NH_Bulldog

I have never seen a Super Duty with the Easy Fuel capless filler, and I am not sure if it can be added. Part of the reason is that the Super Duty line can come through as a striped chassis (no bed) and the capless filler port needs to be protected from the weather and has a rubber seal around the fuel door. It might be able to be added with enough time, money and modifications, but I haven’t seen it (yet).

The hard roll is inside the bed rails and takes up 6” or more of bed space with no give. The soft roll is above the rails and can be squished if necessary, but really has no impact on bed length. I previously had a hard tri-fold that I could just disconnect and remove, but that left the bed open on trips once the cargo was taken out. I currently have a Truxedo TruXport and does everything I want and need

I would suspect a wheel bearing, or If you have a 4x4, maybe a u-joint or a bent steering knuckle. If they didn’t do an alignment with the new tires, you need to watch tire wear.

Keep in mind that auto hold is different from hill assist. I hated auto hold on my other truck and turned it off after the first use.

I just experienced this for the first time the other day. It started working again after about an hour and about 50 lock/unlock cycles, pushing the tab down, working the inside door handle, pushing the button back down, over and over. Then tried the power unlock and it worked okay again. Hopefully it doesn’t come back! I had to apologize to my wife because she was getting in to drive and I couldn’t open the passenger door and I thought she was playing with me…….ooooops

I always use full synthetic Mobil 1 with a Wix XP filter. About half my miles are towing campers, first a bumper pull 28’ and now a 36’ 5th wheel. The 7.3L with 10 speed transmission is a great combo

I am pushing 40k now and use the truck like it was intended. No issues whatsoever. Very strong and reliable engine.

Have you ever replaced the spark plug coils (coil-on-plugs)? If even one is bad it will throw all kinds of odd codes. When they go bad, they can’t produce the power needed for harder acceleration, but they will produce enough for slow and gentle acceleration. If you have never replaced them, it is past due and should be done regardless.

E-brake is set, yes?

I have had trailer disconnected dash warnings a few times. I used spray cleaner and it has been fine since.

I agree, the truck is not sensing the right amount of resistance. A similar issue (on a different scale) can happen when LED lights are used to replace incandescent lights. The computer is programmed to sense the load and resistance of one thing, but when when changed, you need to “trick” it to think it is sensing what it expects. In both cases, a resistance module needs to be added.

You might try modifying the settings in Forscan so the computer “recognizes” the lights.

I get a PCO a couple of times a year. I just received one the other day for $2,000 off, plus it can be combined with X-plan. I used the one from last year ($3,000 off on top of X-plan) to buy my current truck.

The charging circuit wire (10 gauge) to the 7-pin outlet and then the RV power cord is only rated to carry 5 amps at 12vdc. We have 2 Group 27 FLA Deep Cycle batteries and after 2 days of dry camping without solar and not running the generator, we were fully charged by the time we reached our next campsite. The truck has dual batteries and dual alternators, but with a max amp throughput from the truck to trailer at 5 amps, having 397 amps of alternator output is a bit overkill, but it is what it is.

My F150 needed a reprogram after a new battery was installed. But with a dual battery setup, the truck never loses power, so that step can be skipped. As far as going from FLA to AGM type, it shouldn’t make any difference in the system. If you went to lithium there might be an issue, but AGM is fine. Both of my stock FLA batteries show signs of leakage, and I was thinking of going with AGM as well since they are sealed.