that my fuel efficiency would increase, not be cut in half. Two of the earliest photos from when I started to track my gas consumption show this very easily and simply: It keeps giving me some gibberish about an image extension that isn't proper grammar, so here is the link to my album with most of my pictures, though it's not fully updated. Please refer to these when I note the mileage for my descriptions: https://goo.gl/photos/TsLN55k6o57sEpa3A August 18, 2014 592.6 September 4, 2014 768.8 Despite the computer registering 21 MPG, I drove a mere 176 miles and used 3/4 of a tank of gas or 13.125 gallons; at 21 MPG, the most I should have used was just over 8 gallons of gas. This was also all highway driving, so I will not even get in to those semantics. Over time, the gas mileage became even worse. The dealer once recorded getting no more than 16 MPG as I mentioned, I would routinely get 13 MPG, or I've even driven as little as 10 miles and used 1/4 of a tank. Here, I drove 20 miles and used more than 1/8 of a tank, and then in a total of 31 miles, I used more than 1/4 of a tank: 1582.8; 1602.3; 1613.8 The computer on the car has constantly registered nothing near 20 MPG, and if you do the math, you will see it is even lower (please remember that gas was nearly, if not over, $4 a gallon at this time, so I wasn't necessarily filling the tank). That is 164 miles and 3/4 of a tank used; your eyes are not tricking you: 3322.8; 3384.5; 3387.6...through 3486.3. Other issues have included (but are not limited to these): Although the navigation navigates in miles, everything else on it is as if it is in England. Traffic incidents are in km, the terms are British terms such as "exit slip ramp" and "broken down lorry." I have brought the car in to have this reprogrammed three times, twice overnight, and it has not been rectified. The car rumbles heavily should I turn on the a/c system or the rear defroster. I was also told this is "normal" but in 18 years of driving, I have never driven another car that has done this. One day, the trunk popped open when I pulled out of a parking space. I pulled over to close it, and the car shook so violently, I had to clamp down on the steering wheel to hold it steady. It was almost starting to smoke, so I turned it off. I waited 20 minutes and tried to turn it back on, but the engine would not turn over. I nearly flooded the engine via push-button start to force it, and I was luckily in Port Chester (down the road from the dealership) and drove it down the road at 20MPH while it was still shaking. I left it at the dealership and said that it had to be looked at first thing in the morning. I was told there was nothing wrong with it. The front windshield fogging up and not being able to clear it no matter what I do -- windshield wipers, defroster, anything. It can be 70 degrees and sunny or 30 degrees. It is not weather related. This is not mild fog, either. Note that it was 65 degrees. The transmission has been jumping and bucking for nearly a year, but every time I mention it, I am told it is "normal" yet again. I am 99% certain it is not normal for a transmission to drop when accelerating on a highway or when entering one or for a car to go nowhere when depressing a gas pedal after going from reverse to drive. It's also not normal for the transmission to slam between gears when either accelerating or decelerating normally, when my foot isn't even on the gas pedal, and have my head bang into the headrest. I have had the car suddenly rev up to 4,000 RPMs while decelerating and get stuck there while starting to shake, and my foot was on the brake pedal, not the gas. The car then got stuck at 4,000 RPMs. The car is continually at 2,000 RPMs when in park and not moving. I have mentioned heavy idling several times as well. The car audibly makes noise when idling, and a car with less than 24,000 miles shouldn't do that, but then again, when I mentioned it back at 3,000 miles it probably should not have done that either. I can no longer make it up hills, small hills, but the service department doesn't seem to think this is an issue. I had the car serviced for a broken strut, which broke at about 21,000 miles, but I was told I needed to wait for a loaner, and I was hearing the noise earlier, but I was in the process of moving. Either way, a strut SHOULD NOT break anywhere near this early, if it breaks. The broken strut is also the reason for this e-mail/complaint now. Please see below. The amount of times that I have needed to bring the car in for service far exceeds what is reasonable for a new car: Purchased July 18, 2014 September 4, 2014 September 12, 2014 November 29, 2014 January 2, 2015 January 5, 2015 January 19-20, 2015 January 29-30, 2015 February 18, 2015 June 18-19, 2015 July 13, 2015 August 13, 2015 I know there must be some missing here, because I did not go six months