F-150 not starting

[mcisler]

2006 F 150 51K miles turn key everything but the starter works relay by passengers footwell is heard klicking prompt in the odometer window says "check gauges" try again later and all is well

dealer says since there is no code left they can't fix it and wont try... I've been stranded 4 times last time even called a wrecker only to have it start right up AFTER it was towed to a repair shop..

Even if each piece of the starter system was replaced I still would not know if the real culprit was found.

somewhere there must be a record of this type of failure or a place to ask any ideas??

[akirby]

2006 F 150 51K miles turn key everything but the starter works relay by passengers footwell is heard klicking prompt in the odometer window says "check gauges" try again later and all is well

dealer says since there is no code left they can't fix it and wont try... I've been stranded 4 times last time even called a wrecker only to have it start right up AFTER it was towed to a repair shop..

Even if each piece of the starter system was replaced I still would not know if the real culprit was found.

somewhere there must be a record of this type of failure or a place to ask any ideas??

 

That's typical of a weak battery but since it cranks later I would guess either a bad ground or a bad battery cable connection. Remove and clean the battery connections and check the cables and other grounding points.

[mcisler]

That's typical of a weak battery but since it cranks later I would guess either a bad ground or a bad battery cable connection. Remove and clean the battery connections and check the cables and other grounding points.

 

 

 

 

 

thank you

I can check this would a bad groung also trigger the check gauges prompt ??

[akirby]

thank you

I can check this would a bad groung also trigger the check gauges prompt ??

 

Possibly.

[mcisler]

Possibly.

 

i found this on a site and will try it next

 

 

You turn the ignition key on your mid-90's Ford motor vehicle and all you get is a click. Initially you think that either the battery is low or that the battery cables are not secured tightly. You may be surprised that the problem is with the small red wire that leads to the starter solenoid (which is attached to the top of the starter).

Ford products (Ford, Lincoln, Mercury) made from 1992 to 2006 had a design defect in the starter that often caused a no-start, no-crank condition. The problem was traced to the ignition terminal connection on the starter's solenoid. Ford finally came out with a conversion kit that remedied the problem. It is Ford part number 6U2Z-14S411-NA, discussed in Technical Service Bulletin 06-19-14 dated Oct. 2, 2006.

The ignition terminal connection on the solenoid is the smaller of the two electrical connections to the starter. It is usually red and it attaches to the solenoid via a push-on, pull-off connection called a male spade connection. This connection is the primary source of starter problems because it corrodes easily, causing the connection to fail.

The Ford Motor Company has produced a conversion kit that converts the spade-type connection to an eyelet/post-type connection. This will solve the problem. Another alternative is to replace the entire starter assembly with a new or rebuilt unit that already has the newer connection built in. That is the course of action I recommend.

Replacing the starter is a simple task. There are only two bolts that hold the starter in place. Then there is a nut on the solenoid that must be removed to disconnect the main power lead. Finally, there is a smaller electrical wire that must also be disconnected from the solenoid.

Always disconnect the negative lead on the battery before attempting any repairs on a starter (or alternator, etc.).

Do NOT buy a replacement starter or a starter solenoid that uses the male spade connection, since the older type of connection will begin causing problems in as little as a year.

[akirby]

That doesn't match your symptoms exactly but it won't hurt to try.

[mcisler]

That doesn't match your symptoms exactly but it won't hurt to try.

 

it's taken a while but -- the solenoid connection was the proper one--- so i cleaned ALL connections I could find

this morning after a 2 mile trip starter was dead again

got gheck gauges prompt with key in on or start position

checked with test lite NO power to solenoid--- jumped power to starter and it worked fine jumped power to solenoid and it was fine

jumped power to solenoid with key on and engine started ( so at least I wont be stranded )

any ideas ???

[akirby]

it's taken a while but -- the solenoid connection was the proper one--- so i cleaned ALL connections I could find

this morning after a 2 mile trip starter was dead again

got gheck gauges prompt with key in on or start position

checked with test lite NO power to solenoid--- jumped power to starter and it worked fine jumped power to solenoid and it was fine

jumped power to solenoid with key on and engine started ( so at least I wont be stranded )

any ideas ???

 

No low voltage power to the solenoid? If the solenoid is getting low voltage power when the key is turned to start but not sending high voltage power to the starter then it's a bad solenoid. If the solenoid isn't getting low voltage power then that sounds like the ignition switch or a wire between the switch and the solenoid.