YT90SC

One MAJOR problem with sliders: can you fill the fuel tank with the door open?

What shape is the ignition system in?

What happened to the engine? If it is anything like most of the fire depts we see, they didn't change the oil. Most change by miles, not engine hours and the engine REALLY suffers due to it. 200 engine hours and the oil MUST be changed. Unfortunately, most trucks in that kind of service see much more than 200 hours between changes as they idle for EXTENDED periods in their usage.

Ford-boy, if the cruise still works, it was not unhooked. Better get it back to the servicing dealer and have them re-check it. It cannot work with the switch out of the loop. If it is unhooked, there is something majorly wrong and it should be inspected anyway.

p0403 is an egr code, but not a valid one for an f-150. did you mean p0430?. Antifreeze in the wells is from an intake gasket leak, or someone changing a t-stat without cleaning up after themselves. OR if it is the #4 it could be that the hose that runs over the top of it is leaking at the connection. Either way, fix that FIRST. Clean out the holes, put new coils on the holes with antifreeze in them, and new coil boots for all of them. Should take care of the miss. If you put new plugs in with old boots or put new plugs in where there is still antifreeze, they are now junk.

Not legally. It is a BIG fine for ANY shop (dealer or aftermarket) to disconnect or disable it. 10K per incident comes to mind. Federal law. Install the sensors or let the bulb burn.

YES, your truck has the government mandated pressure monitoring. You don't absolutely HAVE to reset the sensors each time you rotate. It just won't necessarily tell you exactly which tire is low. IF you rotated the tires and the tire that is on the left front is low, it might say the right rear, etc. resetting will get them back in the proper location to the location stored in memory. Dealerships have the tool.

Unfortunately, you are a minority. The general public DOESN"T want to see their oil pressure moving up and down. Voltage either. They don't understand that pressure changes with temp, voltages with engine speed and electrical load. Freaks em out. When customers think there is something wrong, especially under warranty, they have it looked at. That costs Ford $ even when it is 'normal'. For the majority of the driving public a green lamp for "all ok", and a red for "oh poopy" would MORE than suffice, but they'd probably ignore the red anyway. What is your arguement for 'real' guages? Why are they better?

Number 1 is BAD. I don't necessarily want every fender bender reported to the police. example: Hit a tree out on the farm, don't want the sheriff breathing down my back, don't want to report it to the insurance. Number 2 is that Onstar requires you to file a police report FIRST then they will allow you to track it or use any of the other features. MOST five-o that takes 24 hours. Does a lot of good in 24 hours. Your car will be in a thousand parts or in Columbia before they would activate the stuff. As for cell coverage, ANY 911 call HAS to be carried by the nearest tower, regardless of carrier and at no fee. Oh and from what I hear akirby is right... all earth based. Add to that you have to PAY for the service after your 'trial' is over. Also, what about the un-upgradeable systems (most analog I think) that are now inactive and GM can't/won't upgrade.

No. Exhaust and starter are all that have to come out.

What does OnStar do that SYNC and a bluetooth cell can't, other than unlock it of you locked your keys inside?

Just need the cord.

CONS: Since the Cougar is a 2 door Contour/Mistique it has the potential to suffer from all the Conturd/Mistake's ills. There is a LONG list of those, as they are by far the WORST cars ever assembled by FMC. Along with what bbf said, wiring is also a major concern in these cars. Too small for the loads, poor insulation and really poor weather protection. Blower motors, switches and resistors can melt down pretty readily. The automatic trans is not the best thing in the world either. Parts are pricey. As bbf said, alternators are an issue and a real C.S. to replace. PROS: Engine itself is pretty reliable. Get a stick and you won't have to worry about the trans. They are mildly fun to drive, easy on the eyes and usually pretty cheap to buy, used. Since they share almost all powertrain components with the Contour/Mistique, there are a LOT of serviceable parts in the boneyards. The interiors seem to hold together really well. They DO have better overall reliability than their 4 door counterparts. With all these cars there is a Love/Hate realtionship. Those that love em, love em. Those that don't absolutely HATE them. There seems to be no in between.

I am not trying to be a richard cranium but you DO know that the referenced car is 12 years old, right? The original factory warranty was 3years/36k miles. The ONP extended that to 7 years/unlimited miles from your original warranty start date. When should something cease to be the manufacturer's responsibility? Since you are in all reality not going to get help from Ford on this, You have several options. As for the manifold, if you are paying up to $1500 for a replacement, you are getting hosed, and HARD. Around $400 to 450 will buy a factoy manifold, gaskets and coolant. Labor should be around 4.0-4.5 hours. The MOST it should cost you is about $850 total if you have someone do it for you. FWIW, a few simple hand tools (8mm, 10mm, 13mm sockets, a couple extensions, a small prybar, a pair of pliers, an 1-1/16th inch wrench and a pan to catch the coolant) and you could change it yourself. It is not hard at all, just keep the coolant out of the spark plug holes. Visit TCCOA.com and ask the guys if they have a used one layin round. Heck, you buy them the refreshments, and one of them is likely to help you do it. Putting the late model 2V "PI" manifold on in place of the stocker is common over there so there are usually a bunch of good used ones on there... Also, Dorman makes a replacement at a much cheaper cost.

the seperator should have about a pint/pint and a half of fuel in it at all times. If it is dry you are hosed, you have already destroyed your injectors. If you are getting a pint or more of WATER you have other problems than a seperator issue.

you can bypass it but it will cause engine oil temperature to rise, and in Econo-swine vans there is jack for airflow. So, unless you either damged the oil cooler or REALLY REALLY don't want to put it on, I would do my best to put it back to stock form.