without service. February 2-3, 2016 March 16, 2016 July 21 - 28, 2016 The car has only 24,450 miles on it as of today, August 17, 2016. I was informed by my building that there is a limit to the number of guest/overnight passes we are allowed in a year, and I only have one remaining. I have not had anyone stay overnight, and I have used my allotment entirely on loaner/rental cars because of my car being out of service. That is ridiculous. Should I have to bring my car in overnight one more time, I will have to use my last one for the entire year, I don't know where I am supposed to park a loaner, because they will boot and/or tow a car without a permit, and White Plains does not allow on-street overnight parking. Either way, this is a major inconvenience to me, because I am unable to have guests at my own apartment because of issues with my car. I queried *** Ford about terminating my lease due to all my issues, and I went to the sales area with a letter I received from Ford Credit. The letter very clearly stated that I could pay either the amount of my remaining payments (11 payments times $347.89 a month -- note that I just made another payment, so it is now 10 payments) or the payments plus my residual value to purchase the car. Another thing the document stated was that the dealer and I could stipulate to a Fair Market Value (FMV) and agree upon that. If the agreed upon FMV was less than the buyout price of the remaining payments plus the residual, I would be responsible for the difference. The problem is that *** Ford offered me a measly $17,000 for my car. How can my car be worth $3,400 less now what it is supposed to be worth in one year? I also honestly think the $17,000 value is incredibly low and honestly an insult. I also believe that no one should try to make money on this car, and it needs to just go back to Ford. I have looked for comparable vehicles, and there are almost no vehicles nationwide with my color leather. Finding one with the same features and that leather is impossible as well. The comparable vehicles I found were along the lines of these, but *** Ford simply did not care (I can provide the links to them if necessary): a Fusion with nearly three times the mileage of mine, no navigation, no blind spot system, and no sunroof. It already had two owners as well, and it was selling for just about $18,000. One with less mileage, blind spot, navigation, and park assist but no sunroof -- $24,788. One in a lower-priced market, no additional options from a base Titanium except for wheels (original MSRP was $3,000 less than mine). 4,000 more miles than my car, but priced at $22,888. A Fusion with 75,000 miles, 50,000 more miles than mine and absolutely no options above the base Titanium trim for $17,586 in Ohio. My car is still under warranty, too. A Fusion located in Pottstown, PA with black interior and the same options except for a heated steering wheel with similar mileage selling for $22,994. A base Titanium Fusion with 75,000 miles selling for $16,000. A base Titanium in rural Western Massachusetts with 34,300+ miles for $22,000. Local SEs with no options selling for $16,000 and $17,000 locally. An SE with double the mileage for $20,000 and a 2013 with more than double the mileage for $20,000 locally. An SE with no options locally $18,999. A base Titanium with 25,500 miles for $22,000 locally. One with more than 50,000 miles in Boston for $23,995. There were also several more for $23,000 and $24,900. One without a blindspot system and double the mileage for $22,900; one with 32,000 miles for $23,782. As you can see, the vehicles that I found were all priced significantly higher than $17,000. I fully understand that dealerships are businesses and they are looking to make money, but I also wish that all parties involved would recognize that my situation is one of extenuating circumstances for a car plagued with problems. The dealership told me that Ford Corporate is in charge of lease terminations, while the Ford CSM told me the dealership is the one to handle it. The contact at the dealership, ***** *******, told me that he was calling Ford Credit/Corporate, but as it turns out, I was told that he never called anyone. He even made a photocopy of an e-mail I was sent by a prior CSM last year stating that I could get out of my lease, but then the CSM changed his mind two days later. Again, this has been a game of cat and mouse played with me over time with this car. The point is that I really don't see how $17,000 is the number if all these other Titaniums are selling at such a significant premium to that and much closer to my buy-out amount, if not over. Again, there are so many cars that have less features and as much as 3x the mileage, if not more than that, which are at least $20,000. Even a 2013 was $20,000. SEs are selling for $19,000+, so how can my car only be worth $17,000? I