khyros

I just installed a Curt receiver on my 2013 Escape this past weekend. I didn't bother with a wiring harness since it is for a bike rack (I got tired of always taking the front tires off and putting them on the roof). I specifically bought the Curt receiver since you don't see the cross bar at all, just the receiver. This did mean though that there was some additional work as I had to drop the muffler to install it. It wasn't particularly hard, it took me and the wife about an hour and a half to install it, but probably 30min of that was looking around for the right tools. From the best of recollection, it was basically: 1) Lift the Escape to provide additional clearance - though I'm not entirely sure that was necessary looking back at it. 10min 2) 2 bolts on both sides drops the exhaust hanger mount. The instructions tell you to remove the pin from the mount, but I didn't bother, which may have made it a bit harder to navigate the hitch into position. 5min 3) Cut off some of the heat shielding. I spent 10min effing around with trying to get the nut off of the driver side that had basically rusted through before just cutting it all in place. 20min total, but should have been 10min if I just went straight for the cutting. 4) Grind the hole in the frame slightly. I don't have a grinder and wasn't expecting this. I spent awhile trying to figure out what I was going to do before I finally settled on just using my Dremel as an adhoc grinder. With the right tools this shouldn't be more than 5-10min, but for me was probably more like 30min. 5) Fish 3 bolts through on either side. 5 min 6) Get the hitch into place. We struggled with this quite a bit. You have to slide it in from the passenger side on top of the muffler, which is fine until you get to the driver side "frame rail" (for a lack of a better term). The hitch mounts to the bottom and the outside of it, so you have to drop it ~6 inches from where it naturally wants to be. This requires a lot of finagling with the muffler and the hitch in order to get it into place. But otherwise it's pretty simple. It took us probably about 20min to figure out how to get it into place. 7) Secure the 6 bolts for the hitch 5min 8) Reinstall the exhaust hanger with new longer bolts 5min 9) Ensure everything looks good 2min 10) Torque everything 5min The sensor is still working, but really only in one specific spot. I have to kick right AT the sensor on the bumper. But hey - I have a target now!

The LKS has been around since the MY13 Fusion/MKZ, so it's not really a "new" technology. Keep in mind that you can change not only the type, but also the sensitivity. At the end of the day though, I agree - just keep it off. Adaptive cruise is the best thing in the world though!

My wife's '16 Focus has the same problem. I'm wondering if the Sync Gen 3 isn't compatible with that feature?

Do you have a panoramic moon roof? Apparently the early 2013's have a TSB for key off battery load due to the motors on it not turning off.

I had this happen to me on an extended vacation. I didn't notice that it was at 2000 miles though, I guess that means I drove a bit more than I thought I did... I was thinking that I put about 2600 miles on the trip, but the trip odometer showed 1100, so I thought that it reset around 1500 or so. Note, the rest of the trip doesn't roll. Your MPG and Engine Timer (which isn't really an engine timer since it goes up when the vehicle is in accessory mode) don't reset.

I'm well aware that it's the dynamic loads that are the more important factor. And thus the fact that there's a very small "published" capacity of 45lbs. Sadly, the lawyers have made this country a place where if the company doesn't specifically tell you not to do it, it's their fault that you didn't use common sense when you broke it. Obviously while driving with any high CG load, you need to reduce speeds through all turns as the vehicle is much more likely to roll. That's not a concern to me though because that's something I can control and manage and if I roll it because I took a turn too sharp/quick, that's my own fault. However, if the racks bend/buckle/warp under the load, either static or dynamic, then I have a problem because that's a design limitation that I'm exceeding, and there's nothing I can do about that. So, once again, the vehicle itself can support 300lbs static, plus the dynamic loads applied to having 2 12' kayaks up top vertically stacked. But as a driver, you have to be aware and prepared to drive the vehicle differently (including slowing down for winds, even if you're just going straight) since it will respond differently, and all of the electronic crutches such as ESC are probably not designed to handle a CG this high, so you probably want to make sure you don't activate any of them. P.S. - The pana roof was great for keeping an eye on everything to make sure everything was behaving properly.

