Jamers

Does anyone have the 2019 order guide yet?

So there is no "black box" that would store that information regardless?

Can the Ford Dealer determine if a 2013 Edge has ever had an airbag deployment by looking at the car's computer? I'm asking because I'm looking at a used 2013 Edge Limited that I'm about 99% convinced the front end sustained some prior damage even though it's not listed on the Car Fax report. Here are my clues: 1) Price is too low for mileage, condition, and options. About $2500 below what I would expect it to list for. 2) Limited with painted front grill which what not an option (painted grill is 1/2 the price of a chrome grill so I suspect someone had t replace it and opted for the least expensive fix) 3) Lines between the hood and front fender narrows on both sides as it sweeps down towards the front bumper. I plan to further inspect the car for other issues but would be really concerned if the airbags had been deployed. That would indicate some pretty serious damage. Not to mention the chance of substandard air bag replacements. I'm hoping it nothing more than the previous owner had minor damage and maybe had it repaired without going thru insurance therefore it never appeared on the Car Fax.

It is possible to get an update on the location? Thank you.

VIN 1FM5K8GT4HGA46010

So when can I place an order for the 2017 Escape and when can I expect delivery?

What are the colors on the Escape Sport?

I am simply just "NOT" digging the new 2016 look. The front end looks dated and more Expedition like. The rear looks kind of boring. The new rims pale in comparison to those offered on the current Sport. I'm already looking into getting out of my 2013 Sport lease early in order to pick up a 2015 Sport just to avoid having the 2016 as my only option. Some of the extra technology might sound cool but it already have enough to satisfy me. The only positive improvement I could say I like is the addition of real buttons on the center stack.

Why did they replace the A pillar trim? Was it the Driver or Passenger side? Maybe the rattle is in the pillar?

Hey FusionNewbie, I too have a passenger side dash rattle. It is driving me nuts. It started a couple months ago. My Fusion was built in March 2013 it is not related to the TSB mentioned above. I haven't taken it to the Dealer yet but plan to soon. Have you had any luck eliminating the noise on your end?

I too have this smelly sock odor for the first 2-3 minutes after start-up. It's very nasty. My kids complain every time. Got my Fusion in April and the smell start in Sept. My 2013 Explorer does not exhibit the same smell. Neither did any of my previous Fords over the past 20 years. This is a design issue. The design must be promoting mold growth. And by the way, I shouldn't have to turn my A/C off several minutes before I turn off my car. Frankly, that is absurd to expect a driver to have to do that every time.

You won't get in over your head. You will need a few tools however in addition to the LED bulbs and correct resistors. A dremel with disc cutter to open up the puddle lamp assembly. Some epoxy glue to seal the puddle lamp back up (Note: wait to seal until you have tested the LED with the resistor on). A soldering iron and solder to attach the resistor. It's a 30-45 min project from start to finish. If you really don't feel up to it then let me know. I'd be willing to do it for a very reasonable fee. I still have some resistors left over.

Gremlin, the puddle lamps can be a kind of tricky to remove. There is the obvious clip which when pushed will drop one side of the lamp but the other side will still catch. The trick is to pry at opposite side of the clip in tandem. I happen to have a small plastic pry bar that I had left over from an Apple iPod screen replacement project. On the clip side I use a very small flat head screw driver. It takes a while to synchronize it but once you drop the first one the second one will be much easier. Be careful not to slip when applying pressure and scratch the underside of the mirror. Here is a quick video I made for you. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PHAvY39UERo

It really isn't really as hard as it sounds. It's about a 15 mins project.

Do you mean to say you couldn't remove the taillight in order to access the bulb? I followed the instructions in this thread. It was really easy. 3 bolts total to remove http://www.blueovalforums.com/forums/index.php?/topic/52427-2013-fusion-reverse-lights/?hl=reverse

I replaced my Reverse Lights with these and they look great and function perfectly. Got them from http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007I75D8W/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 My only complaint might be that up close you can see the yellow color of the LED diode.

I reached out to the daytimebrights guy and he said he had the same pulsing in the Fusion but was too busy to figure out how to solve the problem.

These pics and video say it all. Standard factory Puddle Lamp on Passenger's side and LED Lamp on Driver's side. The picture showing both sides at once displays just how much brighter and whiter the LED lamp appears. Keep in mind this is reflecting off of my tan garage floor. Had my car been on the driveway it would have appeared even whiter. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fRO0YMKOw4c

Sure, I'll shoot a video this evening and post. Theater dimming works perfectly.

