NH_Bulldog

I have never seen a Super Duty with the Easy Fuel capless filler, and I am not sure if it can be added. Part of the reason is that the Super Duty line can come through as a striped chassis (no bed) and the capless filler port needs to be protected from the weather and has a rubber seal around the fuel door. It might be able to be added with enough time, money and modifications, but I haven’t seen it (yet).

The hard roll is inside the bed rails and takes up 6” or more of bed space with no give. The soft roll is above the rails and can be squished if necessary, but really has no impact on bed length. I previously had a hard tri-fold that I could just disconnect and remove, but that left the bed open on trips once the cargo was taken out. I currently have a Truxedo TruXport and does everything I want and need

I would suspect a wheel bearing, or If you have a 4x4, maybe a u-joint or a bent steering knuckle. If they didn’t do an alignment with the new tires, you need to watch tire wear.

Keep in mind that auto hold is different from hill assist. I hated auto hold on my other truck and turned it off after the first use.

I just experienced this for the first time the other day. It started working again after about an hour and about 50 lock/unlock cycles, pushing the tab down, working the inside door handle, pushing the button back down, over and over. Then tried the power unlock and it worked okay again. Hopefully it doesn’t come back! I had to apologize to my wife because she was getting in to drive and I couldn’t open the passenger door and I thought she was playing with me…….ooooops

I always use full synthetic Mobil 1 with a Wix XP filter. About half my miles are towing campers, first a bumper pull 28’ and now a 36’ 5th wheel. The 7.3L with 10 speed transmission is a great combo

I am pushing 40k now and use the truck like it was intended. No issues whatsoever. Very strong and reliable engine.

Have you ever replaced the spark plug coils (coil-on-plugs)? If even one is bad it will throw all kinds of odd codes. When they go bad, they can’t produce the power needed for harder acceleration, but they will produce enough for slow and gentle acceleration. If you have never replaced them, it is past due and should be done regardless.

E-brake is set, yes?

I have had trailer disconnected dash warnings a few times. I used spray cleaner and it has been fine since.

I agree, the truck is not sensing the right amount of resistance. A similar issue (on a different scale) can happen when LED lights are used to replace incandescent lights. The computer is programmed to sense the load and resistance of one thing, but when when changed, you need to “trick” it to think it is sensing what it expects. In both cases, a resistance module needs to be added.

You might try modifying the settings in Forscan so the computer “recognizes” the lights.

I get a PCO a couple of times a year. I just received one the other day for $2,000 off, plus it can be combined with X-plan. I used the one from last year ($3,000 off on top of X-plan) to buy my current truck.

The charging circuit wire (10 gauge) to the 7-pin outlet and then the RV power cord is only rated to carry 5 amps at 12vdc. We have 2 Group 27 FLA Deep Cycle batteries and after 2 days of dry camping without solar and not running the generator, we were fully charged by the time we reached our next campsite. The truck has dual batteries and dual alternators, but with a max amp throughput from the truck to trailer at 5 amps, having 397 amps of alternator output is a bit overkill, but it is what it is.

My F150 needed a reprogram after a new battery was installed. But with a dual battery setup, the truck never loses power, so that step can be skipped. As far as going from FLA to AGM type, it shouldn’t make any difference in the system. If you went to lithium there might be an issue, but AGM is fine. Both of my stock FLA batteries show signs of leakage, and I was thinking of going with AGM as well since they are sealed.

It sounds like it had an “oh crap” moment! I have experienced similar issues but not at the same time or under circumstances as dire as yours. Once was coasting over a speed bump, and then pressing on the gas only to feel like it slipped into neutral and it revved up. The trucked slowed, the rpm’s came back down and then it accelerated fine. It only did it that one time. One thing I notice all the time though is the poor throttle response. If you “floor” it, it just sits there and thinks about it and whimpers. I have found that you really need a light touch on the peddle to get it to do anything. It is an electronic throttle, so there is no cable/instant response like the good old days, but that also means there is a solution……Banks Peddle Monster if you really need/want that instant feedback.

This has always seemed to shift hard out of Park, not smooth at all but I chalked it up to it being a Super Duty and not the F150 I had before. I understand what you mean about the “settling in” feeling after putting it into Park, and I have that too. The rolling started this winter with all the cold, ice, and road salt/sand. I would park in one part of my driveway with a very slight uphill slope, place in Park and shut the truck off. As I took my foot off the brake pedal, the truck would roll backwards a foot or more. I stepped on the brake again, restarted the truck and cycled into Drive then back to Park and it seemed to hold. Then I started parking in a different part of the driveway with a slight downward slope (our 30 ft travel trailer is parked there so it isn’t steep). I came out one morning and the truck had rolled forward 10 ft into trailer power jack on the tongue. It must have been a slow roll since nothing was dented or damaged. The weather warmed up a bit last week so I ran it through a car wash with undercarriage spray and it hasn’t tried to roll more than the typical “settling in” that is to be expected. I don’t mind using the parking brake since that is why it’s there, but have never had to with any of my vehicles over the past 10 years we have lived here. The next time I get a chance to get it up on ramps, I will look for any obvious issues, but will probably have it seen at the dealer before too long to at least document the concern.

The grade is anywhere from 1% to 2%

I have a 2022 F250 with 7.3L gas and 10 speed transmission and about 20,000 miles. A few times this winter I have put the truck in Park in our driveway, and it started to roll then stopped. Initially I thought it was sliding on the ice, but last night I parked on the gravel part of my driveway and came out this morning to find it resting against the hitch of travel trailer. I read there was an issue with the 10 speed transmissions and the 6.7L diesels a couple of years ago, but can’t find anything recent. Has anyone else experienced this issue? I am now using the E-brake everywhere I park, but it isn’t a longterm solution.

You are fine. I wouldn’t call them overload springs though. The spring pack is designed to progressively engage under increasing load. Once you add enough weight, the load simply engages that last heavy duty spring leaf like it’s supposed to.

They used to only do F-150 mods, but when they started ops here in the US they built that F-350 with the 6.7L diesel. You can read about them here: https://arctictrucks.us/

I have had a Raptor and an XLT F150 and now have an F250. There is a huge difference in ride comfort between any half ton and a Super Duty. I do a lot of towing and although both F150’s (XLT and Raptor) had the power and comfort, the towing experience was so squirrelly that it was actually physically exhausting. Not so with the Super Duty and that is as intended, it's a heavy duty truck. So if you want a squishy ride, excellent off road capability and only tow a smaller trailer or tow infrequently over short distances, sticking with the Raptor sounds like a good fit for you.

My truck (2022 F250 with FX4) came with 275/70R18E raised white letter Goodyear Wrangler All Terrain Adventure with Kevlar. They supposedly have a 60,000 mile treadwear rating, but I will be lucky to get 30-35,000 out of them. The tread pattern is not impressive and winter traction is absolutely horrible, even when I lower pressure for the winter and have sandbags in the bed. I have never been impressed with factory tires and these are no different. The only exception were the Firestone Wilderness AT’s that came on my Explorer. Those were great tires despite some people having issues that led to the big recall.

I have this piece and fortunately it is in place and looks good as-is. I am not sure of it’s function, but if it were me, I would be having the dealer fix it to my satisfaction.

My build was 3/22/22 and the price was $1,695. My build from 2016 was $1,195 so all things considered, $1,895 doesn’t sound too bad.