honestly don't see what the problem is/was for the dealership in stipulating to an agreed upon FMV as it is a matter of paperwork and no more. Then, the car goes back to Ford, and the matter is finished. Then, no one has to worry about anything anymore or dealing with me. The reason why my car was in for service this time was a broken right front strut, which broke at about 21,000 miles. I was told I needed to wait for a loaner, and I was hearing the noise earlier, but I was in the process of moving. Either way, a strut SHOULD NOT break anywhere near this early, if it breaks. However, on top of all of this, while *** Ford had my car for a week this time for a broken strut. Aside from that, *** Ford damaged my car while it was in their possession. While the dealership acknowledges one part of the damage, they refuse to admit to one part of the damage and will not do anything about it, despite my providing them with evidence. I also believe the strut was either not repaired at all or improperly repaired. The same noise has returned (it came back just 2 days after getting my car back), and the car now also clicks when turning the wheel both ways. When I made my appointment for Thursday, July 21, 2016, I had to wait more than two weeks from the day I called in, because no loaner vehicles were available, and I needed one to get to and from work. The day I arrived, there were none available, despite being told I needed to wait until that day for one. I had to wait over an hour for the service department to coordinate with Enterprise, and by the time I got to Enterprise, got a car, and got home, it was nearly 3 hours. I was unable to go to work that day because of all of this; I work over an hour away. This is unacceptable. I called for a status update on my car at 1:30 PM, and I was told it was not yet ready. When I still had yet to hear back at 3:30 PM, I called again, and to my surprise, I was informed that my car hadn't even been brought in yet and would not be looked at that day. I ask: what was the point of a) making an appointment and b) bringing it in for service that day? I also would not be able to come back the next day, because I would have to leave work by 3:30 PM, as summer Friday traffic is especially bad. That would even further inconvenience me to come in on Saturday and change my plans for the weekend. On Friday, I was informed that, while nothing was found wrong with my transmission (surprise, surprise, though I know it has been getting worse lately), there was a broken strut. I was told the part would be ordered and should be in on Saturday, Monday at the latest. By Tuesday, no one had called me about my car. I needed some things from it, so I went to get them after work. I noticed that my car had yet to even be inspected, one of the things that it was there for, but instead, it was just baking in the sun as it had been for days; at this point I was without my car for six days, this time. As I walked around my car, to my shock, horror, and surprised, my car was damaged. I take very good care of my car, despite its issues, and I would never leave a car with any body damage, especially since it is leased, and I would be financially responsible for it. On the passenger side of the car, I noticed a gash in the outside rearview mirror, and the integrated turn signal was also damaged. Please note that this mirror was folded in, and the driver's side mirror was not. *** Ford claimed it wasn't fresh, but if this damage was old, then water and dirt would be stuck in the cracks of the turn signal; there would be haze or a moisture inside the turn signal as well, since it had rained both before my car was there and while it was there. There were no signs of any of that, as you can clearly see. This side of the car was also packed in very close to other cars on that side. (It is making the pictures of the damage very small, but if you need larger ones, please ask.) As you can see, the plastic is not cracked or missing any pieces, but it is simply "spiderwebbed." No one at Ford, Ford Credit, anywhere, can tell me if this is chargeable/beyond "normal wear and tear." I am dumbfounded as to how NO ONE can have this answer for me! This is where the issue of "legal action" came up, because the dealer is refusing to fix this and the other two items below, claiming that they did not cause it, and I am going to have to pay for it come lease-end, which is ridiculous, seeing how my car was wedged in between other cars and there for EIGHT DAYS! Again, it is very obvious that the damage was fresh. As I continued over to the driver's side of the car, I noticed a very large gash/scratch running a large length of the front wheelwell: ****As even MORE evidence that these were fresh and done at the dealership, the one above, by the wheelwell, did mostly wash away when I washed the car, but the basic marking of a