MountainLion

Thanks. I did that and it has been A-OK all week long!

2016 with the 3.5 NA and 6 speed automatic. I only have 4 stop lights on my commute and 95% of it is at 55 to 60 MPH.

I'm hoping I can get some help with this one, my Googling has turned up a whole lot nothing. 2013 Fusion SE 1.6 Turbo MFT 6-speed manual. Background - 99,061 miles and had the A/C compressor replaced at the dealership because the A/C wasn't blowing cold anymore and the indy shops here suck. Picked it up $845 lighter for a compressor replacement and the dealer had to jump start it with a box because it was a "no fire/no crank." Paperwork said battery tested good, 500CCA. Service department said it was the hood that was left up partially to drain the battery. Drove home from town the long way, 25 miles, on Saturday, after declining to have it put on the testing machine, because they said it would be allright if I charged it up. Started it Sunday, everything was fine, did not drive it - I do 700 miles a week Monday to Friday so I try to not drive at all on the weekends. Drove it to work Monday and it was fine - 133 miles. Got in Tuesday morning and it was all wrong. Turned the key to start and the MFT screens to the left and right of the speedometer were white (like opening the doors) and the center stack was all white, speedometer was dark, but the engine was running. I cut it off, and restarted, and got the same thing again - I drove it up and down my driveway the the speedometer dark and dead at 0, and everything else a bright white, no rear view camera. Cut it off again, and restarted a 3rd time. This time, after about 5 seconds, the white screens went away, and the center stack showed MFT, and the screens to the left and right of the speedometer were fine, as well as the speedometer being lit up, but got a host of warnings, but backup camera worked. The warnings were blindspot disabled, stability control disabled, see manual with a wrench. Cut it off a 3rd time, started it back up, and got all the gauges and MFT, but it threw up a hill start disabled, as well as the 3 previous warnings. Check engine light on, Stability control light on, Stability control off light on. Needless to say, got pissed and drove the F-150 to work. Got home that night, and threw my OBD-II scanner on it. The only code that it threw that afternoon was P1934 - from my internet deductions (I only have a $60 Craftsman scanner) was VSS error - no warnings on startup - and no white screens either. Reset the code and all is well. 133 miles to work and back today. Anybody have any clue on this one? I just want to fix it - 35.9 MPG is a helluva lot better than the F150 at 22.7.

Mine threw that code at about 45,000 miles. I cleared it, it came back. Went away at about 50,000. Hasn't come back yet at 93,000.

40k is pretty early for a belt. I have 88k on my 2013 and my belt is fine. Got 160k out of my serpentine on my 99 Mustang. Changed the original on my 96 Bronco this spring at 188k. Ditto on the alignment comment above.

Dexcool. Believe it or not.

Yup. Sometimes mine confuses my fence for a car. Other times its the hedge on the other side. Either way the manual head swivel shows all clear.

I meant that I never tried them after I had the windshield replaced. Tried them when I first got it, would just rather control them myself.

No I did not have a calibration done. Had an OEM windshield installed by a small independent company - first one they had ever done. Owner had to study up on how to do it. Everything works the way it did before the windshield was fixed - lane departure, rain wipers, etc. Never tried the auto-dim headlights, I do not like them.

I have 73,000 miles on my 2013 1.6L Ecoboost/manual, with MyFordTouch touchscreen/haptic controls. I commute about 110 miles per day, 90%highway/10% city. The only thing that I've had to do outside of oil changes, 1 air filter, 1 set of tires, and 1 set of wipers is add about a quart and a half of coolant. Lifetime MPG from new is 33.5 MPG. The aero dam underneath the engine is pretty easy to take off/put on. Put it up on ramps and get out a battery-operated drill and the Torx-whatever to take take them off and put them on. There are a lot of bolts. There are two silly clips that also hold it up that are a bear to get off the first few times, but by oil change #6 they don't put up a fight. However the oil change interval is 10k so I only do it every 4-5 months. After the aero dam is off the oil change is dead easy. The plug and filter are very accessible, and oil doesn't get anywhere it shouldn't (unlike my '07 Mustang GT which soiled hoses everytime the filter was taken out). I have only had 1 instances of the MyFordTouch system acting weird which fixed itself on a restart. The 1.6L Ecoboost/manual was offered in 2013 and 2014 but is very hard to find. I had to special order mine because I wanted the luxury package with it. Dealer did a search for me when I told him what I wanted in January 2013 and showed 0 nationwide in that combination.

Very late to this topic. I had the windshield replaced in mine. Paid $618 out of pocket for OEM but with $500 glass deductible it was pretty much a wash. Glass shop refused to do repair outside of their shop due to the rain sensing wipers (they had never done one before - but were on point enough to ask me if I had it). Lane keeping and everything else works afterward.

After having 2 transmission rebuilds in my wife's 2012 Fiesta in 70,000 miles, I'll pass.

I wish I would have had my phone to take a picture of some weirdness my 2013 with MFT gave me the other day. Started it up after work and the climate on the home screen showed 08 degrees with the heater blowing full (shut it off getting to work at HI and lowest blower setting). Tried turning the temperature up and it went from 08 to 25 then HI, went back down and it went to 05 then LO. Went into settings and everything was still US units - the degrees on top of the MFT display were in F, showing 56 degrees ambient F, but HVAC showing LO and the 05 one button push up. Cut the car off, and it was normal again (heater showed 60F), but the A/C was on (when it wasn't before) and My Temp was wiped out (pushing the button had no effect for my previous setting - 72). Reset My Temp at 72 and cut off A/C and all was right. Strange.