So awhile back there was a topic regarding the 2013 roof rack capacity, seeing as the owners manual states it at 45lbs w/ the pana roof and 100lbs w/o the roof. Which was really dissappointing. I decided to completely ignore that and put what I wanted up there anyways because this is an "SUV" and it should be able to support my sporting needs. I've previously had 2 sets of 6 ski racks, loading with 10 pairs of racing skis (approx 25lbs each), putting about ~250-300lbs on the roof without an issue. But that really doesn't look that impressive since everything is close to the roof and doesn't really put a wind load on the vehicle. But this past week, I finally picked up my kayaks (2 of them) and took them along with my 2 bikes (well, one set for me one for the lady) on a 2000 mile adventure. The boats weigh in at an advertised 71lbs dry, and the bikes are just under 30lbs each, along with about a 20lbs rack for all of that, and then the bow/stern straps put an additional vertical load on the roof rack, so once again figure close to 300lbs static load. I know I was originally a bit concerned about doing this since I really hadn't seen or heard of anyone else loading their escape up like this, but it made the trip just fine. Heck when ratcheting down the back straps, the Thule cross bar was the only thing that budged at all. And as for the dynamic loads go, I drove through some 45mph twisty turny roads that had to be taken quite a bit slower due to the turns, but it was fine on the highway up to 73mph (didn't bother going faster, I'm sure it could handle it though). There were a few times where it got quite windy and I had to slow down to ~60, but I'm pretty sure that's more of the fact that there was a giant flat piece of plastic on the top of my roof than anything else. For those of you who care, I got about 21mpg going 60mph and 17mpg going 73mph... I normally get ~25mpg going 73.

Unlikely. The Edge's cabin filter is in the same location. However since it's a larger vehicle, there's more space there. Consequently, you don't have to remove the BCM to get to it. It's a 5 minute procedure on the Edge to change it in the same location. The Escape just has too much crammed into it

Congrats. I'm interested to hear about your experience with the hands free + trailer hitch. Does it work well? That's the one option I wanted on mine, but I didn't want it enough to abandon the hands free liftgate. Had I realized that a trans oil cooler was included in the trailer tow, I might have been more willing to forgo the hands free... At some point I might install an aftermarket hitch, but I still dont' have the trans cooler. Obviously the factory trailer tow package w/ hands free is the optimal solution. Assuming it works well. So once again, does it work well?

I have my keyfob, pen, flash drive, and chapstick in my pocket. I think it's either the flash drive or chapstick that pushes the button, typically as I stand up / sit down. I'm wondering if I actually put the fob on a key chain with other keys on it if the other keys would "protect" the buttons from getting pushed.

How'd you open it up? I absolutely hate this keyfob design. All too often I hit the panic button just because. And I used to work about 30 feet from the parking lot, so at least once or twice a week I'd do it. I've even come out at the end of the day to notice my liftgate was opened. Damn this stupid keyfob.

I was pointing out that you listed the wrong plants. The only one that you said properly was the Escape's Louisville plant. The 1.6L engine, like every engine, uses coolant to keep the block and head temperatures at a reasonable operating condition. Combustion temps are in the thousands of degrees, but your engine block wants to stay under 500F (normal operating range is ~250-300 for the block/heads) to keep from warping (and then having even more leaking issues). So, the water pump circulates coolant through the block and the head (via water jackets that are molded into the block/head), where the metal heats up the coolant. It then goes to the radiator, which cools the coolant off from forced convection via the ambient air (either because you're driving, or your fan is on forcing air through the radiator). The fusion/mkz have different engine offerings. Fusion = 2.5L 1.5L ecoboost (and technically 1.6L ecoboost for manual), 2.0L ecoboost, hybrid, plug in hybrid. MKZ = 2.0L ecoboost, 3.7L TiVCT, hybrid. MKZ doesn't have the base 2.5L or 1.5L Ecoboost. I would expect the MKC to carry the 2.3L in leiu of the 3.7L... both put out about the same power (the 2.3L is rumored to put out more than the 3.7L in the mustang). And the 2.5L and 1.5L on the Escape should stay there as entry level options, but not be available on the luxury MKC... Just like the Fusion/MKZ. Here's to hoping Lincoln will at some point call these cars real names instead of confusing letters. I can keep them straight (though no one else in my family can)... but whenever I say MKC/MKZ, it's hard to hear the difference between the two.

My speaker grille rattle went away for a day when they changed the part. But is now back and worse than ever. And I have developed the rear shock noise. I'm wondering if it's worth bothering since it seems to be related to the cold... My old Jeep used to make a similar noise in the cold and Jeep wouldn't bother it because it was "operating normally".