scratch is still inherent. It is just not as white. So if it didn't happen at the dealership, then I'm sure it would have washed away in the heavy rain that occurred while it was there. But the dealership didn't think of that, did they? There were also other scratches by the wheel well on the passenger side. Isn't it obvious that they are fresh?: I entrusted my car with the dealership, and it was damaged while in the dealership's custody, care, and control. First, I expect much better than this. Second, if my vehicle is damaged, I, just as any other customer would expect, would presume that it would be repaired before it is returned to me. I finally received a status update on my car late on Wednesday that it would be ready early on Thursday. When I asked *** ***** what took so long, he skirted around my question. I again asked him what took so long, and he avoided it. I said that the car had been there for a week, and replacing a strut is as simple as removing the wheel, replacing the strut, and putting the wheel back on, so was there something else going on? I also noticed when I was taking things out of my car, that the odometer was only 1.5 miles higher than when I had dropped it off, so I'm not really sure how the transmission was "tested" by barely driving it around the block. This has, sadly, continually been my service experience with *** Ford. When I returned late on Thursday afternoon, I expected my car to be fixed. It was not. The body was still damaged. I expected maybe it would be washed after it was subjected to the elements for so long, and I was inconvenienced. It was filthy. I pointed the damage out to ******, the service manager, and he took pictures. He tried to discourage me from taking my own pictures, and I'm sorry, but I need to protect myself, especially after all the runaround I've been given (and that is in addition to what I have put in this e-mail). ****** said he would call me in the morning. When I got into the car, to my chagrin, I saw EVEN MORE damage. If this is the way that *** Ford does business and returns cars to customers, everyone at the dealership really should be ashamed of themselves. I did not point this out earlier because I did not notice it until I sat in the car. I tried to point it out to ****** or someone else in the service department, but they had left immediately after looking at my car, I presume, because I could not find anyone. I saw dirty, filthy handprints on the side of my interior next to where the inspection sticker was placed. This is disgusting, degrading, and beyond unacceptable. This is definitely beyond "normal wear and tear" and something I would get charged for at my lease disposition. Either way, why on EARTH should I have to drive around like this? (I do apologize that the pictures were taken in a garage. I do not have the memory card with the other pictures with me, and I had to take them indoors. Please see other pictures here, since I took them with a flash and at varying angles: https://www.flickr.com/gp/130322192@N05/fvCM42.) As you can VERY clearly see, these photos were taken on the lot when I went to take things from my car just two days before, as it is dated. There are NO handprints whatsoever: (again, it's making them very tiny, but you should be able to see the dirt) Compared to: I am appalled that my car was returned to me this way. That plus the fact that I was unable to reach ****** on Friday or Saturday after I was returned my car, and the following Monday I was PROMISED that he would return my call in 20 minutes at 9:10 AM, but when he did not, I was left nothing but appalled. I'm sorry I only bought one vehicle from *** Ford, unlike others, and I'm sorry that it was only a $36,500 car and purchased with an x-plan and not as expensive as others. I'm also sorry I've brought it in upwards of 15 times for problems, but I'm a customer, too, just like everyone else. I drive this car every day, and I know it has issues. I have been through so much money wasting gas on this car, so much time wasted on service appointments, and now I have to deal with this? I had to clean the interior myself, because *** Ford refused to even speak with me for two weeks. When I finally did speak with ******, it was only because I filed a complaint with the Better Business Bureau. After speaking with ******, however, he still refused to claim responsibility for the damage, that is where I am left now. I explained to him that I am going to have to spend well over $2,000 getting the car repaired. This is ridiculous. I am not sure why this was done to my car, but more importantly why my car was left/returned to me like this. In my opinion, this is actionable since *** Ford refuses to do anything or claim responsibility, especially combined with the fact that time and time again, I am told nothing is wrong with my car. ***** claimed that it is not *** Ford’s responsibility, but I beg to differ. The car was in *** Ford’s custody for eight days, and the dealership should be responsible. My CSM, ********* ****, said that the dealership now refuses to have any further contact with me, and I am not allowed to ever bring the vehicle in for service there again. I am beyond words for this. That is supposedly because I told ****** that my last step would have to be legal action if he was not going to be reasonable and accept responsibility, especially since I had pictures of the car so close to the other cars. Add in to all of this that the SAME NOISE that I had when my strut broke is back AGAIN, and there is a new clicking noise on the left side of my car when I am in reverse and turn the wheel to the left. But, it's not like I was able to get ahold of anyone in service and voice my concerns or that I'll be listened to, anyway, because I'll be told "that's normal" once again. I made an appointment with another dealership, but that is not until September 1, and it is only 60 miles away from my workplace – just a small inconvenience to me, no big deal. I have attempted to contact Ford Credit to see what will be chargeable at the end of my lease, and seemingly, no one can give me an answer. How is it that, at such a large company, no one knows anything? I had a very simple question based on the guidelines for normal wear and tear to see if something like the damage to the mirror or the fender would be “beyond reasonable wear and tear” and no one, absolutely no one knows. I called Ford Credit yesterday, and the person I spoke to directed me to the inspection company. The inspection company said, as I suspected, that they simply inspect the cars and report back to Ford, and I must call Ford. I called Ford AGAIN after that, and I spoke to someone who was sympathetic to my situation, but she was not in end-of-terms, and that department was closed. I was directed to call them this morning, and the person I spoke to was downright rude. The person I spoke to told me that she is “not an appraiser, and how is she supposed to know anything?” All I wanted to know if something like the damage to my mirror is chargeable. I do not want to have any surprises 10 months down the road, nor should I be responsible for something I did not do. If I am going to take action against *** Ford, it must be now. However, I should not have to go through all of this just because of the negligence of the dealership. I would be forever gracious if I could just turn in the car right now, free in clear, and walk away. That would be my best-case scenario. Is there anything anyone at all can do to help me? As you can see, I have been given the runaround in every way possible, and this has become more than my worst nightmare. I just need some help and some answers, and I am hoping that I [finally] have the right person. Thank you very much for your time reading this.
  14. I purchased a used 2010 Fusion SEL AWD last October. It has the Sony Premier system but no navigation. I finally got the itch to change it up by installing my old sub and sub amp from my previous vehicle. That has grown into purchasing a Pioneer AVIC-5200NEX HU, 4-channel amp, speakers etc. The last parts I'm waiting on are the Maestro Rr and FO1 installation harness. My question is... do I need to purchase the $70 Sirius kit for the tuner module? The factory unit has Sirius, which I use, and an antenna (obviously). Is the tuner built-in or separate? Thanks
  15. 2013 Ford Fusion Titanium with Intelligent Access Keyfob The proximity entry , lock and unlock work fine with both my key fobs. The remote unlock and lock, trunk open, and remote start do not work on either key fob. I bought new batteries for the key fobs thinking that they just didn't have enough power for the remote transmitter function. But that did nothing. And usually the SYNC system will tell me when a key fob is getting a low battery. I suspect that the receiver on the car is not working, therefore not picking up any remote signals. I suspect the proximity entry is a separate signal based on passive sensing. Has anyone has this problem? The dealer said I'd have to pay at least an hour of diagnosis and I'd rather try to get the remote feature working again myself.
  16. The Fusion has been quite recently updated with the 2017 model year. This includes a new engine choice and two all new trim levels. However, the changes are not as big as we would have hoped and it seems that the car might be heavily refreshed with the 2018 Ford Fusion. https://carsoid.com/2018-ford-fusion/
  17. Chris Bode

    2017 2.0L ecoboost question

    Hello, Does anyone know if the 2.0 rolling in fusions these days is the twin scroll redesign that edge got a year or two back ? I'm still waiting on my factory order, build date was 6.22 and its still not here so I can't check myself.