Hello everybody, Thanks for your input on the last transmission problem my wife's Fiesta transmission. Ford covered the 2nd rebuild on her transmission at 61,000 miles becuase it spit out the codes referenced in the letter offered with the warranty to 125,000 miles. The 21,000 mile rebuild was covered under standard powertrain warranty. However, it now has 85,000 miles and the shudder of doom (as I've taken to calling it) is back - it feels just like it did the last two times but has not gotten to the point where it is as bad as before - only occasionally on the 1-2 shift and not every time. My natural response is to get the zone rep name and number, but realistically I know that really will not go anywhere. Needless to say, if my wife was not a Ford Fan she would never consider one again. Does anyone think we can get the dealership to give us a fair trade in on something else (and yes - I have been barking up the "you should learn to drive stick and never have the problem again tree" and she might just be there)?

My Aunt has a 2013 Fusion in Ohio and she got a recall letter a few weeks ago for her bolts and had the bolts replaced, a friend of hers had his fail in Ohio before the recall. I just got my letter for my 2013 and since I live in Virginia it said that since I live in a low salt state there was no recall for my vehicle, but that I do have a free one-time replacement for the affected parts if it should fail. I'm guessing that you'll probably get the letter that I got.

Thanks for the info. I'll sort it out myself then!

2013 Fusion 1.6, 48,500 miles. My check engine light came on with a P1441 code. I cleared it with my scanner but it keeps popping back up, within 40 miles of clearing it. Has anyone any advice on this? Googling around I cannot get any definitive use by Ford for this code. The internet says it is "EVAP system failed to purge." I hate to take it to the dealer, as the only dealer around here I trust is 40 miles away and I'm not too keen on paying people to work on my cars. Any advice out there?

I've never put anything other than 87 in my 1.6 Ecoboost because my 700 mile weeks do not justify the extra cost.

That's exactly what happened the first time. Thanks for all the information guys - hopefully it will make things go more smoothly when we get around to taking it in again.

My wife bought a 2012 Fiesta new and at 21,000 miles the automatic transmission was consistently shuddering into 2nd gear once the car was up to temperature. The dealership found that a seal was improperly installed and rebuilt the transmission, replacing the 2-4-6 clutch amongst other things, under warranty. Well now she has 61,000 miles on it and it is now shuddering from takeoff, into 2nd, and into 3rd once the car is warm. At this point I doubt that another rebuild will last. What are the chances of getting Ford to pick up some (or all) of the cost for a 3rd transmission?

My Aunt had her tranny die at 150k in her 2007 Fusion 2.3 4 cylinder. The shop that repaired it said that those transmissions were notorious for failure. But if my information is correct the 2.5 has a different transmission that is much better. As for positives they are pretty darn reliable. My Aunt only had 1 other problem than the transmission, and that was premature driver seat wear which I understand was sorted out. She got great mileage, as do I, for the size of the car. Compared to my wife's "problem child" Fiesta, my Fusion is a model of reliability.

Thanks for the knowledge about signaling and intent. I never usually signal at that intersection because it is a dedicated lane with a yield sign - but I had someone riding my butt. And thanks for letting me know it is not adjustable - I've gotten annoyed more than a few times with it not cancelling when I thought it should have - and then fighting with it, but not with a full on brakes-to-the-floor panic stop. I'll probably just avoid that area on my commute home. It is a poorly-designed intersection anyway.

Hello everybody, I was wondering if there was a way to increase the sensitivity of the turn signals that return to the center to self cancel? The reason I ask is that I was almost in an accident because of it today. I turned right with my signal on, and it was not a 90 degree turn, more like 50 degrees, but one that should cancel the signals. The signal did not cancel (which I did not notice) and the car in front of me turned right, and someone pulled out right in front of me. I laid on the horn and managed to stop in time, but as she went past she pointed to the right. And that is when I noticed my right signal was still on. Of course I felt like an absolute jerk. Is increasing the self-cancelling possible? Or do I have to just use the tap-to-three-blink more?

Thanks. The Stoner spray to get is the foaming kind in the spray can. I don't bother with Windex anymore, anywhere. The Folex carpet cleaner pulled a nasty liquid ink pen stain out of a passenger seat for me. And I use a carpet machine to suck dry the carpets after I hit it with the cleaner and a stiff brush. Yeah, Dave-S, the magic eraser can definitely scratch shiny surfaces and do some serious damage to leather. But I primarily use it on hidden areas, like the backs of door pulls and the backs of the turn signal switches, or on heavily textured vinyl surfaces, like steering wheels that are not leather. It will take the markings off of the fronts of the switches in a quick fashion.

You didn't mention cleaning the interior, but I have 3 products that I have used for years with success and without a problem. The first is Stoner Invisible Glass spray. It is a great glass cleaner that also works on other surfaces without ruining them. I use it on all my glass, hard plastics, vinyl, and leather (but I condition the leather afterwards). The second is the magic eraser. It quickly takes all the gunk off the frequently touched areas like the steering wheel, switches, door pulls and the like. The third is Folex Carpet Spot Cleaner. I had an ink pen leak all over a cloth seat, and nothing would touch the stain. After repeated tries with other cleaners, and having set in after months, it pulled the ink out of the seat no problem, and looked brand new afterwards.