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Help with a couple of issues with my 2004


Andrew L

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I know this may not be the best forum to ask for this but I am hoping maybe someone here has dealt with these issues or knows how to deal with them...

 

1. I am having a very hard time getting Homelink to work on my garage and I am wondering if my garage door is too new for it, I don't think that's the case but know it could be a possibility. My house was built in 2019 and its a Liftmaster with MyQ. The garage door openers that came with it have clips that are way too wide for the sun visors and they fall off every time I pull the visor down and I really just want to use the built in Homelink buttons.
- I cleared all the codes by holding down the outer buttons and wait for it to flash rapidly.
- I hold down the first button and the button on the remote but it never flashes rapidly only slowly like it can't detect the signal from the remote.
Just to add I did order a new overhead console on eBay in the event that my Homelink module is bad but I have a hard time believing it's bad. Hoping someone out there has some ideas.

2. My passenger side air vent is cracked I was able to find a NOS one and it's been ordered just waiting on it to arrive. In the mean time I am not sure how to replace it. I was able to pull the wood trim off on the dash and the screw holes for the vent are behind the air bag cover on the dash. My question is can I just pop that off or do I need to disable the battery first and is it actually screwed in? I don't want to damage the car or cause the air bag to pop.

1689690571251.png.15f44da404a46ccdeb295ef254218d49.png

3. The glove compartment light has been hanging since I bought it. I didn't realize it at the time but the clip that holds it broke off. I was able to buy a new one since they are still made and it arrived and the clip is in one piece but now I am not sure how to get the old clip out that hangs from the top of the opening. See pictures. I tried sticking my hand up in there to feel for a screw but it feels like there's a bar in the way.

1689690694220.thumb.png.46e55ef2be412a6666ac670a6b79d506.png1689690682111.thumb.png.f56c4de6c3752af1a42eb80097c0d9f3.png



4. Lastly this is probably SOL thing but figured I would ask anyway. Does anyone know where to find a new rear panel that goes on the glass hatch? I know this is a VERY common problem with Explorers, Mountaineers, and Aviators. The plastic is thin and cracks easily. I was fine with the crack it had in it but the logo fell off and took a chunk with it. I have a new rear emblem but I would like to fix the hole first before putting it on. I was thinking of bondo but someone said that won't work. Any leads or ideas on this one?

1689690906993.thumb.png.4ed0a8f7fa594f88d3cccc9eff44a5b1.png



That's all for now hopefully someone here can point me in the right direction or help. I did join the "Lincoln Aviator Issues" group on Facebook but have not received any responses on these items above.

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Going strictly from memory I think you hold the home link button for 20-30 seconds until it starts flashing rapidly then press the opener button within an inch or so of the home link module.  On my genie I think I also had to hit the program button on the opener the press home link a couple of times.

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1 hour ago, akirby said:

Going strictly from memory I think you hold the home link button for 20-30 seconds until it starts flashing rapidly then press the opener button within an inch or so of the home link module.  On my genie I think I also had to hit the program button on the opener the press home link a couple of times.

 

Yea so holding the 2 outer buttons till it flashes fast erases all memory in there.  That part works

 

When I go to program like you said you hold down the button you want as well as holding down the button on the remote about an inch or two away from the home link module and eventually the light will start rapidly flashing that means it has the signal. 

 

Then last step you hit learn on the garage door motor and hold down the button on Homelink and it will be linked. 

 

However I am getting stuck on step two I am holding the button on the remote and button 1 on Homelink and it's just not flashing rapidly only slowly.   I did TRY to hit learn anyway on the motor and hold that button down in the truck but no luck.  I remember I had a really hard time programming my LS when I had it and then one day it just worked fine and never gave me any issues.  I am wondering if the module is bad or if it's just too old but I can't imagine that's the case since these Homelink systems from what I can tell have not changed at all since they started throwing them in cars. I was able to program my MKZ with no issue at all.

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On 7/18/2023 at 1:24 PM, Andrew L said:

I know this may not be the best forum to ask for this but I am hoping maybe someone here has dealt with these issues or knows how to deal with them...