  18. I own a 2012 Fusion that has a clicking noise when you brake going forward and going in reverse. I bought the car new in 2012 and the noise has been there every day. My Ford service advisor said that Ford knows about it, but is not fixing it. I was wondering why is Ford not fixing the issue? I also own a 2013 Fusion, but it does not have this issue. Can anyone help with this issue?
  19. I am hoping for a fusion wagon since the Mondeo line has one in production. Read something about a spring 2013 release?
  20. I was very upset when I found out my 2013 Fusion Energi Titanium was not going to have the Dual Integrated Tailpipes like the Gas Titaniums. To me, that was the mark of the higher end Fusion Titanium (If you agree, please comment/Like my Ford post - http://social.ford.com/your-ideas/technologies/personalization/dual-integrated-tailpipes-for-the-2013-ford-fusion-hybrid-titanium-and-energi-titanium/) So besides telling Ford, I am looking at changing my Energi's rear end. I have been talking with my Dealer's Service center. We think that we can change out the current Energi rear for the gas 2.0l rear. It would still only have one working tailpipe, but it would look like a dual. From best we can tell at this point, there are two parts (17810 and 17K922 [may need 17F827], costing just over $500) on the Fusion gas that are different from the Energi. Here is the image from the part catalog (in PDF and jpg): pdf - https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B4hPmV6eq_1HV2ljWmlZZm51UDQ/edit?usp=sharing jpg - https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B4hPmV6eq_1HUnJENEpmaTNaenM/edit?usp=sharing I am going to meet again with the Service department and with the body shop and my salesman later next week to really scope this out. I am not sure what it will really cost, but if all of the parts fit, it should be a simple change. Even on the gas version, the exhaust pipes just butt up to the opening in the "integrated" holes in the bumper, so the Energi would just have one pipe, but still to openings. I'll let you know what I find out. Anyone else do/looked at this?
  21. blackfusion79

    Morimoto Elite HID installation

    Hi everyone, First off, I just want to say hello to the community here at Blue Oval Forums. I've been lurking on these forums since last year when we bought my wife's white 2013 Fusion SE. This site has been a great source of information for our research both before and after that purchase, so thank you for that. We like her car so much that I decided to buy one for myself too, a black 2013 Titanium model. So now we have the complete "bride and groom" set. The only thing that really turned me off about the Fusion is the lack of an option for HID headlights, a complaint that I have heard echoed by many others as well. My last vehicle had them (a Nissan Altima coupe), and once you've had steak, it's hard to go back to hamburger. I looked into doing a full retrofit, but ultimately the lower cost and good compatibility of a plug-and-play kit with the Fusion won me over. I decided to buy one kit for now, install it myself, and if we liked it, do the same on our other vehicle. After lots of research into product quality, warranty offerings, and customer service ratings, I decided to go with the Morimoto Elite HID system from The Retrofit Source. I went with the 35W H11B bulbs @ 4500K, along with standalone canbus harnesses. I convinced my wife to do the HID upgrade on her vehicle first, just in case I screwed something up so that she could be the first to experience the joy of upgraded lighting! Let me first say that my experience with The Retrofit Source has been stellar. They answered all of my questions before the purchase, they encourage you to reach out to them if you have any trouble during the installation, and they quickly resolved a parts issue that came "to light" (sorry, bad pun intended) after the install. I just want to mention it up front so that it doesn't get lost in my install guide - the issue that we had was that one of the lights would shut off after about thirty seconds and not come back on until the lights were turned off and back on. Occasionally it would completely fail to fire up at all. I shuffled parts from one side to the other until I identified the canbus as the culprit. I sent a quick email to TRS with a photo of the canbus hacked into pieces (that was fun!), and they got a replacement one to me within a few days at no cost to me. The kit has worked flawlessly ever since. So, if you buy and install this kit and experience the same symptoms, take a look at the canbus first. And rest assured that if anything goes wrong within five years