Escapism

And then there's this:

Thanks for the reply. Sounds like it is totally random. Are the block final machining done at the assembly plant? And what is "6006" mean?

Here is one. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10162071-0001.pdf

So what’s going on with all the TSB’s about replacing long blocks. The very active Fordescape.org forum that I participate in has quite a few folks getting long blocks replaced due to coolant intrusion in the cylinders. Both 1.5 and 2.0’s has TSBs released. Not really sure if the engine ID tag would do any good Is the casting done at a different location than the engine assembly? I traded in my 2013 for a 2017 Ti 2.0 Love my vehicle, but now I’m nervous Just thought I would try to get some honest answers here.

Just got a new set of OEM tires installed. I thought I would put in new TPMS sensors due to age. But the low pressure warning light won't go out. I have relearned all 4 of my tires successful multiple times using the ignition and brake pedal method. Get the horn chirp at every tire and the "successful trained" message. Even did the hazard button method. Again, get the horn chirps and success message. But the light is still on. I do have a couple unrelated DTC's in the system. Would that cause it? But I think the part number I used may be wrong. Here is my old one. This is the part number I put in: TPMS12 DE8T-1A180-AA But this is what Fords parts and Tasca, etc. is listing: 9L3Z-1A189-A All of these parts numbers seem to be interchangeable by many sellers, but I'm having my doubts. Any help appreciated.

Oh man, have you seen engine bays that don't have the shields installed? That and all the gasketi g around the hood keeps the bay pretty clean. Otherwise it's a mess in there. A lot of sand and grit all over the place. Folks do complain about the cover, but I'm fine with it.

Hope the OP used mercon LV.

Check this out. http://www.fordescape.org/forum/engine-technical-discussion/87050-transmission-fluid-smell.html

Great video.

I highly recommend you join this site and post your question under the appropriate thread. If you do enough reading there you may find an answer. Much more traffic on this site. http://www.fordescape.org

I would post here for a quicker response. http://www.fordescape.org/

I have done it both ways. If I can see the keypad in the sunlight then I enter my code and it opens. If I can't see the pad at night, I tap somewhere close to illuminate, then wait a moment and enter my code. Works every time. You can retrieve your factory code by looking for it taped to the BCM.

Here is a listing on Amazon with the part number. Tasca parts has this part, but the suffix is an "H" I think. In the description on Tasca's site it sats the "H" version replaces the "D" version. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GHKBYMA?tag=viglink21535-20

Go to this forum and ask the same question. http://www.fordescape.org Much better response time.

What's the point of posting if your going to pull a Houdini?

Oh wow, I can only imagine your frustration. Do you know what was wrong with the sub frame that it required replacement? That is some major work!

No brake controller. Just your standard bare bones 4 pin connector. Really strange that they give a 3500 lb. load with my factory tow but most states require a brake controller under 3500. Dumb.

^ Are they taking off all of the roof rack to do a proper inspection? It's not that difficult to remove everything. There are so many things it could be, and on every forum there are people with leaks.

And another, deep impact blue.

What do you think?

Oh wow. Sorry to hear about all this. I've got 52,000 miles on mine. So now the reliability really starts to rear its ugly head. Could you share the part number? Maybe some pics showing the location? Any knowledge passed down is a godsend.

^ Looks pretty darn good!

Got mine back yesterday. I never had any problems, but I had it done anyway. I think mine listed a different part number. I will have to check later. Oh, and because they remove the negative battery terminal for the procedure, it wipes the function of some things. When I got home, my global open/close didn't work. I thought it was because of the power lose. But then I realized my one touch up and down on all the windows didn't work either. As soon as I reinitialized all my windows for one touch up and down, my global open and close worked again. They are such ass-clowns at my dealer.

video of the procedure