Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


YT90SC last won the day on September 6 2019

YT90SC had the most liked content!


About YT90SC

  • Rank

Recent Profile Visitors

1,873 profile views
  1. You need to have the oil pressure checked HOT idle. I mean REALLY hot. It must be a minimum 15 psi, HOT, in gear. The 5.4 is oil pressure HUNGRY. Or, more specifically, the VCT's phasers are. The early 3 valves came with VCT solenoids that allowed the phaser to work down to a minimum pressure (hot idle) of 20 psi. There is a revised solenoid (you will need 2) and PCM reprogram that allows it down to 15 psi. ALL aftermarket solenoids I have seen are the early design and will not control the phaser at 15 psi. IF it is below 15 PSI, it will require surgery. The next step is to remove the valve covers and check the cam caps. Some marking and scoring is normal, especially for your mileage. If the caps are ok, get a Melling MH360HV oil pump, it provides 20% more flow and an overall better design. Yours *will* be worn, given the mileage and the added flow will help maintain that hot idle pressure. The gaskets on the chain tensioners always fail and help bleed precious pressure so replace them and any guides that are broken when the timing cover is off. IF the cam caps are scored badly you will need a reman engine. Don't even bother with used, you will just buy someone else's headache.
  2. Because gasoline evaporates at the same rate in bikes as it does in cars- maybe faster due to the tank being in the sun all the time. Evaporative emissions are a HUGE problem for anything that burns gasoline. Add to that, bikes have VERY dirty tailpipes even when carbs are tuned right. Pass a bike, follow a bike... you can smell them even the open air. I believe Mythbusters even did a show on this.
  3. YT90SC

    Fluctuating throttle

    WIthout a more capable scan tool, a cheap and easy thing to try: Buy a bottle of "shudder fixx" trans additive and put it in the trans. Comes in a red 2 oz bottle. Have been seeing a rash of PCM's "chasing" converter lockup because either the solenoid is hanging, the valve body is worn or the converter clutch itself is damaged. IF the additive improves or even eliminates the issue, you know it is trans related. *This is not a permanent fix* although it might last a while.
  4. YT90SC

    7.3 teardown

    The best fun: Buy $500 junkyard LS. Apply NO2 until you can see daylight through block. Repeat.
  5. YT90SC

    2019 fusion 2.0

    It is an evaporative emissions code. "Evap system switching valve performance/stuck open". While it sounds like it would be a slam dunk to replace the valve, there are other component failures in the system that can trigger that code. You need to have it diagnosed.
  6. There seem to be a huge amount of former ambulance Econoswine running around my area with flat beds. I imagine this one has had the frame shortened.
  7. What year car? Assuming it is a Crown Vic? P1300 is a code I am unfamiliar with. Any other symptoms than the code?
  8. You can't find a fuse because there is none. The throttle is controlled by the PCM and the switches are direct inputs to it. There are a lot of things that can keep it from working. Any malfunction lamps on?
  9. YT90SC

    Coolant sensor install

    You are potentially creating a lot more problems than you are solving. Loss of cooling system pressure WILL result in overheating and coolant loss due to boil off. You MUST maintain pressure. Unless you can find a sensor that will not vent pressure, you just cannot use it. The degas bottle will not hold a threaded sensor unless you use a backup nut on the inside, then it is questionable because the they are just not that robust. They often fail on their own, without holes poked in them. The coolant is almost never lost all at once, and in that VERY rare instance, it would be too late anyway, as that kind of failure is a pump bearing failure, not seals. Pump bearing failure means the timing chain will jump and pistons will meet valves. However "all of a sudden" usually isn't, rather it is ignoring the signs as they come. TYPICAL pump failure starts as a *gradual* loss of coolant in the bottle. Then "mystery" smell of antifreeze when warm. The pump weep hole will hold quite a bit before you see it, but it WILL smell. As it progresses, there will be streaking and leaks at the weep hole behind the alternator as the coolant loss is higher than the weep hole's capacity. There may be intermix of coolant (milky) in the oil at any point. Letting it go further will result in pump bearing failure. Again, the true problem is that most of these glaring signs are typically ignored until it is too late. The majority of engine failures are due to coolant in the oil being ignored. Coolant does not lubricate. Get enough in the oil and your lube is gone. Lose lube, lose bearings. On a bright note, if there is intermix and the engine is running and NOT knocking, we have had pretty good luck installing a pump, dropping the pan and cleaning out, then changing the oil, getting it HOT, and changing the oil/filter. Repeat HOT oil changes until the milk is totally gone, typically 2 to 3 times. Not a guarantee, but we have several with high miles after repair still running around with no issues.
  10. YT90SC