of purchase for the 35W kit, they'll ship out a replacement part to you right away. In my opinion that peace of mind along with the as-advertised bulb temperature colors makes up for the slightly higher cost vs. the cheap eBay kits or other options out there. Now, on to the install guide... --- Here is a photo of the kit that I received (cable ties and box cutter not included): The quality of the kit is really top-notch. Each component is solidly constructed, individually packaged, and assembly instructions are included. Here's a color-coded parts list: Green - XB35 ballasts Red - H11B XB 4500K bulbs Yellow - ballast igniters Blue - Wiring for connecting bulb to canbus and ballast White - Standalone canbus Orange - Alcohol wipes Now let's get to work! Park your car in a cool, shaded location (preferably in a garage). Tip: If you can't be indoors, a pedestal fan is your best friend! Make sure that your parking brake is set, and put wheel chocks in place. Safety first... it won't do you much good to have nice headlights if your car brings your life to an end before you even get to drive it. First we'll need to remove the front bumper to get access to the headlights. Pop your hood and remove the parts shown below: * Green - Trim clips * Red - Torx screws From this point on we will work on modifying one headlight at a time. First you'll want to remove three thumbscrews from the back of the front wheel well on the side that you want to work on. This photo is from the front right wheel well. The screws are circled in red: If you are having trouble accessing the screws, it may help to turn the adjacent wheel toward the inside of the car. Just be sure to turn it back and replace the wheel chock when you're done. Next you'll need to slide under the front of the car, so make sure that parking brake is on! This time you'll need to remove a bolt at the front of the bumper and two thumbscrews along the side, shown below in red: My wife's car had apparently been worked on in the past, so one of her two thumbscrews was a trim clip; yours will probably look a bit different. Here is a close-up of the same two screws along the side of the bumper from the last photo, since they were out of focus: Great news, now you're ready to pry that side of the bumper away from the car! The rest of my photos came out a lot better from the front LEFT side of the car, so pretend that we've finished up on the right side of the car and moved on to the left. Now that the bumper is free, we can carefully pull it away from the body, starting from the seam by the wheel well and working our way toward the front: Now that the bumper is out of the way, we want to remove the bolts that are holding the headlight in place, shown here: The headlight is still held in place by a locking tab, so next you'll need to give it a nice, firm pull toward the front of the vehicle to get it loose. In theory you should be able to completely remove it from the car, but I just let it slide forward several inches, set it down, and stuffed some padding between the bumper and the rest of the body, to protect the paint: Now we can get to work on installing our kit! The next step is to remove the protective cap that sits behind the low beam bulb. It's the one on the outside part of the headlight, as shown here: Now you'll need to modify the protective cap so that you can pass the kit wiring through it and connect the wiring to the components inside the headlight. TRS recommends drilling a 7/8" hole in the cap, but I found that this was not big enough. I ended up using my box cutter to carefully cut away just enough rubber so that 1) the connectors on the end of the wiring could pass through and 2) the inner and outer seals on the wiring could rest flatly on the inside and outside of the cap without allowing anything from the outside to get in. Disconnect, rotate and remove the halogen bulb from the headlight, being careful not to touch it with bare fingers. Insert the HID bulb into the socket and rotate it until it locks. We are testing to make sure that it fits and remains in place snugly. Take the bulb back out and connect it to the end of the wiring that you have passed through the protective cap. Make sure to gently but firmly snap it into place. Now take one of the alcohol swabs and wipe down the HID bulb to ensure that it is free of contaminants and oils. Place the bulb back in the socket and lock it back into place again. Take the black and red wires that are also passed through the protective cap and firmly insert them into the connector that was previously hooked up to the halogen bulb. Your setup should now look like this (notice how the inner seal is flush with the