NH_Bulldog

That looks like an aftermarket hack job, what is that contraption mounted on the roof?

I know about the 6.8 gas “Son of Godzilla”, and the 6.7 diesels. But the OP stated 6.7 gasser in his first post (which I quoted to memorialize it) and then he went back and edited the post to change what he wrote from 6.7 gasser to 6.8 gasser

Never heard of a 6.7 gasser? Anyway, Some vehicles have an issue with slip-bump, which is the driveshaft not having proper lube in the splines where it fits into the transmission.

I have never seen a Super Duty with the Easy Fuel capless filler, and I am not sure if it can be added. Part of the reason is that the Super Duty line can come through as a striped chassis (no bed) and the capless filler port needs to be protected from the weather and has a rubber seal around the fuel door. It might be able to be added with enough time, money and modifications, but I haven’t seen it (yet).

The hard roll is inside the bed rails and takes up 6” or more of bed space with no give. The soft roll is above the rails and can be squished if necessary, but really has no impact on bed length. I previously had a hard tri-fold that I could just disconnect and remove, but that left the bed open on trips once the cargo was taken out. I currently have a Truxedo TruXport and does everything I want and need

I would suspect a wheel bearing, or If you have a 4x4, maybe a u-joint or a bent steering knuckle. If they didn’t do an alignment with the new tires, you need to watch tire wear.

Keep in mind that auto hold is different from hill assist. I hated auto hold on my other truck and turned it off after the first use.

I just experienced this for the first time the other day. It started working again after about an hour and about 50 lock/unlock cycles, pushing the tab down, working the inside door handle, pushing the button back down, over and over. Then tried the power unlock and it worked okay again. Hopefully it doesn’t come back! I had to apologize to my wife because she was getting in to drive and I couldn’t open the passenger door and I thought she was playing with me…….ooooops

I always use full synthetic Mobil 1 with a Wix XP filter. About half my miles are towing campers, first a bumper pull 28’ and now a 36’ 5th wheel. The 7.3L with 10 speed transmission is a great combo

I am pushing 40k now and use the truck like it was intended. No issues whatsoever. Very strong and reliable engine.

Have you ever replaced the spark plug coils (coil-on-plugs)? If even one is bad it will throw all kinds of odd codes. When they go bad, they can’t produce the power needed for harder acceleration, but they will produce enough for slow and gentle acceleration. If you have never replaced them, it is past due and should be done regardless.

E-brake is set, yes?

I have had trailer disconnected dash warnings a few times. I used spray cleaner and it has been fine since.

I agree, the truck is not sensing the right amount of resistance. A similar issue (on a different scale) can happen when LED lights are used to replace incandescent lights. The computer is programmed to sense the load and resistance of one thing, but when when changed, you need to “trick” it to think it is sensing what it expects. In both cases, a resistance module needs to be added.

You might try modifying the settings in Forscan so the computer “recognizes” the lights.