Many of us have tested numerous DE3175 Festoon LEDs for the Puddle Lamps with no success. Any and all LEDs will pulse in the 2013 Fusion. I happen to also own a 2013 Explorer which uses the exact same Puddle Lamps however the LED replacement works just fine in that vehicle. Something is obviously unique about the Fusion's electrical system. Through hours of research and testing I have found the correct resistor to eliminate the pulsing when using a LED in the Puddle Lamp. I also had to spend $40 on a decent Digital Multimeter (DMM) to take measurements. A special thanks to Harley#356 over in the ExplorerForum.com for his expertise. The root cause of the pulsing was due to the fact that the LED light draws significantly less current than the stock bulb. 1/10th watt as compared to 4.8 watts. This would cause a fault in the system. The solution is to install a resistor to draw enough current to illuminate the LED but no too much that the resistor would get dangerously hot. The function of a resistor is to draw current and dissipate it in the form of heat. I found that a 150 ohm 3 watt resistor provided the proper balance. It draws approximately 1 watt of current therefore it never get hotter than 130 degrees. The 3 watt designation on the resistor is just it's rated power capacity. With a 150 ohm 3 watt rated resistor on a 12v system it is only drawing 1 watts of current therefore it is well under it's rated max of 3 watts. Even after leaving the light on for several minutes it never got hotter than 130 degrees. Hot to the touch but won't melt anything. I tested two brands of LED bulbs although I am confident pretty much any LED bulb will work using my recommended resistor: This one from Putco is a 3 LED and fits very nicely into the Puddle Lamp housing. I slightly bent the metal prongs over the edges of the festoon circuit board and it was securely locked into place. Don't be fooled by it's small size; this LED is very bright. Free shipping so $21.50 for a pair. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007RXI4JM/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i03?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This is the first set of LEDs (in Cool White) I purchased and use in my Explorer. They worked fine in the Explorer as I stated earlier but would only work in the Fusion using the resistor. Although they are 4 LED they are actually slightly less bright than the Putco LED's above. However they are still plenty bright enough. These are a little tighter fit due to the larger circuit board but will still work. With shipping you will being paying $17 for a pair so you might as well get the Putcos above. http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/festoon/de3175-led-bulb-4-smd-led-festoon/238/ As for the resistor itself, not all resistors are the same. Here is the one I found worked the best. It is small enough to fit between the Puddle Lamp connectors. I have them positioned not to touch anything and there is just enough space in the side mirror housing as well. It's hard to see in the pic but the resistor sits more between the connectors rather than above them. This way I know it's not pressing on anything. Even if it were it the resistor does not get hot enough to melt anything. http://www.ebay.com/itm/140740589823?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_686wt_945 By the way, the LED Puddle Lamps look awesome on my Fusion. Especially since I have already changed out the from parking lamps and rear license plate bulbs with LED. I also have installed HIDs so I have nice Cool White (5000-6000k) light all over.

I compared H11 bulbs from both DDM and TRS in 5000k. The Passenger side fog is TRS and the Driver's side fog is DDM. It was obvious to me that DDM's 5000k is really 6000k or higher. Only the TRS 5000k represents an accurate Kelvin temperature. The low beams also happen to be DDM in 5000k so that is why the TRS bulb stand out. Just thought anyone considering DDM would like to know that the 5000k is really 6000k or maybe a bit higher even. I later installed a TRS in 6000k and could see the the DDM 5000k was still a bit bluer. This is consistent with another post I read stating that DDM really only uses like 3 different Kelvin variations but sells them as 8 different kelvin choices ranging from 3000k thru 12000k. Not trying to bash DDM but just sharing my observations with anyone who is expecting accurate color temps. For folks who demand spot on color temps then DDM may not be right for you. Last thing, the whole reason I ended up with multiples bulbs was I initially installed TRS 5000k in my Explorer and to save money I put the DDM 5000k in my Fusion. Well I immediately noticed a stark contrast between the two sets. Additionally, one of the DDM's H11 fogs had a slight variation in color and intensity from the other. After troubleshoot to ensure it wasn't due to the ballast I contacted DDM to ask for a warranty swap on the bulb. They gave me so much push back that I decided to order 6000k bulbs from TRS instead and install them in using the DDM ballasts in order to try to best match them to the headlamps. The TRS 5000k fog in this pic was borrowed from my Explorer to illustrate the contrast with DDM's so called 5000k bulb.

Thanks Chris. I ordered these bulbs based on your recommendation and they are perfect. Nice white light and very bright but not insanely bright. Brighter than stock bulbs for sure. Install was a very easy.

My previous test using the 25 Ohm 10 watt resistor from VLEDs resulted in no pulsing but the resistor heated up to 242 degrees in mere minutes. Today I tried a 10 Ohm 25 watt resistor. The good news is it also stopped the pulsing but quickly heated up to 266 degrees. So that make 3 different resistors I have tried which have stopped the pulsing but ended of getting way too hot. My next plan is to try the LED's recommended by Putco. http://www.amazon.com/Putco-231125-Universal-Lighting-Festoon/dp/B007RXI4JM/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1368215571&sr=1-1&keywords=231125%20putco&tag=viglink121730-20 I did get my Multimeter in today but don't really know how to use it yet.

I happen to call the Tech at Putco today for some resistor advice and he told me their Festoon LED has a built in resistor and should work fine. http://www.amazon.com/Putco-231125-Universal-Lighting-Festoon/dp/B007RXI4JM/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1368215571&sr=1-1&keywords=231125+putco Anyone try this bulb yet?

Jinx, I got the resistors you suggested. I selected the 25 Ohm 10 watt. I connected them and measured the surface temp of the resistor at 242 degrees Fahrenheit after leaving the puddle lamp on for 2 minutes. That's pretty damn hot. Probably hot enough to start a fire if touching something combustible. The only good news is the flickering stopped and the LED lamp illuminated with ample brightness. I wonder if the 25 Ohm 25 watts resistors would be any cooler? Again, I'm not sure exactly what I'm doing so perhaps a higher or lower Ohm rating will affect the hot as well. The odd thing to me is my 2013 Explorer has the exact same puddle lamps and I swapped it out with LEDs and did not require a resistor. They worked perfectly with no flickering. Why do they flicker only in the Fusion?