 

1. I am having a very hard time getting Homelink to work on my garage and I am wondering if my garage door is too new for it, I don't think that's the case but know it could be a possibility. My house was built in 2019 and its a Liftmaster with MyQ. The garage door openers that came with it have clips that are way too wide for the sun visors and they fall off every time I pull the visor down and I really just want to use the built in Homelink buttons.
- I cleared all the codes by holding down the outer buttons and wait for it to flash rapidly.
- I hold down the first button and the button on the remote but it never flashes rapidly only slowly like it can't detect the signal from the remote.
Just to add I did order a new overhead console on eBay in the event that my Homelink module is bad but I have a hard time believing it's bad. Hoping someone out there has some ideas.

2. My passenger side air vent is cracked I was able to find a NOS one and it's been ordered just waiting on it to arrive. In the mean time I am not sure how to replace it. I was able to pull the wood trim off on the dash and the screw holes for the vent are behind the air bag cover on the dash. My question is can I just pop that off or do I need to disable the battery first and is it actually screwed in? I don't want to damage the car or cause the air bag to pop.

1689690571251.png.15f44da404a46ccdeb295ef254218d49.png

3. The glove compartment light has been hanging since I bought it. I didn't realize it at the time but the clip that holds it broke off. I was able to buy a new one since they are still made and it arrived and the clip is in one piece but now I am not sure how to get the old clip out that hangs from the top of the opening. See pictures. I tried sticking my hand up in there to feel for a screw but it feels like there's a bar in the way.

1689690694220.thumb.png.46e55ef2be412a6666ac670a6b79d506.png1689690682111.thumb.png.f56c4de6c3752af1a42eb80097c0d9f3.png



4. Lastly this is probably SOL thing but figured I would ask anyway. Does anyone know where to find a new rear panel that goes on the glass hatch? I know this is a VERY common problem with Explorers, Mountaineers, and Aviators. The plastic is thin and cracks easily. I was fine with the crack it had in it but the logo fell off and took a chunk with it. I have a new rear emblem but I would like to fix the hole first before putting it on. I was thinking of bondo but someone said that won't work. Any leads or ideas on this one?

1689690906993.thumb.png.4ed0a8f7fa594f88d3cccc9eff44a5b1.png



That's all for now hopefully someone here can point me in the right direction or help. I did join the "Lincoln Aviator Issues" group on Facebook but have not received any responses on these items above.

 

#1.  I recently went through this issue when I installed a new Craftsman MyQ garage door opener (made by Liftmaster) at my son's house.  It replaced a 20-year old Craftsman chain-drive model.

 

The new MyQ garage door opener would not program to his 2012 Impala.  He has a 2022 Ford Explorer and it programmed fine.  After a little online research, I learned that the "older" Homelink controllers (and another brand that I don't remember the name) are not compatible with the new MyQ system.  The instruction manual made NO mention of this issue - and the outside of the box did not also.

 

I did a little on line research and quickly learned one company made a "bridge" to connect the old system to the new MyQ openers - but the company went out of business.  I did not save the online link that had a very good explanation on why the new system is not compatible with the old Homelink car systems.

 

I suspect your car is similar to my son's 2012 Impala.  For that car he is now using the supplied garage door opener controler.

 

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19 hours ago, 1999 White C5 Coupe said:

 

#1.  I recently went through this issue when I installed a new Craftsman MyQ garage door opener (made by Liftmaster) at my son's house.  It replaced a 20-year old Craftsman chain-drive model.

 

The new MyQ garage door opener would not program to his 2012 Impala.  He has a 2022 Ford Explorer and it programmed fine.  After a little online research, I learned that the "older" Homelink controllers (and another brand that I don't remember the name) are not compatible with the new MyQ system.  The instruction manual made NO mention of this issue - and the outside of the box did not also.

 

I did a little on line research and quickly learned one company made a "bridge" to connect the old system to the new MyQ openers - but the company went out of business.  I did not save the online link that had a very good explanation on why the new system is not compatible with the old Homelink car systems.

 

I suspect your car is similar to my son's 2012 Impala.  For that car he is now using the supplied garage door opener controler.

