IUEC135ELEVATOR

You are such an ass....lol🤣🤣🤣

I orderedvtruck with snowplow/slide in camper package.... Not much roll and is a rougher ride....only reason I added those is because it added payload capacity.....but the truck does ride like a panzer tank

Ok...this. I built this truck with payload in mind. Starting at 4400 The wife, kids dog and I....-450lbs(ish) Crap loaded in the truck (above, below, behind the seats) -100lbs Tool box and all the crap in it -300lbs Aux fuel tank -100lbs Fuel in aux tank (6lbs per gallon x 51 gallons) -300lbs Fifth wheel hitch -150lbs. Now add up all that and my 4400 drops to a sad...3050 If you start with 2500...well, don't load too much on truck..IT ADDS UP FAST AS YOU CAN SEE! My truck max towing 5th/goose is 20k and 15k on reese hitch...with my cargo rating I can handle those weights to the max with hauling equipment or a 5th wheel camper (and 5k more on the goose if no one is looking😏) Now some guys go out and buy a f250/f350 with the high capacity tow package(250) to be able to drag 25k down the road and only have a 2500 cargo ...many are hauling a flatbed goose trailer that they balance the load as needed .... A 15/20/25K gooseneck trailer load of steel, pipe, concrete is much different to tow then the equivalent weight 5th wheel camper. You can change your pinweight on the gooseneck by shifting the load so your trailer and trailer load weight may be 25k and still only have a pinweight of 2000lbs, (or 1500 or 2500) if you haul enough you know where your "happy spot is on pinweight . now...You can "kinda" adjust it a bit on the 5th wheel but not by much...put your stuff in the back to lighten pin weight but then you are changing the dynamics of your tow in a very bad way! (Ask me how I know! LOL) Hate to say it but you bought the wrong truck for the trailer you want to tow.

Lol.... I assume lots of deductions and itemization See you at your traveling all over the country and working at the same time. .....well...and... You're the only name I could think of on short notice..🤣🤣🤣

So what was the reason? Did you figure out what it was?

We have done this in older 1/2 ton trucks and never had any issues...well because we were cheap and could get deals on the trucks/donor trucks or whatever. F550....what is the max weight you will be towing with that after the setup?

I don't have any info at all to offer about the drw conversion. But I did want to say: sorry to hear about your dad, I just lost mine 2 years ago and still find it rough at times...hard to go to mom and dads and walk into the garage, just does not feel right... Just wanted to say that...sorry to get off subject...

I agree with the Ford sync connecting is not good....my 2019 xl ( cheapy radio )connects to my phone immediately, but my 22 with the (middle grade?) Radio takes two or three tries. But all in all I love my 22 xlt it is a great truck with no real (piss me off) issues....there are a few little thing that I wish were different but so far (a year and a half and 10k miles its been a pleasant truck/drive/experience)

This does not make sense...you drained all coolant from system, drained all oil, changed some parts, added new oil, started truck without adding coolant but still got 2 quarts of coolant in the oil? you said 1 to 2 quarts in oil after starting. So you added 7qts of oil to repaired engine, when you emptied oil back out did you measure the oil? Would be 8 or 9 qts? Seeing that you said 1 or 2 qts I am assuming you did not measure it or you would have known exactly which it was. Could you have had some coolant that just did not drain out when you first emptied the oil? Even half a cup of water in 7 qts of oil will make the oil look as if it is full of water. Try draining and flushing oil again then fill with new and see. If the coolant system is not flowing and there is nothing to pump then there is no way to get water in the oil. Now if your block is cracked in the lower section....well... that is scenario 2. You don't need flow...it just leaks into the oil from gravity. I hope it's residual coolant not the latter.

Great looking truck! Also like the garage, the redish brown looks great with the dark brown....

I wouldn't use 4" as it would not have enough material past the attachment points (bolts) to counteract any fulcrum force (worst case senerio kinda shit). If you had 1 or 2 small kids in the back in a "worst case" situation with 4" plates, or thinner plates or wrong material, you would probably be OK, but if you had 3 large guys, you just significantly increased the forces of that seat being pulled in all directions violently. Used total of 9 (if I remember correctly) 6"x2"x.25" A572/60 plates with grade 8 bolts to seat and using all existing factory bolts for rear plate fasteners. Bolts have plenty of tensile strength to maintain and plates are ridged but would allow some deflection to keep from breaking factory bolts. Plates are 6" (total)to have enough surface area past bolts to lessen any outward fulcrum deformation(Once again, figuring for worst case, in a catostrophic wreck barrel roiling down a mountain with 3 fat dudes in the back) Holes are 3" apart to move seat 3" forward. With both front and rear plates (brackets) being 1/4" it only raises seat 1/4" up, no tilting. Yeah, I used more math on my seat modification than road turtle did on his 2022 taxes🤣🤣🤣

Moved the rear seat forward 3", with that it gives plenty of room for much more gear. Also added a modified and reinforced little safe for safe keeping when needed. No extra holes or modification of truck, everything can be put back or removed. There may be weak links, but not in my material or modification....the truck could barrel roll down a mountain and fly apart from the centrifugal force, but the rear seat is not budging!

Mine is kind of jumpy (by that I mean lunges a bit when put in Drive and when putting in park then taking my foot off the brake it may relax into her resting spot a few inches till it gets tension on the grearing) But not really any better or worse than any other truck I have ever driven. So how far is your truck rolling? A few inches or a few feet? In park the gearing should have a positive lock from the Trans to the axle...it is either not falling into gear 100% (adjustment), or you have some serious trans gearing/ shaft issues (not good). Tq conv forward is not an issue, clutches in the rear could be shot but you would see that while driving/pulling. Have anyone around with same similar setup of a truck you can compare. Getting a feel from drive to park, for sound/distance/feel of the shifter? Either way it's going to end up being a warranty issue covered, but downtime for your truck....that sucks! Always hated having a new or rebuilt (or large repair) transmission on my vehicles because they never work as smooth as the factory one that originally came with the vehicle... I have always done my own transmission work/rebuilds on the older stuff (Muncies, power glides, th350/400s, Saginaw, ect ect) But this new stuff is WAY out of my league! The Trans bench would have to go from 6ft to 25ft🤣🤣🤣

The drw gasser should have them. I have a 22 7.3 350 srw cc LB 4wd 4400 cargo (about as heavy duty as you can get in a srw) and mine just has a booster, and a 19 6.2 drw with a hydo. I guess the 7.3 creates enough vac for srw applications.

Custom made from Elevator guy industries... (....which means.....made out of an old cover in my barn...lol)