4.6 Motor Oil Recomendations?

[KdF]

Someone get me a Mechanic.

 

Someone grab the Engineer.

 

Someone tell me PLEASE why I would want to put 5W 20 motor oil on a 4.6 mustang GT. Especially living in Austin , Texas where it gets below freezing maybe twice a year. The average summer temps are allways in the upper 90`s and we have had strings of 10 to 20 over 100 degrees F days each and every year. I can see using this weight for the first 500 miles , but having been a Mechanic type most all of my life , I would exprct to be putting in 10W-30 at the least.

 

Am I wrong?

 

Has something Changed?

 

Will I watch my new engine burn up driving home in August?

 

:shrug:

[Fang]

I have been closely studying my oil use in my 6r which takes 5w-30 and have come to the conclusion that the oil seems to braek down at 2000 miles.

:blink:

[gt5001]

>Someone tell me PLEASE why I would want to put 5W 20 motor oil on a 4.6 mustang GT.

 

If it is the recommended weight that would be one.

 

Oil, like a lot of things on cars, has changed significantly in the last decade. I'm an old timer from "the heavier the better and you never go more than 3,000 miles" school. Still change it at 3,000 and I use the recommended Motorcraft. At less than $2 a quart for half synthetic, that's a buy!

 

I'm not an expert but I don't think the ambient temperature in Austin, Texas, is going to make a big difference in what oil you use. It gets hot & cold a lot of places in the good ole US of A.

[ford4v429]

I always used to run heavier oils too- but in reading, I guess the "bearing clearance on performance engine train of thought" has shifted gears...used to be racing engines ran kinda on the loose side, but now I hear clearances are tighter than ever- tight enough perhaps heavier oil wont flow? dunno...the biggest reason for the tight clearance I believe is to allow high performance on watery thin oils, as this can reduce 'rope effect' drag, maybe giving a few percent better MPG (+HP) and I'm not sure, but would also guess there may even be a emissions improvement(although you'd think thinner would get past rings/guides easier- but again perhaps those are tighter now too).

 

I wont get into what I'd use, as everyone has their own opinions/logic as to whats best, but I'm pretty sure theres two suggestions 99% of ford/gm/ricer guys would still agree on-

 

1) Change it regularly, and dont mix brands

 

2) consider an 'accusump' to eliminate startup wear- this alone might triple the life of your engine by eliminating 'dry cranking'. I'd love to have one just for the first few seconds after changing the oil...the couple seconds till the oil light goes out is hell on the engine- especially with the high idle startup on most injected cars. Only drawback to accusump after changing oil is diluting fresh oil with a little old oil, but if that oil was changed before it was shot, a half a quart in the mix aint gonna hurt you.

 

I always try to prefill my filters as much as possible too, but many cars you just cant...even 1/3 prefill will cut a second or so out of the 'running with zero pressure' at initial startup- and please: ALWAYS look inside your filter for metal shavings...Ive found a couple with a chip from threading stuck inside the center hole...I think the holes are form tapped to prevent this, but if the tap is worn or chipped, it can leave a big nasty piece of metal somewhere it shouldnt be.