I know I personally would really like it to work when the vehicle is unlocked. Often my girlfriend and I will be loading/unloading the car together, both from the back seat and the trunk. And it's annoying when the tailgate won't hands free open when the vehicle is unlocked and the key is right there 3 feet away at the back seat door. Also, I wish if I was at the trunk with the key, and she went to go get in the vehicle, that it would unlock for her. But since I have the key, and I'm by the trunk, and she's by the door, it won't unlock for her. Little things, but it would be nice if it responded more like "if the key is sensed to be in the vicinity of the vehicle, the doors will lock/unlock and the tailgate will hands free"

Michigan Assembly builds the Focus... The Fiesta is built in Cuiatilan Mexico. Only NA vehicles with the 1.6L Ecoboost are the Escape, Fusion, and Fiesta ST.

My speaker grille was loose too. They replaced the part and the new one doesn't slide left to right, but apply a light pressure to the top, and it separates from the plastic surround. I do not know if this is what's causing the squeak or if it is just a coincidence. It bugs me that my new dealership has "found and resolved" this issue twice.

Well, as you mentioned, the order guide stated late availability 2014. I would think that would indicate the 180 day window. So seeing as the 2014's started to become available around august, I would suspect February would be a decent guess on when the TT+hands free becomes available. Being that you're placing an order, I would think you should be able to go talk with your dealership sometime in January to place said order.

Yeah, I brought my Escape in for multiple issues with TSB numbers and I know there are several things that dealership didn't fix that they said they did. I hope they didn't bill Ford for parts/labor when they didn't do the job. I swear some of these people just think the average customer has to be the stupidest person in the world. I wonder how a convo with their service manager goes.... SA: Hey boss, this guy just dropped off his 35k brand new Escape. He did his research and came up with TSBs to address his DTE, exhaust pop, and noise over speed bumps... what should we do?" SM: Herm... well, lets go ahead and provide him with a MFT update and then give him back his vehicle. We don't want to inconvience him by having it in service for more than a few days." SA: But his MFT is up to date already, and updating MFT only takes an hour, why would we keep it for multiple days if that's all we're going to do? SM: Well, if we turned around and called him right now, he'd be suspecious that we didn't fix his issues. But if we keep it in the shop, he'll be happy that all his things are fixed and we'll be happy we didn't do jack. SA: That does make sense. Okay. Mind if I take his car out to dinner? I got a hot date I want to impress! SM: Yeah sure, just run it through the automatic brush car washer when you're done. Every customer appreciates a cheap car wash that scratches the dirt so hard it leaves marks! SA: Good plan. Peace out.

So they ended up having to replace the FCIM and now everything is working properly.

Herm... I do have the latest MFT, but I could try doing a master reset and see if that does anything... I don't have high hopes for that since its not actually F'd up on the screen.

I hear ya on the DIC. The Fusion's dual colorful screens as so much nicer than the Escape's. To be honest, I don't really care about the left one that much - I'd rather have a real tach than a digital tach. But the right one is great. Mainly for the fact that I can have my music shown there, can quickly control my music or temp from there (in the case where I'm keeping the map up on the big screen) or just keep the next turn info on it when I'm on a long trip and just want the easy to see reminder. Not a big fan of the touch sensitive buttons on the center stack though. I really like the fact that the Escape has real buttons. Though the extra storage space is tempting.... But anyways, congrats on your new purchase!

So, in addition to a new squeak from my radio head unit, it's decided that the actual buttons aren't going to respond properly. After much trial and error, I've discovered that it does what the previous button press was. For example, I get in the vehicle and press tune +. Since this was the first button on the radio I pressed, nothing happens. I then press seek +. It then responds to the tune + that I previously pressed. 10 minutes later, I press seek - and it responds to the previous seek+. I decide to turn the radio off, so I press power. It then seeks -. I get frustrated and hit power again, and it responds to the first power and turns off. Has anyone else had an issue like this? The touch screen and driver controls still work (well, at least as well as they always have... the steering wheel controls don't always respond in general, especially the seek+) just fine.

I would not recommend ripping out the headliner. As someone who's had to go through putting in a new headliner - it's never going to be right. It took my dealership 4 tries to get one in there that was acceptable.

Yup. Just confirming what YT90SC said. It is cable driven. The MKZ is completely different than the Ford line up.

Yeah, I have the same thing. When it was new, almost every idle was rough, but recently I've had a few idles where I didn't notice the engine was on, and the typical idle is marginal instead of complete crap. Who knows, maybe by the time I hit 20k the idle will be real smooth One can hope!