IF you had a front bench, where are you going to put the airbag for the center passsenger? Bench seats are only good for one thing: and usually that is done in the back seat.

If this is a 4X4, you can use the available OEM two inch spacers instead of the factory installed 4 inchers in the rear. (you'll need shocks and shorter u bolts too) This was a fairly common issue with the earler s-duties, so much so I think that there was a TSB or SSM about it.

THe basic problem with the super duty is all the coolers and the lack of open area in the engine bay to vent. THere is a HUGE fan and large 2 piece shroud that not only bolts to the rad but a finned one that is bolted to the block to help direct air that has to be there to efficiently flow air over the coolers. 2 egr coolers, engine radiator, intercooler, ac condensor, trans cooler, p/s cooler, and fuel cooler all throwing out heat. Not to mention that the pre-turbo exhaust piping (the hottest area on the engine save the turbo) has increased exponentally. The new engine just doesn't have enough real estate under the hood (part of the reason that the cab has to be removed to do any major work on it). Ford could have made significant re-designs to the firewall to aid heat loss, but it would be much cheaper to just poke holes in the fenders, allowing the heat out. Also at speed, the vents will work on a venturi effect and pull even more air out. Jd's right on the money: this isn't some old 6.9 or IDI 7.3l. lots more technology lots more heat all in the name of emissions, which funnily enough reduces fuel economy. I suppose in a perfect world the engine might survive without the vents, but I doubt it would on a hot summer day in traffic, towing 19k. Also, look at it from a passenger comfort perspective.. less heat underhood is less heat through the firewall on a hot summer day.

meelaan, I respectfully disagree. THey are necessary on the 6.4l. They are a part of the design, they can't get enough heat out of the engine bay without them. The gassers don't need em. The diesel has several large coolers that would not be able to dissapate enough heat otherwise.

Didn't mean to hijack the thread, but there seemed to be some real bad missinformation that needed set straight.

The Ford weighs a lot more, its powertrain calibration is a lot tamer. Buy a tuner.

The v-10 will MORE than fill your needs. There isn't that much power defecit either, as some would have you believe. I would probably opt for 3.73 or 3.55 gear, as the 4.10 is just way too deep. Take it easy on em and they can get ok mileage. Just remember you are pushing a vehicle with the aerodymanics of a brick thru the air.

Torque convertors are different, as are the number of clutches in certain packs. I think the gearing is the same for either though. Torqshift is a 6 speed, but only 5 speeds are used at any given time, with 4th being only used in cold operation.

Even with MSOF, you have electronic control of front end engagement since 1997 in the f-150. The hublocks on the 04 and newer f-150s and 03 and newer Expeditions are held in a disengaged position by vaccuum till the PCM toggles the vac control solenoid, allowing vaccuum to dump,engaging the front hublocks. TO disengage, the vaccum is reapplied and the hubs unlock. The PCM watches for the 4x4 switch on the t-case to trigger the solenoid. The front ends on the 1997-2003 f150s and pre 2003 Expedition are still electronically controlled with MSOF too. There is a shift lever in the front end which is engaged and disengaged by a vaccuum actuator attached to the side of the axle. This actuator is controlled by 2 solenoids that are controlled by the GEM. This doesn't actually disengage the hubs like the newer trucks, just stops the front driveshaft from spinning. Just like late model the GEM looks for a signal from the switch on the side of the t-case. SO in both cases with the F-150 there is still an element of electronic control and in both cases you COULD have the t-case engaged and not have the front end locked in. All other MSOF's are truly non electronically controlled. (all Stupid Duty and pre-97 f-150.) ESOF's vary a lot. There is the older system which uses mechanical automatic hubs which engage when torqued in the direction of travel (absolute junk). There are PVH (Pulse Vaccuum Hublock) which are used on the 99 ranger and 99 and newer S-Duty. There are the Explorers and 2000 and newer rangers which use NO front end controls at all, just the t-case shifting. Escapes which use Electronic clutches in the rear end and on and on. True AWD's like AWD Explorer and Mountaineer use viscous clutches in the non-selectable t-case. All other AWD, both full time and selectable (except back in the old days, 79 and such) use electronic clutches similar to an A/C cluch to engage 4x4 op, reguardless of front end control type. Anyhow, any of the late model electronic controlled front end systems are superior to the older mechanically engaged automatics found on the 96 and older trucks. Also the late model 150s are probably best because, if there is a loss of vaccuum the hubs engage, and threre is only one solenoid to operate. The 97 to 03's had to have vaccuum to engage and vaccuum to disengage and both solenoids working correctly. (not to mention that the fork ahd to be intact in the front end)