    1990 F150 fuel cross flow

    I forgot to tag you. There you go, see above .
  11. YT90SC

    1990 F150 fuel cross flow

    I can't remember if that has a fuel tank selector on the frame rail or not. IF it has a block with 6 lines on it on the frame rail, it has a selector and the selector has failed. Pretty simple. IF it doesn't have a selector valve, you need to diagnose the problem. The pumps have a check valve built into the pressure side and a valve that opens on the return when the pump runs. Either could have failed, in either tank, OR the regulator. You must check fuel pressure at the rail. Should be 35-40, key on, engine off. -IF it is above 40-45 PSI, the regulator has failed and may be the whole issue. Replace the regulator and recheck. -IF it falls off, make sure there isn't fuel in the vacuum line to the regulator. IF there is fuel in the line, the regulator still needs replaced and you will have to start over. -IF there isn't fuel in the vacuum line and it falls off, install the check valves in the recall parts list and start over. -IF the fuel pressure If it is normal and retains stable pressure for a minute, the issue lies in the return side. You will need to plumb a fuel pressure gage into the return line and see what it reads. If it is high (above 10 psi, IIRC), the REAR pump's return valve has failed. IF it is lower than that, the FRONT pump's return valve has failed. There is the possibility that both pump's return valves have failed, so you will need to recheck return line pressure once you replace the failed single pump.
  12. YT90SC

    EcoBlue diesel in the US

    They don't sell and are harder to get through emissions certification. Overall operating costs are generally higher with modern diesel. Ecoboost hammers it in every category except MPG. So... why have it at all?
  13. YT90SC

    2018 Ford Explorer not Starting!

    I forget you are below the Mason-Dixon. We do batteries under warranty, but not like you see down there. I'd venture to say 5 to 7 year life is not uncommon up here. Its also not uncommon to see 10 year old batteries. My concern is that without a smoking gun, it might be back on the hook in a month, like this time. Granted, two deep cycles like this and it is probably boned either way.
  14. YT90SC

    2018 Ford Explorer not Starting!

    While I understand your frustration, people already in the queue get priority unless they are travellers. That is the fairest way to schedule. There is a nationwide shortage of qualified technicians in the automotive industry in general, and it is far worse in the dealer world. So a small dealer in a 'remote' area has an even bigger issue getting and retaining quality people. 1.5 days out is a actually a pretty reasonable time, we often get a week or more out, depending on the time of the year and type of repair. They would love to have "more staff" so they make more money. But that is often times simply impossible. It may not be the battery. There are several areas that can cause *intermittent* parasitic draws that will run a battery down. Rear view camera, park detect switch, water intrusion into several connectors, aftermarket equipment installed..there are a whole host of things that can be the culprit. Intermittent draws can be terribly difficult to diagnose as the draw has to occur long enough to figure out where it is. I gotta disagree, Akirby, Ford ties the hands of the dealership in regards to batteries as they have to fail and generate an ACES code and DTC on the tester. If it passes, it passes. Ford *will not* pay for a warranty battery without those. I've also seen a battery pass, then fail literally 20 minutes later. You might be able to get the manager to get you a battery anyway, but again, it may not be the battery. If you are fed up with your current dealer, jump start it and take it to another.
  15. History has proven time and again, Ford working with Getrag NEVER ends up going well.