Bearcats98

This. I didn't get stuck but the Sonata with DWS performed leaps and bounds better; so I took that on bad snow days.

I have the 2.0 Turbo and I change it out at about six months and about 3300 miles. I have short commutes to work. The computer says between 43-51% when I do this. I change my own oil and good clean oil is the life blood of a turbo. I am not willing to take risks to "save" in this department. I do not use conventional. And in the case of the Fusion I have stuck to a particular brand that my research has indicated to me is being the way to go. To document my oil changes I buy an OEM filter from the dealer the day I change the oil and I snap pics of the receipt and the mileage and store it with the physical receipt.

While this is true; go read the thread on the Escape about water intrusion. Ford still doesn't have a grasp on the fix yet. Very unsettling. I hope the OP gets a straight answer/solution unlike the poor Escape owners. http://www.blueovalforums.com/forums/index.php?/topic/50323-2013-escape-leaking-roof/

Have they stopped using this stuff? This is absurd.

NM. I guess giving it a day to "reset" or whatever allowed me to use it as normal. *BONK*

I was trying to program an additional key code to the keyless entry via the MFT screen and I believe I unknowingly wiped out the master code. I hit "Delete code" trying to clear out old codes. However when I put in the master code to add/edit/delete (after my delete action above) it refuses it. The master code still works on the door frame but not with MFT. So I cant add/delete/edit my key codes via MFT. I could have sworn I saw something on here how to recover from it but I guess my search terms are to broad as it doesnt come up or I was making it up in my mind.

Whoa...that's not cool. No pun intended...well, maybe a little bit.

I removed it and it was tough. I screwed it back on and back off again and it didn't seem as tough. So maybe that was it. I still have to go buy coolant to top it off anyway so Ill monitor it closer.

This was a major "duh" moment for me. No radiator cap. The reservoir cap is the "radiator" cap now. I pulled and looked. A small/smidge of dried coolant under the thread. Ill have Ford test it and see if it needs replaced. Thanks for the idea!

Has anybody had to top off? I have had mine since April 13 and it was delivered with correct amount (very close to max) and now hot or cold mine is at the minimum line. Seeing as the car only had 5K on it I find this a tad early to be loosing coolant? I am also smelling a VERY feint whisp of coolant smell on shut down when I pop the hood. VERY feint. Thoughts by others?

I just got a random one in the mail. Applied to 2014 CMaxx Hybrid/Energi, Escape, Fusion + Hybrid, Focus ST. If the trans on my Fusion was more reliable I would dump my other car for an Escape. If they would convert my 2.0EB to a 6+spd manual I would do it in a heartbeat. However given the oddness of its operation and the inability to reproduce the problems on demand will cause me to pause a bit on purchasing another Ford right now.

Do your research thoroughly. 13 was the new model launch and there are typically bugs.

Did the engine rev? Mine was engine rev, but no go while it thought about it.

LOL at passenger seat. Disappointing that your trans is silent. Guess its time to go test drive another one and compare and show to service...sigh.

Do you guys have any "whining" to your trans while not moving? Mine is starting to sound like the old GM cars with a PS pump going....not very loud but the sound IS there.. :-(

Id be curious to see; but mine has never had anything but 93 octane. Yesterday mine threw a temper tantrum. I originally put it into S (accident; meant to put it into D) then back into D without using the paddle shifters and it held gears a lot longer and wouldn't shift down consitantly. I ran in to get a sixer of happiness and came out and it was all fine. I could not have been in the store five minutes. Software is a large source in my opinion. Also when I make a gas pedal adjustment at/during a shift point; especially 2-3 it gets "stuck" and lost. There are LARGE hesitations that I am not confident making abrupt accelerations like jumping through a hole in oncoming traffic as I am not sure if its going to hesitate. When I say hesitate...its like it goes into neutral and cant figure out whether to go up or down a gear.

I have the EB motor and until the tranny is warmed up it wont let you into 6th. There is a certain spot going to work where its usually warmed up and will then start clicking int 6th. Not overly sure temp has to do with it though....

I have run nothing but Shell 93 through mine since delivery with 3.8 miles. I have close to 4K on it now. But I dont get the "bump" type that deadman described. Mine sorta clunk into gear time to time from R/D or P/R. And the 2-3 flare is so bad if I make a gas pedal adjustment during the shift it gets so confused that it just hangs for a few seconds before it kinds thunks=>slams into third.

Would you mind explaining how you stated your issue to the dealer? I figure if wording comes close it should get the same reaction by my dealer in theory. Thanks!

Thats good news! Also see if you can get the TSB number...I would be tickled to see a software change solve or greatly reduce the 2-3 shift sogginess.

302 Boss Laguna Seca edition... FTW! To bad thats a bit above my pay grade..which is why I own a Fusion...

I am taking a half day off of work (to many vacation days and need to burn some) to give her a proper washing and waxing.

Just dont walk the tape up to close to the back end of the connector and cause strain on the wires. The wires going into the back of the connector should not get taut. This would apply more to the wires on the outer edges versus the wires in the center.

Do you play with your window switches? I was having "issues" with mine until I figured out my problem. I have a nervous habit of "blipping" the swtiches up/down. What I was actually doing was reprogramming them by accident. LOL! Ever since I stopped touching the window switches EXCEPT to actually raise/lower the windows...the issue has gone away. *head smack*

Especially when its over many manufacturers (Acura, Hyundai, Toyota, Ford, GM...etc).