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Tl99cobra

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  1. I glued mine on with some industrial glue and it's been ok since.
  2. Washing my 5 month old aviator gt today and the trim between the smaller and larger rear passenger windows was hanging off. Nice job ford. And if you ever get your cars on a lift, the amount of surface rust on the suspension and shocks is ridiculous already. Check your window trim.
  3. Ok, so I figured out a couple of sources of vibration in my 21 gt. The first is a plastic door where two heater rubber pipes go through the firewall in the engine bay right in front of the driver. I sured this up with heat resistant sound proofing material and I then went from the back side through the fuse box access and removed the brake fluid reservoir and placed heat resistant tape and sound proofing material on the other side as well. I hope the photos are explanatory. After starting the aviator and putting it into drive I still had a noise vibration inside the vehicle. I chased it down to behind the carpet along the transmission tunnel. When I pressed on the carpeting adjacent to my right leg, the vibration would stop. I loosed some of the plastic trim in that area and found a large wire vibrating along the transmission tunnel behind the carpet as in the photo. I sured this up and the vibration stopped. Hopefully, I have a vibration noise free aviator now. Will let you know when I drive it more.
  4. Sorry to hear that. The engine is tucked back in the engine bay, I guess for balance and performance issues. And it's a loud engine (valve train and high pressure secondary fuel pump). A spark plug change would require removal of the rear cowl around the wipers to reach the back 2 plugs. Pretty silly. Anyway, I can't find anything vibrating from the top. I am going to take the bottom splash panel off from underneath this weekend and see if there is a shield hitting or vibrating from underneath right near center dash. If I can not find anything, I think it maybe harmonics from this engine at 850 to 1000 rpm and will try some heat resistant sound deadening material on the rear engine firewall. The harmonics would also occur then at 1700 to 2000 rpm, but by then engine revving noise would take over. Oh well.
  5. Hi all, Posted a similar question previously. Was wondering if anyone can pay close attention to their aviator in the situation of idling when cold and put into drive or reverse with foot on brake. I used to have a louder vibration but I have been working to get it better. I have a grand touring so I am not sure if it's worse in the gt as engine is cold more often since it runs plug in energy only alot for me in town. Anyhow, the ecoboost engine's fuel pumps and valve train is loud. And there is no engine cover on these engines on the manifold or heads. So there is some harmonic noises and I think vibration from this. So far have shured up some of the peripheral engine cover shielding which helped. I also found some sort of electrical plastic loom that was rattling right in front of the driver. This was found by taking off the fuse box plastic cover in engine bay and reaching down blindly with my hand where I could reach this loom and replicate a banging rattling vibration noise. I was able to put a velcro tape down there and stop that from shaking. I then shured up the heat shielding on the transmission under the vehicle which vibrated and also put the worm clamps on the flexible down pipe cat portions as per the recall ford issued a while back. So it's better now, but still when car is idling in gear or when I come to a red light, there are vibration sounds that are faint but audible in the cabin. Something is either still touching the firewall and vibrating or it's the harmonics of the fuel pump or loud drive train coming into cabin, vibrating firewall. Vibration not there off idle. Just seems like the quiet cabin should be more quiet. If anyone can turn their radio off and climate control off and see if they have this slight vibration and noise (worse when cold) idling in gear with brake on, I would appreciate it. I want to know if this could be normal before dealer tells me they think its normal or tries to find a solution to no avail. My wifes acura rdx does vibrate when cold to, so maybe normal? Thank you!
  6. Btw, I have a 2021 gt. Wondering if they got rid of the temp display 2021.
  7. Hi all, The numbers display on my climate control console are not working. I don't think they ever have, just noticed today after almost 3 months. The area where numbers are supposed to be are completely blank. I guess I have been just using the infotainment display to change my temp, as has my wife and never noticed numbers are blank. Anyone else notice this. Is there an on off switch for this display?
  8. Well I thought I mediated the noise. It's still there. I drive alot in electric only mode, but now that it's cold, happens alot more when engine kicks in. It happens in drive with brake on and stopped at a light. A rumbling noise from engine l, not metallic. Goes away with coming off idle and driving. Radio must be off to hear it. Anyone else notice this?
  9. Wow, that sucks. I mediated my noise. It was the plastic engine covering for me. Basically I went all around my plastic engine shrouding and wherever I could cause movement I tucked in some black cushy foam and firmed it all up and the noise went away. Yours does sound like a heat shield. Mine was only at idle on initial engine kick in from electric to gas engine status and at stop lights. Now I am working on trying to get the plastic surrounding my hud to sit down a little lower on the left side so it's more flush with rest of the dash. Basically tucking in paperback books between it and windshield at all times vehicle is sitting. But I think it will work finally in the summer when dash gets hot. Right now it's helping a little.
  10. The plastic, and it is very cheap plastic, surrounding my head up display unit is not sitting flush with the material against it just behind my steering wheel. The GT charging door and opening and closing mechanism is the cheapest I have ever seen. Cheaper than a Ford C-Max. The body panel gaps are sub par. The way the plastic engine cover panels are attached with cheap grommets that don't make them sit tight and flush. The body panels where the car is lifted for a tire change or on a lift are not seamed well and will rust in the future. My wife's rdx has a better panel and sealing of the seams. My 2014 explorer sport was better underneath than that. As a car guy, I also don't like that the 12v battery is under a shroud that when the time comes for a new battery, I have to take all that rear plastic paneling off and the washer fluid lines. Its just not quite what a 80k vehicle should be, although subtract some for the hybrid power plant, still not quite a 70k vehicle in my opinion, although I haven't been familiar with a 70k beemer or Mercedes or Volvo lately. Just compairing to my wife's rdx or even my old explorer. But I guess I should realize that the shell and panels are the same in a 32k explorer as even a black label aviator. The way they build them and most of the parts are the same, they just add more stuff, silencing material, leather, suspension, tech to get a 90k aviator.
  11. Hi all, 2021 aviator gt. Gotta say fit and finish is not worthy of an 80 k vehicle. Anyway, does anyone hear a vibration rattle when idling with transmission in drive from the engine. It's audible from inside with radio off only. It's probably audible from outside to which is embarrassing. It is not a heater fan as it is present when climate control is off too. Goes away off idle. It is not very loud, just annoying. I am thinking it may be the poorly constructed and worthless excessive engine cover shroud on the engine. The grommets that hold that cover on are junk and I can make all sorts of noises by pressing up and down on various parts of the cover. I just came in from garage and put a bunch of foam type pieces under a bunch of areas and will let you know if rattle goes away. Just wondering if others hear. It's a something vibrating from the engine movement at idle. Thanks.
  12. Hi, Hopefully its close. 5LMYJ8XY1MNL00044 thank you.
  13. Answered my own question by searching the forum. I quote member Coolscoop from another post: "GTs take longer to produce because painted bodies are transported from CAP to a special hybrid assembly line several blocks away for final assembly, then they go back to CAP for QC."
  14. From what I have read, if you drive in "preserve ev" mode, the engine will keep your battery at the level that it is at and maybe add a smidge more. It is difficult for the engine alone to charge these lithium batteries. Your engine will certainly never be able to match a 220v outlet, maybe get halfway to 3/4 toward a 110v outlet. If you think about it that it takes 11 hours to charge the battery to full from empty on 110v outlet, it would take longer than that for the engine to do it on its own. People have driven over an hour on the highway and only added on like 1 mile of range. Now, regenerative braking probably adds more, but highway driving won't help you much. You really need to capitalize on the plug in, to get the most out of the GT.
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