protective cap): Now connect a ballast igniter to one of the sets of wires (the black/white weave pattern ones in my kit) that is passed out of the protective cap. Connect the ballast igniter to a ballast. Connect the ballast to a standalone canbus. Now to complete the loop, connect the other end of the standalone canbus to the other set of wires (black/red weave pattern in my kit) that is passed out of the protective cap. Carefully tuck the halogen bulb connector and its wires inside the headlight assembly and put the protective cap back in place. Your set up should now look like this. Note that the piece of the canbus circled in red is extra and can be removed if you desire: Now that you have everything hooked up, fire up the headlight and make sure that the HID bulb works as expected. Turn the headlights back off when you are done. Leave the kit laying on top of the engine bay for now. At this point you can repeat the previous steps for the other headlight. Be sure to test the bulb on that side as well. Rest the backs of both of the ballasts against the frame to help ground them, then run some final tests on the kit before securing everything in place. Turn the headlights on and off several times in a row and make sure that the bulbs fire up each time. Note that it is normal for them to appear slightly different in color when they first come on. Over time, as the salts in the bulbs "break in", the color should eventually match when firing up (they should always match once warmed up). Leave the lights on for a while and make sure that there is no flickering or loss of light. If you hear any buzzing or humming from either of the ballasts, this is normal. You will not be able to hear it when the hood is closed or when the engine is running. If everything checks out, you can slide/lock the headlights back in place and re-insert the two bolts used to secure them. Next you can secure the kit parts in your engine bay. I tucked all of the wiring down in the gaps behind the headlights and zip-tied the ballasts securely against the frame behind the headlights, as shown below. Driver's side: Passenger's side: Reattach your bumper by carefully pressing the locking tabs at each end of the bumper back into place. It will take a bit of firm force, but they should eventually go back into place. Put all of the bolts and fasteners back where you found them. Park your car behind another car at night with your lights on. Ensure that the top of the cutoff does not go up into the other car's side view mirrors. If it does, rotate the adjustment screw on the headlight assembly to lower the beam alignment. Enjoy your new HID headlights!! The cutoff for HID bulbs in our halogen projectors is very good, and the beam spread is reasonable as well. After a couple of months of driving with the new headlights on at night, my wife has not been flashed by other drivers a single time. I have also driven toward her vehicle head-on and did not find the lights to be anywhere close to blinding. I am quite jealous and can't wait to do the upgrade on my car as well. Here is a shot of the light output from my wife's car (ignore the left-to-right height unevenness; our driveway is at a slight angle): I am already at my max photo limit for this post, so I will add some follow-up shots of the vehicle itself in a separate post. Thanks for checking out my installation guide, and feel free to reach out to me if you have any questions. It's a great PNP kit; I highly recommend it as well as The Retrofit Source!
  22. kfengler

    2015 FUSION SE

    From the album: FORDS OVER THE YEARS

  23. rp2388

    LED Vanity Mirror Lights

    So I decided I'd take a crack at replacing the vanity mirror lights that come stock with LEDs. It's a simple swap. Just take a skinny flat head screwdriver, pop off the light cover from the bottom right off-center, and replace the light. The vanity's use the fuse style bulbs so if you are wondering, that's what's used. I added pics below to show the bulbs and comparison.
  24. Bought my 1st new car in 10 years. Traded in the '05 Sable w/145,333 mi. and bought a '15 Fusion SE w/ 1.5 Eco (Tectonic Silver) and the 201 pkg. What a nice car!
  25. rp2388

    Mondeo-like Headlights

    Just in case anyone was still thinking of swapping out their headlights for something that at least looks similar to the Mondeo lights that the Fusion didn't get, I found these guys that do a retrofit which looks similar to those and is a plug and play set. They also have the 2015 style headlights that the mustang got but for the Fusion. What do you guys think? http://www.thelightingfirm.net/shop/2g-ford-fusion-mondeo-style-led-drl-oem-headlights