 

That must be it then, I did search MyQ Homelink Bridge and it looks like Chamberlain the parent company of liftmaster makes one: https://www.chamberlain.com/homelink-compatibility-bridge/p/HOMELINK+RPTRMC

 

If I am reading that right this might be what I need.  Comments are ripping Chamerlain for not including this with their garage doors already and I agree with them it seems pretty silly to leave this out and charge someone after the fact.  Going to do more research but if this is what I need I will order 2 since my 3 car garage has 2 physical doors one big one and one little one.

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3 hours ago, Andrew L said:

 

That must be it then, I did search MyQ Homelink Bridge and it looks like Chamberlain the parent company of liftmaster makes one: https://www.chamberlain.com/homelink-compatibility-bridge/p/HOMELINK+RPTRMC

 

If I am reading that right this might be what I need.  Comments are ripping Chamerlain for not including this with their garage doors already and I agree with them it seems pretty silly to leave this out and charge someone after the fact.  Going to do more research but if this is what I need I will order 2 since my 3 car garage has 2 physical doors one big one and one little one.

 

What frustrated me is that Chamberlain did NOT include information regarding the lack-of-compatibility with certain, older model vehicles in their printed manual (or box exterior), which caused us significant wasted time by repeatedly trying to program the car to the opener.

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19 hours ago, 1999 White C5 Coupe said:

 

What frustrated me is that Chamberlain did NOT include information regarding the lack-of-compatibility with certain, older model vehicles in their printed manual (or box exterior), which caused us significant wasted time by repeatedly trying to program the car to the opener.

 

I agree there are still plenty of cars on the road that have the older signal that wont work and if you go to their website there's nothing about this you have to dig for it.  Homelinks website is a mess too.  When you put in Lincoln it has every model ever from 2007 to 2023.  Yea let me get info on how to program my 2010 Lincoln LS or 2010 Lincoln Aviator ya know models that don't exist lol.  I watched a few videos on that part I posted above and seems pretty easy to install still a bit pissed I have to buy 2 30 dollar parts to get it to work and it's just a small chip in that box like they really couldn't have added this in the original design? What ever I will be happy once I can take the remote out of the truck and just use the built in one.  Thanks for filling me in on this.  I asked on a few groups on facebook too and they were all telling me I was doing it wrong.

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  • 8 months later...

Figured I would post an update for anyone wondering.  Someone was able to get me a technical document from Ford on how to partially disassemble the dash to replace the vent and the glove box light.  Those have been taken care of now.

 

The garage door works with the adapter that 1999 White C5 Coupe informed me about, thanks again!

 

The rear panel under the glass I used some filler to fill in and spray painted the logo area black, I have clear plastic emblem that goes in it's spot and my friend is going to paint it for me.  So at some point that will be as good as I can get it.

 

Now what I have done since then....

 

2 months ago my g/f's father gave me a hand with fixing the drivers seat you could hear the motor running but the seat wasn't moving forward and back only up and down.  Turns out the gears inside the motor are plastic and tend to strip very easily.  Almost every Aviator, Mountaineer, and Explorer I found in the junk yard had non working power drivers seats.  I found on ebay a guy who recreates the gears in metal and bought the set.  This project was an absolute nightmare and I may have bit off more than I could chew but we got it done.  The worst part was the seat was riveted together not screwed together so disassembly meant having to weld it back together when done.  Happy to say I have a working power drivers seat again though.  And before anyone asks no the power seat rack and motor are EOL and not in stock at any Ford parts sites.

 

Last month I did my first oil change on my own and it went pretty smooth.  I am pushing myself to do things more on my own to fix it up and try to return it to it's former glory.

 

Last week I had the headlights refinished, they were starting to cloud up but weren't horrible yet.  Somehow the fog lights were already starting to yellow but the headlights were not yellowing just yet.  I found a guy in the Tampa area who does this for a living and he came out to my work and wet sanded them, buffed them, and used a UV Clearcoat on them to keep them from getting messed up again.  Took him about an hour to do but the results speak for themselves and I couldn't be happier.

 

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Edited by Andrew L
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